Day 50 Granada

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“… as I gently drove the ball past the close-in fieldsman to mid-on for an easy single it brought up the half century partnership …”

Yes, day 50 and what a day it was. A walking tour of the old city took us to places we would not have dreamed of going. The guide was informative, communicated with sincerity and passion that showed his genuine love for his city. From small squares bustling with people and traders, through little markets in narrow lanes, old churches and buildings, musicians, eating establishments of all sorts, views, the appearing and disappearing river, the walk had something for everyone.

Lunch for us was a renowned tapas restaurant, Las Manueles, where I let Jane order both the food and drinks. The result, apart from being ‘full’ … get to the hotel quick for a sleep … woke a little over an hour later, refreshed. Exactly what the doctor ordered.

We were picked up from our hotel at 8.10pm to be taken to a former cave but now a home, “Cuevas Los Tarantos”, part of the Sacromonce (Sacred Mountain), a Roman Gypsy area, high above the town, for drinks and a Zambra Flamenco style dance. Jane and I have prime position seats. We weren’t disappointed and revelled in the excitement exuded by the skill, energy and emotion of the 6 dancers, a singer and a guitarist of extraordinary skill.

The lights are low in the small, whitewashed cave. The guitarist plays quick, dramatic music on his guitar as dancers take turns on the hard floor. The women wear various coloured dresses flared at the calf, and the man wore black pants, shirt and jacket. They lift their arms above their heads, clapping and stomping their feet to the beat. The younger dancers are quicker, more powerful, but the older performers carry the undeniable weight of experience. The singer, a middle-aged man, has the audience in the palm of his hand from the sound of his voice.

There are maybe 50 people in the audience, most of them tourists, slowly sipping drinks. It’s warm in the room and a little smoky from the wood-burning stove in the next room. Some audience members shuffle in their seats, but most pay rapt attention to the dance. Not all of us can follow the story being told, especially those unfamiliar with this particular Romani brand of Spanish, but all of us in the room can feel the beat and the passion of the music. This was followed by apanoramic visit to the Mirador San Nicolas with wonderful views of the Alhambra. The route follows the narrow streets of the Albayzín. This former Arab quarter includes typical Carmens, private homes in Granada with terraces that overlook the Alhambra.

We arrive back in our room tired but having experienced an awesome night. The adventure continues in the morning.

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