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Published: September 28th 2015
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Exhibit depicting Beothuk people
Beothuk Interpretation Centre, Boyd's Cove NFLD Yet another beautiful morning here in Trinity, although somewhat cooler and windier. We have breakfast at the hotel. The boat tour is a bust, unfortunately, as we two are the only sign-ups and a minimum of four people is needed.
Our goal today is to get to Twillingate, which is on the tip of another pennisula to the west of Bonavista. We drive south to meet the TCH, then head west. We make good time to Gander, where we stop to gas up and visit a tourist information centre. Gander has a Wal-Mart, so we try unsuccessfully for a styrofoam cooler.
From Gander we head more or less due north up the penninsula. The road takes us through Terra Nova Park, and we stop for a pit stop at the interpretation centre. Some excellent exhibits on the geography and wildlife of the area. Did you know there are no skunks or raccoons in Newfoundland? And that there were no moose until they were purposely introduced? Reputedly, there are now more moose than people in the province.
Continung north, we drive by Gambo, home town of Joey Smallwood. As planned, we stop in a small town called Boyd's Cove
to visit the Beothuk Interpretation Centre. You may have heard the sad story of the Beothuk people. They were the aboriginal inhabitants of Newfoundland when the Europeans first arrived. Although there was some peaceful interaction, it was mostly a violent encounter. Through violence, disease and starvation caused by being pushed away from the sea, the Beothuks were exterminated. The last known Beothuk woman, named Shanawdithit, died of tuberculosis in St. John's in 1929.
In Boyd's Cove, archeologists have discovered a complete Beothuk village dating from the period 1650 to 1720. We tour the very impressive museum and watch a movie on the Beothuks and the discovery of the ancient village. We take a long hike through the woods to visit the site of the archeological dig. There is also a "spirit garden," where visitors can deposit handmade trinkets and frankly atone for our past misdeeds. An interesting and extremely worthwhile experience.
Back on the road and on towards Twillingate. We cross from island to island on causeways, where not long ago we would have had to use ferries.
Twillingate is a pretty community, reputedly one of the most picturesque in the province. It stretches along one side
of a large semicircular bay. Pretty as it is, the road through the main part of town is under construction and a real pain to navigate.
We find lodgings at the Anchor Inn, right by the water. It's past time for supper, so we ask at the hotel what's the best local option for food. The answer is the Sansomme & Sons Seafood Restaurant, which is back down the same road we arrived on, near a town called Hillside. We enjoy great seafood pasta in a fantastic setting right out on the water. Yet another spectacular sunset just as we are finishing our meals.
We drive back to Twillingate in the dusk. The pub attached to our hotel has a show on tonight called "How to a Become a Newfoundlander", subtitled "Newfoundland 101”. It's a two-person show filled with good laughs and a surprising amount of information. We learn the meaning of Newfie words like "gaff" (fishing pole), "yaffle" (armful), "dildo" (oar lock), "tickle" (narrow strait) and many others. Then we move on to expressions like "Where you long to?" (where are you from), "Who you long to?" (who's your significant other), "I dies at you" (your jokes
are killing me), "Ow she gettin on b'y?" (how's it going), and so on. The evening ends with a reach-for-the-top style contest between the two sides of the room to answer questions about Newfoundland and Newfounese. And, of course, we finish by singing "I's the b'y" with the memorable line "Fogo, Twillingate, Morton's Harbour / All around the circle."
At the end of the show we attend (but do not partake in) a "screech-in", which involves kissing a cod, quaffing some Screech (Newfoundland rum) and correctly answering the question "Is you a screecher?" The proper response is Deed I is, me ol' cock, and long may your big jib draw!"
Long day and we are happy to get to bed. I'm getting behind on the blog, though.
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