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Published: September 13th 2010
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El Acebo - Last rays of sunset, a most moving moment.Leon to El Acebo: 110.3km (Total 637.8km) Days 29 to 33
Along the trail I met a young couple who had been travelling around for 2 years and were from Renmark in South Australia. They had some time left and thought, why not the ‘Camino’ walk. It so happens Greg knew the son of one of my best friends. The world is so small these days. It is amazing! We kept meeting each other along the trail for the rest of the Camino.
Well, due to my continuing feet issue, I decided to only walk 8-10km today so stopped in Virgen del Camino at about 9am. The Albergue would not open for many hours and I felt good. Also a local girl at an information booth stated there was an Albergue about 5-6km along the trail, so I continued. Big mistake.
As it turned out, I ended up walking for 25km of more along a desolated track that at one point I thought I was going the wrong way as I did not see anybody. My worry increased at Chozas de Abajo, a very empty town with not one about, and then I saw a pilgrim, following him to a little
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Leon: Magnificent Plaza Major. shop and rested soaking my feet in plastic bag with cold water. Had no choice but to continue to Vilar de Mazarife as there was no albergue here.
In Mazarife I shared a room with two young university students from Finland, Inka and Laura and also Andrea from France for the assistance. Laura had bad sunburn and very painful calf muscles, I taught them how to stretch their muscle and massage knots out - they were grateful. One of the nicest things about this town was meeting local Julio Perez and his family (daughter Marta, granddaughter Patricia and wife Obdulia), he is the curator of the church and gives a very welcoming and detailed history, also his love of the work he does is very apparent. Julio spends every morning from 10-2pm and 4-8pm in the church taking count of pilgrims. The alter is dedicated to the town’s patron St. James. A very friendly town.
Next I met up with Jean Claude from Belgium on way to Hospital de Orbigo, we shared our meals. The hospitalero was wonderful, so friendly and helpful, but what impressed me most was the atmosphere of the albergue. It was a Parish hostel situated on
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Leon to Mazarife - Plaza of San Marcos Church and Museum. the main street; its historic buildings were renovated by the German Confraternity (and named in honour of Karl Leisner a fellow German pilgrim), complete with very worn old stone floor and beautiful courtyard. The town also had a lot to offer. It has the 13th century medieval stone bridge, it is crossed by passing through the ‘Pass of honour’ - so named in honour of the famous jousting tournament that took place here in the Holy Year of 1434. During the June festivals, local dress up and re-enact horse and lance battles as the old noble knights have in the past. The bridge was built over and earlier Roman bridge which formed one of the great historical landmarks of the Camnio trail. It has the lovely and wide River Orbigo where many a local were fly fishing.
Walked with Ronald the following day, he is an engineer who works in metal projects in France. Roland stated that the Camino is to be enjoyed and to be, internal as well as external. Along the desolate, dry and hot trail we met a saviour couple, Nuria and David. Just before reaching the hill tops with Astorga views, this ex pilgrim couple were
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Leon to Mazarife - Flora and fauna. doing their bit to help current pilgrims by providing; shade, resting area, cool drinks and fresh food, cakes and nuts for a donation. They had left their stressful city jobs and now live in the little town of Santa Carolina; they come every day with their little Mini between the hours of - 10-12 to help pilgrims reach their goals.
Well refreshed we reached the Monuments at Cruceiro Santo Toribio, commemorating the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga - where looking back down towards Astorga, he fell to his knees in a final farewell when he was banished from the town.
In Astorga, we stayed in Albergue San Javier, a lovely historic building in the older part of town and very near the splendid 15th century Gothic Cathedral. The town also the pilgrim museum and I spent a few hours digesting the beauty inside and out of the Palacio Episcopal (Gaudi). Building began in 1889 and was build next to the old Roman Door complete with Roman stone walls on the right and stone angels to guard the grounds.
