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For those of you who know me, it probably doesn't surprise you that I was packing pretty much up until the very last moment before heading to the airport in Kingston ?.... Cody, Craig and Gryphon were there to see me off and then, as Cody put it: "Dad, it's party time for the next 6 weeks" !
The flight from Toronto to Franfurt was the longest of the 3 flights, but for some reason, the last stretch from Frankfurt to Madrid felt like it took FOREVER (I think I was just getting tired by that point...). I have to admit that while I felt I did some decent planning for this trip (mostly in the "what do I need to take so that my pack doesn't weigh a ton" department), I kind of left the "how do I get from Madrid to St. Jean Pied-de-Port" dilemma to fate (or rather, "I'll just figure it's out when I get to Madrid - it can't be
that complicated"). Well, I sure underestimated that!
Even though I made sure that my pack was carry on size, airport security in Kingston would not let me take my hiking poles on the plane
Saying Goodbye
to my hubby, too .... and checked them as baggage through to Madrid. The one good thing about this was that while waiting in the baggage claim area, a really nice man from Norway struck up a conversation with me and helped me get some information about how best to get to France. A few things about Madrid - it's a beautiful city but very busy during rush hour (which was when I arrived). While many people speak English, I found very few who spoke it well and I was basically "lost" in the airport trying to figure out my next move. Luckily, my "new" Norwegian friend (whose name is "Kettle" - yes, like the thing that boils water...) suggested I share his cab with him and he would have the driver drop me off at Atocha Station as it is the larger train station in Madrid and would most likely be the best for my destination. Kettle even paid for the entire cab ride (30 euros which is about $42 Cdn) - he insisted as he was travelling on business - thank you to the government of Norway ?! Very kind and a much needed "perk" in a frustrating situation.
The Atocha Train
Madrid
Having dinner near Atocha train station. Station is absolutely beautiful, but HUGE and super busy! I felt like a rat in a maze and lost because of my lack of Spanish skills. It took me a lot of wandering and asking around until I figured out what I need to do to get to the start of the Camino in St. Jean. I am booked on a 7:35 a.m. train tomorrow morning from Madrid to Pamplona, and then a subsequent train to Irun. From Irun, I will take a smaller train a short distance across the border to France and St. Jean. If all goes as hoped, I should be in St. Jean by mid-afternoon tomorrow. I was also fortunate enough to meet a lovely woman from Ireland who just finished the Camino. She was very helpful and had some good tips about where (and where NOT) to stay.
I also thought it would be wise to stay in a hotel near the train station so that I could get there easily in the morning; only to find out that the hotels in the area average $150-$190 euros/night! I tried asking people where I could stay that wasn't crazy $$, but again, the language was
McD's in Madrid
My "elegant" dinner ..... a problem and I was preparing myself to "hang out" at the train station all night and catch some zzzz's sitting in a chair. I was feeling extremely worn out, hot, sweaty, thirsty and a little bummed; as well as wanting wifi to try and maybe find a less expensive hotel. The only place I saw that I knew had free wifi was a McDonalds and so my first meal in this incredible city was a chicken Caesar salad at McD's - how pathetic is that? We hardly ever go there when we are at home....
Anyway, I needed to find a pharmacy as my "cheater" glasses fell apart and I couldn't read any maps. A very helpful druggist sold me another pair of glasses and also told me there were a few hostels nearby. I asked at the closest one, and they only had 1 room left. The desk clerk wanted me to look at it first as he said it was one of their oldest rooms. I must say that my little room here in the Hostal Bueltais a little piece of heaven after a crazy long day. My room is clean, has its own bathroom, a
Camino Survival Gear ...
Contents of my pack (as shown in my little, comfortable room : ) fan, free wifi and a deadbolt - all for $32 euros. "Raul" at the desk said that I could even get a wake up call ( or rather, they come and knock on your door at the time you want to get up - sweet!). Well, I guess it's time for some shut eye.....Goodnight (or should I say "buenas noches" )?
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
You can take a bus directly from Pamlona to St Jean...
cheaper than the train. You should ask around when you get to Pamplona as there will be many pilgrims there to give you advice. You might even be able to share a taxi to St Jean. There is also a pilgrims' store in Pamplona... check out http://caminoteca.com/en/. You can also get immediate advice from the Facebook page of American Pilgrims on the Camino (APOC)...just ask the question and soon you'll get many replies. In the meantime you can read through questions other had. There probably is a Canadian Camino organization on FB, too.