Blogs from Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada, North America - page 31

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St. John’s Geo Center provided us with an outstanding learning experience. The geology of Newfoundland as told by the rocks. The center also houses, a comprehensive Titanic exhibit. It tell the “true” story of greed and arrogance that ultimately caused this disaster. Signa Hill long been used for defense, observation, and communication. The reoccurring pattern of the French and British fighting over lands continues. Unfortunately, we were socked in with fog so no view. One other interesting point, it was here that Marconi received his first trans-Atlantic wireless signal Dec. 12, 1901. July 18, 2006. Cape Spear National Historic Site is the most easterly point of land in North America. The lighthouse here has guided mariners in St. John’s Harbor for over 150 years. During WW II a coastal defense battery was constitructed at the ... read more
Amethyst stone
The True Story of the Titanic
Pile of stones telling the direction


Since it was raining all morning we scrub our AM hike and drive to Bonavista, NL. This National Historic Site includes several buildings dedicated to the fishing industry and the hearty people who survived in this remote coastal area. The cod was bountiful and the work endless. The men’s job was to bring in the fish and then split it. Everyone was involved in cleaning, salting, and drying the fish on flakes (pole stands in the fresh air). Care was taken to remove the liver for “cod liver oil”. The job was labor intensive and never improved with time and technology until the cod was over-fished and the catch steadily declined. These people were a generation behind the “modern” world existing on the barter system. With the introduction of refrigeration, things slowly changed. In 1497, John ... read more
Explorer, John Cabot
Rugged cliffs along the shore at Bonavista
The Dungeon at Bonavista,( double arches).


Today we drove every kilometer of paved road in Labrador, and still had lots of time to eat, sleep and sightsee. One very obvious annoyance are the biting black flies and “Midgies” (tiny flying insect that also like to bite), they are everywhere and just waiting for fresh meat. We have our bug shirts with face/neck screens, and long pants, so off we go to hike the Battery Trail. This trail is not used a lot and it was like bushwhacking, so we cut our hike short and stop at a museum, Labrador Straits Museum. It provided a glimpse of local family life for the past 150 years, not an easy life. Red Bay, our destination, is also where the pavement runs out. Red Bay National Historic Site of Canada tells the story of the Basque ... read more
Saddle Island Trail at Red Bay, before the seagulls.
An old shipwreck, found in 1965 at Red Bay.
Saddle Island, Red Bay, Labrador.


The boat picked us up at 4 PM for a short trip to Quirpon Island/Lighthouse for an overnight. There were eleven travelers with us on the boat, everyone excited about what to expect. This trip was a wedding gift and simply a delightful experience. This charming active lighthouse is located just off the northernmost point of Newfoundland. It has hiking trails, a whale watching room, two living quarters and, of course, a lighthouse. Nothing and no one else is on the island. The terrain is mostly tundra with some hearty greens, but the scenery is spectacular. The sea, the rugged coastline, the whales… add to that mix… sunshine and wispy clouds… and it is glorious. Hope you enjoy the photos. A delicious dinner is served family style, so we had the opportunity to chat with lots ... read more
A nice clear windy day.
Lighthouse on Quirpon Island.
Most folks hang out the laundry to dry.


The winds of Newfoundland are strong. The only other option would be, no wind and biting black flies. I’ll take the wind, thank you. L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site was once a full fledged Norse Village for Vikings serving as a sailing base for explorations throughout the area, about 1000 AD. Hedge-Ingestad, a Norwegian scholar-explorer and Anne Stine Ingstad, an archeologist, came to this area in the 1960’s. Digs uncovered eight complexes of rudimentary houses, workshops with fireplaces and a trove of artifacts all of which verified the Norse presence. A path leads to recreated buildings, overlooking the Bay. Here costumed interpreters re-enact the roles and work of the Norse (Viking) captain, his wife and four crewmen. It was fascinating going into the sod houses seeing artifacts and “Vikings” going about their life of years ... read more
Viking captain and his wife going about their day, making shoes and playing an musical instrument
A view of the Epanes Bay, a crystal clear day, but windy!
The sod houses were super insulated.  I can’t imagine how cold this area is in winter


