Blogs from Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada, North America - page 14

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The weather was gloomy all day, fortunately raining only when we were in the bus. The magic continues! On the Transcanada we saw installations for the oil and gas industry. This was a hook for Michael to talk about the growing prosperity of Newfoundland and Labrador, including how proud they are to now be a “have” province. First he credited Joey Smallwood with opening up the province, both to join confederation and to expand opportunities. More recently and now effective, Danny Williams pushed the oil companies into developing the off-shore resources rather than sitting on them as a future asset, a strategy copied from Ralph Klein. Certainly, all of us have admired how well kept are pr... read more
Underground cables
Jelly Bean houses
Hearts Content


Off again at 8:28 – this is a very prompt group! Michael has exclaimed several times that, on this trip, if you are on time you are late! Down the Transcanada for a short way, then down the “Road to the Beaches” to arrive at the tip of the land, and the village of Salvage (Salvaage, as in French). Unfortunately the fish plant closed last year, and, except for a few fishermen, working-aged people have moved away for work. Michael hopes that the sale of houses to those “from away” (mainlanders) will save it, as a tourist destination. The views are classic, especially when the sun came out and the clear blue water turned transparent, reflecting the boat sheds and lobster pots. Walking along the waterfront of this outport was peaceful indeed. The one pub/café has ... read more
St Paul's Anglican Church
Chill air warmed by glow of the wood
Bed and Breakfast

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Gander August 16th 2014

We left under a dark cloudy sky; happily the sun came out by the time we reached the Beothuk Institute Interpretation Centre. The Beothuk are an indigenous people who were made extinct in the late nineteenth century, primarily because of conflicts with the settling Europeans and their diseases. Unusually, the Beothuk preferred to keep away from the Europeans, but they were quick to use materials, particularly iron, left behind by the seasonal fishermen. First I took the path to the excavation site, now dormant, where settlement artifacts give present-day archeologists a good picture of how the Beothuk society worked. The path was well curated, especially the many discrete signs identifying plants and flowers. Boardwalks protected the damp areas in the lush woods. A vigorous stream joined a sheltered cove, which is prob... read more
Iceberg at Crow Head Point
St Peter's Anglican Church
Michael Morton's home

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador August 15th 2014

Leaving Cow Head (a relaxed start at 9:30), we went backwards to stroll on the Shallow Bay Beach – sandy, sheltered, stretching off into the distance. A very short way more on the bus brought to the rocks where the SS Ethie was wrecked in 1919. Despite the bad winter weather, all 92 people were saved and hosted by the locals. The boat was a coastal vessel, “the Greyhound of the day”, in Michael’s words, that is, the only way to travel and send provisions and mail before roads. (Most roads were built after Newfoundland and Labrador joined Canada in 1949 – a narrow 51%-49% decision. Newfoundlanders always say “when Canada joined us”!) Unusually, the wrecked boat was left on the shore to be battered by the sea; thus, its disintegration continues, evidenced by rusting metal ... read more
Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
Crossing Newfoundland
Exploits River

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador August 14th 2014

How relaxing to not move hotels this morning: half an hour extra sleep and no repacking! Breakfast was served in the hotel dining room where two other tour groups were eating; a third group had breakfast in the (pokey) hotel bar. The food was excellent, and our waitress accepted orders for eggs not-scrambled. Cow Head (named for a rock of seal appearance, female seals are called cows) is virtual a “company town”, based on the attraction of bus tours to the two theatres. As we drove out of town, we saw a public library, a general store, a tire store, a post-office, the Black Cove café, a school and one condo complex, as well as a string of houses. As everywhere, all properties are well kept. Within twenty minutes, most of us got off the bus ... read more
Moose
Western Brook Pond
Lava "caulking"


8:45 p.m. I am sitting in the laundromat that closes at 9:00, ardently hoping that at least the washing is done in time. We have two nights here, and if drying has to happen in my room, it would be feasible. In some ways I do have enough clothes to last the rest of the trip, but somehow several things I brought don’t work so well for this trip. This morning I climbed the lighthouse at L’Anse Amour, the second tallest lighthouse in Canada. It is one of four lighthouses that made the Strait of Belle Isle reasonably navigable in the late 19th century. Two families lived in the house attached to the lighthouse and tended it through its working lifetime. The building has been lightly restored, just enough for safety. 132 stairs take you up ... read more
Guide gently delivers history
Arches Provincial Park
Arches Beach


Our morning began with a pleasant walk in Goose Cove. The air was fresh and the temperature moderate. The sky was clear blue with a few streaks of white cloud in the distance. The village was somnolent, except for one man who came out the front door of his house with a large steel bowl, stepped into a pair of rubber boots, walked down the few stairs and around to an outbuilding in the back. Perhaps he was getting some fish, but he stayed in the building until after I disappeared from sight. We walked slowly around the head of land to gaze at the breakers. A few seagulls called and sailed on imperceptible wind currents. We drove back along the highway to St Barbe for the ferry to url=http://... read more
Strait of Belle Isle
Labrador
Minke Whale


I am exhausted from an unexpectedly full day and am recovering by drinking green tea brought from home – not an option in these smaller cities and towns yet. The drive up the coast of the Northern Peninsula held pleasant vistas of slate-covered beaches strew with boulders, interspersed with mixed woods and green green bogs. Occasional very small outports perched on top of the landscape. Periodically we saw stacks of cut firewood, some very large. It was explained to us that for $36, residents could buy a permit for 10 cords of wood. (A cord is four feet wide, four feet high, and eight feet long.) The wood is cut in the winter, after the fishing seasons are over. During the summer it dries, and in the fall the families collect it to supplement oil heating ... read more
GNP Crafts
L'Anse aux Meadows
Nordic walls

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador August 10th 2014

Barely outside Corner Brook, we stopped to look at a rock formation called the Man in the Mountain. Seeing that face in the rock took strong imagination. Oddly, there is a much more discernible face in much the same place, but it is uncelebrated. We took the Transcanada to Deer Lake, which is named for the caribou, as there are no deer in Newfoundland and Labrador. There, a specialist guide, Paul, joined us for our time in Gros Morne Park. We took the smaller “Viking Trail” northwest to Bonne Bay, an extensive bay that dominates the geography south of the Park. We entered Gros Morne Park. Driving north, we were first introduced to the Long Range Mountains, which stretch most of the length of the island; they are part of... read more
 Gros Morne
Trout River
Salt cod


A seemingly slow start to a day of accumulated enjoyments. Under dry but cloudy skies our bus left at 9:00 along the Humber Arm of the Bay of Islands. Driving through Corner Brook(20,000 pop.) let me wonder yet again at how the plain cubic shape of architecture can be interpreted in different societies, seen last in Chile and earlier in India and Greece. Many of the houses are small and plain, with fairly small square windows and sometimes an added porch or step. Virtually all are well maintained. Almost universally they have been improved with fairly recent vinyl siding in what seems to be an original small-board pattern. Occasionally a rectangular version of this style is found, and very occasionally a house has been expanded, usually in a symmetrical style. Cook’s Lookout over the city commemorates ... read more
Marlaines Tidewatcher Cafe
Bottle Cove
Corner Brook Creek




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