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Published: August 2nd 2009
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"Lake Tahoe is one of the few places on earth where people feel an emotional response just by looking at it. Yosemite Valley, the giant sequoias, the Grand Canyon, a perfect sunset on the Pacific Ocean ... these are a few other sights that occasionally can evoke the same response. But Tahoe often seems to strike the deepest chord."
- Tom Stienstra, a guide to MOON Tahoe Camping & Hiking
We came across this passage en route to Tahoe, driving Hwy 5 from Crater Lake. What we found startling in it was that not only did it list every destination in our trip, but that we had discovered this ourselves on the Pacific ocean only two days before.
Our tickets and itinerary for this 24-day-ride were bought and planned on June 30 (we left July 12). We've made it up in large part as we've gone along, but when we hit the end of the U.S. in Washington it became clear that we had forged a journey to see the giants of our county--the Utah desert, the most expansive canyon, the largest trees, the tallest waterfall, the most encompassing ocean in the world. And on that quiet winding
Hwy 5 drive circling Oregon's Klamath Falls and the base of Mount Shasta--wonders in their own right--all we could think of was: How many more hours is it till we get there?
The Tahoe leg had to be one of the most brutal drives, and even when we pulled into South Lake Tahoe it did not seem like it was worth the effort. The main strip was bombarded with cheap motels and every kind of tourist trap you can imagine, not to mention the glare of casino flash bulbs on the Nevada side. Our motel room did not brighten spirits either (in summer, only book for the weekdays, weekend rates here are killer). It was dingy, had a bathroom circa 1972 and the as promised fridge and microwave were located in the closet ... with the a/c unit. So when booking, we'd suggest skipping the Big Pines Mountain House.
The following day we drove around the lake, stopping at the Emerald Bay overlook and also at the beaches in northern Tahoe's Sand Harbor. The latter, though beautiful, was pretty filthy. And just about everywhere else was stuffed to the gills with family and newly wed visitors. Did we
mention it rained? We were beginning to think the beach 'rest stop' and Tom Stienstra could bite it.
And then came June 2 where Generalissimo finally rose before JK - a first. Generalissimo would not be thwarted in the last days of vacation, no. We rallied with coffee and donuts and pizza left over from the night before and headed down to Camp Richardson where we rented a kayak for two. Not only did we zip past all manner of watercraft (kids with floaties) but we also accomplished a lifelong dream of J Karankawa's to paddle into Emerald Bay, the prize jewel of Tahoe, a six mile trek ... (it's possible our success stems from breaking the shoreline 500 foot rule ...)
We also discovered the more secluded parts of Baldwin Beach, with its pristine yellow sand and crystal clear water (we tell this secret to only you, diligent readers). Did we mentioned it rained (while in Emerald Bay and on the Beach)? But no matter, June 2 was the holy grail of relaxation.
With a perfect day complete, we headed back to our rooms to read up on bear safety and Yosemite day-hikes.
We will be
out of touch for the next couple of days until the journey ends, but we still have a few posts to add including some top 10 lists and of course our last adventure in bear country where it is suggested to sit in front of the Merced River and cry (we were thinking we might take the shuttle bus and check out some of the waterfalls). And as for Tom Stienstra, there is no doubt this magnificent lake qualifies as one of the greats ...
Jenny Karankawa: "This is the Tahoe I remember."
Generalissimo: "I like using Yelp--things should come with recommendations, especially restaurants ... and doctors."
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Papa'
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Travel Posters
I do believe you all have accumulated some great travel posters (and places/things to avoid).