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Published: January 25th 2021
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The Big Inn
Büyük Han or the Big Inn is a 16th century caravansarai A divided city, a Greek city, another Greek city and a ghost town
We travelled also before we joined TravelBlog. We have started to digitalise photos from those pre-TravelBlog trips and we are planning to write about some of them. Now the turn has come to a trip Ake made to North Cyprus in 2006.
North Cyprus was invaded by Turkey in 1974 and has since then been occupied by Turkey. This situation has left North Cyprus somewhat isolated from the rest of Europe. From what I understand, North Cyprus has for three decades or so had very little contact with any other country than Turkey. Back when I visited North Cyprus the tensions between Cyprus and Northern Cyprus had started to relax a bit and I heard rumours that it was even possible to cross the border at least for foreigners. I didn't try that though so I can't say for sure.
North Nicosia The city Nicosia is the capital of Cyprus. But when North Cyprus was occupied in the 70-ies so was also the northern half of Nicosia. The city is divided in two parts,
North Nicosia and Nicosia, and
Bedesten (St Nicholas Church)
Bedesten in North Nicosia used to be a church dedicated to St Nicholas. Later is was converted to a Bedesten, a kind of market place. in between the two is a clear and very visible border. In places the border is a wall topped by a low fence and in other places there are two walls and a strip of nomansland in between.
When this border was created some houses that were in the way were torn down. Other buildings were shut and were effectively turned into a wall.
Places I visited in North Nicosia include the following:
=> Büyük Han /The Big Inn One of the most spectacular sites in North Nicosia is
Büyük Han, a 16th century
caravansarai. A caravanserai is basically the same thing that we today call motel. It is an exceptionally well preserved building and truly worth a visit.
=> Bedesten, North Nicosia Bedesten in North Nicosia used to be a church dedicated to St Nicholas. Later is was converted to a Bedesten, a kind of market place.
=> Ruins of Vouni Palace Vouni Palace, near the town Lefka, was built around year 500 BCE and was in use for little more than 100 years. Today only ruins are left of this historical place. They are impressively large ruins
A gate or monument?
This was built in 1931 and it is in Nicosia. That's about all I know of it. Is it a gate perhaps? No, probably too new for that. A monument maybe? so it must have been a huge palace.
Soli Less than 10 km east of the Ruins of Vouni Palace is another historical site,
Soli. Soli was according to Wikipedia a city in ancient Greece and predates Vouni Palace by at least a hundred years. However, according to a sign placed at the ruins of its basilica, which is a large public multipurpose building, it was in use from the 4th century to 6th century CE. Since that is 1000 years later I am starting to feel that the few pieces of information I have on this site don't add up.
Saint Hilarion Castle Just over an hour drive east of Soli is
Saint Hilarion Castle. What makes this castle truly spectacular is its setting on top of a ridge. The walls follow the shape of the mountain, creating an illusion of it being more majestic than it actually is. Since the castle is on top of a mountain the views from the castle are spectacular.
Salamis Salamis is just like Soli the ruins of a Greek city. Possibly this was the largest city in entire Cyprus when it was
Selimiye Mosque
Selimiye Mosque, North Nicosia populated, because the ruins cover a very vast area. It is so large that much of it is not even made accessible to visitors.
Famagusta Famagusta is a city on the east coast. I spent the better part of a day there and I saw a lot during these hours.
=> Famagusta Citadel: The city walls around the historical city center were built to protect the city back in its early days. These walls are also known as the Venetian walls since the bulk of them were build when Famagusta was under control of the Venetians.
=>
Lala Mustapha Pasha Mosque: When it was built it served as a Catholic cathedral. Later it was turned into a mosque.
=> St George of the Greeks church: Today this church is an impressive ruin.
=> Church of Sts. Peter and Paul: Built is the 14th century. Was turned into a mosque in the 16th century. Today it is yet another massive ruin.
=>
Varosha: Before Cyprus was occupied the district Varosha in Famagusta was a popular beach resort. It was a place where the rich, the famous and the beautiful gathered. Well ok, probably some of
Selimiye Mosque
Selimiye Mosque, North Nicosia the visitors were poor, anonymous and ugly. But the point.is, Varosha was a trendy and popular place and the beach was lined with hotels and business was booming. It all changed when North Cyprus was occupied. From one day to the next, all of Varosha became quiet. No more tourists, no more swimming, no more hotels. For some reason, the authorities decided to shut off the entire district. Everybody who lived there were evicted and when it was empty it was fenced off. In a very short period of time it was turned into a ghost town. In the time of writing, 45 years later, it is still a ghost town. Why the occupation forces didn't open the hotels and revive the business again when things had calmed down bit is a mystery to me. Recently I heard that they are planning to open parts of Varosha again. But I don't think the once grand hotels along the beach can be used again. I am sure that everything will be far beyond repair. 45 years of total neglect will do that. In 2009 we
visited a town that had been abandoned for only 23 years. 23 years was enough for trees to
Fountain in Nicosia
The fountain of Küçük Medrese take root inside the buildings.
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Unwelcoming Place
I hate to say it, but this looks like a very forbidding and unwelcoming place. It seems like Famagusta and Varosha were for some reason severely punished when North Cyprus was invaded. Now they, as well as other sites on the island, look like good candidates for "Mysteries of the Abandoned." What a shame.