Advertisement
Published: April 19th 2024
After the sights inside the bazaars and the smells it was time to load up a route on Holafly and let it take us from close to the Galata Bridge to the great mosque of Suleymaniye. It was built like all our cathedrals on a hill meant to impose itself on the city. I wondered how many mosques there were in the city as we had passed the New Mosque built in the 17th century , the Tulip Mosque the Princes Mosque . One dedicated to Kalenderhane . They just popped up everywhere dominating Istanbul . I did consider if we were going to be mosqued out . A case of ABM - another bloody mosque . But to be fair up to now that had not happened . We were being pulled in by the stunning architecture, the soaring domes and the ambition of the sultans who financed them. There had been a great deal of wealth to build these structures .
They all followed a similar pattern . There seemed to be a pattern book for mosques . All with varying numbers of minarets. We were later to find out the reason for the differing numbers of minarets
on each building . But as of now we had no idea other than some had one minaret, others two and the rest anywhere up to four or six . This mosque had four minarets with decorated balconies . There was a symmetry that in mosques that you don't see in European churches .
Suleymaniye mosque was the most important mosque in the city. It was said to be a tribute to its builder Sinan and a fitting memorial to Suleymaniye the Magnificent . Sinan was so important he was buried in the graveyard of the mosque . Built above the Golden Horn - now that took us back to school Geography lessons - it was in the grounds of the old palace Eski Saray. Built between 1550 and 1557 it was when we finally got in a stunning building . The accolades went on and on. Stunning . Beautiful architecture . Thought provoking . Interesting . We just kept on looking and admiring .
The mosque was the centrepiece which we found eventually after circumnavigating the nearby streets finding gateways and tunnels that led upwards . These opened out into green spaces . A former hospital building
, a soup kitchen , schools , a kervanseray and bathhouse completed the complex. The poor were well catered for in the mosque .
Apparently there were underground cafes in the sunken garden and the old kitchen but we never found these . The buildings that housed them were built with many many domes in a beautiful mellow white marble .
I think we actually entered through the wrong gate the Imaret gate - the kitchen gate and found ourselves walking alongside the graveyard and the entrance for muslim worshippers only. This was signed no entrance through the Muvakkithane gateway . Go round the corner to the public entrance which opened out into an open space with ablutions fountain for worshippers to cleanse themselves . The columns used in the courtyard were another example of recycling . They had once been part of the Byzantine royal box on the Hippodrome .
Sinan had built 131 mosques in the city and 200 other buildings so prolific and extremely talented . Marble had been shipped from various sites in Constantinople and other parts of the empire for construction of this masterpiece . The idea had been that this mosque
would surpass Hagia Sophia and it did but in a different way as Hagia Sophia still retained Christian motifs amongst its Islam reincarnation. This mosque was pure Islamic . We stood inside the courtyard in awe of the building . Not religious but we could feel the building and its spiritual effect . It made you stop and look . Stop and listen and stop and think . It would come to life with the imam shouting the faithful to prayer . But even empty it was impressive and was what we come to Istanbul to see .
Every where we looked even on the entrance portal was the calligraphy stating in the Sunni version the profession of faith . Iznik tiles gave some colour to the entrance porch. The courtyard like everything in a mosque was perfectly formed and to a specified design and size with columns of marble, granite and porphyry . One side was higher than the rest giving it focus and grandeur . We were getting overwhelmed by the beauty of the courtyard before going inside .
We took our shoes off and placed them in racks outside the prayer hall and donned a
headscarf before entering through the wooden doors . It was hard work all that bending down to untie shoe laces and know that we had to do the opposite on the way out as we put the shoes back on .But worth it to see inside the building .
It was relatively quiet inside apart from the cleaner vacuuming the red carpet . That seemed at odds but then the carpet needed cleaning every day . A few visitors milled around but did not get in the way of photographs . There was a reverence inside as everyone was respectful . A cat was fast asleep on the prayer mat . Ivory and mother of pearl was inlaid into the doors around the space . Every surface decorated but none showing anything that could be seen as worshipping idols . We were fascinated by the large domes and the smaller ones. The geometary of the building was amazing . It seemed a wonder than someone could design such a feature . We stood for a while in our stockinged feet . Stained glass windows but not as we knew it . No saints , no stories from the Koran
just calligraphy. The beauty of the writing stood out. You did not need statues or saints to appreciate the simple beauty of handwriting . We found ourselves just being amazed that we here. Sometimes when you stand quietly you realise that you have actually arrived and are standing amongst history. Who would have thought four weeks ago we would be standing in a mosque in Istanbul . It beggars belief at times .
The cemetery was one of the most interesting features outside the mosque. Enclosed and dominated by two mausoleums and many tombstones which were unlike anything we had seen before . The gravestones were mainly small obelisk shapes some with thistle like decoration and everywhere purple iris .
The first mausoleum known as a turbe that I went in after I removed my shoes and donned the headgear was said to be one of the largest Ottoman mausoleums and its design has been compared to the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. It had apparently been modelled upon the Dome of the Rock. The interior was decorated with blue iznik tiles . There was a riot of colour . Nothing like the dull mausoleums we see
at home . Emerald green tiles and windows letting in the light . Calligraphy was as always everywhere . The structure was built in the 16th century . The tombs were strange to western eyes . The sultans certainly were buried in style - underground with little decoration . The plain sarcopagi may have had a simple inscription and then covered with rich cloth drapes with calligraphy stitched into the fabric . At the head of the tomb was a wooden pole some of which were surmounted by a white cloth Ottoman turban (for men) or by a turban carved in stone. We saw more of the white turbans than the carved ones . We saw the tombs of Suleyman who died in the 1550's , his wife Hurrem Sultan The tombs draped for decency , modesty and respect .
The mosque was an overwhelming structure . One of those places you stand and think of so many things . The people who funded it, the builders and the congregations who have worshipped over the years . The silence is deafening if you are lucky and we were . We picked a good day to visit . Our next
mosque was to be the Blue Mosque which we would visit towards lunchtime when it would be much busier . And we had to work between prayer time . Today was the first day of Eid so a different feeling to Ramadan . We walked for a while taking in the beauty of the building and the graveyard .
Leaving we had one last look behind us at the mosque . So which was best Hagia Sophia or this one ? Both different we decided we not compare them . The comparison would come at the Blue Mosque .
Istanbul was waking up as we left the peace of the mosque . We left the quietness behind and headed for lunch . A small cafe serving baklava and a good cup of coffee . The streets were heaving with the faithful heading for prayer and the tourists taking in the Topkapi Palace, the Cistern and Hagia Sophia .
Advertisement
Tot: 0.042s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 8; qc: 25; dbt: 0.0204s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Uma
non-member comment
Suggestion
Exploring Istanbul's iconic Suleymaniye Mosque unveils a fascinating blend of history, architecture, and everyday life. From the solemn gravestones outside to the charming presence of cats, it's a testament to the city's rich cultural tapestry and the legacy of master builder Sinan.