Classic Continental

---

Follow us as we float along the Iberian peninsula aboard Oceania chip MARINA from Amsterdam to Barcelona.

After a few days of rest in Barcelona we'll jet off to Rome for a week and then Florence for a week.

Away we go!!

Amsterdam, Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Monday, September 1, 2014

Monday, September 1& Tuesday, September 2

The drive to the airport was uneventful, though filled with anticipation. FINALLY, after months and months of planning the day had arrived our "official" celebration of Christopher's birthday had begun. Note…his birthday was in February – and we did in fact celebrate it QUITE well…BUT as with my big numbered birthday – he got to choose a trip. So he selected the Classic Continental – a voyage on Marina (Oceania Lines) from Amsterdam to Barcelona.

Those of you who may have read previous entries know that the trip usually started with mother in the hospital. No matter when or where we went I was always saying goodbye to Mom as if it were the last time I’d see her. Well, Mom took her final journey two years ago – so…in memory of Mom who considered herself a traveler, we’re off!

We decided to upgrade to Business class on KLM Royal Dutch Airlines….BEST.MOVE.EVER! We arrived upstairs to take our seats – 72 J & K only to find them occupied. He was on his iPhone, she was reading some romance novel (they still sell those with Fabio on the cover?). I looked up, looked down and politely mentioned that we had a problem. And that would be you two in our seats…..OH NO, these are ours she proudly exclaimed. ROW 2. UM…..this is row 72. Oh, well, hmm….I wanted to be downstairs anyway, she admitted, with some bite to her comment. On her way downstairs, she gave the flight attendant what for. So glad she did! The attendant came over to apologize for the mix up….I told her she was in a no win situation with that woman. If she had stopped her to check her ticket she would have been insulted and yelled. The attendant agreed and thanked us for our understanding and then proceeded to give us the time of our lives!

If we wanted Champagne, we got a VERY healthy pour. Wine? Oh, YES! She even gave us a wine pairing with our dinner. Unfortunately, there were some miscues with her co-workers who entered our order wrong, and well…..MORE good stuff came our way. The Head Purser came over to introduce herself to us – she was charming and engaged us in a lengthy conversation about our trip. When the all too brief flight was over – our flight attendant sent us along with a tray of chocolate truffles (LOVE) and extra Dutch Houses…it’s a thing KLM does. Collectibles, perhaps? Anyway…..I am SOLD on KLM.

I maybe slept 45 minutes, Christopher a little more than I. Why is it I just can’t sleep on a plane – even with a lay flat bed? Oh well….

We landed in Amsterdam, got our luggage and met our driver (thank you Amex Platinum). We arrived at the ship terminal and waited to check in. With the particulars of check-in complete we hit the ground running (on VERY little steam we soon discovered).

So…here we are in Amsterdam. Our flight attendant had given us a LOT of places to see after “scolding” us for not spending more time in her burg…..we told her we’d just have to come back and fly with you again. Now…what do we do? What do we see? Well we walked and walked (and me without my Fit-Bit on!) We walked for at least 90 minutes weaving in and out of alleys, crossing canals and just taking in the sights. After about 90 minutes we decided to board the ship and eat something.

Dover

Dover, England, United Kingdom
Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Dover, England

The morning came much too early for my liking. Early to bed the night before, but that doesn't necessarily mean early to rise. BUT…UK immigration rules the day (damn them) and early it is…like it or not.

Our face to face meeting with immigration included a rundown of our itinerary….the interviewing agent said she wasn’t jealous…no NOT AT ALL…GOOD. Payback for getting us up so damned early!! Breakfast at the Terrace Café was impossible – not one open seat, not even on the deck. SO…we went to the Grand Dining room.

WOW….the dining room is ablaze in crystals and sparkle. They keep those Swarovski crystals CLEAN…and the LED lighting doesn’t hurt. Nice. Very, very nice. Breakfast was wonderful and we discussed how to spend our day. We had NO idea what to expect in Dover. Since London was out (still not happy about that), we decided to remain in Dover. But…..what is in Dover, other than those white cliffs? We soon found out.

SO….we went to the destination desk and learned that Dover has an amazing War history; from the earliest of recorded time to the 21^stCentury. We took the local shuttle up to Dover Castle high atop the aforementioned cliffs and were prepared to be amazed. I’m pleased to announce…mission accomplished! We were indeed amazed. The tour is made complete with an, ahem…."multimedia” show…meaning there was a set (actually QUITE authentic) and sound recording of events as they may have occurred. We followed the history of a Mosquito Pilot (flying a plane made of balsa wood) as he was shot down over the Channel. He survived, alas, his navigator did not.

We were truly impressed with the castle and tour, quite interesting. I always like learning something new. We also learned of General Patton’s "fake invasion” – operation something….remember…we were up before the sun after very little sleep. War historian, I am NOT!

We returned to the ship and decided to relax. I’m reading a biography of Catherine the Great – can’t put it down!!! The Divine Comedy is going to have to wait….I brought it, but…well…. So, off to the pool deck to read and chillax. A soak in the hot tub, a rest in the shade and a bit of a nap were all welcomed by this weary traveler.

We continued our walk around the ship and met a most wonderful couple from Australia, Vicky & Jim. Delightful. We chatted for a good hour and then parted ways, hoping to meet up on the bus tomorrow for Le Mont San Michel. We dined at the Terrace, and discussed going to see Backstage Pass…..one does NOT go on an Oceania Cruise for the entertainment! You have been warned. In all fairness, we have yet to see the show, I was asleep by 9pm! Done in by the day and still trying to sync my body & mind (lost cause?). We shall try again later…maybe.

BUCKET LIST BITCHES!!!!!

San Malo, Brittany, France
Friday, September 5, 2014

San Malo, France

Once again…early rise! Hey…I need my beauty sleep…trust me!! Today we had an early call because we are taking the guided tour of Le Mont San Michel (BUCKET LIST ITEM)…we're gonna do this sucker RIGHT! I’ll take one for the bucket list. As with most events in life, this too was another hurry up and wait moment. We had to be in the Marina Lounge at 7:50am. We made it! Not a moment to spare.

Naturally, we sat for 45 minutes while the tenders were engaged to take us to shore. There were 12 buses set to go to LMSM…so a TON of people to process…each tender takes 150 people (unless you are sitting next to the 600 pound man…as I was….from San Jose…..wish I wasn’t seated next to him….for OH SO MANY reasons. Least of which was his size…he’s one of those know it all’s with an opinion about everything, and HORRIBLY unenlightened…but who am I to judge? Oh please, of COURSE I JUDGE! Oh yeah, back to my blog….sorry he was a real pest (I need to mention he was NOT going with us to LMSM) ANYWAY….we get to the bus and away we go.

Jim & Vicky did not make our bus…they did not make it at 7:50 (and still got to go…why am I so OCD???)….. Our guide was wonderful. Just a delightful young woman with a grasp of the local history and culture. We learned SO much on our way to LMSM. So…if you EVER have an opportunity to get to LMSM – hire NoellieCouchoux, guide conferenciere at [e-mail] (Google owns the world…just saying). Saw an embroidered pillow in Dover yesterday with their logo!

On the way she described the history of Normandy & Brittany (they don’t like one another); the 100 year’s war and so much more. SO MUCH MORE! Did I mention she was wonderful? She even highlighted places we could go for lunch "to take away" if there’s time…..no time!! No big deal. We met up with Vicky & Jim, who mentioned their tour guide spent the entire trip out chatting with the bus driver! They joined our tour (after seeking out an Oceania Representative and gently mentioning the other guide was a bust)!

So…le Mont San Michel (LMSM) is built on a rock and was begun in the 8^th century. When built, it was 6miles from shore on this craggy isolated rock. The Benedictine Monks thought this place perfect for their brand of religion (does severe come to mind?). Pilgrims had to walk at low tide to the Abbey and in so doing were hoping to tip the scale of sin, so Saint Michael would be gentle with them. They would walk the six miles over “quick sand” or VERY unstable sand with unpredictable tides (remember….we’re talking 8^th century…there was no app for that)!! Well, what with tidal waters, sediment from the nearby rivers, manmade “land” and such….the “Rock” is now steps away from the shore. Still a 2 mile walk from the nearest Normandy town across the sands (and there IS a tour – and app for that)! We, of course, did NOT walk across the sand….I could hear Christopher now….MY SHOES. RUINED! MY SHOES. No. Not even an option.

The tour was beyond my expectations. I was overjoyed. This is not an easy tour for those unstable on their feet or with heart issues. A TON of steps. Some of the passengers, bless their hearts, thought they could handle it…..they didn’t even make it up the first set of stairs. Guess they didn’t believe the guidebook which CLEARLY states…..don’t go if ya can’t handle it! Good thing my seatmate was NOT going with us….no WAY he could have handled the walking. NO WAY!

The history is just so wonderful, and the countryside so VERY beautiful. Verdant green fields of corn (used for feeding pigs and NOT from MONSANTO). Brittany is known for their agriculture and seafood. Neither of which we sampled….DAMN!

Back on board ship we dined at Waves (waygu beef burger with truffle sauce for me) – I like the simple things in life…no? Christopher had mahimahi (yawn)! We then made our way to the lounge chairs and got back to reading…..well….we may have had a nap there somewhere, but that’s still under discussion (and YES HE DID take a nap, but so did I).

The ship was scheduled to depart San Malo at 5 (hmmm…..HAPPY HOUR)….so we made our way to Horizons for a Oceania Martini (2 for 1). Christopher is now in the hot tub, and I’m slaving away in the room to FINALLY catch up on this blog…Maybe I shouldn’t have mentioned it to so many people….Now I have to WORK! Worth it for me, I get to relive my experience of the day.

Tomorrow…no tour. We arrive in Lorient, France. A small coastal village. Adieu for now.

Lorient, France

Lorient, Brittany, France
Thursday, September 4, 2014

Don't ask me what day it is or the date – my mind is mush…in a good way! I have lost all track of time and couldn’t care less. Isn’t that what a vacation is all about?!



Last night we dined at The Polo Grill….dinner was a rich exploration of culinary excellence. The meal started with Fois Gras….take THAT John Burton and your STUPID law! Immediately following was a sublime Lobster Bisque topped with a Spanish Cognac – trust me. Just TRUST ME. Our next course was a perfectly cooked Filet Mignon topped with a beautiful Bernaise sauce – oh SO GOOD. My side dishes were, now don’t be jealous….Truffle Mashed Potatoes and Creamed Spinach; Christopher had Green Beans and the same potatoes. Dessert began with Passion Fruit Gelee and a Black Berry Gelee – most wonderfully timed before the REAL dessert arrived. For me 7 layer chocolate fudge cake; Christopher had the "Hamburger" which was an almond bun (think macaron) filled with a fudgy “patty” topped with a thin marzipan “cheese” – his was quite inventive and tasty….but we ALL know I won!

Dinner was rather late (9 pm) so we both were exhausted and rolled out of the dining room (not having finished everything…how could we?). We strolled around the deck a few times then I collapsed in bed.

We slept until 10 am! What jet lag?

We docked in Lorient at noon – exactly as planned. Since we had slept so very late we decided to brunch at the Grand Ballroom. The brunch is QUITE elaborate…maybe even over the top. We ordered a simple meal from the menu and made our way to the Destinations Table.

No tour scheduled for us (forced marches, rather) so we were on our own. The town of Lorient was devastated by WWII. 90%!o(MISSING)f the town was rebuilt in the 50’s. We walked into town and along the way met a charming couple from Liverpool. They have a holiday home in Florida (Dayton Beach) and consider themselves “Americans” cute no? This is their first voyage with Oceania, and clearly this is a mismatch! They were appalled by the Backstage show the other night (I WARNED YOU) and they prefer “larger ships”….they chose Oceania because they heard such wonderful things. This, by the way, is the same couple who came to California on a bus tour…..a Chinese Bus Tour…..because it was “off season”. Hmmm…methinks these two just have time and money to burn. Must be nice.

These two are real characters with a VERY wry sense of humor (did I mention they were British) – anyway – they were MOST appreciative of our tour guide walk into town….all the while the Mrs exclaiming with glee…there goes a Taxi, let’s take the taxi, Must we walk. These two are one of those married couples who just talk neither listening to the other. I’m guessing this takes YEARS of practice.

