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Published: September 13th 2010
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La Faba to Triacastela - Southern hills, to the right is O'Cebreiro and Galician Border. First morning rays of sunshine kissing the mountain tips with life glowing warmth and colour.El Acebo to Sarria: 141km (Total 779.5km) Days 34 to 38
The trail was steep and rocky descending towards Puente. Just before arriving to Molinaseca, an old local man sat in the shade of a tree offering a straw bed for weary pilgrims with sore legs - he offered leg massages. Meruelo River as one enters Molinaseca, local farmers tended to their fresh produce by the rivers ledge. Stopped and relaxed in Casa Marcos coffee shop where they served Santiago Cake with your coffee, it was delicious. There was an abundance of flora and fauna along the trails, also a lot of vineyards on outskirts of Ponferrada.
My detour via Campos took me by the ancient Roman water cistern Fuente Romano, build as a clean source of drinking water near the River Bueza and later a protective structure was built to protect it, complete with olive shady trees and seats on the outside. The water is kept clear from external impurities and the little roof structure makes the ‘cave’ very cool on a hot day like today.
Ponferrada is a large modern city of about 60,000 people and has a lot to see in the old section of the city such
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La Faba to Triacastela - beautiful Valcarce valley. as the Castle of Templars which was built between the 12th and 15th Centuries. The templars stayed until around the year 1308. At present the old town streets are filled with colorful decorations in readiness for the festival of Templar’s, later this month. In the early morning start, I detoured back along old streets to see the reflections of the wet morning street lights and views of the magnificent Tower of the Clock dating to 16th Century. The truth is, I got the trail mixed up and headed back to the old city, this added an extra 2km which I did not need to add, but the views of the old city during the dawn were very much worth it.
Fuentes Nuevas had very good examples of ancient house building technique, showing materials and how it was used with mud. At some stage, a local woman who accompanied me along the streets while walking her regular morning walk in Camponaraya and then her friend joined us for about one hour. Passed Vineyard co operative, oldest in el Bierzo (Naraya Gran Bierzo, Valmagay) a sculpture dedicated to the pioneers who with their strength and vidion made their existence possible.
In Cacabelos
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El Acebo to Ponferrada -El Acebo - Last rays of sunset, a most moving moment. I stopped to rest and cool off by the River Cua, enjoyed a dip in the cool river and a tranquil lunch while watching a few rowers along the river.
On my way to Villafranca met a local woman just past the town of Pieros and bought a banana from her stand. Did not have to buy bananas, there were plenty of freshly cut cherry tree branches that were full of ripe cherries all along the trail; they were lovely; sweet, cool and juicy.
Villafranca del Bierzo, started its affiliations with the Camino Frances during the 11th century, containing the 12th century Romanisque Church of Santiago with its north door the Puerta de Perdon or Pardon door, it was a very humbling church where ancient pilgrims who could go no further to receive a pardon where given it here.
The old section of the town has many historic old buildings like: Iglesia de San Nicolas,Convento Divina Pastora, Monasterio de San Francisco, Iglesia Colegiata, Convento de San Jose, Convento de la Anunciada and 15th century Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses, with its beautiful turrets. Also the Plaza Major was so full of people relaxing al fresco in the afternoon; it had
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El Acebo to Ponferrada - Flora and Fauna a jovial festive feel about the town. It contains some of the most magnificent coat of arms all over town.
On the way to La Faba, along Pereje, where I had a coffee stop I met a Japanese pilgrim. She was quite young and did not tell her family where she was, I encouraged her to at least get in touch with them to let them know she was OK.
Just before Trabadelo the constant kilometres of concrete trails were hard on our feet; these trails were made to keep us away from the busy highways. From these trails there were views of Castillo Saracin from Vega de Valcarce. Once the turn off into the green forest area began into La Faba, this happened to be one of the most beautiful sections. The trail was steep and as it descended into the glorious and delightful thick woodlands of castanos or chestnut trees until you reach La Faba Albergue and Chapel or Iglesia San Andres which is next to the albergue.
We, the pilgrims rang the church bells to let people know it was mass time to surrounding areas. Inside Iglesia San Andres with local Franciscan priest Jose Manuel; we had
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El Acebo to Ponferrada - Flora and Fauna their washing of the feet ritual (as God showed compassion and acceptance to the most affected body part on the trail to Santiago de Compostela). Another lovely gesture of history to the pilgrims was the tradition of the Light of Peace (candle) representing unity of all nations and welcoming each other as the candle is passed to each pilgrim.
Leaving La Faba to Triacastela, I felt as in the last couple of days, very happy and content. This feeling intensified while the trail passed through the beautiful Valcarce valley. The views, while one looks back towards Faba, Castila y Leon were breathtaking as the colours changed with the dawn of light. During these first early morning hours there were the magnificent early morning rays of sunshine kissing the mountain tips with life glowing warmth and colour.
