Advertisement
Published: October 2nd 2017
Geo: 42.5999, -5.57175
Sunday, May 29, Day 2, León. We are taking 3 days in León. I have a lot to catch up on, and my feet need the rest. Today was interesting. We needed to find a church with Mass, so thought the Cathedral would be a good choice. Santa Maria is a gorgeous French-style gothic cathedral built in the 13th century. I was really upset when we got there and learned there was no 11:00 Mass – I had lots of work to do! Then we remembered that it was the feast of Corpus Christi. We were wondering why there were hundreds of people gathered in the square in front - also dozens of little girls in white dresses with baskets of flower petals, a couple of bands and groups of men and women dressed in all sorts of costumes. Soon the Bishop emerged and placed the Blessed Sacrament in a large monstrance which was on a sort of platform to be carried by several men and women. We followed the procession through the old town, thinking it would be fun to walk along with everyone, but then really got into it as they stopped at several ancient churches to
pray and sing. I do wish I had learned better Spanish before we came! I think the procession was God's way of calming me down about losing "work time." The rest of the day was pretty laid back.
Monday, May 30, Day 3, León. Well, now I had to catch up on all the things I didn't do yesterday, including updating my website, so a work day. I was happy to stay inside all day while Charlie ran some errands (snacks, ibuprofen refill, ATM). We even ate in the albergue. This is a huge place – 4 floors of rooms. We're in a double room. Kind of reminds me of a dorm room. All rooms have a bathroom, even the 6 and 8 bunkbed rooms. The staff is very nice – they even wash and dry your clothes for free!
Tuesday, May 31 to Villar de Mazarife. This was the longest day we've done so far – 22 kms. I survived, my feet survived. We took an alternate route again that was supposed to avoid walking along a busy highway, but the alternate was also along a highway, only it wasn't busy. There were several small towns along
the way so we got frequent breaks. I'm tired, my feet are a little sore, but all in all a good day. 38430 steps! At a vegetarian albergue tonight – a teeny tiny private room with shared showers, but no place to change or hang your clothes, so they get wet if you're not careful. The food was really good – a vegetable paella – no shells to pick out! And yummy homemade crepes for dessert – definitely not the usual.
Wednesday June 1 to Hospital de Orbigo. Hmmmm. I shouldn't have said my feet did well yesterday. I developed a small painful blister on the bottom of my left foot today. A lousy place to have one. The walk today would have been easy otherwise, but a little boring. Lots of walking
on the highway today, not next to. Coming into Hospital de Orbigo we crossed a 19-span medieval bridge. We're staying at an albergue called Verde, which lots of people like. Nice gardens. It's another vegetarian place, but this time I wasn't crazy about the dinner. Curry – which I don't care for. I took a few bites and Charlie not only ate his and finished mine but got seconds. Also, dinner started late – 8:30, and the owner wanted to talk and entertain us, so we got to bed quite late for the Camino – almost 11:00 by the time we got ready for the next day. He insisted we all go out on the deck at the end of dinner and watch the sunset. As I looked down at people's feet more than 2/3rds had bandages on their feet – one woman's whole foot was covered. Ouch. My little blister was nothing, but these are (mostly) young folks who walk 25-30 kms. a day, every day. I wonder how much this will slow us down just when we were catching up on our schedule and increasing kms.
Thursday, June 2 to Astorga. 17 kms. Most interesting character today: We met a man walking in the opposite direction who stopped to see if I was okay (sitting on a rock resting my feet). He was from Gibraltar and had walked from there to Santiago. Now he was walking back along the Camino Frances to Rome, and then to Jerusalem. He gave me lots of foot advice, having had many blisters while in the British army
for years. His name was Mark Randall, and he was walking to raise money for 4 different charities. We also stopped at 'the oasis of fruit and refreshment' which has been run by David for several years. He lives there with his girlfriend and has all kinds of organic fruit juices, jams and fresh fruit available on a “donativo” basis, as well as places to sit and rest your feet. He is one of the “Camino characters” but we didn't get a chance to talk with him. He was nailing on a roof covering he was building against the adobe ruins. Astorga is a pretty mid-sized town. Wish we had more time to stay another day and see the sights.