So. We arrived in town. Well, I don’t really know what we expected what with 90%!o(MISSING)f the town destroyed. We didn’t care to see the WWII barracks, nor the Submarine base so the only other place was an island off shore with the only convex beach in Europe. So…we made our way to the Tourist Information Office only to find it closed for another hour. We get the message!! LOUD & CLEAR! So, back to the ship we went.

We landed by the pool (a nasty job but someone has to do it) and read. I just can’t put my book down, so good. Christopher napped then jumped into the hot tub. I swam a bit then also jumped into the hot tub. SO relaxing.

After our rest poolside (in the shade) we went to the gym. We both did some cardio and lifted a bit and now back in the room showered and all clean and ready for our dinner reservations at Jacques. SO LOOKING FORWARD!!! Jim & Vicky were singing its praises so, we can’t wait to dine tonight. We’ve only had a brief brunch and a lot of water…well….there WAS that milkshake!

Tomorrow we are in Bordeaux! I think there might be some wine on the schedule, don’t you?

Oh, one more thing. Yesterday I mentioned a “600 pound man” – that was a metaphor. He was not obese but a horrible type of homophobic, xenophobic, never wrong “ugly American”. I must say – this is the very FIRST time I’ve come across someone on a cruise so nasty, negative and well obtuse. So..I referred to him as a 600 pound man – who took up a GREAT deal of space, because no-one wanted to sit by him. His opinions were not winning him friends (in my book). The worst part – his travel companions were of a similar mind….AND he’s from San Jose! I did manage to hear that without cringing.

In Vino Veritas

Le Verdon Sur Mer, Aquitaine, France
Saturday, September 6, 2014

Le Verdon

Sleep has been so very easy for me, but for some reason, last night was my nemesis….I think I got some sleep, but it sure didn't feel like it when I got up this morning….and it didn’t feel like it last night when I was tossing and turning.

Dinner last night was sublime. Duck, Fois Gras, French Onion Soup, cheese course and a chocolate mousse so light and creamy it was like eating air. Mon Dieu!!

We arrived early at Le Verdon, the port of call for Bordeaux. Silly us….we thought we could get to Bordeaux on our own…NO SO MUCH! The port is industrial – there’s nothing, I mean NOTHING for miles. Lots of beautiful countryside but other than that. NADA! SO….after a VERY early start and second in line at the Destinations Desk…I learned that the 2 tours we wanted to take were sold out. Hmmmm. In fact there were only 2 tours left, so I grabbed the last 2 tickets for Medoc Vineyards. So, we won’t get into town, but we WILL get to taste wine!!

The little village of Sulac Sur Mer is reminiscent of Carmel by the Sea, on Monterey Bay. Quaint does this village no justice. The homes are all named – some after Puccini Operas others after saints and still others after themselves. One imagines this was the original "address" for the residents. The village is easily walkable with a beautiful beach – long and wide. Even here we saw men using their metal detectors looking for buried “treasure” on the strand. Amusing. We walked through the Town Market, lots of wines, fruits, vegetables, spices, cheese, meat and fish all neatly arranged in their functional stalls. Most likely these vendors were all responsible for the harvesting, growing and slaughtering their goods. I did notice the fish came from Scotland…..so I might be wrong on all counts! OH, shattered impression!!

The shuttle into town was quick and easy, as was our visit. One hour, and we were done.

Back on board the ship we had a bit of lunch and read by the pool. It had to be done!

We made our way to the Marina Lounge for our tour of the Medoc and wine tasting at Chateau Tour du By. The drive through the Medoc was fascinating, our guide was interesting our group was a hodgepodge of individuals. Nuff said about them – don’t want to get all “judgy” at this point! We stopped at the Rothchild’s Chateau (NICE) – I didn’t get a picture as we weren’t allowed to exit the bus DAMN! The other Rothchild place is rather close by (one is the “Paris” family, the other the “London” family – they are related. One is Mouton (London) and the other the big kahuna (Paris)! After we stopped at two more Chateau, but only to look. No tasting no tour. Finally after about an hour drive through the Medoc (seen one grapevine, ya seen 'em all) we arrived for our tasting.

The Chateau is BEAUTIFUL, the vineyard quite nice, the wines….well…not so much. This is a big, BIG producer over 400-thousand bottles for 2013 vintage, 2014 not yet harvested, 2010 they had 700-thousand bottles, their wines sell in the 17 Euro range. I would not go out of my way to purchase these wines. Just an opinion. I have to say the Medoc region is QUITE different from either Napa or Sonoma. Flat or rolling hills adjacent to the estuary of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers – no mountains whatsoever. At this particular winery, because of their size, they pick all grapes by machines. We saw the huge combines out back – in anticipation of the harvest perhaps? She mentioned they are so big, hand sorting would be too costly. Ah, the benefits of boutique wineries!

I found people’s need to be wine Cognoscenti FASCINATING! One gentleman asked about Grappa…”because you know it is made from the leftovers of the winemaking process – do you take the wine leftovers from the barrel and make Grappa?” Um….NO you fool! First Grappa is distilled from the remainder of the crush, not the lees (I SO wanted to speak up) – my clear head prevailed. I just rolled my eyes at Christopher. Naturally, people involved in their own loud conversations (making it a challenge for those of us who’d like to hear) ask a question which our guide answered not 20 seconds before. AAAAHHHHH…puts me over the edge at work too! Courtesy people, common courtesy – just sayin’!! I love to hear what people say about wine as it is so very, VERY personal – like selecting a fragrance. What I may like, you may not…..well one woman proclaimed (in front of our hosts) the wine dreck! NICE YOU CLOD. Now, it wasn’t the best, and it was young, but dreck? And…in front of our hosts! Stupid American.

After a head nodding ride back to the Ship, we arrived with time to spare before our dinner in Tosca. SO, what to do? Well….how about a hot tub while we set off? How about a hot tub at the BOW of the ship as we sail off? DONE! The concierge level has its benefits!! We sat on very comfortable lounge chairs and read for a while (I CAN’T PUT MY BOOK DOWN)! Then hopped into the hot tub as we pulled away from the dock and into the estuary. SO COOL! I highly recommend one do this at least once in one’s life. Just you, the windscreen and the wide open ocean in front of you. Heavy sigh.

All showered and ready for dinner. Tonight in restaurant Tosca. Good wine shall be drunk, I guarantee you!! Both Tosca & Polo are on the sister ships, so we are quite familiar with them and their fare. I am looking forward to dinner tonight. Who am I kidding? I’m ALWAYS looking forward to dinner (well, with maybe one exception which I can’t name here for fear of exposure)!!

Off to dinner!

The rain in Spain....is NOT on the plains!

A Coruna Province, Galicia, Spain
Sunday, September 7, 2014

A Coruna, Spain

Sunday in Spain!

Dinner last night in Toscana was wonderful – but we've FINALLY learned our lesson….split entrees. We both hate wasting food and aren’t ordering a lot, but the portions are NUTS! My Veal chop had to be at least 8 ounces and the rib bone was 12 inches long. I ate half. The meal started with their famous artichoke timbale with truffle oil (breathe Paula, BREATHE). SO GOOD.

So we woke late Sunday morning…REALLY LATE…but were still floating along the Atlantic. We didn’t dock until noon and left the ship shortly thereafter. We knew it might rain, and so disembarked the ship shortly after the rain stopped. No umbrella. Christopher had a hat we both had our rain jackets on and were ready to go.

WELL….the first sign of trouble was the thunder….didn’t see the lightening…just the thunder…..then it happened. DELUGE. Less than a few seconds after the thunder the heavens opened up and just drenched us. We made our way to the "old town" of A Coruna and found a small plaza with a canopy of trees as protection. The trees, sycamore perhaps, were quite tall and trained to cover the plaza in its entirety which provided shelter from the rain. The sound of the rain on the leaves was so beautiful and relaxing. We were able to stop for a while and gather our wits. I didn’t take a picture of the plaza – now I’m kicking myself! Oh well.

We walked along for a while and then decided we were just too soaked to continue. Back to the ship and warm clothes. We rested for a bit and then “took tea” in the Horizons Lounge. We both commented on how much we needed this little respite. So relaxing and civilized.

Today was a bit of a bust, but as it was Sunday, and the town was fairly well closed up tight – we didn’t miss much. We took our walk and had a bit of fun in the rain.

Now….some observations….

This ship is opulent. The Lalique staircase is beyond spectacular. The size of the ship isn’t too big, but I wouldn’t go on anything larger…too big. The crew, staff and service is impeccable – nothing left to chance. Staying on the Concierge Deck has its advantages….too numerous to list!! We have been spoiled…and I think we’ve earned it!!

Now, the characters aboard ship are quite entertaining! We have one gentleman, no clue where he’s from, who has an elastic bandage around his head and chin. He rarely speaks, using hand signals a good part of the time, but he does speak….only not much. He is able to eat, and the ENTIRE time we’ve been trying to decide what happened. Facelift? No….and if it was – he should get his money back! Throat? Perhaps, he smokes like a chimney and lights one cigarette off the other. Still don’t know. We don’t stare (that would be rude)…just curious.

The passengers are quite diverse. Spaniards, Aussies, Dutch, German, Canadian, South African- I’m thinking there are fewer Americans on this ship than I’ve experienced before. Not a bad thing.

Two couples I had the chance to overhear left the ship in San Malo and spent the night in a Castle somewhere in Normandy – they hired a chef and had a wine pairing dinner at this castle. They awoke early the next morning and were the first to arrive at Le Mont San Michel for a nearly private tour! Must be nice. Clearly, all it takes is money. They joined us in Le Verdon, and were on our tour of the Medoc.

We met a lovely couple from San Jose – I recognized them but couldn’t place them until she mentioned they were seated behind us on the plane over!! Small World indeed. I have NOT, thank goodness, been exposed to the foul man also from San Jose again – and hope I never see him again.

One night at dinner we were seated next to a group of women from Australia who were quite entertaining. They laughed, cackled and had a wonderful time together. I’m guessing they’ve known one another for some time they chatted nonstop. I mean NON. STOP. Talking over one another, voices raised in glee…. Quite amusing to observe.

And now….a question…..WHY do people bathe in their fragrance? If the fragrance were appealing, that’s one thing…but most of this stuff smells like crap. I’m telling you there are some snail trails of fragrance which last the length of the ship! A bit nauseating, I must say.

I’m amazed at the manners, or lack thereof, of some individuals on board. People who bring their coffee barrels to the espresso maker and then fill it 4 times with cappuccino and espresso then take their barrel to their room….meanwhile they have caused a line waiting to get their coffee. People who cut in to get their food before you so they make CERTAIN to get the piece they want. More than once this has happened. I’m chatting with the server, who puts the item on my plate either to be pushed aside (seriously) or have the plate thrust in front of mine. RUDE. Whatever happened to good manners? Manners matter in my book!

OK…..tonight I was served some Paella and was turning to move along to get something else…a guy cuts in front of me and knocks my plate, no excuse me, no I’m sorry nothing but he makes SURE to get in to take my place for his share of Paella….I SERIOUSLY doubt they’ll run out…dinner service had only just started. Oh well…

As we sat to dinner the ship began to pull away from the dock; a fascinating maneuver. The starboard thrusters were engaged and the ship made a lateral move so as to clear the dock, and back out from its mooring. When the thrusters hit full throttle, the entire ship began to shake. We were on the 12^th deck, and we SHOOK. It felt like 6.8 on the Richter scale…the shaking lasted a good long while. Ah, memories (YEAH RIGHT)! Some shaking I’d like to forget thank you very much!!

The weather has been spectacular up until today. We’ve had some fog but every day the sun has managed to make its way high into the sky and shone down on us….until today. The seas have been quite calm as well. At Jacques, our host – who seated us at the window – came by to ask which lake we were sailing on….he was quite surprised by how calm the seas have been on this voyage. He mentioned this is QUITE rare. We are thankful!!

Ah, the rain stopped again. Just now. It was coming down in buckets, again. I have missed the rain I must say. I do love a good rain storm.

After an early dinner (FINALLY) we went up to Horizons to watch the sunset. So beautiful to watch the sun sink slowly into the calm waters of the Atlantic. The sea was smooth as glass as the orange ball slowly made its way down closer and closer until it finally slipped behind a cloud back and into the sea. The sky was something out of a Maxfield Parrish painting, shades of pink, orange and red just so very strikingly beautiful.

