GR11 - Tavascan to Arinsal, 3 days, 550km done

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Thursday 18th August
Tavascan to Areu: camping pica d’estats
16km
8-14:30 with a few small breaks and 20mins lunch just after the top col

After topping up at the hotel’s breakfast we were back on the trail as the church bell chimed 8, and immediately began to climb. Twisting up through woodland we followed the rocky and rooty path as it steepened and levelled occasionally, as it thinned and widened, as it changed between forest track to forest road to boggy mud, as it tracked high across ridges, passed few streams, and introduced short moments of safety ropes again, as it past the small hamlet with orange lights we had spotted on the hillside the other night on the col, and as it eventually, after 4hours of climbing, opened up to a large flat grassy col.

During this climb, we met a couple of other walkers (one of course Dutch!) and exchanged plans, both walking much faster then us, and with one telling us a story from a guy he met now only a day behind, who turned out to be our Australian friend! Maybe we will meet him again soon. Anyways, after a lunch stop, and noticing how much colder the air now felt, we began the expected descent. Thankfully not so steep, the track continued to flow through woodland, zigzagging down (though no real water sources) past ancient moss covered trees and over forest roads, all the way down to Areu.

Reviewed as the best campsite in Catalonia, we checked into Camping pica d’estats and sat in their bar whilst the rain decided to briefly and lightly flow over us. Once showered and with our tent up, we headed into the town centre of Areu. A pretty place with some very old buildings now surrounded by newer ones, we noted the shop looked very small with not much in it (from through the window!) and was not open despite it saying it should be. The bar opposite was open though with a good selection of icecream and some tuck shop treats and fresh bread; who needs a shop?!

Back at the campsite, we agree it’s a nice site but maybe not enough to be called the best?! The campsite bar does do very good crepes though, and after enjoying them for pudding, we settled for an early night. Cue, kids running around, car doors opening and shutting and people walking so close to our tent that people tripped on our guide rope three times! We must of pitched in the wrong bit. Eventually though, it calmed and we drifted off to sleep.

Friday 19th August
Areu: camping pica d’estats to bothy called Refugio de Baiau
15km
8:15-16:00 with a few small breaks, 30mins at Refugio Vallferrera, 30mins at Pla de Baiau

Waking up a little grouchy after a later sleep then we would of liked, we hit the trail by 8am again. Initially on forest road, we followed it alongside the river with small ups and downs and even declined the offer of a lift by a passing car; I know it’s hard to believe but it’s true! We were glad we did as just after the offer, the trail comes off the road and heads up through windy woodland with the usual mix of rocks, roots and stones and a few boggy patches where possible streams might flow in rainier months.

Today’s official section ends at the Refugio Vallferrera, which we stopped at for a drink, but at only 3hours in and not needing the Refugio, we felt we could definitely do more. So we retraced our steps back to the trail and continued to follow it up as it got a little steeper and rockier. It also passes some pretty open areas and we met more cattle again and spotted several wild horses roaming in the distance down by the river which was nice to see; there’s not been masses of wildlife on this trail other then lots of insects.

After a lunch stop at the open area of Pla de Baiau, and with the sun still shining in a bright blue sky, we decided to keep on hiking, following the trail further up, getting steeper and rockier again, until we made it to the lakes and saw the famous tin hut Refugio standing small but proud on a mound between mountains. Topping up on water, we figured we could reach this little bothy refugio and decided there to stay or keep going.

A short and surprising scramble later (difficult with a water loaded backpack) we found ourselves standing next to the can and being impressed with the good condition it was in. Noting the time and weather, we thought we could maybe keep going and do the col, but then we saw the col and decided against it. They say it always looks worse then it is but the almost vertical, loose scree sliding, dusty path in the distance was something that could wait for tomorrow for sure.

Not long after deciding to stay, 4 other hikers turned up, 1 French, 1 Danish and 2 Australian with one of them being our previous mate! As expected, he caught up! A good catch up revealed he had got sick that morning we left each other at the campsite and so spent 3days off trail. He’d since met these other guys and they had been walking together since. Then another Australian arrived who again had been semi-walking with the others and so it was a fun evening of story telling. And finally we met some more English on the trail, two friends who bravely decided to continue past us and up and over the col; watching them, they made it successfully but it looked hard. Again though, that’s tomorrows challenge!

With three of the Australians still preferring their tent (the weather was lush and gave a gorgeous warm sunset) it ended up just being us and two others sleeping in the small 9-bedded tin can, which was fine by us, as we all drifted off.

Saturday 20th August
Refugio de Baiau to Arinsal: Hotel Patagonia
10km
8 - 13:30 with lots of short stops, 20mins at top of col, and 60mins at Refugio Comapedrosa

Unfortunately, it was a slightly restless night waking up needing a wee (the stars were amazing!) and Paul not feeling very well. Knowing the next town just over the col, and into Andorra, was a big one (relative to the small towns we’ve been going through) with a promising supermarket, Paul decided he felt ok enough to get there, where we could stop and see how we feel. The group of Ozzies and more left just before us, which was good as we could then follow them up and see how they got on.

This is another example of a ‘why did we decide to keep going’ moment as the cool morning air gave us a cold and hard start to a difficult incline. Rocks quickly turned into boulders as we slowly but steadily followed distant trail markers up and across past the lake and into the mountain. That vertical path we all saw yesterday and thought no way would the trail go there, was definitely the trail and suddenly in front of us. So it was not quite as vertical as looked from below, but was still very very steep and more importantly on loose scree and dirt that crumbled under foot. How on earth do we get up this without just sliding down it?! Thankfully, we saw a slightly more doable, tiny zigzag path just to the side on slightly larger pieces of scree.

Following this slowly, zigzagging where possible, the sliding trail just seemed to keep going but we eventually made it to the top and we’re greeted with an immense view; Spain to the right with the tiny tin hut looking so lonely on its mound in the distance, and Andorra on the left waiting for us to head down. The sun was also rising and had a warming glow across this stunning scene of mountains, valleys and lakes. Amazing.

Just on the left is also the highest mountain in Andorra, Coma Pedrosa, and looked very possible to get to relatively easily from here (as many hikers do and we think the Ozzie group must have gone) but we were happy enough with surviving the ascent to the col so followed the trail down into Andorra. Although still with scree and loose rocks, the path down was definitely less steep and felt much more manageable. As you pass the lake into the hidden valley it suddenly becomes much busier with many day hikers coming up from town or the Refugio maybe to hike the tallest mountain.

Reaching the Refugio Comapedrosa, we stopped for a rest and drink (as did so many others) and unfortunately, Paul was still not feeling great. With some free WiFi there, and knowing we were not likely to get much further, we managed to find and book into a hotel in Arinsal (the main town just down the valley). Still a little way away, and with some steep bits of descent, but a good goal to have in mind, as we continued on hiking steadily down. Although busier, it was a very pretty section following the river down pass bright red berry trees and lush green trees and bushes.

The last stretch was on easy forest track road too, and takes you past and in a tunnel through the avalanche wall of the town, which was pretty cool. Finding one of the first bars to sit down at, we were super excited and grateful for the easy English signage, beer other then larger and a whole veggie menu! Enjoying this for a while, Paul’s paracetamol began to wear off, so we then headed to our hotel, which unfortunately was back up some of the hill we had come down; Doh!

Settled in our fancy room now though, with toilet and shower to hand, we’re hoping a good nights rest will help and we’ll see if we need to stay another night or can keep walking tomorrow. For now though, we’ve made it to Andorra!; having hiked 550km which is 63% of the trail complete!

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