Turkey 8 - Istanbul /the Egyptian Bazaar /the Grand Bazaar /the smell of spices /Viagra Tea /trade was always important

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Another decent sleep . It does feel odd to be sleeping in a large bed rather than the cramped interior of Gabby but we are beginning to get used to having the little extra room. Breakfast again was a brilliant affair . Our Australian neighbours heading for Gallipoli today were making the most of the small gym and the spa in the hotel . The Japanese guests of which there were many were filling their breakfast plates over and over again. At times the volumes on plates seemed excessive . Our pickings were sparse as we are not in love with large breakfasts . However each day I did try something different .

Our plan was to pop the route to the Egyptian Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar into the phone using Holafly as our data carrier . It set us out a route from our hotel to the Eminonu area of the city where the bazaars were located . This was heading out toward the Galata Bridge where we had seen the men of the city fishing in the Bosphorous yesterday evening .

We had read up on both bazaars so knew what to expect . But then do you always get what you expect ? Sometimes expections are exceeded and other not met. I wondered what today would bring .

Trade has always been important to Istanbul . The Vikings were here . The Venetians called in from time to time. The spice route always comes to mind when you talk of Istanbul. The importance of straddling Europe and Asia was clear even to us today . A major airline hub with plans for even more expansion . A stop off before heading into Asia. It felt like the UK did pre - Brexit when we were the English speaking bridge between the EU and the USA. We felt as we followed HolaFlys directions we were heading into warrens of narrow streets where without it we would easily have become lost . Everywhere along the way the shops were opening . Men were carrying goods into the shops , filling racks with children and adults clothing . The childrens dresses looked pretty . All shiny, sequined , pink, taffeta and lace . The sort of dresses we perhaps wore for parties if we were lucky when we were infants . The womens dress was conservative . Long , body covering normally black, grey or brown . A hint of bling on the sleeve at times . The only colour was the headscarves . The shops were empty . It was only 8am and the only life the shopkeepers . All smoking in doorways whilst chatting to each other .

We looked through any archway and saw more of the same shops. Courtyards full of shops . It seemed hard to understand how they made any money as we rarely saw anyone buying .

Our first stop was going to be the Egyptian Bazaar. Said to be smaller than the Grand Bazaar , colourful and more manageable . TripAdvisor reviews mentioned getting lost and overwhelmed in the Grand Bazaar , how the Egyption was nicer . So we were about to find out which was true.

The Egyptian Bazaar was built in 1660 as part of the New Mosque complex. It was a spice market and the smell hit us as we walked in. The bazaar felt cavenous but actually was just L shaped which made it easy not to get lost inside. It was built as a place to house a market and the proceeds of sales went to fund the mosque and its philanthropic institutions. The Turkish name for the market is Misir Carsisi which derives from the duty paid on Egyptian goods coming into the city . The bazaar had specialised in spices from the Orient . We walked the length of the building having first been scanned yet again by security X Ray machines .

The smell!!!!! That is what hit us as we entered. And the colour . The displays in each small shop were similar . The owners were dusting their shelves and wares with feather dusters . They cleaned the passage between each shop. The cleanliness was unbelievable . We were in awe of the reds, yellows , greens and oranges of the spices all waiting to be sold . Small dried camomile leaves roses picked in bud and dried . We could buy any spice we wanted plus others we had never heard of. Tea made from every possible flower . Tiny pink rosebuds for stewing for tea . Viagra tea prominent on every stall . Calming tea, relaxing tea , invigorating tea, tea for wellbeing , tea to make you stress free . The list went on and on. It was a delight and a feast for the senses to walk down this small but perfectly formed bazaar.

We left and headed for the Grand Bazaar . How would that compare to the smaller more intimate Egyptian ? We knew it was going to be large and had read that nothing can prepare you for the labyrinth of streets that is covered by the painted vault and lined with thousands of booth like shops. First thoughts it was indeed large . Yes the ceiling was painted but so was the Egyptian Bazaar . It felt so large as to be unmanageable and once you had seen one street then the others just looked the same . The same cleaning was going on , the same spice shops but none of the smell we had left behind us in the Egyptian Bazaar. The building this time was older established by Mehmet II in 1453 and had many gateways into the complex. Unlike the Egyptian with one street this had many entrances and exits and was easy to get lost inside as it all looked the same . There were more cafes in this complex , different shops selling clothes, lamps and tourist tat . Rugs on display and in the middle a marble fountain which provided water to the Bazaar . Shopkeepers filled their coffee pots from the fountain . Cleaners filled their buckets . Yes it was interesting but which was the best ?

It depends what you want from a bazaar . Something large and all singing and dancing - then the Grand Bazaar fits the bill. If you prefer something smaller , authentic and with delicious smells as well as sounds and sights then it is the Egyptian Bazaar . If we could have only done one then we would chosen the Egyptian and not been disappointed .

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