I left my heart in Lisbon.....

Lisbon, Estremadura, Portugal
Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Lisbon:

To give an idea as to where we are at the moment….Christopher is lounging to my right I am looking out over the pool to the amazing cloud formations which hover high above the Atlantic off the port of Lisbon, Portugal. Yes I'm poolside…..someone has to do it right?? Ain’t technology grand (except for some reason, we’ve lost the ability to connect to WiFi…software or hardware? Who knows! As I write this, behind me is the city and her tiled facades and roofs glistening in the afternoon sun. Perfection!

This morning we went up to the Terrace Café for breakfast before hitting the town. As it was such a beautiful day, we decided to dine al fresco. I walked out and before me was a VERY familiar sight….a bridge, which looks like a duplicate of the Golden Gate! HEY…..what gives? Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, so…there you have it!!! Breakfast on the aft deck looking over the port with a beautiful bridge off in the distance, it could be worse!!

Lisbon is built on a hillside with typical narrow streets and buildings rising high to create cool shadowy spaces; otherwise, it would be almost impossible to walk these streets in the heat of the day. The city rises from the sea rather abruptly, capped by the Castle of St. George. Impressive. The line to get in was equally impressive; we were not willing to wait in the que, in the sun to get in – we have a short day here in Lisbon, so we shall walk.

We walked up and down hills through the old town and city center. Here we found old tram cars similar to the F line at home…only considerably smaller. As we made our way down from the castle, I came upon a sign. This sign read: URINOL with a little boy peeing. The sign was high on the side of a wall, and below and behind was a urinal. Outside. Shielded by a metal screen. I have wet wipes. I have to go. SO….why not? Well, I guess I set a trend, because as I walked out there was a line of gentlemen in a similar predicament! I hope they had wet wipes.

Just down the road, we came upon a tiny shop filled with local treasures. Since we had not purchased a thing since leaving SF, we went in. So charming. Fado music in the background (for sale, of course) and beautiful tiles, pottery etc. We found 2 "tiled" espresso cup and saucers we liked and made our first purchase. YEAH!! We asked before purchasing if they were made in Portugal. There is a mark and script on the back…but who knows for sure? I hope they aren’t from China!!!

We finally made it to the “town square” – there are so very many – but this is the big kahuna….because it is surrounded by stores ripe for the hungry shopper wanting to spend their euros! Not us. Zig-zagging our way through the shopping district trying to stay in the shade, we found a pastry shop. The window was SO enticing…we gave in and ordered a beautiful cream filled puffy pastry – so delightful. It hit the spot.

We walked back to the Ship, changed and came out here to the pool. So civilized. So, now if you’ll excuse me, I’m going swimming, then I’m going to read. We have to prepare for our Captain’s Cocktail party tonight. Dinner is our SPLURGE….La Reserve, by Wine Spectator!! We shall be treated to a meal prepared for us and paired with selected wines. So looking forward to it!!

I shall report back when (and if) I’m able later….

Ciao for the moment.

Just back from the pool. Showered. Coiffed. Robed in terry and resting before our busy night. We set off at 3 this afternoon. Wouldn’t you know it….we sailed under the Fauxlden Gate Bridge! The cars rolling over the bridge above made for a most interesting sound. We applauded as we went under (well, I DID) as the jazz band played by the pool. The band was quite unexpected and a nice addition to the day.

OK…Dinner….are you ready????

But first the Captain’s Party. Meh. We drank OK Champagne with a few small bites (remember, we had no lunch) and listened to the stats regarding the ship….wine consumption (YIKES, we’re a bunch of wineauxs) – 14-thousand bottles!!! Stats about who is on board……#1 USA (over 600 guests), #2 UK, #3 Canada, #4 Australia. That’s all I remember!

OK…back to dinner……We arrived at La Reserve at our appointed time (7 pm) to be greeted by a hostess who sat us on the deck which had been cordoned off by staff. We were portside, outside under the 14^th deck sipping a Kir (yum) seated alone for less than a minute. Joining us a couple from New Orleans: Terry & Randi a lovely couplnner was superb is e; and Emilio & Marisol (he originally from Honduras, she originally from Costa Rica) but living in Atlanta for the last 30 years. Each of us got along famously sharing our love of great food and wine. This is going to be FUN!

We were escorted into the dining room table by table and seated with an amazing view of the vast blue sea. Dinner was 7 courses which I shall share with you now:

- Perlita Caviar d’Aquitaine with Cream of Sea Urchin, paired with Dom Ruinart Brut Rose 2002

· Hoisin Sauteed Duck Foie Gras with Pecan and Cucumber Salad over ReislingInfused Watermelon, paired with Donnhoff Tonscheifer Trocken QBA Reisling Nahe 2013

· Culatello Gran Riserva and Smoked Ricotta in Tricorne Ravioli with Pumpkin Veloute, paired with Valdamor Barrica Albarino, 2009

· Butter Poached BrittanyBlue Lobster with Vegetable Nage and Beetroot Cress, paired with Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay, 2010

· Seared Kobe Beef Sous Vide with Valrhona Sauce, Franck’s Mashed Potatoes and Edamame Beans, paired with Marchesi Fumanelli Octavius Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG, 2007

· Roasted Vacherin Mont d’Or with Grape and Truffle Salad, paired with Delas Freres Marquise de la Tourette Hermitage, 2011

· Berry Consomme with Lime-Ginger Mascarpone Ice Cream and Sesame Crisp, paired with Pelee Island Winery Vidal Ice Wine, 2007

The only wine I didn’t like was the Ice Wine…surprised? We had a ball! The conversation never lacked. We all chatted nonstop and got along so very well. We chatted about wines, Napa, Sonoma, Bordeaux and wines from Chile, Australia and New Zeland, careers, children and everything but politics and the weather…clearly our parents prepared us well for such an interaction!!

Off to dreamland… More from Cadiz tomorrow….

Portugal is more than just Port!!!

Porto, Northern Portugal, Portugal
Monday, September 8, 2014

The view from our room is amazing! We arrived in port mid morning and what do we see out our window, aside from the beautiful bay of Oporto, but a magnificent new Cruise Terminal, still under construction. I can't wait to see it finished. The façade is a ribbon of concrete which creates a circular structure covered with local tiles affixed to the surface of the concrete; these white octagonal tiles are not flat but affixed so as to catch the light and reflect she surface giving the structure a shimmering glow. LOVE IT!!!! Google it…you won’t be disappointed, particularly those of you interested in Architecture.

The city of Oporto is just beautiful. We waited for the free shuttle to the city center, about 7 miles away. We were the last two to get on after waiting a good long time. We brought our room umbrella so as not to make the same mistake as yesterday. In bringing the umbrella we all but guaranteed that it would not rain! It didn’t. Whew….but BOY was it humid and oh so HOT!!!

Portugal is known for its tiles. The facades of the buildings are covered from ground to roof with these elegant tiles. Each building has its own tile reflecting the owner’s whims or family history. So quaint. Oporto is bisected by a river, with old town on one side, and the wine industry on the other. This industry is, of course, Port. Not one of our favorites….somehow, we lost our taste for Port…...(the wine) but NOT the city!

To say I’m infatuated with Oporto is an understatement. The old town is so very quaint with its narrow streets and densely packed buildings. I don’t know HOW the natives manage to drive these narrow streets goingup and down hills in their cars shifting gears with one hand, cell phone in the other (YES) and steering with their knees. No thank you!! Of course, some have to stop rather short for we tourists who stand along the "sidewalk"….if you can call it that, as they maneuver the corner or some such. A sight to behold.

We walked for hours staying in the shade as much as possible. We walked from the top of town, through the old town down to the riverfront. Walking along the river we caught a beautiful breeze which helped cool us down….the sun was high and hot…the clouds menacing, big deep and black…waiting to shed their droplets, but alas they never did. I was hoping for a brief shower to cool things off a little…but relief only came in the form of water from a plastic bottle.

From the river we took the funicular at the base of the Louis I bridge backup to the shopping district. In no mood for shopping, we made our way to the Train station to get a look at the tile “painting” (not really a mosaic), then across the street to view the Cathedral.

Talk about opulent!!! The altar is a sight to see. Gilt everywhere, black painted surfaces with gilt pillars and angels. A little over the top for my taste. Nothing like the Bernini Altar in St. Peters….much more somber and dark.

The houses here open to the narrow streets. The doors and windows are configured in such a way so as to allow the cool shady air in and to force the hot air up and out. So very interesting. In the old town, there are entire blocks of abandoned buildings, some for sale others…who knows? A lot of for sale signs and a lot of shops no longer in business. I guess recovery has been slow for Portugal. Some of the homes in old town look as if they would fall over in a big wind…some have corrugated walls (exterior walls) and roofs. Not sure how secure and stable these structures are!

Back to wait for the shuttle back to the ship. Since we arrived at lunchtime (for the drivers) we waited in an adjacent park seated in the shade. When we saw the que growing, we decided to get in line ASAP, we didn’t want to wait any longer. Some were in line over an hour and along came the bus. Just then a group of Russians (?) jumped the line. WELL…you would have thought they invaded Oporto! Some of the people who had waited in line for so long tried to push these big guys and gals out of the doorway. Mind you, I was in agreement, but these guys were HUGE. They pushed back – one Aussie woman was quite fierce in her refusal to allow them on the bus. She was yelling at them, they claimed not to understand. I had never seen so many angry people. In the end, they got on, as did we, but some people who had waited with us did not. I think some complained to the ship staff which, I imagine fell of deaf ears. What could they do?

Back on board, we had a bit of lunch and sat by the pool for a few hours (in the shade). I’m reading a wonderful book Catherine the Great, Portrait of a Woman, by Robert K Massey. SO GOOD!!! I’m right at the part where Elisabeth is ill, having suffered a stroke and the gears are in motion for succession. It can only get better!!!

Off to dinner at the Grand Dining room and an early night. This heat is exhausting.

Solo in Cadiz

Cádiz, Andalusia, Spain and Canary Islands
Wednesday, September 10, 2014

September 10, Cadiz

So, after last night's dinner we awoke rather, um….late; but for reasons OTHER than wine. Chris had a rough night and well…therefore so did I. He’s been unwell for a few days (prior to our drenching in A Coruna) and it reached its peak last night. He awoke this morning with a sore throat and red eyes, his forehead felt warm, so he decided to say on the ship and rest. I begged him to go to the doctor. He did….no one was there. I asked him to remember to go back and see the Dr. We shall see if he did…

So I did Cadiz on my own. Cadiz is purported to be the oldest city on the Iberian Peninsula, if not all of Europe. What a quaint city she is to behold! So I left the ship and his "royal sickness" with my camera, two bottles of water and a goal…to walk the perimeter of the city. I DID IT!!

Crossing the streetfrom the port, I came upon a park. There was some TV crew shooting video with an announcer – but I had NO CLUE what they were saying or why they were there. Didn’t take a picture of them, but did take a picture of the monument which they were standing near. It looked interesting, so…..why not? Walking through the park, I took a right and headed for what I hoped was the sea wall. BINGO! It was.

I walked along the sea wall for a good long time. The view was spectacular. The tide was quite low, so off in the distance one could see a large rock formation with a very tall marker – I think this marker s a warning for this land mass when the tide is high.

Rounding the corner, I passed the Universidad di Cadiz, and across the street from said University is a BEAUTIFUL beach. I wonder how much studying is done on the beach, and of what kind??? The distraction would be too much for me. I remember trying to read Plato on the beach in college. LOST CAUSE! Hmmm…..Plato on the Beach, I think I have a title for my first novel! HA, right!!

Rounding yet another corner I came upon a “sea” of boats tethered to the sand in some manner. They were resting on the beach – there must have been 100 of these tiny boats. Some with engines, others with only oars (but one could see where an engine might have been – maybe a less trusting soul). I wandered down to the boats and took a few pictures…I’ll have to see if they came out as I hoped. I looked down and noticed some sea glass….SO…..well – why not? I went hunting!! Picked up a few pieces of glass and some other sea formations and slipped them into my bag. Hope I don’t forget them!!