As Santiago gets closer I start to feel a ‘herd’ mentality in the pilgrims who seem to be racing to get
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Leon to Mazarife - Old building styles, utilising river rock. to the next alberge and getting up extra early in darkness. It is disappointing that many walk in the dark and can not understand what enjoyment there is doing so apart from waking other pilgrims in the process. The larger towns or cities tend to exhaust me with the hectic life.
The town of Rabanal del Camino with its lovely quiet and ancient local streets were more to my liking. In El Pilar Albergue, I met Esperanza, she lives in the albergue and is the mother of Hospitalera. Esperanza talked about the sadness in her life, she lost her son at age 44 to cancer of the liver and her daughter Isabel is getting too old and is not yet married. Her husband Serafino is unwell, on blood thinning medication and on insulin. I sat and listened to her story in the lovely quiet central courtyard of El Pilar.
Later pilgrims were invited to listen to the local German monks sing (Gregorian Chant & Vespers) in the currently being renovated Church of Santa Maria. Some history states the church may have been built by the Knights Templar around the 12th century.
Today I climbed up to the highest point
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Mozarife: Sunset. The Church is looked after by Julio Perez and his family, he is the curator of the church and gives a very welcoming and detailed history, also his love of the work he does is very apparent. I met his daughter Marta, grandaughter Patricia and wife Obdulia. (Pass of Irago) of the whole journey. The whole day was exiting starting with the lovely tranquil woodlands with oak and pine trees. Millions of wooden or other material crosses line the fence for many kilometres, including all along by the highway, now it includes mine. They are made of many materials but mostly wood and twigs. Not sure of its meaning but possibly a prayers to be answered.
The Turienzo Valley had wonderful views with the early morning light and then followed by a steep ascent Along Monte El Relleno. The abundance of flora with early morning dew along the steep track leading to Foncebadon was very enjoyable. There were restored Celtic huts at Foncebadon with ancient carvings on its doors and windows. There was an old wooden carved cross amongst the isolated little mountain hamlet. Foncebadon Albergue and shop was welcoming with a hot cup of chocolate.
Upon Crux de Ferro, I deposited my father’s stone amongst the many thousands before mine. This stone had special meaning to me as it came from my father's town, were I picked one from his favourite river bed the day we scattered his ashes in 1998.
Mount Cruz de Ferro or
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Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo - Two young students from Finland Inka and Laura, on the right is Andrea from France. Iron cross - 1,505mt above sea level. The iron cross stands on top of a very weathered wooden pole and overlooks the tranquil surrounding hill sides. Some of the mountain views along Punto Alto (1,515mt highest point) summit area were breathtaking. Jonah (Korean) shared the trail with me today. He has taken time out to review his life after 44 years as a government officer; he has 2 sons, daughter and 3 grandchildren. We met up during a few days then I lost track of him and never got his details. I hope he made it to Santiago.
Acebo rooftops were seen, but not before an extreme steep descent into the ancient town. The streets were gorgeously ancient looking. Next to the new Albergue (Apostol de Santiago) is the parish Church of San Miguel, it houses a statue of Santiago Peregrino and a magnificent ancient olive tree sits outside with some old stone walls amongst its base.
This little town was magical for me; it had a large wooden cross embedded on a concrete block. From this point one can see into the far lower distance the large town of Ponferrada. I stayed in this spot for several hours admiring
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Hospital de Orbigo - Old Roman stone bridge looking towards Puente. uente de Orbigo, 13th century medieval bride, built over and earlier Roman bridge which formed one of the great historical landmarks of the Camnio trail. On the far left one can see wheere today during the June festivals local dress up and re-enact horse and lance battles as the old noble knights have in the past. the tranquillity and wonderful scenery of the mountain ranges and valley of Ponferrada.
A magical moment happened when the sunset rays appeared overlooking the lower valley, one of the most special spot for me. The very last ray of sunset streaking and spreading across the land and onto the valley from the sky was a most moving moment.
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