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Published: September 21st 2017
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Up early today, even though it's only 70km to St. Ives, but I'm still anticipating the dreaded Cornish hills to slow my progress and, as I couldn't contact them on a Sunday, I had to contact the railway to book my bike and myself for my return to Newcastle.
I checked my overnight laundry drying system and all seems peachy. Thank goodness for heated towel racks. Socks rolled, folded and stowed.
I went with the simple B & B breakfast option of cereals, toast and yogurt, and the B & B owner (upon her return from shopping), provided a few sweet buns for the road.
I returned to my room to call CrossCountry Rail to confirm if my bike booking request had been approved and was advised there were no bike spaces available for my preferred time. I was able to get the following day, but at twice the cost. I accepted this, as the logistics and cost of couriering the bike would be onerous. This would require an extra night in Penzance also. Oh well, more tourist time for me.
The day had a sunny start, with some threatening clouds in the distance. My route out
of Newquay had been revised, as I was not at the intended campground, but at a B & B. Initially, my GPS was showing my routing backward (my recent modifications, possibly), but without the ability to correct it on route, I just ignored the constant suggestions to u-turn, and I followed the on-screen track in reverse. Mysteriously, the tracking corrected itself about 20 kms on.
Cycling wise, there were a few good hills to start, and then they became relatively mild and pleasant. Surprisingly, I made my first major town, Truro, for lunch... and I hadn't even been rain on,... yet.
A walk and leg stretch in Truro's downtown took me to an outside cafe where a coffee, a smoothie, and a panini were consumed.
Leaving Truro, I established and achieved one of my goals for the day, which was was beating the lady with the shopping bag to the top of the steep hill exiting Truro. I have often been grateful that I had switch out my rear cassette for one with a mega gear range. Although, it can reduce your speed to the equivalent of less than a walking pace, and it requires some concentration
to maintain balance (especially with a loaded bike).
A few steep climbs and I thought I was in for some hillyer territory, but then the route switched to duck ponds and, eventually, a repurposed rail line. I believe it was used for the copper mines, as the trail passed through remains of an earlier mining industry.
A few more twists and turns and I was at the junction where the route to St. Ives splits from the main cycle route.
Camping was on my mind again and I cycled the 2 kilometers, or so, out from St. Ives to the campground. I was met by a latched gate. The website said it operated from spring and into September. At the farmhouse bearing the same name, the answer was that it was dependant on weather and how busy they were. I guess busy they were not, possibly related to the recent weather.
Finding it quite easy to revert to B & B's, I check locally and nothing was to be had. Expedia pulled up expensive options, and I opted for the cheaper of the not so cheap. Again rationale at work.... I had come to see St. Ives, and a distant campground would have meant I may be leaving the area without actually seeing the reason I was in the area.
The hotel was reasonable in an accommodation sense, but was rather dated. A rather silly statement, considering this end of the world. Possibly "worn" is better suited. Anyway, ...nice room, and a beautiful view of one of the beaches below.
With my bike tucked in for the evening, I roamed the front streets and back streets, the harbour, and the adjacent parklands.
Food was on the fly, and I did pick up an overpriced Cornish Pasty (i.e. when in Rome) from one of the "best" Cornish Pasty shops, before the next "best"pasty shop, and across the street from the other " best" pasty shops. This was supplemented by my Co-Op "roam the food aisle" ritual.
Settling in my hotel room with my snacks and beer, I prepared for my final trek to Lands End. Prepared meaning watching a Big Bang rerun, and back to back Time Team episodes.
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