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Published: August 22nd 2010
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Burgos Cathedral, western side off Santa Maria square.From Burgos it was farewell to my friend from here. I will be walking on my own from now on. So on wards westwards, one foot at a time.
I had 4 days rest for travelling to Madrid and returning to Burgos 19th June 2009 with two cousins who walked with me for a few days. It took most of the day to drive to Burgos, arriving at the albergue at 1020pm (closed at 1030). The hospitalero let us in stating we were taking the last couple of beds, but in fact there were more than 10 beds still available. Due to very noisy celebrations, sleep was difficult.
Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes: 87.2km (Total 432.1km) Days 20 to 23
Leaving Burgos, we came across literally full streets of discarded rubbish everywhere from the celebrations of the night. At Tarjados I met a pilgrim from the USA that also carried the Pilgrim FOFUM badge and I assisted with translating so she could get a bus.
Through Rabe de los Calzados we enjoyed the many lovely family and other crests upon the buildings. Overlooking Hornillos del Campo from the summit known as ‘Cuesta de Matamulos’ or Mule Killer Hill,
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Burgos to Hornillos del Camino - Arco San Martin, on the outskirts of the city gardens after leaving the old medieval city. we met a shepherd with many sheep and 3 very thirsty German shepherd dogs. The locals from Hornillos (ovens or kilns). The town used to be well known for its wines, although now there are no winiars as only 19 locals live here. The surrounding lands are scattered and full of underground wine cellar. ‘Hornillos’ name comes from mining materials and firing ceramic roof tiles.
I found my cousin crying upon the steps of the Church and next to the picturesque Hen Fountain or ‘Fuente del Gallo’. She was thinking of her mother who had died less than a year before.
The next day we enter the Meseta, which is a mostly long, flat and hot trail in the summers. We had a cool morning so it was pleasant and stopped to visit the ruins of Arch of San Anton, situated between Hontanas and Castrojerez. It has an albergue amongst the Gothic ruins that used to be an ancient convent.
In Castrojerez is a quiet little town with magnificent many ancient and well preserved castles, 8 ancient pilgrim hospitals, monasteries and churches that we have seen so far. It has a rich history of wars between the Moors and
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Burgos to Hornillos del Camino - House coat of arms along outskirts of the old medieval city. Christians. From the top of hill, by the ruins of the Castle the views are magnificent of the old town and a very distant countryside.
I spent most of the afternoon catching up with the locals like Senor Dionisio and Senora Brijida; they are rich in its town’s history and so eager to tell their stories. Pilgrims also enjoyed the towns Corpus Christos celebrations during the afternoon.
By this time of the trip I was getting quite a bit of feet and heel pains and got a massage from the hospitalera. I filled in for her for a few hours and massaged a German lady’s legs which were all bruised from an accident at home. Her name was Annie and was very grateful.
My cousins had offered to walk with me for a week; during the next day on our way to Fromista my ‘injury’ was getting worse and worse and I become emotional and began to question why I was doing this? Will I make it? Will I end up giving up? My cousins seem to be pushing me to go further (8km left) when I could not and decided to get a taxi in order to get to
Fromista. Fromista has the Iglesia de San Martin, Romanisque 11th century church. It contains over 300 external corbels, each carved with a different human or animal motifs. It also contains some of the best ancient water canals with lock gates.
In Fromista I met up with Annie the German lady and her companions Brigitte, and Margarite. She told me I was her Angel, who saved her life, she was extremely grateful for the leg massage I provided to her the previous afternoon.
We made a detour by car to see the famous VRO or Villa Romana La Olmeda, a magnificent complete roman village which was discovered by a farmer. It contains very large picture tiles and ingenious things like cooling and water systems. Excavations are continuing.
After lunch my cousins left me to go back home and I stayed in Carrion de los Condes Parroquial Albergue. The towns’ streets have a good medieval look and feel about them. The albergue is run by local nuns (hermanas Agustinas), who sang with us twice during the afternoon and evening. I assisted with translations again. They gave us two gifts to take, so that they would not add weight to our heavy packs,
they gave us a shining paper star, to remind us the community is thinking and praying for us and a blessing cross upon our forehead. They were wonderfully cheerful, very giving and genuinely nurturing; they were Maria, Maria Del Prado (played guitar) and Carmen. Our songs (to learn the outer and inner trail of our life and heart) brought deep feelings to most of us and some of us cried while singing. This afternoon was a very moving and emotional one.
Why am I walking? What am I searching for? What is driving me?
For these answers I yearn.
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