From the beach, I saw the Cathedral, so decided to head into “town” and have a look around. So cute and quaint. Went into a church (not the Cathedral…I’d rather not give the church any money thank you very much) – WOW…Spanish Churches and subtlety do NOT go together! There was a figure of Mary, in a black velvet cape crying tears with a medallion in her right hand. Next to Mary, and just above – a statue of Pope John Paul II. That didn’t take long! The altar was ablaze in gold and black, quite over the top.

In and out in a few minutes, I saw a Pharmacy….maybe I should pick up a decongestant for Christopher. Went in, got the pills and was out in a few minutes. After the drug connection, I decided to walk around and look for the market. Didn’t take long, small town. I walked up and down each street and took in the view. Off the main square, I saw a department store….since nature was telling me it was time, I went into the store for some relief.

In the store, after my call of nature, I saw a blue pullover T shirt in a wonderful shade of blue…..only 4,99 Euro! DONE! Bought it. So comfortable, love it…wearing it tomorrow!!!

OK, time to head back to the Ship. I’ve been walking for three hours!! No wonder my feet are starting to let me know. Got back to the room, changed and headed out to the pool. No Christopher. Not in the room, not by the pool….OK….OH, one more place – there he is; resting on the chaise up on deck 14 (portside).

I went down to the pool and decided to read and rest. Asked if he went to the doctor……no he had not gone back, he’ll wait until later. So while I read, he slept. We stayed on the deck reading, people watching and resting until the ship sailed off at 6. What a beautiful day.

Christopher looked over at me and said, “I don’t think I can be any more relaxed”. Mission accomplished!

Dinner tonight – Red Ginger. We both had the crispy duck and watermelon salad. SO GOOD. I had the miso coated pan fried Sea bass, and Christopher had the Chicken Pot. My fish was cooked to perfection, it reminded me of Nemo’s in Naples Florida…only better! Sorry guys!! For dessert…steamed ginger apple cake with cardamom ice cream. So refreshing and tasty. Neither of us overdid it, but….the portions are just too big. Clearly, they cater to the US customer.

So….at dinner…I noticed the gentleman at the next table…..a table of four engaged in lively conversation. All but this man who, fooling no one, had his cell phone in his hands and paid it more attention than his wife and table mates. RUDE! Do you mean to tell me he can’t disconnect for an hour and enjoy a meal and dinner guests? If he doesn’t like the conversation, send it on another path. I can’t abide cell phone addiction. He would stare at his phone, scroll up and down reading nothing. Clearly his important email, twitter feed or facebook news feed had yet to be updated! WHATEVER! Yes…I admit it…I’m judging him!

Now off to bed.

I don't think I can be any more relaxed!

Málaga, Andalusia, Spain and Canary Islands
Thursday, September 11, 2014

Malaga

This morning we woke up with the sun trying to break through the drapes. SO BRIGHT! Well, we did NOT stay up to see the Rock of Gibraltar…we passed through the straight between midnight and 1am. UM….HELLO…..maybe we should have scheduled this for a DAY TRANSIT! Just saying! No one asked my opinion, and they DO have a schedule to maintain…..but REALLY? I wanted to see it….by daylight. Oh, well….another time.

To go to Granada or not….THAT is the question. We BOTH want to see Granada and all it has to offer, but it is 2 hours away and only accessible via bus. Neither of us likes being in a bus for any time, and forced marches are OUT! So, another time here as well. We stayed in Malaga and just LOVED it!!

The ship's shuttle dropped us quite near the Cathedral, and therefore the center of town, so off we went. Our first goal….the Cathedral. Interesting Gothic church with only one tower. Looks like they didn’t have enough money to finish the second tower. Oh well….better they should save it (no…I better stop there). No, we did NOT go in, outside was plenty nice.

Second goal – the Alcazaba ruins. SO COOL! Phoenician ruins co-opted by the Moors so one may see a Phoenician column supporting a Moorish arch – quite cool. The tile work on the ceilings is beautiful as is the detailing around each window. The ruins are in fairly decent shape for having been "rebuilt" by the Moors in the 11^th, & 14^th Century. We walked a lot but not all the way to the top of the mountain to the castle Gibralfaro (too hot, no shade). For both of us – it is ALL about the shade. No tree, no shade.

Walking back, we noticed the Roman Amphitheatre. Tonight they are having a performance of an ancient play- I truly didn’t catch the name of the play, because I did not recognize the title in Spanish. From there we took off through the city. Much as I did yesterday, we walked and walked just looking at things and taking pictures. We saw a bull ring just across the street…..thankfully we did not go any closer. No “show” today. I thought they were illegal now…..maybe I got it wrong, or maybe they’re converting these arenas for other usage? Who knows….not me… I’ll have to google it later.

While walking we came upon a gelato store: Amorino. This is a Milanese brand which is coming to Marin and San Francisco….I know this because Christopher is their Architect!! SO….word to the wise GET THERE ASAP….their gelato is AMAZING!!!!! We tried it here in Malaga today and just loved it. I had chocolate, dulce de Lecce, and fig…WOW. They were all wonderful, but the fig was so different and tasted just like a real fig. They use organic ingredients and create these cones in the shape of a rose. Such a unique presentation….we always got ours in a cup, next time I want a rose!! They are opening on Union Street and The Village in Corte Madera. GO! You won’t be disappointed.

I failed to mention, docked quite near us it the Oasis of the Seas. HUGE! Four-thousand of your closest friends with two-thousand crew….6-thousand people! That’s a village! I think our ship can fit in their atrium. NO THANK YOU! This is as big as I’ll ever go, thank you very much.

Time for some more observations….

This ship is beautiful, big and full of life. The staff are wonderful, attentive and pleasant. This ship is clean….I’ve seen them disinfect the handrails daily. When using the “facilities” they have a sign asking you to use a hand towel to open the door. Then, they provide a hand towel and waste bucket at the door for your convenience. The food servers at the buffet all wear rubber gloves. The chef, when cooking wears rubber gloves, we saw it last night at Red Ginger. There is NO way the dreaded “N” virus would dare show its ugly face here.

I have never in my life seen so many men with “orange” hair! Guys….give it up. It looks SO BAD! Let your hair go its natural shade….grey. It is distinguished. The orange dye job looks so very, VERY fake. There are even those few who have managed to do what I call the double double……a bad dye job comb over. HOLY CRAP! Who are they kidding?? What are they running from?? I love my greying hair (NOT my greying beard though…go figure). So, I shave therefore no beard, but my hair….I have earned each and every grey hair on my head, and I embrace it…even the receding hairline and bald spot in the back. Inevitable. Why fight it?

Facelifts….Men and women older than I who look twenty years younger (or so they think) with their frozen misshapen faces in a permanent smile and shocked alert look. Um…really? Seriously? Did you ever think to look at your hands? Dead give away. As is the scar behind your ears. I was standing behind the “magician” the other day….never saw his show. But him close up? YIKES. He’s probably my age…..hair plugs, facelift AND bad dye job. A triple threat!!! I’m all for plastic surgery….but seriously people…moderation. I’m not opposed to a nip and a tuck, but no frozen face. Just hit me….maybe they’re on this cruise to ease back into society? Perhaps. There he goes again….judgy Jim.

Christopher overheard someone chatting about the bandaged man. His report…..the gentleman had throat/jaw cancer. So sad, and he still smokes like a freaking chimney. Seriously, I don’t think he can go for more than 10 minutes without a cigarette. That’s an addiction…..

While I’ve been slaving away out here at the pool writing my little heart out, Christopher has been going back and forth doing the laundry. He just returned from removing everything from the dryer. Job done! Thanks sweetie!!! He also reports that the medicine is doing its job. YEAH!!! Now I can rest easy. BUT…he never did go back to the doctor…..

I think it’s time for the pool, don’t you?

Ahh, SO refreshing! You’ll NEVER guess who was in the pool….the 600 pound man. We even chatted for a moment. Clearly he didn’t recognize me…..maybe it was the sun or the second of his rum and cokes talking, but he was somewhat sane. He was quite impressed with Granada, and the Alcazar. I mentioned that Malaga was a beautiful city as well, and he simply said all of Spain is quite nice. HUH? Then a buddy came by – they got to chatting about different things…AND…..he said “I don’t get all this political correctness bulls$#t….I’m not happy until I’ve offended everyone, that makes it real”…..Oh well, I was just about to give him a pass….

GEBUS….that horn! The first blast always makes me jump! We’re not leaving yet….only 7pm..SEVEN PM!!!??? We’ve been out by the pool a LONG time!!

Ah, a shower and dressed for dinner. Tonight we dine in the Grand Dining room, just in time to see us off. As we pulled away from the dock, so too did the Oasis of the Seas. They were sent off with a salute from the fire ships circling them with their hoses shooting water high into the air. The crew is more than the entire population of this ship! No thank you. Still and all, it was a spectacular sight to see.

After dinner we went for a walk. On deck, we noticed the black sky…tar black. No stars, no moon (did you see it last night – so beautiful). So surprised – today was so clear, with a few clouds, but here at sea we are enshrouded in the velvety black sky.

Off to bed now….

On the Sea on the Sea, on the beautiful sea.....

Málaga, Andalusia, Spain and Canary Islands
Friday, September 12, 2014

Friday, September 12, 2014

At Sea today. Our only sea day on this particular voyage. The ship, though crowded, is rather subdued thank goodness.

We spent the day on deck 12, the pool deck in the shade. We read all the day long. I'm closing in on the final chapters of Catherine’s life….588 pages goes quickly when written with such enthusiasm and language as it is. This book is so easy for me to enjoy.

We were seated by Jim & Vicky and so caught up on one another’s adventures over the past few days. They are such lovely people. It turns out that Vicky too was unwell and went to the Doctor for a round of antibiotics after noticing a "rattling cough" and such. We all received our bills today (ours, not so bad considering the one tour which was OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive). Anyway….Vicky’s doctor bill…..$450 for a five minute consultation (after a quote of $140) and a week’s supply of antibiotics…..YIKES. Good thing Chris didn’t go to the doctor…in Chris’ words – that’s 2 pairs of shoes!! One must understand, he relates all things in comparison to shoes….he is his Mother’s son!!

We truly have enjoyed this excursion and learned a few things. One VERY important lesion was learned today at breakfast with an English couple, from the Isle of Man (who by the way have seen more of the US than Christopher or I) that lesson…..www.curiseexcursions.com they have booked their shore excursions with this organization for a while and get a GURANTEED return to the ship before departure, and it costs less than half of the ship’s fee! We shall look into this for future reference.

In the café for a double espresso pulled expertly by Mario, I ran into the couple who were seated behind us on the flight out from SFO. They too are staying in Barcelona until Tuesday. We chatted about things to do and see. They are going to try to get to the Sagrada Familia for a booked tour…when they learned the wait in line cab be upwards of two hours, they shuddered! A call shall be placed to their Hotel Concierge soon!

Another thing I’ve learned on this trip. I LOVE the Iberian Peninsula….at least what I’ve seen of it. The people are lovely, the sights inspiring and the sea so very beautiful. The beaches of the Costa del Sol are awe inspiring, the water warm but still refreshing and the waves not as treacherous as those off the California coast. We shall return…..sooner than later one hopes.

Yet another lesion – the travel is just that much better with one you love. Not that I mind travelling alone, but sharing this experience with someone special adds that bit of something extra. I have travelled alone and done it well, but well…..you know….right?

I miss “The D6PSG”. We have travelled well together and just know they would have LOVED this trip. And how much MORE fun we all would have had together laughing, dining, drinking and generally enjoying one another’s company. Oceania has NOT seen the last of the D6PSG!!

And on that note…..Tomorrow (Saturday) we arrive in Valencia for the day. We leave the ship on Sunday in Barcelona at 9am (UGH). So the sojourn over the Atlantic and now Meditreanean Seas draws to its close…..heavy sigh.

I most likely will continue writing about our escapades under a new title (something catchy – same website)…if we can figure out what happened to our device! Is there a Microsoft store In Barcelona? Rome? Florence? My kingdom for a Microsoft store!!!!!

OK….so…after dinner we went for a long walk around the decks and stayed out to watch the sun set. We waited patiently for the moon to rise….we waited. And waited. And waited some more……still no moon. WTF? We KNOW it’s out there somewhere….must be fog, clouds or some other obstruction obscuring our view. We were out for a good hour, when….nature called so in we went.

