Blogs from Jordan, Middle East - page 108

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Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra April 12th 2007

Well I was planning on doing a single blog for all of Jordan seeing as we are only here for 4 nights, but the combined scenery of Wadi Rum and the city of Petra have put a spanner in the works for that. For anyone considering Petra, it is worth it. It was absolutely amazing, and if I seem t be repeating those exclamations, I will cover my bases and say the day at Petra is the highlight of the trip thus far. We rocked up there and started our tour with the guide and it was a 1.2km walk along the narrow passage you see in all the photos until you come to the 'Treasury'. It's only named that cs the British thought there was gold hidden in the top urn. They shot it ... read more
Treasury
Me playing on the edge
Monastery

Middle East » Jordan » South » Wadi Rum April 10th 2007

Well the following day was a border crossing day, as in it took until 5pm for the 3pm ferry to get going, then getting through customs the other side was another hour. We stopped in Aqaba in Jordan, and immediately we could see the difference between Jordan and Turkey. The money was clean, like the city, and the people didn't hassle you. It was great! Our drive to Wadi Rum (the desert where Lawrence of Arabia shot to fame), where we were sleeping for the night. The drive took us up from the border crossing town and we could see 4 countries all at once. Obviously, we were in one, Jordan, but we could also see Elat in Israel, back across to Egypt and also across to Saudi Arabia. The camp we stayed at was ... read more
Top of a pink dune
Me on the edge
Our camp

Middle East » Jordan » West » Dead Sea April 10th 2007

Been a while since last post, and falling behind. Haven't had much net access lately. Currently in a net cafe with no ventilation, surrounded by chainsmoking Syrians... not sure how much longer I can stand it so this may be short :) When last we met we'd arrived in Amman. The following day we headed out to visit the fabulous ruined Roman city of Jorash, the highlight of which was a fabulous semi-circular theatre in excellent condition that seats ~3000 people. It was even possible to view seat numbers carved beneath the seats... funny how some things work so well they remain unchanged after two thousand years. Was amazing to just sit on a seat (by seat, I mean rows of concrete benches) and wonder who had sat in the same seat over the past two ... read more

Middle East » Jordan » North » Amman April 9th 2007

We had quite an interesting day following Petra. We head north and stopped first at the ruins of an old Crusader castle called Shobak, built high up on a hilltop, one of several in the Jordanian countryside. The road leading up to it was very steep, single lane with a sheer drop 1 foot off the edge of the road. Amazing views from the top though, of course! The knights used these views to effect, as it's positioned in one of the three main routes running north-south through Jordan, and it allowed them to see anyone moving through the corridor and thus control trade routes. The castle was once captured by Saladin after a 2 year siege. Following some more twisty turny narrow mountainside roads, we proceeded to a little village on the edge of a ... read more

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra April 7th 2007

Today we visited the fabulous abandonded city of Petra. It's set in a large canyon accessible only through a long, tiny crack, about 1.2kms long and between 2 and 5 meters wide, with many twists and turns. Petra started off as a Necropolis for burying the dead - the Nabateans carved holes in the solid rock of the cliff for the corpse, and decorate the entrance with carvings. In some cases, these are fabulously ornate, the most spectacular of which is Al Khazneh, known more commonly as The Treasury. If you've seen Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade, you'll recall the scene where Indy and co pass through the Canyon of the Crescent Moon to discover the Temple holding the Holy Grail - that's the treasury. It's pretty special from the outside, but there was ... read more

Middle East » Jordan » South » Aqaba April 6th 2007

...andthefinestmerchandisethissideoftheriverJordanonsaletodaycomeondown!!hehe! Well, actually it was Aqaba, not Aggribah, but I'm such a fan of Aladdin I couldn't pass up that opportunity. (Hi Ian!) Sooo, lets try for a shorter post today, I'm falling too far behind. After our exploits on Mt Sinai we continued to the Egyptian coast to board a hydrofoil for the '1 hour' crossing to Jordan. Well, that was accurate, it did take about 1 hour to cross. What they didn't mention is the 4 hours sitting on extremely uncomfortable wooden benches inside customs with absolutely nothing to do, the ~1 hour it took to travel 200m and get on the boat (involving loading on to and off of buses), the ridiculous amounts of arguing and gesticulation between officials, or the 45minutes we sat on the stationary boat at the other end ... read more

Middle East » Jordan March 31st 2007

When we’d planned our day-trip to Salt, a historic town about a half-hour’s drive from Amman, Akram talked about pulling some strings to arrange a meeting with the mayor. It was a nifty ploy to pique my interest, reluctant as I was to spend one of my last few days in a city named for a kitchen condiment. But how often do you get to have a sit-down with a mayor in the Middle East? I wasn’t entirely sure what angle I’d take in his office. The glowing features writer for Travel + Leisure? The hard-hitting newshound from The Sunday Times? “Mr. Mayor, we’ve been following you for months. We know what you’re up to.” Plopping a portfolio of 8x10s on his desk. “We’ve got all the evidence we need. And we’re gonna take you ... read more
Wandering through Salt
Storefronts, Salt
Late-night BBQ, Amman

Middle East » Jordan March 29th 2007

As a sportswriter for Al Ghad - Jordan’s leading Arabic daily - Akram’s managed to remind me what a complete powder puff I am in the world of serious journalism. Working six days a week, chained to his desk deep into the night as I’m eyeing the girls in Abdoun, he’s a source of both boundless admiration and abject pity. There are about four hundred degrees of separation, I suspect, between me and legitimate press credentials; but as I chat up a young teacher in the Broadway café - a half-Columbian, half-Swiss beauty with eyelashes that can practically hail a taxi - I admit there’s something to be said for my own half-assed brand of softball journalism. When we decide to take a day-trip to Umm Qais - an old Roman city just a few ... read more
Roman theater, Umm Qais
Roman ruins, Umm Qais
Landscape, Umm Qais

Middle East » Jordan March 26th 2007

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time in the hotel lobby, with its fiercely lacquered armchairs and cheap plastic chandelier. Staking out a rickety seat in the corner, surfing a weak WiFi signal that must be beaming in from Hamzeh’s Plastic Shoe Emporium, I’m finally laying the groundwork for the months ahead. I’ve booked my flight to Beirut and reserved what is, at six US bucks, bound to be the cheapest bed in the city. I’ve written to Couchsurfers in Syria, slyly alluding to the letter of invitation I might need to make it across the border. I’ve had more than a few dreams about the girls in Tel Aviv. I’ve researched flights to Nairobi and flights to New York from Johannesburg, scribbling notes on a piece of paper that promptly gets lost under ... read more
Hippodrome, Jerash
Waiting for the show to start, Jerash
Column detail, Jerash

Middle East » Jordan » South » Wadi Rum March 24th 2007

Yesterday I spent seven hours on a camel; re-enacting the march of El Lawrence (Peter O'Toole or Ralph Fiennes, I'm not picky :P) across the desert of Wadi Rum in Jordan before taking a lovely Bedouin-ette for my wife (pictures will follow - when I get around to uploading!). I learnt a few important lessons during the march that I think will prove useful for future El Lawrences: 1) Calling 'For Aqaba' at the top of your lungs while sitting atop a camel can be detrimental to your heath; it should not be attempted, no matter how good it looks on film. 2) Too many El Lawrences can spoil even a desert march - so make sure yours doesn't include more than one adament, arabic-learning, Lawrence lover - and defintely not three. (Note: I am not ... read more




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