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Europe » Russia » Siberia » Ulan-Ude October 10th 2006

Day 128, 6th October Ulan Ude - Ivolginsk - Datsan Was up early packing the bike, had breakfast with Scott and checked on the other guys, hangovers from hell had descended on them. At twelve we assembled at the Lenin head for a photoshoot that didn’t materialize - it’s a good job really considering the state we were in. Tobes looked as rough as hell and we had to wait another hour till he was ready, then, we were off, out of the city on an overcast day. As soon as we left the city we were surrounded by grasslands and rolling hills, it looked lovely. Some hilltops had radars on top of them, probably due to the close proximity of the border. Other hilltops were totally bare. On the far western side of the valley ... read more
Datsan Monastry entrance
Datsan Monastry - Lama
South of Datsan

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Ulan-Ude October 7th 2006

Day 125, 3rd October Ilbinka - Ulan Ude Today, personally for me, I’ve done 100 days cycling, and 25 days resting! That’s a lot of miles from Stoke on Trent, not just a trip to the shops. It was really cold last night and I awoke to a layer of ice on the inside of my tent and a damp sleeping bag. What the hell are we doing camping in the wilds of Siberia, as winter approaches with a vengeance. We took our time getting ready and waited for the rising sun to dary out our tents somewhat. Then set off for Ulan Ude in the bright sunlight. There was a huge uphill where I did something stupid. The others were up ahead, and when a slow truck laboured past me I tried to hold on ... read more
Freezing Night
Angarsk River
Lenin Zentack

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Ulan-Ude October 7th 2006

This morning we came to Lake Baikal. I think it was morning but somewhere between here and Moscow there is about a 5 hour time difference. With little to do other than sleep, read and play cribbage it’s hard to keep track. Fortunately for us we had Hilda who was constantly jotting notes on a flow chart of where and when we should be. After questioning her, I rightfully guessed she was a math teacher. Lake Baikal is the deepest lake in the world at a maximum depth of 1637 meters. This tranquil lake doted with the odd fisherman is the only thing to break up the monotony. We are about to turn south towards Mongolia and should reach the border in the late evening. Well we have reached the border of Mongolia. Sam asked the ... read more
Lake Baikal
Near Ulan Ude, Russia
Russia customs area - Mongolian border

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Krasnoyarsk October 6th 2006

Another day without a shower. The baby wipes are working ok but it is obvious that several of the other people in the train car don’t seem to care. The cabin next to us is a family with 2 young children. They have been great so far but I bet the parents are going crazy. Thankfully we bought several new books before we boarded because we are going through them quickly. Sam reads one a day. We are lucky that Sabrina has a couple of books in English that we can trade. In Moscow, Sam grabbed some peanut butter and Sabrina loves it. Maybe we can use it in the trade talks. The scenery is rather bare with miles of vast open land. Every now and then a small group of houses will pop up around ... read more
Near Krasnoyarsk, Russia
Near Krasnoyarsk, Russia
Scott @ Kansk station

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Omsk October 5th 2006

Sleeping has not been easy. Rock hard, small beds and a train conductor that drives like he has the hiccups does make a restful night. We use bottled water for brushing our teeth and wipe ourselves down with “baby wipes” to try stay clean and fresh. There appears to be a silent alarm that signals the 1st class people to dinner because twice a day a troop of them would come marching past. They must have been on a tour and paid heavily for the food that was not going to be missed. The rest of us in the economy section drink tea and eat noodles with content. The temperature has slowly been cooling and the landscape is becoming sparser as we head east into Siberia. Snow is starting to fall and collect on the train ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal October 5th 2006

Day 123, 1st October 2001 Murino - Tanhoj - Babuškin White Rabbits! Or, so they say in the part of England I come from for good luck on the first day of every month - we need it! Didn’t have too much of a brilliant sleep but was warm, though. Was up early, made a cuppa, and packed up. Rory and Tobes decided to try and make cheese on toast on an old piece of metal they found while I stood around getting cold, and then freezing cold! I told them I had to leave and made a move because I began to shiver uncontrollably. I left as it began to snow on Toby’y tent. The road was and the wind was slightly behind, and I made it to the first café after about 10 miles, ... read more
Trans-Siberian Railway
Baikal Village
Naughty Boys

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal October 4th 2006

Day 121, 29th September Irkutsk - Šelehov - Shamanka There was a discussion this morning and the result was that Scott has decided to stay another day or two in Irkutsk. He still wasn’t feeling that well, and Kathryn had been trying long-distance Reiki on him too. I think, that in all reality, he had a promise from one of the teenies from the uni? Anyway, we all packed and went round to the Brit Council for our send-off, a TV company wanted to film us and to do a short interview too. I used the internet before I left and received a very short cryptic reply to the long and loving email I’d sent to Kathryn yesterday - which pissed me off, again. I’m getting the feeling that Kathryn may be too complicated for me ... read more
Outskirts of Irkutsk
Baikal shoreline
Strange monument

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk September 29th 2006

Irkutsk We are a long, long way from the English villages, French Boulangeries, Belgium chocolate shops, Dutch coffee shops, German Bier Kellers, Czech pancake shops, Austrian bakeries, Hungarian sunflower fields, Romanian orphans, Moldovan street cafés, Ukrainian ice-cream parlours… etc,… In fact - six and a half thousand miles away from my nice warm bed in Staffordshire, England! I look at my bike and think, “Did I really get here under my own power”! I look down at my thin, Mr Bean legs with new respect. Since entering Russia, our group of four has been split a few different ways with me doing my own thing for a short while, then Rory and Toby spending a lot of time together, leaving me and Scott to do the last 1800 miles together. We’ve had a lot of adventures ... read more
Spliffing-Up!
Irkutsk Beer
Pensive

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk September 23rd 2006

Day 113, 21st September Kujtun - Zima - Kutulyk Nothing else happened last night after the fight and the militia turning up - it could have turned out much worse actually, our bikes could have been stolen, I could have been killed, we BOTH could have been killed… those guys had Kalashnikovs and who would have found our bodies in the wilds of Siberia. I surveyed the early morning scene. There was blood splattered around the tents, God knows how that got there…. Then, to my horror, I noticed my flick-knife lying on the grass, open! What the f*** had gone on last night exactly? I heard the guy drive away in his truck, I’d hit him hard, I know that, did I threaten him further with my knife, did he come to the tent? Was ... read more
Good roads
East Buryatia
One of the Better cafes

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk September 21st 2006

Day 110, 18th September Zamzor - Kamyšet - Nineudinsk I lie in my tent thinking, “What the hell am I doing here”? In the middle of freezing cold Siberia, with only a bike for transport, a friend I only met a few months ago, and a bottle of frozen water. Am I worried? I am - at the prospect of sitting at a desk back home, then, I begin to feel a bit better. Then I start to think of getting to Singapore… will we beat this Siberian winter, we’ve been told by locals that we won’t! We need to reach Lake Baikal before we start heading south to warmer climes, but we still have the Gobi and Mongolia to cross. We have no idea of the road conditions there, and, it will probably be late ... read more
Siberian watering-hole
Rough roads
Autumnal Colours




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