NFLD Day 2

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We blissfully sleep in this morning. What a great way to start our vacation!

We have a satisfying breakfast at the hotel and then head by car for Signal Hill, arguably the city's #1 tourist attraction. After a little bit of trouble in the rabbit warren of streets around the base of the hill, we find the correct road and start climbing.

Signal Hill rises on the north side of the Narrows, the entrance from the ocean to the spacious St. John's harbour beyond. For centuries, it has been of immense strategic importance for guarding the harbour, and has seen numerous battles. Its rich history has left behind many ruins and artifacts.

Our first stop along the way is Deadman's Pond, encircled by an easy trail. Towering above it is an outcropping called Gibbet's Hill, where executed prisoners would be hung out as a warning to other miscreants. Already we have excellent views of the city and harbour below us, as well as the dramatic, stark and rocky landscape before us. The sky, which started grey and dreary, is starting to lighten and lift.

Our second stop en route to the summit offers a museum that provides an overview of the rich history of Signal Hill through the ages, including a short film. Housed in the same building as the museum is a chocolate and ice cream store. All their products are locally made. We purchase a variety of chocolate bars to enjoy later, as well as two cups of gelato to enjoy now. My choice is partridge berry, which is both sweet and tart at the same time.

Across the road is a children-oriented geological museum called the Johnson Geo Centre. We content ourselves with walking through a garden with huge stones from the surrounding area, each labelled with the type of rock and its geological history. We learn that the rocks all around are some of the oldest that can be found on the surface of the planet, some formed more than 2 billion years ago.

Back in the car and on to the summit. At the top is the Cabot Tower, where for generations watchmen lived and watched the sea, signaling to ships and to the town below information about incoming vessels. And here was where Marconi received the first telegraph message from across the Atlantic, issuing in the telecommunications age.

The views on both the seaward side and the inland side are fantastic. The sky has cleared by now and it's turning into a beautiful, warm day, although we are buffeted by strong winds here at the summit. I stroll along some of the many trails that lead from the summit, enjoying the hike, the fine vistas, and the beautiful weather.

We return to downtown St. John's by car and drive the length of Water St., the city's main drag along the harbour front. The slow traffic allows us to check out the various businesses along the way. At the far Westen end of Water St., we turn onto Highway 11. Our destination is Cape Spear.

The route takes through mostly forested country, although there are clumps of homes at intervals, with quite a bit of new construction going on. The trees are all stunted, the tallest no more than 15 feet, reflecting the harsh climate and unrelenting wind. As we reach Cape Spear, the forests subside and that is left is scrub, flowers, lichen and rock.

Cape Spear is the most easterly point of North America. It's a rugged point of land surrounded on three sides by ocean. As we park the car we hear the foghorn blow, for, even though the day is by now bright and clear, there is a curtain of fog out to sea.

We stroll to the edge of the point that is the actual most easterly point. It is low, near the sea on the side facing St. John's harbour entrance in the distance. The seas crash onto the rocks just below us, blasting clouds of surf into the air. Nearby are two gun batteries built by the U.S. during WWII. Each has a huge cannon that was stored underground for protection and would rise up into firing position.

We climb to the summit. First we see the modern light house, relatively small and completely automated. There is a small gift shop and a display on the history of the cape and its lighthouse. Further up is the original lighthouse, recently renovated according to the design in 1860. The light keeper and his family lived here in almost complete isolation, responsible for lighting the whale-oil lamp every night and turning it by hand.

The Parks Canada interpreter at the lighthouse hails from Metcalfe ON. She thinks she's seen me before, so we verbally explore possible connections (school, music sports, sports, etc.) but ultimately find none. Delightful girl nonetheless.

Back in the car to return to the city. Along the way, we stop at Mile Zero of the Trans-Canada Trail. We finally find a parking spot along Water St. Desperate about now for a coffee, we visit a small coffee shop, where we get some great tips about where to find certain items from the friendly staff. It's now 6 o'clock, however, and the stores are all closing. So we decide to have dinner at Yellow Belly, a well-known microbrewery and restaurant. We sample a flight of five different brews and immensely enjoy burgers that mix beef with pulled pork and blue cheese.

After dinner, we stroll along nearby George St., notorious for its bars and feisty nightlife. It's now about 7:30 and things are just starting to get going. The coffee shop staff told us that by 9 o'clock on a Saturday night, George St. would be a zoo.

Back to the car as we head for north St. John's on a quest for a Sobey's. It's even harder to find your way through the maze now that it's dusk, but we eventually find the grocery store. We stock up on some food items so we can keep our restaurant bills down.

Back to the hotel. We've done well today.

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Photos

Cabot Tower
Signal Hill, St. John's

View of St. John's harbour
Signal Hill, St. John's

Cape Spear NFLD
Modern lighthouse and museum in background

Most easterly point in North America
Cape Spear NFLD

Mile 0 of Trans-Canada Highway
St. John's NFLD

Flight of beer at Yellow Belly
St. John's NFLD

Comments

[Gail MacDonald]

Here I am again...
Enjoyed Days One and two and looking forward to upcoming reports. Having been in Nfld before all will be a wonderful reminiscent experience.. Have fun!!!