We cycled from Canada to Alaska and back in a day!

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But it was only a mile in each direction, across the border from Stewart (British Columbia) to Hyder (Alaska) and back. We had a day off from the motorbikes, and borrowed some bicycles from the hotel to have a potter around.

These towns were built on the gold rush and logging, but are now gradually fading away. Set amongst the beautiful mountains and glaciers of northern BC, their populations are falling as they struggle to cope with the loss of their former industries. Stewart had a peak population of around 1,200, which has now diminished to 300. For some reason, the short wet summers and 30 foot snowfalls in winter are regarded as something of a niche taste. Some folk, when moving out, have to abandon houses rather than selling, as buyers can't always be found.

Which seems inconceivable the day we were there, as the sun was shining, and it was absolutely stunning.

Hyder in particular retains a flavour of the gold rush. While having a drink, we learned from the barmaid that the equivalent of motorcycle pillion provision is referred to out here as a 'bitch seat'. How quaint.

We've also clocked the following over the last few days:

Salmon - huge ones swimming up the river in Hyder to spawn and die, and to get eaten by...
Bears - blacks and grizzlies, generally hanging around by the sides of the road, but also one in a stream checking out the salmon.
Bald eagles - also feasting on the fish.
Totem poles - real scary ones too (see picture).

No sign of a fully kitted out Mountie yet, though. Sorry, men-in-uniform fans! (Which includes Christine).

Hope the weather improves for you all - it's fantastic here...

x

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Photos

Hyder City limits
It's as 'yee-ha!' as it looks.

Captain Terry's had shut down.
And I was fresh out of Exotic Junk and Knives, unfortunately.

An unparalleled beauty
The scenery isn't bad either.

Our hotel in Stewart
Accommodation so far generally spot on.

Scary totem pole
Zoinks - get us outta here!

Comments

[Father Karras]

totem terror
Do you think whoever carved the totem pole had recently watched The Exorcist? Whatever you do, stay away from the deserted amusement park...

[Sophia Robb]

Fantastic to read about your trip. You sure are mean to your backsides - a day off the motorbike and what do you do? Sit right back down again on them. Am really enjoying the details of the little-known places, so please do keep up the blogging. And I hope you get to eat some of those salmon. Sun finally shining here too, but scenery not quite on a par. Take care and keep up the posts Sophia x

[anonymous]

I am always on the look out for your blogs and very envious of you both! The scenery looks out of this world - I do agree with you about the scary totem pole though! Take care and I look forward to the next saga. Susan xx

[Alison]

The Good The Bad and The Ugly
Certainly the theme tune was heard in my head when I looked at the last shot! Clint chewing his stub cruising over the plain... Love your regular updates!

[JM]

zoink, eh!
Gad you're enjoying the local scenery - definitely zoinks about the totem pole. Any scare old mines around? Any scary old miners? If you come across any get right back on that bitch seat and leave town! Will advise AC and BH that you've experienced the true Canada now - MacTeer be damned, eh!

[jo and john]

Looks fab
Guys Hi, Fantastic to be part of the adventure, couldnt comment on the bums bit! Love and hugs to both XXXX