Once inside on deck 14 we were greeted by a blast of airconditioning….SO COLD after the balmy evening stroll. We got to the men’s room and saw that someone was about to exit (the door was moving and the handle turned…but nothing), so we waited. Nothing happened. SO….Christopher opened the door and to our surprise was a man walking into his reflection in the wall mirror placed by the door…repeatedly…trying DESPERATELY to exit the men’s room. We couldn’t get in, and clearly, he was in no condition to get out. A kind gentleman assisted him by turning him around and pointing the way. After he left, and we entered we looked at the kind gentleman who responded “oh, he’s going to have a long night” we all then burst our laughing. Realizing that we were laughing at someone’s expense we tried to stifle said laughter. Well, we ALL know how well suppressed laughter works…it DOESN’T…..it just gets worse. Well, we were all laughing so hard, tears rolling down our faces. If only you all could have seen his face as he tried to walk into the mirror as if it were a door. I have no idea how many times he hit his nose. Methinks he consumed a wee bit too much of his spirit of choice this evening…heck he may have been at it all day!

Valencia - you have stolen my heart......

Valencia, Valencian Country, Spain and Canary Islands
Saturday, September 13, 2014

Valencia, Spain

Santiago Calatrava took an abandoned riverbed (well, actually after a devastating flood the city rerouted the river) and created a "city' dedicated to science. The architecture is breathtaking! Modern, unique and inspired by nature (not unlike Gaudi). Those Spaniards!

We walked all around the area, but did not go into the Aquarium nor the Museums. The Opera house was closed at that hour, and unfortunately offered no tours. So…we walked!

We made our way to “old town" via the riverbed, which has been transformed into a beautiful park. The temperature was 37 degrees Celsius! SO HOT! We tried to stay under the shade whenever possible. Along the way we chatted about how Europe is not mired in the past, and embraces its future. Architecturally, one may see an art nouveau building adjacent to a modern structure….which may offer a nod to the nouveau movement, but retain its true commitment to modernism. So interesting.

The market place has always been an attraction to both Christopher and I…..yet I despise grocery shopping!! Go figure. So, learning of Valencia’s Market we headed off in search of this temple of fresh, local fruits, vegetables, wine, fish, poultry and meat. Each market has its own personality and Valencia’s is no different. The structure is beautiful. An iron infrastructure with glass and tile provides shade from the afternoon sun and shelter from the rain. Open on four sides, the center of the market is capped by a dome crowned by a cupola. The dome is tiled in local tiles – a tribute to true craftsmanship.

Wandering around the city as we do we grew weary under the blazing sun and decided to return to she ship. We’d been walking in 100 degree weather for almost 4 hours. Enough is enough….don’t you think?

So back on the ship, in the shade – we’ve eaten and had more water (a LOT more water). We each had our “books”…..meaning our eReaders; a milkshake and some water to slake our thirst and keep us from dehydrating – we’re set. I went from reading (and ultimately finishing my book on Catherine II) – now reading Orange is the New Black (gets off to an exciting start) and jumping into the pool for relief.

Laying around the pool, one tries not to eavesdrop on other’s conversations, but when one is SO LOUD as to interrupt one’s reading….it becomes a challenge. SO….I listened….tell me you wouldn’t!

So….these two couples were comparing notes on the cruise and such – the request for comments had come out the night before. SO…..one of the women (not much older than I…maybe even my age) was commenting on the restaurant Red Ginger. Now, this restaurant is a pan Asian fusion restaurant – it embraces the flavors of Asia from Thailand, Viet Nam, Japan and China (to name a few)…remember the Chef de Cuisine is Jacques Pepin….he’s from France, living in Connecticut….SO…there are a bunch of influences in his life and repertoire when it comes to a menu! SO….this woman (American OF COURSE) Bitches about the fact that she couldn’t get a simple Broccoli Beef or Chow Mein at Red Ginger….so she actually suggested and included this moronic comment in her review of the cruise! WTF!!!!! Maybe she should dine and Panda Express. SERIOUSLY…there are times I’m embarrassed to be an American! I could not believe it…..she wasn’t kidding. Even worse….the other woman “totally agreed”! Lady….just stay home and go to the mall for Chinese. Red Ginger is WASTED on your palate!

We finally pulled ourselves up off the poolside lounges and walked back to the room. Time to pack and get ready for dinner. Easier, and more fun, to eat than pack. Just Sayin! Dinner at the Grand Dining room to say goodbye. Nothing fancy for me: Eggplant Rigatoni and Christopher had the Grilled Salmon. Simple.

Packing is another story. HATE IT! Which is why we like taking cruises….your hotel follows you –no packing and unpacking. Civilized.

Packed and ready to disembark the ship…..sad.

We're back, and LOVING IT!

Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain and Canary Islands
Sunday, September 14, 2014

Sunday, September 14. Barcelona,Spain

Sunday morning and we have to be out of our room by 8am (damn that's early) and it comes up FAST!! We inhale breakfast, go back to the room brush our teeth and disembark. Now….to find a "bancomat" (ATM) and a cab. Done. On our way to the Hotel OhLa – 2 blocks off La Ramblas. Talk about central location!!

We arrived at the hotel by 9am – far too early to go to our room. So, we checked in, left our luggage and do what we do best. Walk! We learned, from our Concierge, of a newly opened Gaudi Landmark. The Palau Guel, a home Gaudi designed and built for the industrialist and his “benefactor/friend”. We decided to walk and when the “museum” opened, we’d go.

Sunday morning in Barcelona is QUITE quiet! Nothing, I mean nothing is open! As out Concierge said, “Spaniards are lazy on Sunday’s, we don’t like to do much and when we do, it is later in the day” (as it should be?)!

The museum opened at 10, so we lined up and waited our turn. We were the fourth couple to enter. I have to say, this is the most sedate Gaudi I have seen, but also the most well….practical...perhaps. I absolutely LOVED his organization of space, use of materials and design. I’ve respected Gaudi’s work, this is absolutely stunning!

The restoration was completed in late 2011 (which explains why we hadn’t heard about it). We spent over 2 hours meandering through this space listening to a guided tour over a typical digital device one finds in a museum. When next in Barcelona, you MUST…PROMISE YOU WILL..go to the Palau Guel. Located just off La Ramblas, within the first block. You will be glad you did.

OK….back to the hotel. We were told that we could go to the rooftop and wait for our room. So, we did. OMFG…what a view!! There’s a bar, a pool and three “salons” These salons are u-shaped benches with vinyl pads (white) surrounded by jasmine (just happened to be in bloom…so subtly fragrant) with a canvas “roof” which provides necessary shade. We each got a sangria (so good) and split a ham and cheese focaccia.

Christopher went to check on the room – it was getting late, and they hadn’t called. Well, waiting paid off. We got upgraded to a “design room”. This room is really quite interesting. The bathroom is NOT for shy people, as the shower, all glass, is the “wall” between the bedroom and bathroom. The toilet? Push a side black wall and there you have it!! A door hidden in the wall and behind it a very private toilet. One nice touch…fragrance is pumped in, so the natural aromas emanating from the body are hidden at all times!!!!

The bed is quite firm (just the way I like it) and built in closets are quite functional. The luggage fits perfectly under the desk, clearly a lot of thought went into the design of the room. We jumped into our bathing suits and headed back up to the roof and into the pool. So refreshing. Christopher slept, I read and swam (not at the same time)!

Dinner was set for 8:30pm at Sauc in the Hotel. OMFG what a wonderful dinner. We dined for 3 and a half hours. We started with each receiving a green Italian olive and a black olive gelee each on a stick. The gelee tasted like a black olive, but had some sugar on it…so it was salty, sweet and savory al at the same time! We had the absolutely BEST “liver and onions” in EVER! The “liver” was a cream of Duck foie gras, with “fried” onions…which we not fried onions at all. I think the chef took minced onion, created a paste and fried this. What is revealed is a crispy, delightful onion flavor reminiscent of Frenched deep fried onions without the grease, and slimy aftertaste. Absolutely sublime. Each and every dish was a gastronomic work of art! The dinner was nicely paced, so we were not stuffed at the end.

OK…dessert…..there were three, but the most memorable was a chocolate dome concealing vanilla ice cream, the waiter poured hot caramel syrup over the chocolate dome melting everything into a chocolate, vanilla, caramel soup. OMFG!!!!! Oh, by the way….this is a Michelin Star Restaurant. Best hotel restaurant I’ve ever eaten in…anywhere in the world!! SO GOOD!

After dinner we had to go for a walk. Leaving the hotel, we walked into the warm, somewhat humid Barcelona air and strolled around the block. Back to the hotel and off to bed.

Where I stayed

Hotel Ohla Barcelona - Via Laietana 49, Barcelona, SpainI rated this place 5/5 - You won't be sorry; this hotel is a MUST!We absolutely LOVE this hotel, and will be back! The rooftop bar is spectacular, the pool cool and refreshing with the best views in town. If ever you find yourselves in Barcelona, you MUST stay here!!Hotel Ohla Barcelona - Via Laietana 49, Barcelona, SpainI rated this place 5/5 - You won't be sorry; this hotel is a MUST!We absolutely LOVE this hotel, and will be back! The rooftop bar is spectacular, the pool cool and refreshing with the best views in town. If ever you find yourselves in Barcelona, you MUST stay here!!

The Sagrada Familia

Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain and Canary Islands
Monday, September 15, 2014

September 15, 2014

I got little or no sleep last night. Someone had a bit of a sinus issue so…well…..it was a little loud. There was also a light (our converter/charger) – which was driving me nuts…so I pulled it out of the wall. The alarm went off way, WAY too early for my liking. BUT….we have a tour of La Sagrada Familia and we don't want to miss it.

We inhaled breakfast because we thought the tour was at 10:30…..it was at 10am – and it was 9am when we discovered the error! OOPS. SO…I’m tired, no coffee, inhaled breakfast and we have a tour. Oh, I’m in GREAT shape for today.

La Sagrada Familia…..WOW! It will be finished in 2030! The interior space is complete and dedicated by Pope Benedict a few years ago. The space is vast and breathtaking. Gaudi wanted the interior space to resemble a forest. Mission accomplished. We took the Passion Towers Tour. This gives us the opportunity to take a lift to the top of the tower, and either walk or take the lift down. We walked down. Overall, we spent over three hours in the "temple" as Gaudi referred to it. So spectacular.

We left the neighborhood of LSF heading off to find lunch; me weary and running on empty. We had planned to go to a tapas bar by the hotel we stayed at in 2011. As we meandered through the shady streets (avoiding the sun, even though it wasn’t too hot today) we ended up in front of our current hotel. Spent, tired and beyond hunger, we chose to dine once again at the hotel. AND…once again we were blown away! We had Contemporary Tapas with glass of white wine…SO GOOD. Octopus over potato, spicy Catalan potato slices in a wonderfully spicy sauce, chicken stuffed “cannelloni” with a sauce which required a rich wheat bread (which we did not order) to sop up the sauce….SO, not shy I spooned the sauce and savored every last drop! Jamon (ham) croquettes…perfectly fried and NOT at all greasy! Lunch was perfection. Back to the room to change shoes.

Refreshed and fortified, we set off for La Boqueria, yet another Market! We love this place. We went on a mission to find our favorite “spice Lady”…..gone. Her store was closed up. So sad. We found the same pimento we like from a different storefront and bought it! Now, off to find our favorite Gelateria. OH NO…gone. We both remember the location as being at the front entrance to the market. Not there, replaced by another Jamon store. Oh well…strike two. So…we walked up La Ramblas and found another Amorino Gelateria and had theirs. I’m telling you….you will LOVE IT! Check to see in your area if they’re there yet.

Along the way, we ran into a lovely couple we met on the cruise (who also happened to be sitting just behind us on our flight to Amsterdam) and chatted for a bit. They head home tomorrow. We head off to Rome! I’d rather be in my shoes…

My feet are tired, my body done in…so much so I didn’t have the energy to go up to the pool. Needing a nap, but want to sleep tonight! Tomorrow our flight is set for 11:30am. Hope we don’t have to get to the Airport too early!! I want to relax and not feel rushed in the morning! UGH….this means packing again! Oh well…..

The Eternal City!

