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Published: September 22nd 2018
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Last night ended with a recital by a French women’s choir after we had finished our meal. They sang traditional songs, and the harmonies from the 15 or so members was very moving. French people at the meal joined in and added to the emotion that we felt. I automatically thought of someone who would have loved it; sorry Sue, you had to be there.
Today we walked through rocky crevices, light filled valleys and oak lined tracks to arrive at Cizor Minor. I walked mainly with John from Colorado and Karem from Brazil. John and I share common views on many things so he was great to walk and talk with. Karem is a delightful young woman with a backpack as heavy as mine, and the shoulder and calf injuries to prove it. She claims her pack is full of her fears so I’m sure it will be lighter by Santiago. One, the unfamiliarity with shared rooms and bathrooms, is being addressed as I write. There’s not much privacy here and the sight of an elderly European man wandering around in loose fitting undies is probably not helping her cause. That’s European, not Australian.
I remembered the route
today and was able to avoid procrastinating on many forks in the road, searching for a tiny yellow arrow. We met a camera assistant who worked on the movie The Way and had a chat about the filming. He stayed in Spain after production had finished and now supports charities with fund raising. He told us Martin Sheen paid $15000 to have the Botefiumo swing in the Santiago Cathedral during filming. I think the church added a few zeros when the film star walked through the door.
Lunch was in Pamplona at the Plaza in front of the town hall. The town was in festive mode and the backpack became a battering ram as I deserted my normally impeccable manners ( excuse me, you say ) in order to pass through the crowd. The phone shop, the main objective for the day, closed at 2pm, 5 minutes before I arrived. Bloody siesta time.
John stayed in Pamplona for the night so Karem and I pressed on to Cizar Menor. It’s at the foot of the climb to Alto de Perdon and is a good place to start the next day. At Puente La Reina, my next stop, I
will Albergue it and K will have a stay at a hotel, so I could be alone again which I’m quite happy about. She’s great to walk with but my goal is to mostly walk alone. No doubt we’ll catch up down the track and share stories of each other’s journey. I think John will stay in the same place as me in Puente so I’ll hear all the tales of Pamplona. He’s a retired paramedic and handy to stay close too. I hope I never call on his skills.
I’ve developed a blister in my big toe and I’m trying to contain the damage under a Compeed. I walked in sandals today but will be back in the boots for tomorrow’s climb and descent towards Puente La Reina. It’s a 23 km day, allowing for a diversion to Eunate to check out the ancient hexagonal church, so hopefully it’s trouble free.
The pilgrims meal is at the local hotel tonight and after that it’s off to bed. I want to start walking at 6.30am tomorrow.
Day 3 is ticked off and after some pretty negative thoughts during the night - What the hell am I doing
this again for. Who else would put themselves through this pain - I took a few deep breaths, focused on the good times ahead, and moved forward to have a great day.
I had no fixed plans this morning but the right people come into your life and you combine to have a wonderful day.
Still miss everyone and the time difference is no good, but I’m fine and there’s always something happening; a new blister is just one example.
In 2 days time the temperature will drop 15 degrees so I’ll welcome that. It has been too hot.
Well, adios for now, Steve.
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