NFLD Day 3

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We awake to a beautiful morning. Forecasted high for today is 27°C and mostly sunny. The locals we talk to are ecstatic, as the entire summer has been unusually cold and rainy. I had a hunch that there would be a weather bounce-back, and it looks like we timed it perfectly.

There are two cruise boats moored outside our window this morning. One is a smaller ship called the Silver Sea and the other a large Holland America ship, the Eurodam. (As seasoned cruisers know, all the Holland America vessels are "dam" ships.)

According to the master plan, this is our final day to wring St. John's dry. After breakfast in our room courtesy of Sobey's, we start off (somewhat later than planned) by visiting the Terry Fox memorial at the extreme north end of the harbour.

Terry dipped his artificial leg in the water at this very spot in 1981 at the beginning of his attempt to run across Canada. I like the memorial a lot. At one end is a statue of Terry taking his first stride, a look of fierce determination on his face. In front of him lies a road with concrete waves on either side symbolizing both the two oceans involved in his quest and the waves of support generated by his heroic efforts. At the end of the short road is information on how the story played out and the legacy Terry left behind. It occurs to us that the Terry Fox Run is taking place this very weekend all across Canada

Our next destination is the tiny community of Quidi Vidi, tucked just north of St. John's proper. We drive by Quidi Vidi Lake before reaching one of the most picturesque locations you can imagine. Quidi Vidi harbour (or gut, as they call it), provides a natural haven for small fishing boats. On both sides, quaint little homes and businesses precariously balance between sheer cliffs and the tranquil waters of the harbour.

We visit a modern building with a tourist information centre downstairs and small shops with local crafts upstairs. We then stroll down the south side of the harbour to the Quidi Vidi Brewery, which manufactures a wide range of beer.

Heading back to town, we stop at a small grocery store. One thing we've been trying to do is purchase a cheap styrofoam cooler that we can use in the car to keep our food cool. I ask at the store, but again the answer is no. However, a customer just paying for her groceries overhears my request and offers to give me an insulated bag. "I've got tons at home," she tells me and instructs me to follow her home, about a half a block away. I hop back in the car and drive to her place, where she gives me a perfectly fine Corona refrigerator bag. I can report that the reputation of Newfoundlanders as helpful and friendly people is completely true.

En route to our next destination, we stop to admire the "jelly bean" houses along St. John's streets. These are newer row houses that reflect the tradition of bright primary colours for home exteriors.

We arrive at The Rooms, St. John's major museum. It's a gorgeous building, spacious and modern. We spend about three hours viewing exhibits on Newfoundland history and culture, flora and fauna. It strikes me that there are so many sad chapters in this area's history: the extinction of the Beothuk people; the repeated wars and destruction of settlements by the English, French and Dutch; the decimation of Newfoundland troops in both world wars; the tragic losses of life in fires and fishing and sealing disasters; and on and on. Yet the people remain resilient and strong, and have an infectious lust for life.

There are quite a number of people from the Eurodam at the museum; we recognize their Holland America bags and stickers. We strike up a conversation with a group of them. Their itinerary started in Copenhagen. They have visited ports in Scandinavia, Iceland, Greenland, and are now in St. John's. Their next and final port of call is New York.

Across the street from The Rooms is the St. John the Baptist Cathedral. While there are several churches in the city worth visiting, we wanted especially to see this one. Built in 1841, the cathedral was specifically designed and situated to dominate the St. John's landscape. It is immense on the outside, but the interior is cavernous. The architect managed to create a huge interior space with few columns to obstruct the view. The stained-glass windows are striking, especially with the brilliant sun outside.

We return to Water St. and spend the rest of the afternoon shopping in the many interesting stores in that area. Violet has a certain grandson on her mind.

Our stomachs are beginning to rumble. We have decided to seek out a pub called the Duke of Duckworth. It's undoubtedly little different from dozens of other pubs in the city, but it's in our sights because it is a location often used in filming episodes of the TV show Kingdom of Doyle. We have some trouble finding it, as it turns out the entrance is not on Duckworth but on a small pedestrian lane that climbs between Water St. and Duckworth.

The place is packed. The main attraction appears to be the Blue Jays game against Boston. Just as we enter, a tremulous roar erupts as the Jays hit a double. It turns out the score is 4-3 for Boston in the ninth. I can assure everyone in Ontario that Newfoundlanders are all Jays fans. (Unfortunately, the score does not change.)

We start by ordering Quidi Vidi beer (amber) and then of course opt once again for fish and chips, although we sub in a salad for the fries in deference to our arteries. The food is great, the ambience is warm, and the service is slow.

Our tummies happy, we return to our hotel to map out tomorrow's route. We enjoy some of the chocolate bars we purchased yesterday along with some wine we picked up earlier from the LCB. Wine and chocolate–what a great way to finish the day!

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Photos

Terry Fox Memorial
St. John's, NFLD

Quidi Vidi Harbour
St. John's, NFLD

"Jelly bean" houses
St. John's, NFLD

The Rooms
St. John's, NFLD

St. John the Baptist Cathedral
St. John's, NFLD

Duke of Duckworth
St. John's, NFLD