Rome, Lazio, Italy
Tuesday, September 16, 2014

September 16, 2014

Why is packing SUCH a pain in the A$$?

Done with the nasty chore and down to breakfast in the Café downstairs. BEST coffee EVER…well, other than my own.

We had a relaxing breakfast, but I'm feeling a little sinus "issue" coming on. CRAP. Did I get Christopher’s cold? UGH…. Didn’t sleep well, because of my sinuses (hope I didn’t keep someone else up…..No, he says…whew)!

Off to the airport and Rome. The Barcelona Airport is quite easy to maneuver and quite modern with a terrific mall inside – which has it “all”…or so it claims. First we had to check in at Alitalia…..why, WHY do airlines make it difficult to travel?

We each have 2 bags to check, and one carry-on. Well…..Alitalia charges you for the second bag (and it AIN’T cheap, let me tell you)! So, we go to check in and incur the ire of the gate attendant. It seems when we checked in (on line) we didn’t indicate we had so many bags….HORRORS. So we go over to the Air France side to “buy” a ticket for our luggage. Did I mention it wasn’t cheap? Anyway…….did you know there was an Air France Pilot strike going on? We didn’t either, until that moment. We were stuck in a line with a LOT of angry customers. Why does customer service have to be so challenging? It isn’t that hard people…..but it DOES help if the person behind the counter shows a little empathy…..and there isn’t a language barrier. There were two Asian customers who were LIVID, not very nice (don’t know how I’d be in that situation…but DO have memories of my days at Neiman’s, so I do know how to get what I want)…..anyway it took FOREVER to pay for our bags….SCALPED US!!!!!

Bags now have their tickets, and we go to the head of the line, where a French traveler with his family is embroiled in a heated argument with the Alitalia check-in attendant re: luggage and the strike….like its her fault. He over packed one bag, and was going to be fined, she suggested VERY NICELY that they repack their suitcases and “spread the weight”……SO, what does this idiot do? He opens his suitcase (mumbling in French as he goes) and begins to throw the clothes at his family. Anger management issue? I just LOVE watching people…..particularly fools in public.

We are finally done with the drama and make our way to the gate. Did I mention Barcelona has a lovely airport?? Didn’t do any shopping…just sat and read waiting for them to announce our gate. What they do here is wait until the plane arrives at the gate, then tell you where to go…..kinda last minute, as you gotta make your way to the gate as people are deplaning. Hmmm……traffic management perhaps?

On the plane. Feeling a little better, sinuses fine. No problems! YES.

The flight was uneventful, other than the guy who clobbered me with his backpack as he took it off, he did apologize, but my glasses literally flew off my face. CLOD. At last, we have landed. BEST landing EVAH! Didn’t even feel the plane hit the ground….I’m thinking this guy has done this before. I hope he’s the same pilot we have in 2 weeks from Rome back to Barcelona!!

Fiumicino! That’s all one needs to know. Anyone who’s ever been there knows EXACTLY what I mean. MADNESS. We get off the plane and head to collect our luggage. Imagine my surprise and delight upon arrival at baggage claim, when I see our luggage traveling around the carousel all alone. OK, what happened? Did our luggage make it on an earlier flight? Did we get some sympathy for the OUTRAGEOUS prices they charge for an additional bad? Hmmm…..not going to look a gift horse in the mount. On the ground for less than five minutes with all our luggage and waiting for a TAXI. That HAS to be some record!!!

Our driver was a DELIGHT! Funny, young and a devoted father who drove his child to school this morning for her first day. Too cute. We chatted in mixed English-Italian and each was ab le to understand the other. Nice. SO, now, we are on the ground and in a cab and in Rome in less than 35 minutes. THIS IS A GOOD SIGN!

Well….not so much. Got to the Hotel….well, not really AT the hotel, but CLOSE. Since the Piazza Spagna is now a “Zona Pedonale” (and NO, that does NOT mean a place for pedophiles); it means NO CARS! And that includes Taxi’s (when coming from certain parts of the city)!! Coming from the airport, he could only get us so close, from there, we’re on our own…..SCHLEPPING. OOOHHHH, our favorite thing to do in Europe, NOT. Cobblestones are NOT luggage friendly, just saying.

Our hotel is the Hotel Art, in via Margutta. Nice from the outside…seems promising. The lobby/restaurant is cool. GREAT art collection (duh)…this looks REALLY promising. Up to the room….CRAP! Not so promising. TINY, I mean SMALL room with a small bathroom. Oh well! Can’t win 'em all. We unpacked and decided to take a walk (did I mention this place was small?).

Our first objective FOOD. We decided to go for a walk, and get ourselves situated. Now, Christopher has an AMAZING sense of direction. He can get anywhere in any city but one. His Kryptonite? ROME! He’s the first to admit it. Our first time in Rome together (2007) we had a marital bliss moment arguing about a direction. I KNEW I was right, and so did he…..we went back and forth and both of us refused to give in. I kept on walking, while discussing WHY he was wrong (we needed to be closer to the river, and cross the bridge to get to our destination (Castel San’Angelo) SO…as I kept on walking in my direction (which he KNEW was wrong) we ended up right where I wanted us to be…..the Bernini Bridge. I WIN. From that moment on, he never doubted my sense of direction…..in Rome that is. Anywhere else…..fuggedaboutit!

We ended up on a little side street near the Trevi Fountain and stopped in for some food. PIZZA and a little Pinot Grigio to cut the heat and slake our hunger. Really good pizza. Headed toward the fountain, we were surprised to see it completely covered with scaffolding (gotta buy stock in scaffolding company in Europe) – they are doing a restoration of the fountain. Couldn’t see much, and they had a little “pond” where one can stand and throw a coin over one’s head. We chose not to participate…..we HATE lines!

We continued wandering around Rome and then headed back to the Piazza and our new temporary home for a week. Did I mention it was HOTTER THAN HELL? And HUMID? Well, it was. Geesh! We needed A/C and needed it now, so back to the warren we call a room and a shower, and then…..who knows?

Hand in Mouth...not this time!

September 17, 2014<br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" />OK…our mission for the day……Boccca della Verità…remember the famous scene from Roman Holiday? Up and out after a quick breakfast in the hotel, and into the HEAT and HUMIDITY which is Rome. WOW, it gets hot fast in this town, even in September! Note to self…..Rome is a winter city! <br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" />Given my proven skills for directions, I lead us not into temptation, but into the mouth of truth. We walked, in the shade whenever possible, through interesting passages, and quaint Piazzas and from a distance I saw our destination. But, wait…..why is there a HUGE trailer and light bouncing screens up? Why are there lines of cops? What's going on? A MOVIE…Seriously? We come ALL this way to be put off by a freaking MOVIE? OK…..anyone I recognize? Are you KIDDING with this….a foreign film (Asian cast, Italian crew)? Not even a chance to see a hot star or starlet. HARUMPH, not happy!<br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" />Diverted by the damned film crew….we couldn’t get within 10 feet of the damned thing. UGH. This was the ONLY thing I wanted to see in the City Center, and no way! So, we walked over to Trastevere, the "Jewish Ghetto". So interesting. We did what we typically do – walk and decide at the corner which way to go. Each time we are eager with anticipation as to what lies ahead. Never disappointed with our choices, we find something spectacular to behold.<br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" />So, remember my sinus issue? Well, now, I’ve got a runny nose and watery right eye. Nice. NOT NOW! Please….not now. I’m now on a mission to find something to dry my sinuses. Musinex? Nope. Everything has Sudafed in it, and I’m allergic to it. So, into a nice Farmacia I go and a lovely, VERY helpful woman and I try to figure out what will dry me out. Mio Sinus non funzione bene, seco, anything to seco my mucus? She understood me. Handed me some tablet and…oops….Sudafed. NOPE. We settled on a tablet that dissolves in hot water, and called it a day.<br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" />Back at the hotel, I was DONE. Coughing, dripping nose and quite tired. OH JOY! Oh, and my eye looks SO cute all red.

Ostia Antica

Rome, Lazio, Italy
Thursday, September 18, 2014

September 18, 2014

I awoke looking like a zombie! My right eye was sealed shut. I think I lost a few lashes. My eye is CRIMSON, my nose is quite prolific and I'm now starting t worry about a sinus infection. As long as the mucus doesn’t change color, I’m good. This is NOT fun. Oh, and NOW my throat is killing me. Hurts to swallow, I’m tired and really not happy.

Our plan for the day is Ostia Antica, the original port of Rome, way back when. We get directions from our concierge and hit the streets of Rome. So, have you ever ridden the Rome Metro at rush hour? Well….DON’T! OMG……we were stuffed like sardines in a can. Christopher’s arm was pushed into my diaphragm, which made my struggle to get air even harder. I begged him to move an inch in the other direction with what breath I could muster, but he too was so tightly packed he couldn’t. We only need to go three stops or so, and then it should be fine.

We arrived at the Termini station to transfer from the Red to the Blue line and the doors opened. We all fell out like tomatoes from a can. Clearly someone from behind had decided to move, and we all moved in one huge mass of people; whether you wanted to or not! I was SO GLAD to get off that Metro. Never again at rush hour. NEVER!

We made it to the station, San Polo to get to Ostia Antica. We asked which train was going our way, and were told to go to track 4. SO….we go. And we get on a train which is COVERED in graffiti. Inside and out. No A/C. It is HOT and HUMID. We sit. And we sit. Nothing. All of the other trains come and go, train #4, on track #4 just sits there. Do we get off? What if we get off and the train goes? No one else is getting on this godforsaken train. There’s no schedule posted. I’m not feeling well, it is hot and humid, I’m tired and getting a teeny bit cranky. Just a teeny bit….so I decide to make a run for it. Off the train, I ask another agent which train is going to Ostia….track 6 in four minutes. Christopher and I make a run for it. On the train and so are other people, this looks good! I look back at poor old train #4…it was taken out of service! Could THAT have been the announcement, made over the crackling loudspeaker (not unlike NYC) unintelligible and in Italian to boot? I’m guessing YES!

We sit, and not a moment later a loud mouthed woman, on her phone is speaking in some unintelligible dialect or another language. I understand NOTHING, but she still chooses to include the ENTIRE car in her conversation. Nice. Guess rude cellphone use is universal! She, not unlike those on MUNI, has BOTH earphones in, and therefore has NO idea as to how loudly she’s speaking. The German gentleman sitting across from me was making fun of her, rather loudly as well, and she had NO CLUE. This is going to be a LONG ride. Was that thunder I heard? Oh no. At least this is a NICE train, A/C and no graffiti.

OK, starting to worry. People are getting on at some stops with wet umbrellas. GREAT! I’m sick, in shorts, it is hot and humid AND it is raining! Kill me now. Christopher brings the wet umbrellas to my attention….well, too late to do anything about it now. We’re gonna get wet. Well…..now it starts to POUR….in answer to my previous question, yes, indeed it was thunder. Seriously? Is this the way the trip is going to continue? If so, I’m OUT!

The rain lasted for 2 stops. One more to go and let’s see what Ostia looks like.

We arrive at the station. Not raining. Blue skies. YEAH, I do my happy no rain dance, which is very much like my happy luggage dance, only without the luggage! Clearly, it has rained, hard and fast. The puddles were big, not deep and everything was wet. At least the rain cooled things off…for now anyway!

We walked over the freeway and at last….Ostia Antica. We paid, went in and were wowed!! What a place. Amazing to walk among the ruins of such an advanced society and from such an early age. This is unbelievable! We walked for three hours and enjoyed every minute. You have to keep your eyes open at all times, even when the zombie red eye doesn’t want to play. Wherever you look there’s some amazing ancient item to behold. At one point, I noticed a small white square tile, clearly from a mosaic somewhere. No one would notice, will they? Surely, given Italy's economy, those signs warning of video surveillance are just as a deterrent….right? Who is gonna notice one teeny tile? I thought long and hard….and decided it wasn’t worth a federal rap in an Italian prison. We were warned at the entrance to leave everything as we find it. WIMP.

Back on the train to Rome. No A/C, graffiti…..I guess they got old #4 working.

