Blogs from Turkey, Middle East - page 18

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Middle East » Turkey » Aegean » Ephesus March 30th 2018

Hot on the heels of our visit to Troy, today we are off to see another ancient city, this time Ephesus. This city was named after one of two things; either 'Efersia’ - Amazon Queen - named after the legendary wacko Amazonian women who cut off their left breasts to make it easier to use their bows and who are said to have founded the city OR after the symbol of the city, 'apis’ - honey bee. I know which I prefer, take your pick. There are also two reasons to explain why Ephesus is situated where it is. There's the highly implausible: access to the sea for trading and between mountains as it's easier to defend OR the much more likely: Ionian Prince Androclos was given a sign by the Delphi oracle who said to ... read more
Ephesus resident cat
Explaining how the columns were made
Ephesus mosaics

Middle East » Turkey » Aegean » Selçuk March 30th 2018

Ephesus done we head off for lunch at a little country restaurant serving the famous gozleme, a thinly rolled and folded pancake stuffed with spinach, cheese potato and aubergine. We watch the lady making them by rolling out the pastry on a big circular board with a long, thin rolling pin and cooking them on a wood burning fire. I also try the Turkish version of lassi called ayran, a salted yoghurt drink. Both are scrummy. We're actually at a place called the Seven Sleepers, near Selcuk. The story goes that during the religious persecutions seven young men were accused of being Christians and ran away to the mountains to hide out. They fell asleep and awoke a day later... or so they thought. One of them braved going back to the village to buy some ... read more
The way to the Seven Sleepers cave tombs
Lottie Let Loose at the top of the Ayasuluk Fortress, Selcuk
Rolling out dough to make gozleme

Middle East » Turkey » Aegean » Selçuk March 30th 2018

This evening a few of us take a short trip from Selcuk to see a pretty little village up in the mountains called Sirince. The houses are very old and are of Greek style. For centuries the village was populated by Greek people whose families had been there for generations. In 1921-22 Greece and Turkey began a conflict that meant the two nationalities instead of living peacefully together began to hate each other. To resolve the situation the governments of the two countries came to an agreement in 1923 to exchange residents based on their religions so Greek Christians had to leave their homes in Sirince (and many other parts of Turkey) and go to Greece and the Turks moved into their homes. Because there were more Turks than Greeks many houses remained empty. Today Sirince ... read more
Wine tasting at Sirince Village (sticking to the sides of the glass!)
Sirince Village
Sirince Village

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Troy March 29th 2018

Gunyden - good morning. Another day in Turkey and it’s looking a little brighter. No rain. We are on our travels again; this time from Canukkale to Selcuk. We have our own little bus and our driver Ali welcomes us on board. As we are leaving Canukkale we pass a mosque and Burak explains that it is a relatively new building known as a foundation mosque - the Government pays for the foundations of the building and donations have to be raised to pay for the rest. Now to the cats… well Troy really, but it's all about the cats. We are met at the entrance gate by a hoard of fluffy lovelies. Some are happy to be fussed over so I get a little distracted by cat cuteness and fall behind with my usual notebook ... read more
Map showing the different phases of buildings at Troy
Troy remains
Troy remains

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Canakkale March 28th 2018

Today we are on the move, leaving Istanbul behind. The open road for me is a time for reflection and resolution. We are due to visit the Anzac landings at Gallipoli, a place of war and the tragic deaths of hundreds of thousands of young men caught up in battles not of their making. I'd mentioned to our tour leader that I'd prefer not to go on the tour here and could I be dropped off somewhere to wait until the group finished looking around Gallipoli. I really didn't want to spend part of my holiday going to a place that represents how crap human beings are, showing how little they've learnt from history and how a few men in power make decisions that destroy so many young men's lives and those of their families. As ... read more
Cafe time in rainy Canukkale
The Trojan Horse used in the film 'Troy'
Taking the ferry to Canukkale

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul March 27th 2018

It's been raining heavily over night leaving a fresh feel to the air as we set off on a guided tour of the main sights of Istanbul. We start in Gülhane Park just near our hotel and I'm surprised to see green parakeets flying around the tops of the tall plane trees. There are also a few storks building precarious stick nests in the highest branches. The Park is heaving with perfect pink and white tulips painted with drops of water, the after effects of the night's deluge. I'm so caught up with watching the bird life I almost miss the tulip story. Tulips first came to Istanbul from Kashmir as bulbs. At first people thought they were some kind of root vegetable and tried to eat them. A few conversations along the lines of 'What ... read more
Tulips being tended in Gülhane Park, Istanbul
Tulips from Istanbul
Tulips from Istanbul

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul March 27th 2018

Being taken around the ancient sites of Istanbul my imagination transports me back in history - they do things differently there you know! I feel the weight of privilege as a woman today able to stand in these places denied to so many women of times past. I mentally stick my middle finger up on their behalf! We are standing in the grounds of what used to be the Sultan's Topkapi Palace (now Gülhane Park). Here egotistical men claimed themselves superior amongst all men (women didn't count for much in those days) and took on the role of leader, top dog, head honcho (or in my considered opinion - asshole extremist) living in opulant luxury while 'their people’ lived in abject poverty. These Sultan's felt the need to bolster their fragile masculinity by keeping up to ... read more
Gülhane Park, Istanbul
Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya)
Obelisks, Istanbul

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul March 27th 2018

Let us through, let us through. VIPs coming your way. Prepare to be astounded by our beauty, intelligence and opulent wealth larding the ground as we go! Our 15 day museum cards seem to do the trick and get us into Aya Sofya or Hagia Sophia skipping the long queues. Our heightened sense of self importance is of course only in our heads. We are mere mortals and feel this intensely as we enter this stunning, grandeose building. It seems that the Church of Holy Wisdom as it's otherwise known is a bit of a misnomer as at various periods of its history, political controversy has been the overriding factor not wisdom. Some would rather it became a mosque again, as it was in Ottoman times, others are fine with keeping its current status as a ... read more
'Stairway to Heaven' inside the Haghia Sophia, Istanbul
Inside Haghia Sophia, Istanbul
Bribing baby Jesus!

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul March 27th 2018

Enter Istanbul's Grand Bazaar at your own peril, for those who are not quick of wit and sound of mind may find themselves trapped in the labyrinth of criss crossing alleys and walkways forever doomed to wander past shops of gold! Dazed shoppers can be seen at various gateways exiting with a mixture of relief and confusion. 'Where the f am I?', they ask random strangers still clutching onto their redundant street maps as if their life depended on it. As our group braves the Bazaar (safety in numbers we kid ourselves) we are dazzled by gold jewellery, brashly and unashamedly begging us to buy. Here gold is king, the stuff of dowries and bridal dreams. There are colourful ceramics, plates, bowls, lanterns and sumptuous patterns on material fit for a Sultan. There's Turkish delight and ... read more
Inside the Grand Bazaar, Istanbul
Inside the Süleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul
Cheesecake!

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul March 26th 2018

After just over three hours flying towards a new adventure in Turkey our captain announces it will be twenty minutes to touchdown at Istanbul's Atatürk airport. Five minutes later we hit turbulence and the plane judders and dips alarmingly making the woman next to me clutch the arm rests so tightly it literally becomes a white knuckle ride for her. A few other passengers scream at every big jolt. The captain is back on the intercom telling us that an unexpected tail wind is causing the excessive turbulence and that air traffic control has put us into a holding pattern with other aeroplanes waiting to land. We have to sit out the scary turbulence for an extra 10 minutes. It's vomit inducing being chucked around and I almost have to search the seat pockets for a ... read more
Baklava
Baklava and Çay




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