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Published: October 29th 2014
Today was a bus trip to the Costa da Morte, the Coast of Death. One theory for this name is that it was thought to be the end of the world. People thought the sun was gone in the west each day and was reborn in the east the next morning. Columbus found the world to be round and that theory was debunked.
Fortunately for us our bus pickup point was around the corner at the Plaza da Galicia, so after some breakfast we joined about another 12 people on the queue. Our bus was a large luxury vehicle so this was definitely easier than walking. Our guide was a young Spanish woman and after checking us on, we headed to our first destination, Negrario .
This is a small roman hamlet about 15 minutes from Santiago and we stopped for 20 minutes so people could look around and take pics. We chatted with two pilgrims who were walking to Finisterre and had stopped for a break. The woman was a real hippy looking lady, in her 60s I guess. She had travelled from Portugal and had also walked the Camino France. She was brightly dressed, had adorned her
pack with all manner of trinkets and was a very wiry, lean build; built for walking. Her companion was a 30 something Colombian fisherman who had lived in Santiago for a while and was convinced by this woman that the walk was a good idea for him. They had only made 12 kms the first day and the woman did mention to Sue that he was a slow walker. When they left she took off like a whippet while he strolled along behind.
Negrario is a lovely hamlet built around a river, and the bridge, buildings and river were lovely. Back on the bus, we were headed for the coast. We paused at a lookout high above the sea momentarily so people could take in the vista but I found the wind turbines surrounding us nearby far more interesting.
We then drove to the Cascada de Ezaro, the only river in Europe to flow into the sea directly from a waterfall. It was pretty interesting but my main aim of the trip was to visit Finisterre. This waterfall is incorporated with a hydro electricity plant, so the spaniards take their renewable energy very seriously.
The next stop
was the seaside hamlet of Muros where we stopped for 40 minutes. The local market was running along the side of the main road and we took advantage of it to stock up on a few local delicacies before boarding the bus for Finisterre. The drive was a pleasant run around the coastline through mainly deserted holiday villages. The scenery and beaches here would equal anything we have in Australia.
At Finisterre we went straight to the lighthouse where the extended Camino ends. There were pilgrims who had made the journey burning some clothes, as the ritual decrees, and others staring out to sea, pondering what they had achieved. I think it probably takes some time to come to the realisation of what has happened and how it impacts your life but it does alter some perceptions. Maybe for some it is just a great physical achievement but I found Finisterre to be an emotional experience and a little haunting.
So many people have done this walk; famous, poor, wealthy, holy, educated, male, female, the list goes on. I met many people on the Camino who have been high achievers, unemployed, retired, students and pretty average people like
A powerful image.
18pc of Spain's income comes from wind power, most being sold to France. They also provide 50pc of Spain's power.me, and we all walked as equals. In fact if you had a remedy for a problem the Camino throws up, you probably rose above the pack Regardless of who you are. Thinking about the walk and the people involved must make it a rare and special experience for all involved or you must be wandering along aimlessly, missing all the activity around you.
After Finisterre, we went to the village of Fisterre where we had a great seafood lunch of baby octopus, razor clams, prawns, barnacles, crabs, cockles and mussels. It was a bit different but the whole range of tastes was delicious. We then went to a bar for a nice cream and coffee and spotted Luis getting off a bus with others we recognised. He was walking to Finisterre, about 6kms, going back to Fisterre for the night and then walking to Muxia to complete his journey. It would have been special to stay the night and see the sunset over Finisterre and I wish I had but there's always next time.
Our next stop was Muxia, a rugged part of the coast first inhabited by monks. There is a big monastery at the waters
edge and it is quite isolated. Legend has it that Mary travelled to Muxia on a stone boat which ran aground and broke on the shore. Two parts of this boat are there today (this is a legend) and are said to have special powers. One has a large gap underneath and if you pass under it 9 times it can heal back and kidney problems. On the other hand, if your technique going under is poor, I could see it causing back and kidney problems.
After Muxia we started to go back to Santiago after a great day. It finished off a few Camino things for most people on the bus who were pilgrims and it was well worth seeing Finisterre for its historcal significance. It might be worth mentioning that when I refer to people as pilgrims, I intend no religious reference, although some people walk for that reason. It is just an historical term indicating that the individual is walking the Camino.
We arrived back quite late from our day out so we made some rolls for dinner and stayed in for the evening. Tomorrow is our last day in Spain so it's a bitter
sweet feeling. I loved this trip and will miss it all but there is more to come so two more sleeps and we'll be in Poland.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Fisterre
Now that is a lunch!!!