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Published: September 21st 2017
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My wake up call this morning wasn't the buzz of my alarm, or the peal of the church bells. This mornings wake up was the rapid clop of hooves, and ring of steel rims on pavement, as a horse and cart galloped through town at 5:30am.
Anticipating another day of the short and steep, I was a little less than bubbly in my morning preparation. Panniers packed and bike loaded, I was out the door. Newquay, my destination was 100 km off, and slow climbs were to be anticipated.
As it was Sunday, the Inn owner had advised that restuarants along the way would most likely be closed and had prepared four sandwiches for me the night before (@ £2 per). Sandwiches to be left outside my room door. Upon my return from a village saunter, my package was found by my door. Ham & cheese.. fine, ...onions and pickles?... not too sure about. No accessorizing UK sandwiches... butter, contents as was described previously, no greenery, no tomato, no condiments.
Prior issues with my GPS seemed to be resolved, and the day was sunny and the perfect temperature for cycling .... started fresh, but not too fresh.
The ride in the rolling hills was glorious. Where were these challenging hills today? A few time, I glimpsed a seaside town and the sea in the distance. I had thought of shortening the route and bypassing Bude, as hills and distance riding didn't partner well. I left Bude on my visit list and would modify my end destination, if needed, as the next days ride was planned to be shorter.
The ride into Bude was designated trails (abandon rail line) and was busy with walkers, hikers and bikers. I did come across a burly gentleman on his giant kick scooter, who was out running his dog. He was moving along quiet rapidly, legs kicking high, kilt in full motion.
Once past Bude, it was a scenic rolling coastal trail, picturesque and busy with traffic and tour buses. I stopped often to snap photos of the coastline.
Then I hit the deep descent along the coast at Millook Haven, and realized what was to come. Now, my excuse for pushing the bike up the last 2/3rds of the ascent was to preserve the chain (snapped once already) plus, ...if I can walk it faster than I can
cycle it, then do so and also, ...if the spandex clad, free of baggage boys were having to fight their way up...etc. An older gent in a passing car reassured me he would do the same.
Once away from the coast, it was (thankfully) rolling hills that settled in to what appear to be flat communal grazing land, with scattered hillocks (it's a word) in the distance. It was actually an abandoned airfield, now used for grazing (sheep, ponies, quad strattling herders), model aircraft, and other uses. Very, very nice riding. I stopped to finish up my sandwiches (not quite true for the onion and pickle, as that became sheep fodder). A cyclist ambled up and stopped to talk to me. He was out for a Sunday cycle and was promotiing alternative energy and sustainability along the way. We discuss those topics, and moved on to other subjects, and I eventually move on also. All the while, absorbing the sunshine and the flatness that the airfield had to offer.
Into some more timid hills, and then onto the rail trail that runs in the Padstow area. Here, trailside, I stopped for a pannini, salad, and smoothie at the Snail's Pace Cafe. Then back to hills, but bearable ones.
Tonight was going to be campings again, ...finally. Once I found my way to Newquay, I headed for the campground, which was a half-kilometer roll down a side lane. At one crossroad, I saw the sign for the campground and noted, with mild concern, that it was open to couples and families only. The reception was closed (it was 5pm?) and was not open again till 9am. I thought about wild camping in one of the available spaces, but the couples and families were eyeing me suspiciously from their picture windowed holiday homes. I decided I didn't need to be rousted at 1 am by the couples constabulary.
I headed for the more expensive holiday park, seen at at the top of the road coming in. Reception open, ...looking good. But again, couples only, or families. I tried explaining I had left my significant other on the road a-ways back, and had gone ahead to set up camp. They didn't buy that. I was, apologetically, directed to other possibly less discretionary facilities scattered elsewhere.
Decision time... cell phone... Air B & B, or Expedia. My B & B in Newquay was quiet nice, althought the owners apprentice was unsure if a room was available (I was travelling faster than the Expedia confirmation).
Finally settled in, I headed for the Co-Op for microwavables and moisture (avec alcohol). I decided a sink laundry was a necessity and, after wringing everyrthing out, I bacon wrapped the towel heater coils with socks and various other articles of clothing.
Then, conversation with the apprentice (owner's partner, and very friendly and accommodating), a short walk to the waterfront cliffs, a cliffside sitdown with my Co-Op coffee, sunset over the Newquay horizon, and then I was off to bed.
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