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Published: June 15th 2014
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June 9th -Pamplona to Ulterga
The walk out of Pamplona on the crowded streets was long, noisy, busy but relatively flat. From Cizur Menor we climbed from 450m to 790m and then back down to Ulterga at 500m - this climbing is taking a toll on almost all our fellow pilgrims' feet and joints - Tanya and I are no exception - we are also in extreme heat / sun with little shade - we are melting all day long. At lease three of our starting group have opted for taxis / buses to skip a few stages to give their feet / joints a rest.
The views: fauna, insects and birds are again stunning and never cease to amaze. There are huge amounts of bees collecting nectar from the almond blossoms and other flowering trees and plants that surround the path. The path itself comes alive in the day with ants, snails, caterpillars, and beetles of every size, colour and shape. Tanya swears she hears snakes in the grasses, grains and hays that border the paths for miles on end. There are almond, pear, cherry, olive, plum, apple and dozens of other fruit /
nut bearing trees lining the sides of the path and huge vineyards are everywhere - no wonder such great tasting wine can be had with every meal as if it were water.
We walk to the peak of Alto de Perdon ( the Hill of Forgiveness) passing through the middle of lines of wind turbines (mills). As we ascend there are beautiful views back to Pamplona. As we descend we get clear views of what we can expect for the next few days. The descent is steep and covered with boulders - exact foot placement is required or a twisted ankle or worse is on the menu.
Today is a shortened walk - only about 16km - it feels like 30 adjusted for the heat and climb.
We called ahead and booked a private room in the Albergue - a little more expensive but worth it to get a good night's sleep. Mark and Debbie also got themselves a private room. Very few of the Albergues have this luxury - most have anywhere from 6 To 170 pilgrims in the same room. We arrived had a beer (or two with )
Hans, bibi, and a few others pilgrims before the headed onwards to the next village. We showered and did our nightly hand wash of today's sweat soaked clothes.
We ate a great pilgrim's stewl and went to bed early to get a good start on the next day. Another tough day - what was I expecting.
Until tomorrow......
Piss off of the day - the pounding sun that was a blessing on previous days has become enemy #1
Tip of the day - remember when your mom told you have on clean underwear at all times - on this trip clean, dry socks at all times are even more important.
Blessing of the day - the Spanish people all along the way whether they are villagers, shop owners, or running the hostels and Albergues are the nicest people I have ever met - you would think they would be sick of us pasty, sweaty pilgrims who have not taken the proper time to learn their language - but just the opposite - they invite us into their country, villages, homes and businesses with genuine kindness
and patience and never hesitate to wish us buen Camino with warmth and often a smile - never a smirk. What have they figured out that most of North Americans have not?
Funny event of the day - we met an American NATO ex-military dad walking with his two young sons. I was struggling with my 10k of weight I was carrying on my back - he was lugging 22k - including a tent and most of his young son's gear on his. We chatted with him and his boys for about half an hour. I asked him how to work through the foot pain - he said the answer is mountain candy - ibuprofen - I have been taking 2 - 6 every day since - mountain candy indeed.
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Sal & Al
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But still they lead me back...
Hola guys, my feet are tired just reading about all the walking and stress on your feet that you're having to endure. Love all the info and pics you are supplying. Happy Belated Father's Day Keith. Hope you got a bit spoiled yesterday! Hang in there you two!