Day 7: Snap, crackle, pop it's Hubbard Glacier

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Geo: 59.9197, -139.542

Another early start by Captain Boris to have us positioned for the perfect viewing of Hubbard Glacier. We had set the alarm to be ready by the advertised viewing time of 8 am but the Captain had us there a full two hours ahead of schedule.

The bright and cheery voice of Eddie announcing our arrival coincided perfectly with me being ready so I hightailed it to the observation deck to stake out our claim. Mac on the other hand had to roll out of bed and scramble to get organised. I was number three on the observation deck this morning and although cold and breezy it was not the gale of yesterday so I was able to set up on the rails in a perfect spot.

Hubbard Glacier is only accessible on days when weather and ice flows permit. And because we have trailed perfect weather with us for the entire trip, not only were we able to gain access to this tidal glacier, but the mist had lifted giving us perfect views of the endless face of this towering river of ice.

Yesterday was certainly spectacular but today was something else. Hubbard Glacier gives a perfect view up the icy valley and serves as an echo chamber for the calving. We were focussed on "the nose" yesterday, but today, the ice was calving at a number of points so it was a see-sawing, spot-me-if-you-can view. There was action everywhere. The distances and sizes are so deceiving. By the time you hear the thundering splash of ice hitting water, the event is almost over. And because of the shape of the valley, there are thunderous cracks and roars from all directions. It truly sounds like an explosion. Our perspective displays a gentle tumbling, end-over-end of blocks of ice. The roar and the size of the splash and wave as it tumbles into the bay (and it is a mighty roar) are testaments to the size of the fall.

It is hard to comprehend, and the photographs certainly don't capture the enormity of Hubbard. This tidal glacier has a terminal face of 10 kms that empties into Disenchantment Bay. The towers that we see stretch up to 150 metres above the waterline and descend another 100 metres below the sea. With the sun shining and the light changing they are a bright blue. No surface is smooth. Every nook and cranny seems to have a jagged, knife like edge. It looks anything but hospitable and the constant snap, crackle and pop combined with the echoing boom of the ice fields seem to warn you away.

Some of the blocks that fall can be a staggering "bus size." We didn't see it today, but there are times when the equivalent of a 10 storey building cleaves off sending a tsunami like wave under the ship.

Maybe next time....because we are back again next week on the return leg of the cruise.

We had a meagre three hours in this spot with the Captain constantly changing the angle of the view. We again found ourselves running up and down stairs and across the decks to be in line with the next fall. Certainly, your balcony has the advantage of giving you both a clear view and room to move. The Observation Decks are a constant swarm of people looking for a view just like you and sometimes those under 6 foot miss out on seeing the action. Position is everything!

This was the day of unintentional selfies. Mac had his fingers over the lens on his phone and is responsible for some creative interpretations of the glacier. I was a complete #fail because I had neglected to charge the camera and had accidentally set the phone camera lens to selfie mode and got nearly one hundred closeup shots of the wrinkles around my eyes and the lines in the palm of my hand. Not our best photo day.

The afternoon's excitement was a medical emergency evacuation by the U.S. Coast Guard helicopter. Of course, we don't have details but the Captain advised that a guest was being airlifted. The helicopter couldn't land on the ship so we could see the transfer of personnel and stretcher. It took about 90 minutes to complete the manoeuvre and we can only imagine how traumatic all this must be for the guests involved. Touch wood, it's not us next......actually, ever!

The finale at The Stardust was a variety show but it was overshadowed by the staff talent show in the afternoon. Each of the departments was represented by a performer. It was a terrific show featuring some amazing voices, a beautiful national dance and topped of with an hilarious "Fountain" routine by the entertainment crew.

The last of the dining specialty restaurants for us was the Italian Restaurant, La Cacina. This was the only restaurant where we have had trouble getting a booking and the only slot left was at 9.30 pm. This was supposed to be an advantage because we could build up our appetite. Mac had a soup AND an entire pizza for his starters. I am impressed with the stamina of this man! He backed it up with a lobster fettuccine and washed it down with tiramisu and a cocktail. As for me, I tried and failed on each course except the cheesecake desert.

And of corse we are still chasing sunset and Mac was the man behind the lens tonight. It was nearly "tomorrow" when it finally set and to be honest it never seems to be dark. I took another shot at 2.30 am and the sun was already thinking of rising.

And that is Part 1 of the cruise. Tomorrow, the ship turns around and heads back to Vancouver so we get a second chance at each port. We have been given "special" stickers for our key cards so we don't have to go through the checkin process. We are no longer cruise newbies!

Sunday
Temperature: 15C
Pedometer: 6 178
Bear Sightings = 0

Total Bear Sightings = 12

Things @AuntyGail and @Paul forgot to tell us about cruising:

1. By Day 7 eating can be a form of torture.

2. You really miss the simplicity of @AuntyGail's cheese on toast.

3. The most overpriced service at sea is access to the Internet.

4. Living in a stateroom makes you question the need for all the "trappings and stuff" of home.

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