After a walk on the windy beach we continued driving north on the Viking Trail (the only road) to St. Anthony. St. Anthony was named by Jacques Cartier in 1534. We are now on the Atlantic side of Newfoundland and this area is referred to as “Iceberg Alley”. We spotted two Icebergs, one in St. Anthony and one in Goose Cove. Goose Cove is a tiny isolated natural harbor town and is quite picturesque. I bet winters are nasty We kept seeing stacks of wood on the side of the road. It seems the folks cuts wood for wood burning stoves in the summer and then come on ski-doos to pick up their supplies after the first snow fall. Each stack is marked with a number. Dr. Wilfred Grenfell is sort of a patron saint ... read more
This iceberg was seen from Goose Cove.
The beach where we stayed, at Port aux Choix the Lion’s Club
The beach at Port aux Choix


Our friend from yesterday, Sharon and Cliff, were at the same campground, so we went together to see the Lighthouse and the breccia. Breccia are layers of chunky limestone pieces that contain fossils. Cow’s Head rock preserve is a complete record of deposition from Cambrian to the Ordovician period. It is one of the best opportunities in the world for learning about marine environment of that time. It was an impressive trail, but tricky to locate. There are arches, formed from eroding rock, right on coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Port aux Choix is a town well known for its rich history and thriving fishery. It is a few miles off the main road, the only road the Viking Trail, but is worth the detour. It is a National Historic Site. The first ... read more
Cow’s Head little Lighthouse, Kel climbed up.
Bob walking among the breccia at Cow’s Head
Breccia at Cow’s Head


Breakfast at Earl’s in Rocky Harbor. Bob’s choice was the Newfie toutons (fried bread dough, with pork chips?), fried bologna, homemade bread, and eggs (super glue for the arteries). Western Brook Pond boat trip was a memorable experience. To access the boat, involves a 3km walk along the coastal bogs over gentle terrain and some boardwalks. It was a warm, sunny day as we got to the pier. As our tour boat started we were looking up at glacially cut cliffs of granite, gneiss, and schist towering above us. This pre-Cambrian rock is some of the oldest on the island of Newfoundland. The water is technically, no longer a fjord because in the past 8,000 years it has changed from salt water to fresh water. Wonderful waterfalls and rock formations everywhere you look. Cow’s Head ... read more
The formation of Western Brook Pond
The topo of Western Brook Pond today
The tour boat that took us on a 2 hour trip


This morning it is cool and cloudy but no rain!! So our first stop is Lobster Cove Head Trail. This headland and Berry Hill are large chunks of jumbled rock that forms a mélange. Beds of buff-colored dolomite, shale, and ribbon limestone were folded and faulted as slices of ocean floor slid over them. We got lots of photos. Our next hike is the Coastal Green Point an easy hike of about 3 km. We talked to the ranger and he had seen a black bear and a moose in the area. A fellow hiker informed us yesterday the trail was underwater. This did not deter us. The trail follows an old winter mail road along the coast. I can’t imagine the harsh conditions of winter in this rugged park. The scenic coastline, wetlands, and forest ... read more
Rocks at Lobster Cove Head
Rock up-lifted
Rocks from beneath the ocean


Today’s weather is rain and strong winds, today is also our opportunity to hike Tablelands, so off we go. It is a relatively easy hike, 4km, but the rain and driving wind makes it a bit of a challenge. The mineral makeup of the rocks is not conducive to plant life, so only the very hearty plants make it. The Tablelands is he most important geological feature in the park. The mountainous block is a slice of the rock that once lay beneath the Iapetus Ocean; it is a sample of the Earth’s crust and upper mantle. The trail ends at a waterfall rather abruptly. The Rangers do not encourage climbing the Tablelands. The clouds move in and out quickly covering the top of the Tablelands, making it is easy to get disoriented. Soggy and chilled, ... read more
One soggy Maureen, and the Tableland Trail
Bob taking photos and bringing up the rear.
It was raining but the wind was a killer




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