Carrion de los Condes to Leon: 112.9 (Total 545km) Days 24 to28

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Carrion de los Condes to Leon: 112.9 (Total 545km) Days 24 to28
The first day on my very own, it felt strange and my mind wandered a lot in search of those elusive questions. First I tried to see a doctor but the clinic was closed so I continued walking. The heel and foot pain was now constant but eased as the day wore on. The walking along the mesata was difficult, the Calzada Romana or ‘shoed’ trails (roman laid stone roads) stretched for about 14km amongst the fertile lands full of wheat, corn, potatoes, peas capsicums and colourful wild flowers.
To finally reach Calzadilla de la Cueza with its welcoming cool and inviting swimming pool - here I soaked my very aching feet and swam in the cool waters - it felt like paradise, this oasis in the middle of the desert. Here I met Gorge from Navarra and Bob from the UK who has come for his 4th trip to walk the ‘meseta’.
Ledigos - met a local 83 year old widow, Julio. He had a few teeth left, a very welcoming smile, a good sense of humour and warm hands when he greeted me. He asked ‘Why are you walking so far? Is it a promise? The honest answer at this time was I did not know - but that there is a strong inner pull, a yearning, a compelling feeling to walk. Also met his neighbour Eugenio who had hunting dogs and a puppy. I took photographs and asked if he wanted one. He said many years ago a girl promised him one but never got it so, no. But when I was taking photos he placed himself in my line of view. I did post them to his neighbour, so I hope he got to see them too.
Terradillos de los Templarios brought me meet Pepe (Jose Maria), another 86 year old man who had been collecting honey; he takes care of maintenance of the Church Parrochial St. Tomas.
Stayed in San Nicolas del Real Camino, a lovely tiny town linked to the Templar Order and the Church is built with the local clay bricks. It had a very secluded and tranquil spot just down from the albergue where I took the time to relax, read and to find out why I was feeling upset.
Why am I walking? What am I searching for? What is driving me? For these answers I yearn.
This place eventually alleviated these sad feelings as I was able to think about anything and everything sitting in the shade and listening to the birds, wind and feeling warmer by the minute.
Along the long, hard, stony, dry and hot ‘senda’ trail I met a Danish elderly man; he was making several flower wreaths of various plants and leaving them along the trail. ‘These are beautiful! Why do you make them?’ I asked. ‘I am now alone, I come often, as I used to with my wife and because it makes me happy to see the joy in your face’.
Due to the continuous hot, flat and dry ‘senda’ I just passed through Sahagun, I did however stop in Sahagun, entered into the ‘Iglesia de la Trinidad with the pilgrim statue by its doors to get a stamp and information. One thing the ‘senda’ does is, it allows one time to think because the trails are so long.
Bercianos del Camino was a very welcoming sight as it was a very hot day, here; I could rest and cool off. The old albergue had a very tiny chapel with good acoustics, tow young shy Danish girls sang and many pilgrims came quietly to admire their voices. Pilgrims helped to make the shared dinner with previous day’s donations.
Mansillas de las Mulas was a very busy town. It still has a full protective stone wall surrounding the old city. The walls are several meters thick and are made with river (Rio Esla) stones. The towns name is translated as - meaning ‘Docile or Manageable Mules’.
The trail into Leon was a bit boring and was pleased to reach the Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajalas or Monasterio de Benedictinas. It is situated within the walls of the old city and next to the river cobble stoned paved Plaza Santa Maria and the 10th century Church of Our Lady of the Market or Nuestra Senora del Mercado. The entrance door, showing the Lions stained glass emblem. Pilgrims enter the city via Puerta Moneda with some stone wall remnants and narrow streets. Leon was once a Roman military garrison and a base for its VII Legion later it became the capital of the old kingdoms of Asturias and Leon. The city has remnants of its previous conqueres such as Visigoth, Moors and Christians. A magical old city with its magnificent Plaza Major, Casa de Botines Gaudi, neo Gothic architectural style (Museum), impressive 13th Century Gothic Cathedral situated in the Plaza Regla where the pilgrim trail leads.
I was lucky to witness the Corpus Christus Celebrations; about 50 strong men carry the very heavy Corpus Christus along the narrow streets, swaying to the music, while the town folk dress up in their traditional costumes and the town squares are transformed with colour.
Leon was wonderful and here I said my goodbyes to the French couple Patrick and Danielle.

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Photos

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Leon to Mazarife - Flora and fauna.

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Calzadilla de L Cuenza to San Nicolas del Real Camino - Fauna.

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Carrion de Los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza - Along the original 'shoed' trail, fauna and flora.

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Cueza - Albergue, cooling off in the refreshing pool during the hot afternoon with fellow pilgrims.

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San Nicolas del Real Camino to Bercianos del Real Camino - The trail now enters Province of Leon, a fertile land area.

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San Nicolas del Real Camino to Bercianos del Real Camino - Crossing the Rio Valderaduey with Ermita Virgen del Puente in the background. 12th century sanctuary which was the original pilgrim hospice long ago.

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San Nicolas del Real Camino to Bercianos del Real Camino - Sahagun, Typical mud and brick ancient homes

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San Nicolas del Real Camino to Bercianos del Real Camino - Sahagun, there are many crumbling ancient building to enjoy.

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Bercianos del Real Camino: Pilgrims watching the sunset.

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Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansillas de las Mulas: Sunrise

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Mansillas de las Mulas: Municipal Albergue, with its central patio full of vibrant colours.

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Mansillas de las Mulas to Leon: First views of Leon, but first there was a very steep and erroded desent.

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Leon: Outside Albergue Centro Convento Beneditinas. This albergue was run by Benedictine nuns, and were very strict with time. Situated next to Plaza Santa Maria.

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Leon: Corpus Christus Celebrations, about 50 strong men carry the very heavy Corpus Christus along the narrow streets, swaying to the music.

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Leon: Along Barrio Humedo or damp - relating to drinking, one can find their own bar.