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Published: March 1st 2017
We are settling in nicely to the routine of lying in in the morning, making a leisurely breakfast, planning the day out and just meandering. It is very different to being in Suzy . For a start nothing is to hand. We have a well equiped kitchen but it's not Suzy's kitchen and I find myself opening drawer after drawer and cupboard after cupboard to locate what item I need. We love the log burner and enjoy sitting in front of it at night as the wind howls outside and the rain lashes the cottage without pausing for breath . We like the comfortable bed with its thick warm duvet but it does feel rather odd compared to our Duvalays and we spend a lot of time of the road going back and to over the same ground. The A30 has become a favourite stamping ground. We either go up north on it or down south. Today we were heading down south towards the tip of England. Our destination the little village of Marazion. I wondered if I would recognise it . Had it changed much in 30 years? Would the shops be the same? We were soon to find out.
The weather has still not been kind to us . In Suzy we probably would have given up the ghost and moved on in search of some better weather. In our cottage we were stuck. We had paid for a week so a week we would stay. We could be in worse places than this part of England. The drive to Marazion took around 45 minutes and we passed through the villages with Z's in their names.
Arriving at Marazion it immediately brought back memories as I was taken back all those years . To camping in remote spots , to buying a new larger tent and it taking up so much room in the Mini. To upgrading sleeping arrangements and cooking. Looking at the castle sitting on its tidal island in the middle of the rough sea it brought back so many memories. It looked the same. Parking was not though. At my last visit we could park alongside the road for free. Now there was a blockade at each end of the area and humped pavements preventing all but a four x four access. The car park up the road nearer to the town was still
there and luckily out of season in the winter months parking was empty and free.
The town looked empty and much the same as I remembered . Out of season many of the shops were closed and locked and would only open next month after Easter. Cafes were bolted so we headed for the Godolphin Arms. The Godolphins were one of the local big wigs and owned much of the land down this way. The pub had changed out of all recognition. With the kids we sat outside in the cold in the back yard . A bit neglected and unwanted. If we were lucky enough we were allowed in with the kids as long as we ate . Now it is chic. White walled quite impersonal in a way but yet welcoming. Loads of space , tables galore and views of the mount across Mounts Bay. We just ordered a coffee and toast and sat waiting for the tide to go out.
The reason we were waiting becomes clear when you realise that there are only two ways to get across the bay The first is the boat the St Michaels Mount an amphibious vehicle that floats
on the water and then its wheels allow it to drive up the beach. We were going to get on this but were told that the first commercial trip would not be until 10. The tide goes out at 10.05 so we decided to walk across the causeway in exactly the same way as pilgrims did in the past.
As we supped our coffees little by little the causeway came into view snaking across the bay . We could see the other side dry and our side was dry too but the middle was still submerged . Finishing the coffee we headed out and gingerly set off across the water . It was fine for the first few minutes but after a while the wind whipped up the sea and it came back over the causeway soaking our trainers and going through to our socks wetting our feet. Grinning and bearing it we just carried on with true brit grit . Feet wet we arrived at the other side in time to pick up our tickets and wait for the 10.30 tour. About 24 go on each tour and by 10.30 there were certainly more than 24 waiting. We
were divided into two groups. 1 - 24 in the first group and the rest waiting for the next guide . I hear you saying it - guided tour what are we playing at? The Mount does not open for another few weeks so this was the only way of seeing inside .
We walked with our guide to our first stopping place where she proceeded to tell us about the rich history of the mount. Bronze and Iron age man had been here. The Romans had been here. It was a place of great importance as a port long before it became a place of pilgrimage. The Abbots of Glastonbury had set up creating an identity for the place around the cult of St Michael the patron saint of high places. A vision of the said saint had been seen and this brought pilgrims scurrying to the mount. Of course with this money poured in. Our guide continued her story telling us about the monastic buildings that were built during the 12th century and in 1275 an earthquake destroyed the original priory church which was later rebuilt and is still used today. She explained how the mount had
been captured in 1193 by Sir Henry de la Pomeroy on behalf of Prince John and subsequently John De Vere the 13th Earl of Oxford captured it during a siege which lasted 23 weeks.between 1473 and 1474.
