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Published: October 16th 2007
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Orkney, a group of stunningly beautiful, barren and mystical islands off the North coast of Scotland was our destination to visit some more far flung family members. The islands fill the visitor with a real sense of history, there were civilisations here 2000 years before the birth of Christ and it was a popular destination for the scariest of invaders, the Vikings. The resulting culture is kind of Scottish with more than a hint of Norse thrown in for good measure.
Scattered around the islands are incredible remnants of all the different periods of life on Orkney; ancient dwellings, spooky stone circles with unknown purposes and the eerie resting place of the German naval fleet, scuttled here in defeat at the end of WW1. Wendy’s mum’s family are from the islands, so there is lots of recent history to explore too.
Physically it is a breathtaking place, very flat, windswept and rugged. There are great towering cliffs hanging over the angry ocean and little villages of stone built houses, huddling together as if for shelter.
Our visit started with a one hour ferry crossing from Gill’s Bay (just round the corner from John O’Groats, the most Northerly point
in the UK) to St. Margaret’s Hope on South Ronaldsay, Orkney. It was a great crossing with flat seas and a slight swell but Wendy’s travel sickness kicked in so she sat staring at the horizon while I tucked into sausage roll and chips and enjoyed the views.
We stayed with Wendy’s auntie Joyce and uncle Alan who run the Creel restaurant and Bed & Breakfast in St. Margaret’s Hope. The Creel is famous in the UK as the home of excellent seafood and Alan has been voted the Best Restaurant Chef in Scotland. It was refreshing for us to experience some brilliant Scottish cuisine as it does get a bit of a bad rep globally. No deep fried Mars bars here…..We had a laugh with Joyce and Allan and they took us on a tour of South Ronaldsay before the mist came rolling in.
The next morning dawned clear and bright so we did a hard run round the island then took off on our tourist route for the day. We stopped off at the Italian Chapel which was built by Italian Prisoners of War during WW2 and is a stunning piece of ingenuity. A fully functioning,
but miniature, Italian chapel complete with art work and Michaelangelo style paintings, but built inside a Nissen Hut!
Next was a drive over the Churchill Barriers. These were put in place during WW2 after a German U-Boat penetrated the British defences and sneaked into the calm waters to attack a warship. The barriers now form major roadways between the islands.
We spent the afternoon atop the cliffs at Yesnaby, soaking up glorious sunshine and watching the raging ocean below. Then a quick trip to the ring of Brodgar with Pops who was working on Orkney at the time. The Ring of Brodgar is 4000 years old, looks a bit like Stonehenge and is a bit of an enigma, no-one really knows what it was used for all those years ago. Some have suggested that it was a colossal cosmic calendar, a giant's boardgame or a place of religious ritual and sacrifice. Famous Scottish funny man Billy Connolly tried to recreate the past by dancing around the ring naked some years back, thankfully Pops didn't follow his example.... Whatever it was originally used for, it’s very spooky to be around the Ring as the sun goes down.
The
The Italian Chapel
St Peter's Basilica as seen by Alice..... next day, Orkney showed its other face with a major storm brewing. Rumours of gale force winds approaching and the resulting ferry cancellations had us changing our plans and heading off the island early after a quick trip to the North to visit Wendy’s family home at Birsay, a remote, isolated village.
Birsay is stunning in its isolation, a small gathering of modest stone houses lining up along the sea front and forming a pathway to the tidal island called the Broch of Bursay. As the storm developed we began to appreciate the harsh life that the locals survive up here, we couldn’t imagine what it would be like at the height of winter.
On the way to catch the ferry in Stromness, we stopped at Scara Brae, the oldest known village in Europe. It was inhabited in approximately 2000bc and is a fine example of communal living from the stone age. It is really well preserved as it lay hidden under meters of sand for thousands of years until a massive storm uncovered it less than 100 years ago.
And then it was a race to the ferry terminal to beat the storms and make a
hasty retreat to the familiarity of the mainland. No sickness for Wendy this time as she popped a kickass travel pill and slept soundly through the whole journey….
Turtles On Tour
The Great Sheep Rescue So we're driving through the remote reaches of Orkney when Wendy spies a sheep lying upside down in a field, clearly struggling to get back up.
"Do you think it needs some help?" She asks dubiously.
All my years growing up on a sheep farm in the highlands come flooding back to me and I'm over the fence and running to the sheep's aid in a flash. Job done, the sheep runs off happily and I return to the car.
I only had second thoughts when I saw the look of astonishment and suspicion on my Fiance's face... maybe I shouldn't have been quite so quick in my dash to the sheep......
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Robert
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familiar
Over the top of the hill, yoy see another old stone house called "Heatherbell" Take right at the and first left you see over the hill three house: Crowsnest (now a diving school),nexr Lobers! My grandma used to live at Crowsnest until she died (croft farming) ; and my mother was born there (1920) Many holidays spend in that place and several times B & B at the old house on the picture It is an oldie but vere good condition exterior and insid both. The road uphill from The Village to Hoxa Hill is called The Ontaft. I wonder if you have a original copy of the old stone house to enlarge for a picture on the wall: MEMORIES Robert van Toor Sandtlaan 23 2231 CB Rijnsburg Holland 0625241463 Thank you so much