Southern hills, to the right are O'Cebreiro and Galician Border which is marked with a large significant stone Marker. At Galician border, pilgrims are notified that one is leaving Castilla y Leon province and entering the province of Galicia, province of Lugo). Galica is a land of green pastures grazed by sheep, cattle, pigs and the like, related to historic Celts of Ireland,
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El Acebo to Ponferrada - Campo. I detoured to see Campo's ancient Roman Water Fountain named Fountain, build as a clean source of drinking water near the River Bueza and later a protective structure complete with olive shady trees and seats on the outside. The water is kept clear from external impurities. a land of spiritual wealth, a land of rain and storms, of hot pot meals like ‘caldo Gallego’ and famous octopus dish ‘pulpo a la Gallega’.
O'Cebreiro contains some typical Palloza or traditional straw roof buildings of Galicia, these related to the Celts of west Ireland. The town has a very significant history related with its 9ths century (still original building) Church, the Iglesia de Santa Maria Real. Just a few minutes after leaving the town, a heavy and rapid fog ascended upon the trail, lasting for about 20 min that left very little room for visibility. The trail eventually came past the Pilgrim statue at Alto do San Rocque at 1270mt.
Along Hospital de la Condesa was a lovely track of dairy farming pastures, with lush green cool hill areas, often meeting local farmers walking their cows amongst the pilgrims. The trail then went into very steep ascend to Alto do Poio, that even the cyclists walked their bikes up. At the top of Alto do Poio, a hot chocolate and large bocadillo was ingested with great relieve and gusto and a well earned rest at 1330mt.
In route to Triacastela - A very old Chestnut tree, estimated
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El Acebo to Ponferrada - Street signs at 800 years old was situated just before the town, chestnut trees are very common along Galicia and are used with their food and sometimes drinks, but for me, I love them raw while they are crunchy and juice or roasted.
Triacastela is the town named as Three Castles; none are left apart from the coat of arms depicting three castles that is presently situated on the church front wall. The Parish is dedicated to Santiago and has an unusual 18th Century tower with the coat of arms of the 3 castles. Nearby there are limestone quarries that were used to build Santiago Cathedral. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much as they could up to Castenada and their kilns. During my brief stay, the whole town appeared to be under construction with dug up roads everywhere inn preparation for the following year 2010 being a Holy year or significance.
A pilgrim monument and poem are situated in Triacastila town square. It reads;
“If you think you are beat, you are. If you think you can't go on, you won't do it.
If you think you would like to win but can not, you will not conquer.
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El Acebo to Ponferrada - Ponferrada, New entrace to Castle of Templars, the templars stayed until around the year 1308. If you think you would lose, you have already lost and a lot of races have been lost without having been run.
A lot of cowards have haltered before their work has commenced.
Think big and your accomplishments will grow. Think small and you will remain in the rear.
Think that you can and you will. All is in our mental state because the battle of life
is not always won by the strongest or fasted man.
Late or later the man who wins is the one who believes he can do it.
Rudyard Kipling”.
Leaving Tracastila I soon caught up with an elderly man named Klaus from Germany. Eventually he talks and tells me he has walked well over 3,000 km since he lost his wife in 2002. Has a daughter from his previous marriage but does not have any communication with her or his grandchildren. Klaus used to work an Electrical Engineer where he built artificial upper limbs (arms and hands). He cut away some of my silicone implant to alleviate pressure on the heel painful area. Klaus decided to stay in Sarria for a few days.
The trail to Sarria was
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Ponferrada - Early morning street lights with views of Tower of the Clock dating to 16th Century. mostly forested woodlands along the trails that run along the right of the River Oribio. The trail came along an old stoned wall hut built using the large tree truck as part of a wall, complete with wooden benches inside.
Passing Renche, along the elevated trail, detailed views of the grand Monastery of Samos were beautiful amongst the sleepy town by the river Oribio. Monasterio de Samos stands majestically by the tranquil river river Oribio which feeds itself later into Rio Mino. In its heyday the Monastery housed several hundred monks; the current monks are still utilising fertile soils amongst its large areas of lands.
In Sarria I met some pilgrims with whom walked on and off for the rest of the trail; Angelica (Spain, Henry from S. Africa, & Maribel (Spain). Sarria is a busy town, has Celtic origins and has several churches, monasteries and a grand ancient main street which housed some wonderful restaurants where I tried great beef filets and chips. El Salvador Church situated at top of Rua Maior. We were lucky to get two of the last 4 bends that were left in the Municipal Albergue; where from here on pilgrims were given disposable sheets
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Ponferrada to Villafranca - Looking back at the sprawl of Ponferrada. and pillow cases.
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