From Kingussie to Mallaig

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18th Jan 2022

From Kingussie to Mallaig

I let Claire lie in until 7:30. She's a lucky girl.

Today was a travelling day so of course we wanted to squeeze in as much as possible before we ensconced ourselves in our new accommodation.

I let Claire have some breakfast and then we packed the car and drove about 200m to a car park. Well it would have been 200m if I hadn’t missed the huge sign, but that’s by the by. The car park had some clean loos and a map of all the walks in the area. I’d already decided on one last night that took us to a peak with a chance of seeing red squirrels so we headed out on that one.

The route turned out to have many things that people go on walks for: woods, rivers, mountains, a loch, fantastic views, snow-topped peaks, babbling brooks, the chance of wildlife etc. We headed steadily uphill, well we were going to a peak after all. If I had any internet here I could look up what it was called! It became with C and sounded a bit like Creag or something.

Later note: I took a picture of the sign to aid us on our way and, looking at it now, it was called Creag Bheag. The loch I will mention soon is called Loch Gynack.

At the peak was a cairn and we both had our pictures taken by it as well as taking pictures from it it and with it and near it. Claire used a variety of lenses and cameras to do this and, before we realised, we’d been up there for four months and it was getting a bit nippy.

There wasn’t any snow up there but the puddles had frozen over and the wind got a bit bitey after the first few days. The cold had hardened the mud and make it easier to walk as otherwise it would have been quite boggy in places. This would have made it rather tricky on the way down. Most of the paths were well signposted and, somehow, where we weren’t sure, we always guessed right….I mean we worked it out using our brains and stuff…..well just me obviously…..

We only met two lots of people and one lot were from Telford, not too far away from where we’re from. They seemed to have stronger knees than me so we let them pass on what was quite a steep descent.

We then joined another trail as the previous one headed to another town. This one took us past a golf course but, as there was nobody playing, I was unable to shout abuse at them. I’m not sure if this course was owned by Trump (probably not, as it wasn’t coated in gaudy gold) or I would have dumped in as many holes as I could.

Onwards ,and we joined yet another trail which eventually led us back to Kingussie. If you’re in the area and up for a bit of a hike I’d recommend you take one. And not just because you can hit the goals on your watch quite easily….

We then headed to some barracks that had been recommended to us by the woman at our accommodation. These were Jacobean and had been built in the 17th Century and only a couple of miles from Kingussie. Free to get in and with no other visitors it was my sort of place. In England it would be at least a tenner with a free punch in the face at the overpriced gift shop.

Anyway, quite a lot of the buildings are still standing and there are signs explaining all about it. It was windier than Claire after a vegan haggis up there but worth a quick visit if you’re passing.

Onto Mallaig. And nuts to Google maps. Quite why we were directed on a twenty minute journey to pass through Kingussie we have no idea as it had taken about 5 minutes from the other way, but pass through Kingussie we did. The rain set in as well but hey, we were travelling and not actually getting wet ourselves.

It took about 2 1/2 hours to get to Mallaig and there was some potentially fabulous scenery along the way. I say potentially as the skies were grey and everything was murky and dark. There were definitely some stunning show-capped mountain peaks though

We arrived at the Mallaig ferry terminal at 4pm. Booking beforehand had been impossible as they seem to change their minds about sailings and hence the timetables are far from clear. The office was open so we parked up and walked back…..to find the office had closed at 4.

We found another ferry office that went where we didn’t want to go but thought we’d ask anyway. They have cancelled all crossings for tomorrow (due to impending bad weather) but we have the potential of going with them on Thursday if the Small Islands don’t pan out.

We nipped into the Co-op to get some supplies and headed to The Wee Lodge. Claire calls it glamping and maybe she’s right. I have no idea what glamping entails but it is really nice. It’s a wooden hut in the middle of nowhere but we have fridge, hobs, shower etc. Apparently we have wonderful views over Loch Morar but we’ll have to check that out tomorrow.

There is also no phone service let alone any internet and it is a bit disorientating not being able to do simple things like check tomorrow’s weather etc. I know that’s how it was growing up but you kinda get used to it.

I cooked up some vegan haggis…..and I can picture my Father-in-Law’s teeth gnashing at that statement! We had some tatties with it but green beans instead of neeps: close but no cigar.

So what have I forgotten? Ah yes, as we left the golf course and entered a caravan park we saw a red squirrel! As we drove along a single-track lane to get to our lodge we saw three deer, two of which ran in front of the car. This was quite a momentous occasion for Claire as it was the first time there had been a ‘look out for deer sign’ and then they’d actually crossed in front of her. She’s had quite the day.

More stuff I forgot earlier…..please insert it wherever you want……as we walked down from the cairn we heard some shooting. We both ducked, returned fire, and wiped out quite a few Alpha Men Assembling. Sadly only the first bit of this is true.

So, as we’re walking through the golf course we are passed by some toffs in murdering gear with dogs trained to collect their innocent prey. I realised too late again to shout abuse.

I think that’s everything now but, thanks to the dearth of internet, I still have a couple of days to edit this!

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