GR11 - Refugio Goriz to Parzan, 2days, 356km done!

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Thursday 4 August
Refugio Goriz to Bothy at La Larri
17km
7:15 - 19:15 with many many short breaks, and an hour at the last water source on the incline and first water source on the decline

For a first experience, Refugio Goriz did well! Apart from being super busy, it was well organised, clean, friendly, comfy and warm and despite one guy coughing a lot we slept pretty well. The dinner was great, buffet breakfast set us up well and the picnic lunch was pretty hefty. It was also great chatting to our American friend more and we met a Spanish guy who was hard of hearing and used sign language (albeit Spanish sign) who was fun to talk to; he’d got to Goriz in 9days! What a machine ?

Setting off between other groups we headed out early, knowing today was another big day; with a very much talked about horribly long and technical descent coming up. Starting well, we were feeling good and after reaching the first top (where you can chose the old
GR11 route which stays high but has bars and hooks to cross an exposed ridge) we agreed going down and back up seemed safer. We began to question this pretty quickly though as the ‘rock steps’ down were pretty steep with safety line to use, but I guess not as open and exposed as the other route (supposedly).

Carefully making our way down, we crossed a river and entered the tree line to be greeted with more spectacular views across the canyon region. However, eyes were pretty glued to the floor as we continued downwards to the lower river. Managing to hop our way over (rather then going further down to the bridge) we took a moment to appreciate not one, or two, but three immense waterfalls in view. What a sight enhanced by a water rainbow ?

First descent done, we now had a big old up again. Gradually making our way along the clear path over rough grass and mud and some rockier parts, we reached the last bit of flowing water in time for a lunch stop, with our American friend who was just finishing break there. Soon following him, we continued with the last bit of ascent which was surprisingly steep and really did take it out of me. Catching my breath at the top though, (I just can’t describe the views) my heart began to race again as I saw the next dreaded descent.

Mercifully, it was a descent that looks worse looking at it, and seems to not be so bad when actually on it. Pretty well way marked (you need to stop and keep checking though!) the trail starts off by dropping onto scree and rock, then crossing boulder field before becoming more of a loose dirt track again, plateauing briefly by a water pipe (cue break!), before descending into the tree line. The path almost becomes a mountain bike track from here for a while, which was fun, but then added in further tricky rock cliffs to scramble down, a few streams to cross, a couple of edgy safety wire parts all with roots and rocks to be wary of. We also had spots of rain begin (thankfully once we were below the tree line) as the clouds returned so we’re aware a storm was brewing.

It takes mega concentration and quickly tires the feet, legs and arms (at least ours-others seemed to be running down it!) to stay steady and not slip (I actually did like 3 times but all controlled with no injury-just one jammed walking pole) but, slowly and steadily, we made it; 4 hours of descending! Mental. Reaching the bottom (and not trusting it really was the bottom!) our search for a place for the night began. The marked campsite on Spanish maps did not seem to exist, the Refugio Pineta was full, and the parador only had its most expensive suit left (350 euro for one night!) This only meant one thing, now past 6pm with the clouds thickening and some rumbles of thunder, we had to fill our waters up from the river and keep on walking.

Up, up and up we went, one slow foot after the other (actually Paul was pretty speedy!) until we made it to a flatter area La Larri. Here we had marked as a place to camp but with the rain and storm due soon we found what was marked as a Refugio. Thankfully, we soon saw the bothy and headed over. Apparently it holds 4 people and there were already 4 people there! We had our tent though and, scoping out the other side, saw the other part of this bothy / barn used for cattle was just as sheltered and would fit our tent inside; perfect. Now we could stretch, cook, eat and safely watch the storm high above in the mountains as we drifted to sleep.

Friday 5 August
Bothy at La Larri to Parzan
16km
8 - 2:30pm with a couple short breaks, 20min stop at waterpoint before final ascent and 60min stop near bothy on descent

Treating ourselves to a lie in and not walking until 8am, we started off the day again with an immediate steep incline. Feeling achey, it took a while to warm up, but as the trees thinned and we reached higher ground we were warmed and sweating as normal. Grateful we had managed some of this climb yesterday, we still had more to go, but whilst some parts were steep, it felt more manageable and at a level you could get a rhythm going. A quick water stop at a cattle trough in a beautiful flattened valley and we were soon at the top of the last rocky ascent.

Knowing it was all downhill from here, (and a gentle, not so technical or steep downhill compared to yesterday) we were feeling good. Whilst there was a bit of rock stepping, the trail soon drops to a river and crosses a bridge (we think my towel got lost here , when I got my hat out, as I don’t seem to have it anymore!) to join a dirt road. From here, it was easy walking following it all the way along and down, with plenty of water spots, until it becomes tarmac road and zigzags the rest of the way. Taking a rest break in some shade, talking, practicing Spanish, bumping into the American again, and listening to music all helped the long road descent go by quicker.

It still takes its time though, and we were glad to be down by 2pm, as it was getting hotter again (particularly when walking on tarmac) with clouds appearing once more. Feeling tired, achey and needing to rest, (and sort my shoes out as they are starting to break!) but expecting and ready to find ourselves in a situation like yesterday, we hesitantly asked La Fuen Hostal (budget hotel) if they had any rooms available; and to our pleasant surprise they said yes!

Checked in, showered and washing sorted (an actual proper washing machine wash) we headed to the bar to relax. With beer and an actual vegetarian platter on the menu we were happy, especially as the rain began to pour and the thunder and lightning rumbled around us. Our American friend also decided to stay and join us for food which was fun as we chatted about the walk and home and family. The rain lessened a while later and so he continued on to find a spot to camp as we retired to our room where we swiftly fell alseep.

Saturday 6 August
Rest Day in Parzan
0km

An actual lie in (no alarm!) where we didn’t stir until past 9:30am was fabulous! Followed by a small and slow paced wonder around the small town and two of its three supermarkets (actual big shops with lots of tasty and useful things!) and then we soon found ourselves back at the bar with a vegetarian platter for lunch. This time we were joined by our original Dutch friend, who, having taken a couple days out to see friends earlier, had caught up with us. Again, we explored thoughts and emotions (fear!) over the recent few days and it was great to share stories and realise other people we met were the same people; all just hiking our own hikes and leapfrogging round each other. It’s weird how the same trail can be done so differently by different people yet oddly similar at the same time.

Anyways, she headed out to camp outside of town, and we enjoyed a few more hours of relaxing; a long stretch session, resupply shop, family calls and checking over things. Particularly nice as the thunder rolled in again. Unfortunately there is no travel towels here and, although surprisingly good walking shoes, none that are quite what I’d like / in my size. A little editing of the tape on my shoes will do for now though, as, hopefully, in 2-3 days time we’ll hit another small town where we can easily bus to a bigger town known to have outdoor gear shops where we can sort these bits out.

For now though, with 41% of the trail complete, I think the bar is calling again; got to grab those calories where you can right?! Ready to be back on trail tomorrow.

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