It´s official. I´m not just a guiri on vacation here. I´ve gotten a Spanish hair cut, I´ve been to a Spanish dentist, and I´ve fled the city, as many Madrileños do, to the local countryside. My pequeña viaje began at the Madrid train station, Atocha Renfe after a late morning churro con chocolate and a fresh copy of Las Memorias de una Geisha in Español (has anyone noticed that I have a book fetish?) which I bought while prowling the street bookstalls near the Prado. AND, I can actually read this book, which is helping my Spanish immensely. I was charmed to find Renfe to be your classical old train station with high smoked glass windows and old brick construction (just like you expect to find in Europe). But Renfe has an exotic twist: as you
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