Day 6: Calving at Glacier Bay

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Geo: 58.8217, -136.815

If you have a bucket list and haven't seen a glacier....put it on your list. The blue of Disney's Frozen is what you see and if you "luck out" and get a perfect weather day, the size, majesty and beauty combine for a jaw dropping encounter.

The ship progressed at snail's pace into the bay dodging and weaving a path through icebergs. We were definitely in the National Park area of Glacier Bay and Rangers Dan, Jenny and Zac were on board to give insightful commentary on what we were seeing. This is a limited access area and to protect these pristine waters shipping is strictly controlled with a maximum of two ships per day permitted access - weather, ice and animal breeding conditions permitting.

Glacier Bay is a 25 million acre world heritage site - one of the world's largest protected areas. Just 250 years ago, Glacier Bay was all glacier and no bay. Today, these tidal glaciers flow from the tall coastal mountains to the sea and calve great hunks of blue tinged iceberg jewels into the cold waters. As we moved into the bay area we took a look at Russell Island, the beautiful blue of the Lamplugh Glacier, the Johns Hopkins Inlet and Glacier, the Tarr Inlet, the Grand Pacific Glacier and spent most time in front of the Margerie Glacier.

On the deck today, heading into the bay, the wind howled across the open viewing platforms at gale force as it swept down from the mountain valleys. Eventually it became so dangerous that the security team had to close them down - but not before we watched for 30 minutes as people of all shapes and sizes and all ages fought to stay on deck to get just the right photo. Mac and I had tears streaming down our faces (along with everyone else in the observation lounge) as parents tried to keep children anchored and upright and everyone tried to tame the whipping and flapping and flailing of their clothing.

There was one very tall older lady who had on a longline jacket (like Nicholas Cage in "City of Angels"😉....this was accompanied by generously loose fitting wide legged white trousers, a monster light weight scarf, long black hair and over sized sunglasses. Unfortunately she only had one pair of hands to control this smorgasbord of flying stuff....but my goodness she gave it a good go. She was clapping and slapping, twisting and turning, flicking and smoothing, catching and clutching with such determination. Her dutiful little husband was doing his best to get the "right shot" and how he kept a straight face I'll never know. The American lady sitting next to me just kept repeating "Oh my, oh my" with different levels of intonation, intermingled with snorts and guffaws that just added to the hysteria. It was a shame really that the security officers made those two leave, it was hilarious entertainment.

Once the ship was in position, the wind magically stopped, security opened the deck and it was time to jockey for a good spot.

The water of Glacier Bay was filled with the milky rock flour of the glacier and a perfect line was formed in the water - as if it were a starting line for the captain to slowly turn the ship side on so that we could have a perfect view of the face of Margerie Glacier. And for an hour, we watched from our balcony, transfixed as blocks of ice formed waterfalls that tumbled from the terminus of the glacier and thunderously plummeted the 200 feet into the water below to then bob to the surface to float into the bay. You didn't want to take your eyes away from the 250 foot high wall that stretched in front you. You followed the pops and cracks trying to guess where the next block would break away. We marvelled at nature's own version of the block game Jenga.

We were scanning the glacier to spot the next fall and Mac perfectly predicted that the formation we had christened "the nose" would be the next to go. And on cue as our balcony lined up with "the nose", a small shower began and was then followed by a slow motion tumbling of giant blocks of ice to form a spectacular waterfall of calving glacier. What a great show!

The captain swung the ship to give the starboard balconies their turn and we were running to get new positions on the decks and in the observation lounges. We stayed in Glacier Bay for four hours and still wanted more!

Dinner was a repeat of Modernos for all you can eat meats...and Mac did his best! I was just there for the seafood chowder and gave the meats a miss. Tonight was Chocoholics Night and I was reserving my eating potential for dessert. And yes, there were three specials of the night and despite Modernos not being part of the chocolate lovers night, Rasheed our waiter sent out for all three delights just for us! Delicious, utterly enjoyed and completely consumed with the truly majestic backdrop of Icy Strait and a frolicking humpback whale (not me) that Mac spotted just off the side of the ship.

For those who were ever in doubt, I admit it, I have no sense of direction. It doesn't matter how many times we visit the same place I am perpetually lost. I feel like I am in a constant game of blindman's bluff and someone keeps spinning me around. Without fail, if we have to go up, I am heading down; if it should be forward, I am heading backwards; if we need left, I turn right. To be honest I can't even get the 50-50 bet right on forward or aft. Mac is now playing the "let's
see how far she goes before she realises she is lost!" game. He just stops at a decision point - I keep talking and walking - and suddenly realise I am talking to a stranger and I have to backtrack until I spot him ....invariably, arms folded, head shaking, laughing and enjoying the moment. I am his personal pop up comedy show. Thinking he might have a fat lip again soon...I have procured another apple for him! (Will get pics @Fiona and then we'll see who's laughing!)

Guess I will have to allow him some leeway. After all, today Mac has perfectly orchestrated a calving glacier outside our balcony, a whale alongside the ship at dinner and a perfect sunset. Not bad for a day lost at sea.

Saturday
Temperature: 12C
Pedometer: 5 187
Bear Sightings = s0

Total Bear Sightings = 12

Things @AuntyGail and @Paul forgot to tell us about cruising:

1. Stretch fabric and elasticised waists in pants can only stretch so far.

2. Some people are always lost on a cruise ship.

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