In the Land of Lincoln

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First, an apology/explanation. It's been a month since we got back home and I am just now getting around to finishing this blog. We got back from the wedding and visits and crashed. Then we had loads of yard work to do. Got it done and our son and grandsons came to visit. They were here for over 10 days and we had FUN. But needless to say, I was not about to sit and write when we had so much going on. Now I am back and will wrap this up and get it posted.

When we left Wisconsin, we decided to take a bit of time to "collect" a couple of more states for our map on our way home. For those not in the know, we have a small vinyl map of the US in the RV. We put on it a map of the state we have camped in. We ONLY put in states we have actually slept in. (We count an overnight stay at a Walmart or at a relative or friend's house as well as a campground.) While we have camped and visited many states, we are only adding the states we camp in with our RV (or possible future RV.) So we decided to make the first stop Iowa, which is the first state we have been in west of the Mississippi.

We camped in Iowa years ago with Josh. Then we had a tent and pickup truck. We went to the Scott County Campground north of Davenport, IA and found a lovely site with full hookup and nice bathhouse. Once in, we decided to go for a short drive and see some sites. The home of Buffalo Bill Cody was only a few miles away and so we headed for that first.

Yes, THE Buffalo Bill actually grew up just north of north of the Quad Cities in Iowa. The homestead has been preserved and has a furnishings from the era as well as a delightful self-guided tour. We marveled at how much that homestead looked like our home in Adams, NY. Well, both were built in the early 1800's, so it's natural. We noticed the hole in the ceiling of the kitchen which allowed heat to rise to the bedroom above; Josh had a similar hole in his floor from the kitchen below. The walls were horse-hair plaster, just like ours. And the rooms were all small, to conserve heat. A very interesting tour. Biggest difference was we upgraded to add insulation, put in more electric plugs, and had triple pane windows installed. I can relate to how cold that home must have been in winter with the winds blowing off the plains.

After leaving the homestead, we drove in to Davenport and then over to Rock Island. I spent a lot of time in Rock Island in the early 80's, attending the Army Management Engineering and Training Activity (AMETA), getting management training for my career with the government. We drove past the Rock Island Arsenal and saw the replica of the original Fort Armstrong overlooking the river. We didn't have time to drive on the arsenal and see the museum there, nor the Civil War cemetery where a number of Confederates are buried. Rock Island was home to a Prisoner of War camp, not as bad as Andersonville in GA, but very tough with a number of deaths attributed to the harsh conditions during the winter and hot, HOT summers.

In downtown Rock Island, I was pleased to see that the run-down hotel I used to stay at is on the National Historical Site list and has been preserved as a senior retirement center. The Fort Armstrong Hotel was an elegant (in it's day) old in-city hotel with suites and a grand staircase. All my peers wanted to stay at the Hilton, or other fancy place. But the ambiance of this place attracted me to a more genteel era and slower life style. (Besides, it was cheaper, had great food, and cable TV, which the fancy new spots didn't.)

Through our the area, we saw bike paths, walking paths, parks and recreation areas. There is a minor league baseball team, horse track, and many good golf courses. We noted in the The Quad Cities has survived floods and seems to be thriving. I always thought it was a nice place to visit and would have been a good place to raise children.

The next day we drove to Springfield, IL and found a great campground just north of the city at the State Fairgrounds. Very clever of the town--the need campsites for the vendors/exhibitors at state fair time and when they have other events in the arena (like horse shows, car races, motorcycle rallies.) So they keep the campground open for visitors and it is very reasonable. We got a full hook-up and they had 3 separate bathhouses with toilets and showers. A walk to the front gate of the fairground and you were on a bus route into the heart of Lincoln country.

The first day in, we visited a Frank Lloyd Wright home that he had remodeled and renovated in Springfield. The Dana-Thomas House (built 1902-04) is an expression of Wright's "Prairie Style. The house reflects the relatively flat landscape of Illinois and a Japanese aesthetic as seen in prints and form. Once in the home, you lose any sense of the city around you and there are multiple levels, balconies, and stairways to traverse. It was a fascinating tour.

Second day was our homage to Lincoln. We went first to the museum which has fantastic multi-media presentations and got an overview of the museum and library, then toured various themed centers, focusing on his early years, his time as President, and the campaign of 1860. If we think the press and comments today are harsh, reading what was written 150 years ago is eye-opening. Having just seen the movie Lincoln a few months ago, and having read Team of Rivals, I am still in awe of the nerve, fortitude and vision of Lincoln. The museum brings all this out. In addition, there was a riveting exhibit on Civil War medicine with explanations and actual medical implements from that time, including wooden legs and crutches.

We next walked through town to the Lincoln home, part of the National Park system, and got tickets for the tour of the home. The Park Service has bought and preserved several blocks around the home and there are no vehicles permitted and the streets are done in a rubberized macadam to be as close to gravel/cobblestone as possible yet not break down. You truly felt you were stepping back in time, much like at Williamsburg, VA. In the home, I was amazed to learn much of the furniture was original. We walked solemnly through, seeing the dining area, the living room, and the bedrooms. I didn't know that the Lincolns had a live-in maid to help Mary with the work and the boys.

We'd had a full day and next day it was homeward bound. When we left the next morning, we followed state and US routes down the center of the state until we finally merged with I-24 and headed through Kentucky and into Tennessee. Some of the roads in KY were in horrible shape, with miles upon miles coned to one lane with NO construction or work at all going on, making for a slow and dangerous drive. We headed through Nashville at rush hour and after that traffic mess, south on I-65 until we broke off for Huntsville.

When we finally got home, we had logged close to 2000 miles and seen a lot...wedding, parent's new home, old friends, life on the Mississippi, and the Land of Lincoln. The cats were grateful to finally be out of the "big noisy rattly box" and get back to their yard and beds. They gave us no trouble for several days. We cleaned out the coach, and got ready for the next big adventure--the arrival of our son, daughter-in-law, and 2 grandsons. Jennifer has an audit in Chattanooga for a week so Josh and the boys will spend the time with us and we'll get to see them and play with them a lot.

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Photos

Buffalo Bill Cody Homestead
The home was originally built by Bill's father for a wealthy gentleman, but when the man's wife died, Cody eventually moved in and lived there.

Kitchen with heat vent in ceiling
Many of the other furnishings were items we are familiar with.

Buffalo
What else would you expect?! There is a small family of buffalo living on the Cody homestead.

Fort Armstrong, IL
This re-creation of the first fort on the Mississippi here is well done and sited very close to the original. It overlooks the river and served as an Army outpost up until the Arsenal was established.

Boyhood Lincoln
Following this path, you saw how Lincoln grew up and what life was like on the frontier in the early 1800's.

Presidential Lincoln
In front of the White House is George McClellan and further to the right, Fredrick Douglass. Through this portal, you learn of the pain suffered by the nation and the first family during the Civil War. There are sounds, sights and often the senses are overwhelmed. Great visit!

Lincoln's Home
The only home he owned, it has been preserved and maintained much as it was in 1855. The NPS has researched extensively to ensure details are correct, down to the color of paint.

Lincoln's desk
It is rumored that Lincoln wrote his acceptance of the nomination at this desk, sitting in a corner of the formal living/reception area. Even the wallpaper is said to be authentic.

Comments

[Dad]

ashamed
and I have been dissatisfied with my desk space How did he ever SIT at that thing?

[jdkinley]

No shame
Look on the bright side....You can downsize from a desktop computer to a laptop. Imagine Lincoln would have had one...or like your kids and grandkids, done it all on a smartphone. I am NOT giving up my desktop!