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Published: October 17th 2014
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The Way
Our path is directed by these markers as we look out to the cities we slowly make our way to. Viana
Our stay in Viana was a bit longer than expected but was much needed. It was healing time. It is truly amazing what the body can endure. In our 'healing' time we were able to enjoy a wonderful dinner out at a quiet little restaurant during the towns 'siesta' the first evening. Most Pilgram meals come with a good bottle of wine and it is much appreciated. Relax, sip some Vino and reflect. The evening was cool and the mattresses soft. Ahh. Our second day we explored the ruins in Viana, the beautiful Cathedral de Santa Maria. We were able to tag onto a school group that was taking a tour and it was most beautiful. We walked, rested and prepared a meal of chicken noodle soup (around 3 pm), bread and fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. The tomatoes were given to us by a local as we were walking into the city. Truly a gift, as we were craving some fresh veggies. Lots of bread, meat and cheese but our bodies were craving something fresh. The soup ended up feeding more their than just ourselves. In like fashion, the lovely Spanish couple shared their wine with us. This day
was also the Canadian Thanksgiving and was quite the production.
Around Euro-Dinnertime...about 8:00pm the hostel kitchen came alive with a cultural explosion. What can I bring to your Canada Thanksgiving? Adrian (from Malta), inquired. One table, full of Canadians, Americans, the Malta man and a couple Korean men. Meanwhile, the second table of 4 young women from Korea, a Spanish married couple in their 50's, Angie and a single Spanish woman, were preparing a traditional Spanish "Tortilla"...a large, dense omelette of eggs, potatoes and onions with sides of Korean Nori (seaweed) and white asparagus...a favorite in Spain. As always, there were multiple bottles of wine around the table. Rioja Vino is a favorite in this region. It is difficult to articulate the energy of camaraderie that arises between a group of tired pilgrims who feel a sense of fatigue, accomplishment, joy and frustration all at once. In short: it is a privilege to experience!
Antsy to get on the road again, we soaked up a good nights rest and awoke with the many other pilgrims before dawn. We are getting more adept at packing up each of our items, tending to our feet, downing the ibuprofen to head of
Iglesia De San Pedro
These were actually just ruins of the church... inflammation that is certain to come. We don our ponchos as it looks like it could rain, grab our trekking poles, and take off in the way of the yellow arrows and shells...
Navarette
A refreshing 21k day, our day of rest paid off. In higher spirits and eager to see Logroño, a larger city between our destinations, we kept a steady pace. Logroño had a big-city feel and was buzzing by the time we got there around 11am. Grabbing a breakfast of bocadillos (small baguette breakfast sandwiches) and a cafè con lechè, we were as perky as ever! The cathedral spires beckoned us and we crept around to the entrance. Pleased to find it open (and free), we strolled inside. It's difficult to wrap your head around how, from the 11th to 13th century, such structures with incredible detail could be accomplished. This cathedral held an original by Michaelangelo. The pictures say it all.
When we arrived to Navarette, we were greeted at the Albergue by an elderly woman bearing figs: it was a sign! Thrilled by the sweet fruit, we made our evening home. We decided to eat in tonight and went to the supermercado for
provisions. Back at the hostel, the single French woman, Kris, joined us and made a leek stir-fry that was so simple and delicious we're looking forward to making this again. The table was soon surrounded by two Spanish men, a Spanish woman, Kris and ourselves. We shared stories of our experiences and marveled at the history. The Spanish men were in true form, and had us laughing like crazy. Dinner was so enjoyable it was difficult to say goodnight, but we all knew we must start early.
Najera
On the road again. We got a late start in the drizzle...poncho weather, but it didn't dampen our spirits. We actually looked pretty comical. A short coffee break in Ventosa and then we were off again. The weather cleared and the rest of our trek to Najera was uneventful but beautiful. We arrived at the Albergue...only to wait in a substantial line. Nice place but our room with 2 bunk beds was pretty cramped. No complaints, was thankful for the comfortable beds sans bedbugs. After showering we walked around a bit and enjoyed watching the families in the plaza. The culture is so relaxed that the children play in and amongst
the shops and it seems they all look out for each other. Refreshing. You can't help but enjoy the laughter and the little voices of the children.
Ciruena
The trek to Ciruena led us through a ghost town suburb which shed light on the economic situation in Espana. As it turns out, Spanish banks also gave out loads of money to people during an economic boom and developers built suburbias reminiscent of American style cookie cutter homes all over the country. BUT when our economy tanked, the results in Spain were also dramatic. The blocks and blocks of new homes and apartment buildings are completely empty and the unemployment rate is high. El Camino is actually a good source of income for many who live a long the trail.
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