We got to the terminal in Rome and decided to get our tickets for Florence early, so we could get the train we wanted. The line at the ticket office was nonexistent. Seriously? Something going right for me today? YEAH!!!!! Wait, what does that sign say? Are you kidding me? EVERYONE is taking lunch at the same time? Stop it Jim, it’s Italy! Yes….everyone is taking their lunch, and the people who want to purchase a ticket will just have to wait. OR….go to the self-service ticket machine. Which is our choice. Um, No…..don’t try to do it in Italian, because you want to practice…..GET THE DAMNED TICKET AND LET’S GO! Ticket calmly acquired.

Back to Piazza Spagna and maybe a little shopping…..after a shower, change and a sinus drain. Now my voice has become silent. MUCH to Christopher’s relief.

Cleaned up and ready for a little retail therapy. We have one store and one store only in mind…..Fratelli Rossetti. SHOES…..Christopher’s greatest weakness. They are so comfortable for me as well, this could be an expensive evening. It was. That’s all I’m going to say on the matter. We each bought a pair of shoes, and Christopher had a Coat he liked brought in for him. She would have it by Saturday. Oh, this is going to hurt…a lot! Oh, by the way…..our shoes are GORGEOUS, and so different than anything we’ve ever purchased there. BE, we did you PROUD!

Drop off the shoes, and off to dinner. We found this nice little Enoteca VERY modern, very good and not expensive….the trifecta! Food great. Wine great, and for the life of me….I can’t remember the name. One thing, they specialize in all things from the region of Lazio. Sorry. After dinner we discuss what to bring to my family as a thank you for lunch. Wine? Chocolates? Pastry? Candle? Room Fragrance (and tell them their house stinks…ah NO)! So, Christopher has a brain storm of pure genius. Just around the corner from the really cool restaurant we like. La Duree has a store in Rome. So we select some French macaroons and have them wrapped in a nice package (24 for each day) as a present. Whew that’s DONE!

The heart of my Family

L'Aquila, Abruzzo, Italy
Friday, September 19, 2014

September 19, 2014, Friday.

Today is the day I've been planning for at least three years. I’m at LAST going to meet Pierangelo, his mother, Gabriella and her husband, Piero. We are driving to L’Aquila – the capital of the Abruzzo, where my mother’s family is from. My maternal grandmother is also from the Abruzzo, a tiny walled city called Assergi. We had thought my grandfather was born there as well, but as I recently learned, he was born in Fossa. Now, Fossa isn’t a long way as the crow flies; but it is a LONG way across the valley from Assergi. One is a small mountain town on one side of the valley, and one is just opposite the other on the other side of the valley and up the mountain a bit. How the heck did my pregnant great grandmother get from one city to the other? My grandfather, the youngest of seven, always thought he was born in Assergi. Well, he wasn’t!

OK. Did I mention I was driving from Rome? I. DROVE. IN. ROME. And, I lived to tell the story! We had rented the car from Hertz before we left. Selected the location for its proximity to our hotel, and the fact that they had a 24 hour garage, where I could return the car. We decided to get FULL insurance, and GPS to guide us on our way to L’Aquila. No turning back now!

In the car, a FIAT 500, like we have at home, with one minor change…5 speed. I love driving a 5 speed at times (when it is flat and I’m on a highway…..in San Francisco….NO FREAKING WAY EVER AGAIN!). We had the language on the TomTom changed to English and the route set. Pierangelo had provided us with the address, and we are off.

Well, not so fast. Ya see….TomTom only works when there is a satellite signal that it can receive. I was driving, confident that Christopher had secured the TomTom. Um, why wasn’t the little voice telling me where to go? UM, honey…..why isn’t she saying anything? Um, I’ve got to go and I have NO idea where I’m driving…oh, shit did you see that Vespa? Oh, crap, there’s another one coming at me passing me on my right, and another one on my left. Um, honey…..let’s not have a replay of Florence to Siena 2007, please. TELL ME WHERE I HAVE TO TURN AND TELL ME NOW! So, the nice lady is still giving me the silent treatment.

We decide to pull over and stop. Oh, I hope that honk wasn’t for me….no it wasn’t. Good. OK. Now is she ready? Christopher asks if it works when parked….fair question, but I’m thinking… REALLY? It is a freaking satellite…..it just needs to get a connection! OH Sweet Agustus, JUST GIVE THAT MACHINE A SIGNAL! We have lunch plans, and I’ve waited so long, and this car isn’t cheap, and it’s my family, and I don’t want to keep them waiting, and there are so many cars, and so many Vespas and I JUST WANT TO GET TO L’AQUILA in one piece. TURN LEFT. What? Turn left after 50 yards…oh sweet Augustus, she has come back from the dead and no more silent treatment! At last.

So, I follow directions. Um, honey, what does she mean by bear right, there’s only one way to go…forward? What did she say? Where? Are we? WHAT? OK CRAP. Maybe we should have just bought a map. Finally. I see s sign for the A24 which is the road to L’Aquila and my ancestral family home. This may work!

What is that pinging? Did I do something? Why is she pinging me? OK, no wait, no what’s she PINGING ME FOR? I’m sot stressed or anything, can you tell? My knuckles are WHITE. The A/C is on full blast, and I’m not even chilled. I’m in a sweat and thinking….my dad did this with six people in a car not much bigger than this. I certainly can do this too. Turns out, after much investigation from my human navigator, the pinging is warning us of video cameras. OK, what IS it with the Italians and their damned video cameras? Note to self…..invest in scaffolding and video cameras!

The relaxing drive – once we got on the A24 took over an hour, closer to 90 minutes. We drove through a bunch of tunnels and switched lanes from northbound lanes to southbound lanes (because they like to do this in Italy when working on roads…..and evidently they REALLY like to work on roads in Italy). Oh, and the merge onto the highway….about 10 feet…..and cars on the A24 are driving at oh……80 MPH. No problem! Did I mention I was driving a 5 speed manual transmission? Getting a clear picture?

Well, she did her job and we arrived safely in L’Aquila. Good Grief…..the construction cranes!! Even more here than in SF!! We counted 45 in about 10 seconds…well, Chris did….remember….I was doing the driving. Eyes on the road Jim. Take the middle left. WTF???

My cousins live atop a hill on a tiny road, big enough for one car…..did I mention this is a 2 way street? Ah, yeah! I parked the car and shook it off. We got to the gate, pressed the call button. The gate magically opened, and to the window comes Gabriella and at the door, Pierangelo…..I recognize both from facebook. La mia Famiglia!!!!! At last!

Gabriella and Piero speak no English. Pierangelo is fluent and speaks English quite well…..thank goodness. Their condo is just lovely, exactly as I pictured it. They are warm, and greet me as if they knew me all my life. This was our first meeting. Family. Gabriella comments on my high forehead, VERY Lalli she says…and so very true. I resemble the Cascio side of the family (Maternal Grandmother) and know no one from that side. This is a day I shall remember forever! We present the macaroons and all are pleased. Evidently, genes don’t lie…..the Lalli’s have a sweet tooth!!!!

Gabriella is related to me via our grandfathers; my grandfather and hers were brothers, and our mothers were first cousins. We sat and chatted before lunch. My Italian, and Christopher’s …. Now hit into hyper drive. Somehow, someway…our broken Italian became fluid and easily understood. When necessary Pierangelo would come to our rescue, which wasn’t often. Where was Karen?? We NEED her to hear us!!! She would have been so impressed…and so proud we think/hope.

Lunch was served. Pierangelo warned me, they EAT a big lunch. I seem to remember that from my previous visits with family in 1968. BUT this? This was a feast. A selection of salumi prosciutto, mortadella, and cheese to start. Then pasta….Arriabata (angry…meaning spicy). Yup, we’re related! Then veal medallions with a carrot and onion sauce (typical for a wedding or celebratory event I’m told) – boy, do I feel honored. Then we are served a beautiful salad with fresh tomatoes full of flavor with a simple vinegar and oil…more and more like home with every course. After the salad, fruit. The wine was local, as was everything else. I think one of the cousins produced the wine or something. I DO know, the amarro (after lunch bitter drink) was made by Piero. It is a fermented root and considered an Abruzzo tradition. It is bitter, but enjoyable and meant to set the digestion in action. After that meal what I needed was a nap! Oh, then the macaroons came out. I passed. Too full.

Time for pictures. One picture made the hair on my arms stand up; it was an image of her grandfather, Gianbatista Lalli. I couldn’t believe it. I was looking at a picture of my Uncle Bruno (Mom’s older brother – father to my cousins Sandy & Bruce), I SWEAR! This is an image of my uncle with a handlebar moustache!! Good grief…DNA doesn’t lie!! What an AMAZING day.

Time for a walk. We drive, I know, I Know…Trust me…I didn’t drive. First stop. The famous 99 heads fountain. L’Aquila was settled by 99 "counts" so the number is VERY important to the city’s heritage. The fountain looked in great shape after the destruction and damage from the 2009 Earthquake. Nicely done, but I thought it was closer to the center of town…..NOPE! Next stop, the main Church. Constructed from the same stone as the fountain. Beautiful façade, but the roof had collapsed in the quake. So much damage. It was recently opened with a temporary roof of steel.

We then drove to the castle, more of a fortress than a home to royalty (typical for this region). Didn’t go in…..too much damage. A Renzo Piano structure sits in front of the Castle. Both Chris and I liked it…..evidently we are in the minority on that one! He donated his services, and another region donated the money and materials to construct the building which is a “concert hall”….but rather small for its purpose. Pierangelo tells us tickets sell out FAST, because there are so few seats.

From here, we walked around the old “centro storico”; or historic town of L’Aquila. SO very, VERY sad to see SO MUCH devastation….after 5 years! Everyone says, give it 10 years more, and L’Aquila will be back. There is NO ONE “downtown” any more. Nothing but construction workers, scaffolding and cranes. So very sad. We didn’t take any pictures, as Chris said…it just felt wrong to take any pictures.

We got back to the apartment, and in true Italian mother form, Gabriella wanted to make sure we weren’t hungry for anything more. TRUST ME! We weren’t!! Time to go, it was 5:30 and I didn’t want to drive in Rome in the dark…..bad enough in full sun…..imagine when the sun goes down? I SHUDDER!

The drive back was VERY quiet. I think Christopher and I were processing the day. The quality of our Italian, Gabriella and Pierangelo complemented us both on our accents and ability to speak and be understood....even though she corrected us a few times - the amount of food, the devastation of L’Aquila and most important…..family. Meeting my Italian family…priceless.

OK…..she’s giving me the silent treatment AGAIN! Bitch. Just as we approach Rome, TomTom decides to lose the signal…..WHY?????? SO, she comes to from her stupor immediately as I have to decide, at 75 miles an hour (just to keep up with traffic) which turn to take. She suggests I bear right, then left then right again and turn left. WTF….she’s one crazy disembodied voice!! I have two options…..left turn or right turn. I opt for the right turn…I was right. WHEW! I have Christopher telling me to “go this way”….right…..like I’m looking at his hands as he’s telling me…I remind him that I’m NOT LOOKING WHERE HE’S POINTING…PLEASE TELL ME WHICH WAY AND NOT….this way! OK, he says…follow the car in front of us. SO…I follow (thank goodness he’s looking at TomTom)!!!

Now….if you’ve ever driven in Rome you know what I’m about to share…..Lane Lines are merely a suggestion. Stop signs are merely a suggestion. Stop Lights are obeyed, but often run….red is the new orange. Vespa Drivers THINK they have the right of way. Pedestrians THINK they have the right of way. Drivers in cars THINK they have the right of way. Basically, driving in Rome is a contact sport, but thankfully I did NOT make any contact! I need a drink. I’m SO glad I only had one glass of wine at lunch. I need a bottle of something STRONG right about now.

Drop off the car. Walk back to the hotel and collapse. No dinner tonight. Gelato will suffice.

I’m not a believer, but something in my heart told me both my parents were very proud of me today!

La Mia Famiglia Masciocchi!!

Montelibretti, Lazio, Italy
Saturday, September 20, 2014

September 20, 2014

OK, if yesterday was any indication, today has the potential of being wonderful. Today, we're going to Montelibretti, Lazio the ancestral home of the Masciocchi clan. Nervous. You BET! My Italian is probably as good as their English….oy. This could be a quick visit. Today has the potential of being a disaster, or the best day EVAH. Only time will tell……

So…off to Hertz to get the car and head out of town. I gird my loins and off we go. Oh yeah….the visit may be cut short because my eyes, YES…BOTH are red and oozing at this point. So much fun! Clean out the goo, use all drops available and hope for the best. I'm hacking up my lungs and hoping I’m not contagious. Zombie man is on his way to Montelibretti….can’t pull out now.