Friday, June 3 to Santa Catalina de Somoza. Only 10 km today. That seemed prudent given that my blister is healing now. We left Astorga late – had to take a quick peek at the Cathedral and Gaudi's Episcopal Palace on the way out, as well as search for an ATM and talk to Correos (Spain's postal service) about transporting my back pack. We're pretty much off the Meseta now – lots of brush, getting a little hillier.
A gradual climb today – 100 meters – and hot, the upper 70's, a spring day in Texas but when you're walking uphill the heat wears you out. Tomorrow we start the climb to Cruz de Ferro. We need to start out earlier in the cool morning. We're at a nice albergue. When we look out the window we have a bird's eye view of the church tower with the stork's nest and 3 baby birds.
Saturday, June 4 to Foncebadon. We were up at 6 and after breakfast out the door before 7. It was a nice cool walk to Rabanal del Camino, at the foot of our upcoming climb. What a difference it makes walking when it's cool out. The climb up to Foncebadon was more gradual than I thought it would be, but by the last few kms. it was getting rocky and hot. We met a man dressed like a Knight on the side of the road. He was there with his 2 children (also dressed up) and falcon. He was raising money for juvenile cancer research. So we gave him a small donation and I got my picture taken with the falcon. We're in Forcebadon
– a formerly abandoned town that's been given new life by the Camino. It still looks like a bit of a ghost town. 18 kms. today, and no problems with my feet! We're just 2 kms. from Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) and a little bit more to the highest point of the Camino, Alto Altar Mayor (1,515 meters high). I definitely had more stamina on the climb than I've had with other “montes.” Maybe there's hope for me…
Sunday, June 5 to El Acebo. We made it to Cruz de Ferro. The tradition is to carry a stone from home and leave it at the foot of the cross, symbolically leaving behind any burdens you carry. For many it's a very emotional moment. We brought our small stone – a red, kind-of-heart-shaped rock – but neither one of us could come up with some burden we were leaving behind, so we said a prayer. I guess we're not ready to let go of our burdens??? Then on to the highest point of the Camino.
I expected some kind of marker but there was none, so I'm not even sure where it was. After that there is a steep rocky descent from 1,515 meters to 585 meters altitude in Molinaseca, over the space of 12 kms. We weren't going that far, but stopping ½ way down for the night. We had gotten advice to take the road instead of the Camino trail most of the way, but it was still very steep and rough on my knees. We spent the night at one of the best stays we've had – more like a B&B – lovely room, gorgeous views of the mountains, kind and friendly host. We took a short walk back up the hill to the upper part of town, and on the way back down I got a sharp shooting pain in my foot. Sigh. I'm exhausted, but ready to tackle the rest of the trip down the mountain tomorrow.
Monday, June 6 to Ponferrada. It seems like every time I make some progress I have a setback. The sharp pain got worse through the night and once more we decided to take a taxi - 16 km. into Ponferrada. We knew we would need to make up some time soon by skipping ahead by bus or taxi (or miss our
flight home) so now seemed like a good time. The trip in the taxi down the mountain was pretty harrowing. We passed many pilgrims on the way down who had opted for the “easier” highway. The road was steep and curvy, with no shoulders, and I held my breath as we rounded each curve hoping some poor pilgrim was not in our path. Ponferrada is a medium sized town of around 70,000. Its most famous landmark is the restored Templar Castle. After resting a few hours, we tried to tour it, but got there during siesta – maybe tomorrow. We have 2 days here. I don't much like the place we're staying in. It's more like a hotel, isolated from the Camino and too far from good food. Plus several things need fixing and the advertised AC does not come on until next month (we were told it's still spring here). And the internet connection is lousy. I can't get my Mary's Garden Patch orders in. Feeling out of sorts and looking forward to our rest day.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.146s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 5; qc: 45; dbt: 0.0492s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Brian&Jackie
non-member comment
Blessings Charlie & Mary, Thank you for your update! We love hearing about your ups and downs. This Saturday, June 11, is the feast day of St. Barnabas. We are praying to him for your intercession this day. He is "son of encouragement
" according to his name. I am praying that through his intercession you will know encouragement on your journey! Jacob & Regina open tonight in "Cheaper by the Dozen" for their 3 day/4 show run. Keep them in your prayers please for a show which glorifies and honors God and a healthy cast :-) Love and Prayers,Jackie & Brian PS Ran into Fr. Ed - he asked about you.