Newfoundland & Labrador - To Grand Falls-Windsor, 2014 Friday August 15

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Leaving Cow Head (a relaxed start at 9:30), we went backwards to stroll on the Shallow Bay Beach – sandy, sheltered, stretching off into the distance. A very short way more on the bus brought to the rocks where the SS Ethie was wrecked in 1919. Despite the bad winter weather, all 92 people were saved and hosted by the locals. The boat was a coastal vessel, “the Greyhound of the day”, in Michael’s words, that is, the only way to travel and send provisions and mail before roads. (Most roads were built after Newfoundland and Labrador joined Canada in 1949 – a narrow 51% decision. Newfoundlanders always say “when Canada joined us”!) Unusually, the wrecked boat was left on the shore to be battered by the sea; thus, its disintegration continues, evidenced by rusting metal parts strewn in the rocks off and on shore. Visually a dramatic lesson in how treacherous are rocky shores.

A short drive later we turned off to Lobster Cove Head. Close by the lighthouse, we were treated to a story-telling performance by Bonnie Lou. She thickened her Newfie accent and entertained us with a participatory tale about the family that originally took care of the lighthouse. She targeted audience members to come up and help her by holding the map and photos. She “recreated” the family photo by calling up various people and ordered them about as if they were the kids. Everyone was in stitches! A great way to learn history.

Another short drive brought us to Rocky Harbour for lunch at the Treasure Box – they closed the restaurant to other customers to accommodate us. Amongst more usual fare, they had moose stew and moose burgers, which I had - tasty, similar to a deeply flavoured lean beef. The “Box” was crammed with souvenirs, some more authentic than others. Across the road, however, was a genuine art store owned by a glass artist. The pieces were unusual, arising from Newfoundland life. The bigger pieces were particularly unusual, curved and twisted – not ideal for travellers. I liked the sea glass and the glass harvested from old purposes and redesigned by the artist.

With more purpose we continued our journey to Deer Lake to join the Transcanada Highway. Michael answered our questions about the well-kept, sometimes large houses. Money comes in part from people working in Alberta and Newfoundland oil fields and in part from the fishing industry. The collapse of the cod fishery initially caused a depression, but those fishermen who moved to lobster and crab fishing gradually improved their incomes and now are thriving.

Our coffee break at an undistinguished roadside café near Sheppardville was great for me because I finally received “yes” in answer to my now plaintive “Do you have green tea?” They had four varieties! I enjoyed the first cup so much I bought another cup to drink on the bus. Then more dedicated driving through forests. The central part of Newfoundland is rock covered with endless, medium-sized evergreens and alder in “397 shades of green”, in Michael’s words. Around the many ponds are small plants that take on the look of bright-green grass from the bus.

Near 5:30, about an hour late, we turned into the Salmonid Insitute. Half of us were directed into the theatre for an explanatory video that clearly showed the beneficial results of cleaning up rivers, adding salmon ladders and stocking new rivers to vastly increase the numbers of wild Atlantic salmon. The guide extensively described the many differences between Atlantic salmon and Pacific salmon, and the management of the two fisheries. Primarily, Atlantic salmon live longer and spawn later and several times in their life. Notably, Atlantic salmon are licensed for sport and personal fishing only, not commercial. Outdoors we saw a few salmon using the ladder at this point on the Exploits River – it is near the end of the season.

We were almost inside Grand Falls – Windsor and at our hotel in minutes.

Dinner: baked salmon, baked potato, mixed vegetables and Iceberg Beer.

Map of the trip to date

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Photos

SS Ethie
Ghostly visions of the ship wreck

Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
Distant marker from land and sea

Crossing Newfoundland
Ponds, more ponds, and even more ponds

Exploits River
Salmon ladder essential!

Uniquely NL vinyl siding
Rocky Harbour

Granite covered by trees
...awash in ponds

Comments

[Jane]

Great Story and Pics
Hi Judith, I'm really enjoying your trip through Newfoundland and particularly liked the pics of the wreckage from the SS Ethie. The remnants are like industrial sculptures along the beach. And the house is salmon coloured! So appropriate.