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Published: June 21st 2017
Geo: 45.6021, -64.9428
We left Lunenberg somewhat reluctantly having been rather taken with that South Eastern Coast of Nova Scotia though we were pleased to hear from some folk we met while walking that there are direct flights between Gatwick and Halifax which would facilitate a return at some point in the future.
We were headed for the little town of Alma in New Brunswick, gateway to Fundy National Park. We would be staying at Cleveland Place B&B (and bookstore....and Gift Shop) and the friendly folks there had already told us of a couple of good stops on the way, Hopewell Rocks Country Park and Cape Enrage.
Hopewell sits at the top corner of the Bay of Fundy where the tides are enormous and swepp in over tidal flats and erode the cliffs into strange shapes and stacks known as chimney pots. When we arrived it was obvious the park was 'closed' - nothing physically stops you entering but the visitor centre etc are closed and there are signs everywhere saying you enter at your own risk. It is risky, you need to know the times of the tides otherwise you risk becoming trapped at the bottom of the cliffs, they leave rope
fastened to the cliff to help you if you did become trapped, but I don't see it helping much. Anyway there was excellent walking along the top of the cliffs with plenty of viewpoints and it was great because there were so few people around. In summer it obviously gets rammed - the car park was the size of Brighton.
Then on to Cape Enrage, a towering cliff with a lighthouse perched on top, and Alma itself - which seems to make its living out of lobster catching, cooking and eating.
Our hosts at the B&B were enormously friendly and needed ittle prompting from Liz to tell us their life stories. The house dates back to the 1870s or thereabouts and they care for it lovingly. They also gave us tips for walks in Fundy Park next day.
Dinner was at the family eatery down the road (is North America the only place with the concept of a 'family restaurant, are they family-run, or family friendly? is there an equivalent non-family restaurant?), anyway dinner included, obviously, lobster!
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