Having imparted this knowledge to us she told us that by the time we got to the top we would understand the odd nature of the building work of the castle. We moved on to the well where she told us the story of the Cornish Giant and how he was killed and his heart thrown up the hill. Now a fossilized stone the heart is set in the path . By this time as she started to tell us about the occupation of Perkin Warbeck who occupied the Mount in 1497 the next party had just come around the corner and we tagging on our heels.Either she was being incredibly slow or the group behind us were not getting the same information.
Up and up we climbed until we arrived on the top terrace with its fantastic views of Marazion and nearby Penzance. We had lost our taggers on. She told us about the cannons which were salvaged from a
ship that shipwrecked off the beach nearby and then took us inside the castle and out of the howling gale.
Our first room was being painted and our guide told us about the families coat of arms which contained symbols of coins denoting trustworthiness. She took us to the next room where there was a clock which showed the tides . Not much use for one of the St Aubyn family who rode his horse across the causeway , got caught out by the tide and drowned. She showed us the desk which is taken apart into three pieces and carried across quarterly to the Godolphin Arms where the estate collects rents before it is dismantled again and carried back. She mentioned the lord who had three mistresses and 15 children before we moved on to the Chevy Chase room. Loved by Americans it tells the story of the Chevy Chase Hunt, Washington has a suburb called Chevy Chase and the actor named himself after the event. Well at least I think she said Washington as half an hour had passed by and my eyes were getting glazed by the facts and figures . Too many I thought as
she told us of the songs that were sung about the Chevy Chase in English pubs. Through various other rooms with paintings, plasterwork ceilings and coats of arms. Tables set up for dinner , china and porcelain. Out to the open air and into the chapel. The door was locked and our guide had to call up reinforcements. As she waited she told us of a family member who fell off the balcony broke her back and legs. She invited us to look over the balcony to the sub tropical gardens below. Inside the church was fairly interesting with Anchorite cell, some nice stained glass depicting St Michael. We were told that you can get married here but only if you are a family member or have worked for the estate for years.
Outside again on the roof. Lord and Lady live downstairs . They have five floors built into a new part of the castle we cannot see. Inside again - over an hour has passed and still we wander from room to room. The map room , the long corridor which once was the monks cloisters. The old tramway still used for deliveries today. Home deliveries took
on a whole new meaning. Into the blue drawing room. The room the ladies withdrew to as the men played billiards and smoked their pipes. The blue room was dainty with blue walls and pretty white plasterwork known as the Strawberry style after London fashion of the day. Queen Victoria had called to visit .Imagine the scene - the royal yacht is sailing past. Queen Victoria shouts Albert - Stop the boat I want to get off . See that castle - who owns it ? I am going visiting and visit it she did. Sadly the Lord and Lady were out and Victoria and Albert were given a guided tour by the cook who gave them a cup of tea. Following this years later our Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh called round and were entertained in the Blue Room. The last royal visitors were Prince Charles and Camilla . They hope that Will and his wife will follow suit. Not being royalists we sort of curled our noses up at this one.
Finally after one hour and a half we escaped and walked back down the castle path to the causeway battling with the wind and rain
again. Lunch was spent in the Godolphin Arms - Glenn ate a rather nicely presented grilled chicken salad , I chose the risotto with pea shoots . 10/10 for both meals . The final part of the day was spent running full pelt back to the car. First the rain started to fall. not too fast at first but gradually it got worse . By the time we arrived at the car we were both soaked . Our trousers sticking to us . Two wet and soggy human beings pondered on how much we wished we had parked closer and perhaps if the guide has knocked half an hour off the tour we would not have got soaked . Having said that it was still a good day and no doubt we learned more about the castle than we would have done had we wandered around it on our own.
Half way through the holiday - still more to do . Tomorrow we go in search of King Arthur and Tintagel and then a visit to Lanhydrock the home of the Robartes farmily. After that who knows? All I know is we still have not had a cornish pasty - an oggie nor have had any wine. We still have not got down to the beach at Porth. With only a few more days left we really have to get a move on or we will miss the other things we need to see.
Clowance well that comes up in the Poldark novels . The name chosen for Ross and Demelzas daughter . Clarence that's a boys name said Judd Paynter. So where did it come from? Where did Winston Graham conjure it up from? It is the name of the house that the St Aubyns lived in before they moved to St Michaels Mount . Now I know .
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