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Old lady making lace on her doorstep
After Ephesus we visited the former Greek village of Sirince, famous for its fruit wines, and wandered through the steep winding little streets and the bazaars. There were olive groves and grapevines on the hillsides and it felt as if I was back in a Greek Island. Hi again for the next chapter of my blog, Turkey Part Two, although it's now over a month later and I'm actually in Russia. I guess it's better late than never! Thanks again to everyone for comments and emails. I really enjoy hearing from you.
The last blog ended at Ephesus so I'll carry on from there as we travel up towards Gallipoli. We visit some more famous historical sites along the way and then cross the Dardanelles by ferry from the continent of Asia to the continent of Europe. The purpose of this "Brigadier" tour comes next as we visit the WW1 battlefields of Gallipoli, spending the night under the stars before attending the ANZAC Dawn Service and the Australian and New Zealand Services on 25th April. This was a highlight and made me very proud to be a kiwi. I can't possibly convey the feelings we all had at Gallipoli. It was an emotional rollercoaster and one of those things where you just had to be there. I'm so glad I went. This blog ends with the last days back in Istanbul where it was sad to farewell so many new friends but as one of them said
Lovely view from our balcony at hotel in Kusadasi
We spent a night here in Kusadasi (near Ephesus) which is set in a gulf overlooking the Aegean and is known for its turquoise water, sandy beaches and sun. It has a large marina and caters for all the tourists on cruise ships. It is close to the Greek Island of Samos. "It's not goodbye but til we meet again". It's great to hear that many of them are meeting in London...hope I get there sometime too guys!
I'm now working in St. Petersburg for an English speaking newspaper "Neva News" and learning all about another amazing country. I still have several blogs to catch up so look out for Italy next.
Take care all
Love Dee
PS My knowledge of WW1 was abyssmal but I had the most moving and illuminating lesson possible by learning about it on the very site. Here's an overview of the Gallipoli campaign (you won't need to read all this if you know it already!) from information we received there: In Feb. 1915 British ships began bombarding Turkish defences at the straits of the Dardanelles to break through to Constantinople (Istanbul) and force Turkey, Germany's ally, out of the war. This would enable Britain and France to supply their ally Russia through Turkish waters and open a southern front against Austria-Hungary. The naval attack failed so a plan was developed to invade Gallipoli peninsula to overcome Turkish defences and then allow the navy through the Dardanelles. An army was assembled in Egypt and
Magnificent acropolis of ancient Pergamum
These ruins are on the top of a huge hill overlooking plains and the present day city Bergama. It was an ancient city of northwest Asia Minor, the capital of the Kingdom of Pergamum and an ally of Rome. From the 4th to 2nd centuries BC it was very powerful and a centre of art and culture with a famous library. on the nearby Greek Islands consisting of British, Australian, NZ, Indian and French soldiers.
The Australian and NZ Army Corp (ANZAC) were to land first towards the north of the peninsula and the British later more toward the south. The Anzacs clambered ashore off ships at dawn on 25th April 1915 at North Beach and Anzac Cove, some being shot or drowning before they even set foot on Turkish soil. They scrambled up steep, rugged, scrub-covered, unfamiliar slopes towards the high ground. It would have been dark and cold and they were wet and each carrying a heavy load. At first they pushed the Turkish defenders back but by nightfall none of the objectives had been met. The commanders on the spot recommended withdrawal but were ordered to dig in and hold on. This "Battle of the Landing" , which was meant to last one day, raged for days costing thousands of casualties on both sides.
On 8th May the Anzacs were ordered forward over open and exposed ground and many were killed or wounded. By mid-May the attempt to seize the Dardanelles had failed and the Turks mounted a major attack to drive the Anzacs out. The
The group file down the steep descent in the Theatre of Pergamum
This 3rd century BC theatre has seating for 10 000 people and is one of the steepest in the world with the plains far below. They sure knew how to pick a good spot but how did they build these amazing constructions? The group looked like ants when they got to the bottom. Great performance of "Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes" in Turkish team! campaign had become one of trench warfare in which both sides, only metres apart, sought to break through the other's lines. There are some remarkable stories about relationships formed and courageous acts of kindness at this time between "enemy" soldiers. On 19th May another fierce battle led to 3000 Turks and several hundred Anzacs lying dead between the enemy lines as the brave Anzacs held on. On 24 May a truce was arranged to permit burial of the dead. There were so many casualties that the wounded couldn't receive adaquate care and when the summer heat came disease broke increasing the suffering.
The British planned a new offensive for early August to capture ground leading to Chunuk Bair and Hill 971, with supporting attacks at Lone Pine and the Nek where many Australians were cut down. On 6th August the Australians captured trenches at Lone Pine. The New Zealanders, fighting desperately and sustaining great losses, finally reached and held the summit of Chunuk Bair. The fighting at Lone Pine and Chunuk Bair went on for 4 days and is remembered as the most epic of battles for the Anzacs. On 10th August the Turks, led by Mustafa Kemal (later
Two contemporary gazing statues: "Nicholas and Steven"
There are ruins with many famous names (much older than the two above!) in this high place like Temples of Athena, Dionysus and Trajan and the Alter of Zeus. The Turkish Govt is trying to get treasures back from Germany where they were taken by archeologists and are now in Berlin Museum. Turkey's first President Ataturk) counter-attacked and regained the summit. The "August Offensive" had failed.
The British mounted no further major attacks and criticism of the whole venture increased. Winter came in November and men froze at their posts. Eventually it was decided that the campaign should cease and the remaining soldiers were successfully evacuated during December 1915 and early January 1916 after 9 arduous months.
On Gallipoli men of both sides (about one million in total) showed bravery and endurance. Tragically 1/3 to 1/2 of them became casualties. 2721 New Zealanders and 8709 Australians died and another 24193 Anzacs were wounded. Also killed were more than 32000 soldiers from Britain, France, India and Newfoundland and over 72000 wounded. Turkish casualties were also huge with 165000 wounded and 87000 killed. During the campaign the Anzacs and the Turks faced each other as enemies but developed mutual respect for each other and today, as a result of their sacrifice, the people of these three nations come together in the spirit of friendship and remembrance with a commitment to peace, democracy and freedom. The incredible thing is that the majority of the thousands who come today are young people, probably similar
Tree for Emma
This tree high on the top by the ruins had lots of bits of tissue tied to it so I asked Gokhan what it meant. He said mothers tie the paper there and it is for a good marriage for their daughter....there's one there for you Ems! in age to most of the soldiers who gave their lives 91 years ago.
The Anzac site is part of the "Gallipoli Peninsula International Peace Park" and all this information is on panels in English and Turkish in the park. Also scattered throughout the park are the cemeteries and memorials which honour the dead and recall those desperate days of Gallipoli.
They shall not grow old,
As we that are left grow old.
Age shall not weary them,
Nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun,
And in the morning,
We will remember them.
We will remember them.
The "Spirit of ANZAC" was suggested by official war historian C.E.W. Bean to have "stood, and still stands, for reckless valour in a good cause, for enterprise, resourcefulness, fidelity, comradeship and endurance that will never own defeat." The Spirit of ANZAC is invincible.
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Nancy Rae
non-member comment
Hi Dee
What another wonderful BLOG. You really do it so well. What an experience at ANZAC Cove and what a truely waste of good lives.Good to know the Memorial will go on forever.You must have had lots of fun with the Group too.The world is certainly a small place when you are travelling as we have found out.Squash Club still in good spirits. Ladder nites are full up and a lot of new faces around. Tourney on weekend of 30th June-if enough entries!!.Keep smiling.Thoughts from us both.Don and Nancy.