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Day 14
Had a good breakfast in Arisaig under a cloudy sky debating the conflicting weather reports. After photographing the memorial to the OSE, and the participants from the Czech republic, in the bay we set off into strong North wind of 20mph making slow progress, especially on the short steep hills. Hugging the coastline we were gratified to be able to see the beautiful sandy beaches and rugged rock outcrops, reminiscent of Corwall. We passed the golf course at Traigh and were surprised the golf balls would not stay airborne and end up in outer space the wind was so strong. We went to view the deepest fresh water lake in the UK at Loch Morar and also the water turbine generator. At this point I lost Bill as I took a photograph of the turbine and he went slightly off route to take another shot down the road. I thought he was in front of me but wondered how he had kept up such a good pace. I waited a while and then rang him but the signal was not good so went on to Mallaig and he eventually turned up when he smelt coffee and cake next to
the RNLI shop. Bill is still,suffering with his shoulder so we eventually tracked down a sports physiotherapist in Mallaig who arranged to give him the 'once over' at our digs after the visit to the Isle of Rum. Lucky Bill. The weather was supposed to be wet in the afternoon but fortunately it was bright and sunny. On our journey to Rum we saw a Navy Boat coasting down the bay, which I am sure brought on the rough sea which followed all the way to Rum. Any worse and the brown paper bags would have been called for. Rum, like Kerrera, has nor tarmacadam roads and is very hilly with just a few tracks between the massive hills. We went a couple of miles up one hill but all we saw was wild moorland so not wanting any more challenges for the sake of it we retraced our steps and had a look at Kinloch Castle, which was built in 1893 by none other than the Bullough family, which had the textile machinery manufacturing firm called Howard and Bullough of Accrington. This company no longer exists but was still quite a big business when I was an apprentice at Northrop loom manufacturers, Blackburn, in the 1960's. Rum is a walker and bird watching paradise and had quite a few visitors who seemed to be staying in the hostel at the rear of the Castle. At lunchtime we had found a nice B&B in the bay at Mallaig and is where the lady sports physio came to deal with Bill's shoulder on our return. I don't know if I should have done but I left them to it in the bedroom - sorry Val.
Today we devised a plan to save us retracing our steps on Uist and Skye by waiting another day in Barra and then taking a ferry direct to Oban. So whilst our last days will be the same we will have a few accommodation changes before then. This has the advantage of us having to do the impossible task of cycling with heavy panniers for 6 hours between ferries at 13mph, most likely into a headwind. Our Plan B was to catch a bus but Plan C is better.
Well! now we have done 14 islands and racking them up slowly. We will have a mad rush in a week's time when we do about 9 in one day. Let us hope the good weather stays but according to the ferry steward Sunday is going to be Gale Force again. I have just checked again and it is giving 28mph South Westerly winds and heavy rain. At least the wind will be behind us and we will be across the water to Skye on Sat evening, but not good at all.
Somebody has to do it.
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