I get to the Hertz counter and give my name. I ALMOST begin to spell it when the woman behind the counter pulls the reservation up and has me on my way….with TomTom (bitch better behave…just sayin’)! I don’t have to spell my name? That’s a first!

We get the car, Christopher gives TomTom a boot and set the directions for Montilebretti. I’m hoping I can remember how to get out of town….AS IF! So…she comes to life and we’re off. She’s doing great. We’re doing great…..then SILENCE. I’m driving in Rome, dodging Vespas, dodging other cars….a Vespa is in my lane headed RIGHT for me. And she decides to go silent NOW? REALLY! I hate TomTom. Hertz, your "never lost" should be called maybe we’ll get you there, or not, depends. Christopher discovers she has come undone…like me, right? No, the plug came out. How, I ask. Not really caring, PLUG IT IN! NOW. All plugged in, and I see a blue sign for Rieti & Montelibretti. Headed in the right direction….whew.

The drive to Montelibretti is quick, about 30 minutes. I had NO idea it was THIS close!! How many times have I been to Rome? We arrived in the Town Center with a memorial to the WWI Fallen Heroes of Montelibretti. WOW…..they lost a lot of men!! This isn’t a big city, more like a small village. I messaged my cousin Catia who said she’d meet me after the church. But, wait….this is Saturday. She knew I was coming today….did I read it right? Go back. Reread. Another text…do you see me? OOPS….clearly I misread (rather, incorrectly translated the original message)….No…I’m not nervous. MUCH!

The original message, was meet me at the church! DUH. In the car and head for, we hope, the church. Not a big town, shouldn’t be too hard. After we round the bend in the road, I see Catia. OMG….it is THE church! I’ve been inside this church! I pull over, hugs all around, and off we go to her house…..Which is BEAUTIFUL. She calls it old. It is. Been in her husband’s family for a while. This house is beautiful. I love it. A typical Italian village home, probably built eons ago. Wood beamed ceilings, brick and plaster. No drywall here. I’m remembering that we had planned lunch, but the table isn’t set. Maybe we’re going out to eat, the same place that her Uncle Mario had his reception dinner in 1968, when we crashed the wedding….and I first met Catia. She remembers it like yesterday, me…not like she does! I DO remember playing with two girls (that would have been Catia and cousin Norma – one year apart). Oh yeah, the church where we were "supposed" to meet….same church where Her Uncle Mario was married, and my Aunt Lucy – 20 years previously, was married. YES, this town holds a LOT of family history!!!!!

We meet Catia’s STUNNING daughter, Giordana. She is beautiful. Thick long curly hair which frames a truly beautiful face. Flawless skin and a beautiful smile complete the visage. WOW! She’s in LICEO “High School”, studying the Classics, so she’ll learn Greek, Latin and then take her tests. She goes to school in Rome. SO..she’ll speak at least four languages by the time she is in college. And we think our students are best educated…HAH!!!!!

Son Cristiano is upstairs sleeping, Husband Antonello is at work before lunch (on a Saturday?)….poor guy!

We sit at the table sipping a delightful orange colored sparkling bitter (amaro) beverage…quite like it actually. And here it comes. Lunch is at her cousin’s house, just a little drive away….and EVERYONE will be there. GULP. HUH? I thought it was a simple lunch with Catia’s family, and MAYBE her father and sister. NOPE.

We arrived at the house, another charming typical Italian Village home. A HUGE home by any country’s standards….two or three stories, huge walk-out basement with the MOST amazing woodwork (more on that later). We ae greeted by a few people – all my cousins…and PLEASE don’t ask me to remember their names. At this point, I’m a little overwhelmed. Piacere, kiss kiss, handshake…..I’m Jim. Repeat. We walk into the house…..the room is set for 30 places! WTF? 30 cousins here to welcome ME? No pressure. Nope, no pressure at all. Um….does anyone speak English? That is besides Chris Please….anyone? Well….after introductions there are three who can speak some English. Cousin Dario; Cristiano – Catia’s son and one other tall REALLY thin cousin from the same generation whose name escapes me. Big Surprise! I DO remember he’s going on to study Economics. Their English is good, but guess what….we didn’t need it!!

OK….everyone is in the house and they start to pour Mimosas. Hmmmm…I think this is going to turn out VERY well….my kind of lunch. Everyone has their drink and they do a “brindisi” to me! So much fun, I LOVE being the center of attention. Who wouldn’t under the circumstances? Everyone is talking at once (typical Masciocchi trait); thank goodness NOT at me. Christopher is in a state of shock (where did all these people come from and WHO are they); then the camera comes out. In typical Masciocchi fashion it takes forever to get the shot ready and then nothing happens (sorry Dad….I now know where it came from)…..in your DNA!! Finally cameras situated, “shooter” ready….there were MANY, placement is set and Say Cheese…universal. I think there were maybe 8 or 10 cameras going off. Had to get ours in as well, so Christopher jumps out – which creates a stir….NO. No….you go in I’LL take the picture, no me, NO ME, no I’ll do it (all in Italian of course)….I put a stop to it and relegated Christopher to camera monitor for this last shot…..who was I kidding…..last shot….HA! Picture captured…let’s eat!!

But……before we eat they want to show me the oven. The oven. Big deal, an oven is an oven. Um…..WRONG. This thing is a freaking IGLOO! There’s this HUGE wood fire oven in the kitchen. I look in and know I’m in trouble – this meal is not only going to be amazing, but we’re going to be sitting at the table for a while. There was enough food to feed the Italian Armed Services!! With an oven of this size, you’d think the kitchen would be hot. Nope. Cool and comfortable. That sucker is well insulated. How badly to I want this house??!!

OK….Lunch. Mind you this was LUNCH. We ate for three hours. I’m NOT kidding you.

The meal started with trays and TRAYS of meats……salami, prosciutto, mortadella; then the melon came out. Your choice of wine….red or white. Made by Mario, Catia’s father – who turns 81 tomorrow and looks like he’s about 60, with grey hair and fit as a fiddle. Dad looked pretty young for his age – maybe I have a chance????? Back to the food….Did I mention the bread? Focaccia, Ciabatta, Crusty Italian breads of every kind and shape…..did they bake this? Some yes, others….ya know there’s this great bakery in town!

After the sliced meats and melon out comes the fagiolini. Made by one of the Uncles. Thick sauce with chunks of pig skin (which I ate and LOVED…so did Christopher, but I didn’t tell him what it was…..is that bad?). Next came some potatoes and mixed vegetables which I spiced up with some homemade pepperoncino (well, home grown and ground “a casa”). WOW….that was spicy! As Catia warned me, picante, molto picante, she was not kidding. I got a little heavy handed with it…..that was some hot stuff. The pasta al forno (otherwise known as lasagna) was next…SO GOOD! A meat sauce, naturally homemade…and SO GOOD. Following the lasagna, roasted lamb and roasted chicken. I was SO FULL, but what could I do? I ate the lamb, and passed on the chicken. Good choice…the lamb was the most tender and flavorful lamb I’ve EVER eaten! The meat fell off the bone and was so very moist…..sheer heaven. I’ll bet the chicken was just as good – it looked good, but there was no room….and I KNEW there was more to come. The salad was fresh, a mixture of radicchio, butter lettuce and endive. The tomatoes, as with the lettuce, were probably grown in the yard. The tomatoes had that deep red flesh, almost no seeds and SO tasty!! Oil, Vinegar a little salt and black pepper is all you need. OK…I’m about to BURST! STILL…..not done. Dessert was next. English Soup and Tiramisu. Now….English soup, or Zuppa Inglese is a chiffon cake SOAKED with Marsala wine and covered in whipped and pastry cream. I asked for half of a sliver – they fought me, but I won….tow of the smallest pieces of each cake were on my plate. I ate half of one and a little of the Tiramisu. Both were good, but really? I was DONE. Um….MORE to come!! Dopo dessert was the fruit course. Lovely fresh fruit spears of cantaloupe, grapes, watermelon, pineapple, prepared like a kabab. Presentation is everything, no? NOW….the food portion of the day was over. UNBELIEVABLE meal. Were they cooking for days? Who has this kind of time? I was SO overwhelmed by everything.

During dinner everyone wanted to share stories about my Father and his “behavior” at the wedding in 1968. Dad LOVED his family. Catia told the story of how we arrived at her grandfather’s home (now her father’s) and Dad burst into the kitchen asking for Mario Masciocchi. She went on to share the tears of joy her grandfather shed at our arrival. We were invited to the wedding (naturally) happening in a few hours (six more mouths to feed…seriously NOT a problem for this family)! I remember leaning against the stair wall on the landing because it was so very cool on that hot day (marble…felt SO GOOD). Catia remembered me napping in her room before the wedding. She was JUST a kid!! So was I. I remember the church, and walking from the ceremony to the reception. A few years later, when The Godfather came out, I experienced Cousin Bruno’s wedding ALL over again. Identical! Down to the passing of the “confetti” – Jordan almonds. How I longed to go to a wedding as a kid, JUST for those almonds. Surprised I never broke a tooth on them.

Massimo reminded me of Dad playing the fisarmonica (accordion…sounds better in Italian, doesn’t it). He asked what instrument I played. When I replied none, he was shocked. Everyone at the table played something or sang. I sang in school choirs and did musical productions, but I was NOT going to admit that at this point….I was afraid they’d ask me to perform! I know my family…..even when I don’t! Massimo is full of life. Robust, NOT SHY and a talented wood smith. He did all the wood in the room. Doors, trim, moldings, shutters, even the 30 foot table we were eating on….I’m betting it is one piece of wood, the table that is. When I let him know dad was a “scultore di legno” his eyes lit up. He was thrilled to learn someone in the family shared his passion for working in wood. Must admit, Dad was VERY talented in that regard!

Everyone wants to know how many times I’ve been to Rome and Italy…..GULP! When I tell them how often, Massimo jumps in with a “well, why has it taken you so long to get here”…..the question I KNEW was coming and so feared had arrived!! Well….when I tell them how my learning Italian is recent, and that Dad died 20 years ago (is it THAT long ago?) and we didn’t know how to find anyone or who remained…and that Catia was the one who found me on facebook. Say what you will re: facebook – I’m loving that I’ve found SO many family members!! He and the rest of the family ws satisfied with my answer. Dodged that bullet!! Then they asked why none of the other members of my family had been to see them. I told them, I’d make SURE they knew they were welcomed! Sent an email at that moment to my siblings. Hope they got it.

After lunch they also served the amaro drink, made from the root of some plant, very much a part of the region. Interesting that both sides of the family, who do not know one another make the same drink and both make it at home from scratch. I make limoncello. They were surprised. The wines Mario made were wonderful – though I preferred the red to his white. I have a fondness for cabernet, sangiovese, and merlot – which comprised his wine. He clearly knows what he’s doing.

It turns out one of the cousins married a farmer. They grow olives and produce olive oil for themselves and sell to other manufacturers. They ALL wanted us to take something home…so….we have some packaged, sealed oil, marmalade and other items…..which way a ton…and I don’t know how I’m going to do it, but they are indeed coming home with me. I have every intention to use these cherished family gifts from the heart and made by their loving hands; and remember this most amazing day whenever I dip into the marmalade, or use the olive oil. Sigh. I love all things Italian.

After lunch, Zia Renata arrived. She’s 86, sharp and as a tack. A little soft spoken (at 86, who blames her). She begins to share family stories in her tiny voice. Evidently, she was at the wedding of my Aunt Lucy & Uncle Felice in 1948 (same year my parents wed). Well, this was SOME wedding. She said after the party, everyone said to get an American bride, because they know how to throw a good party! Zia is a retired teacher. I learn that all the female cousins who remained in Montelibretti are teachers! In the genes!!

We all move outside to digest our meal while fighting off the mosquitos. The view is stunning, the shade most welcome. It is HOT and humid today, no surprise. Outside we are greeted by Argo and Penelope. Argo is a black lab and he’s got a few years under his belt. Penelope is a yellow lab puppy. Her paws are HUGE, and she is so excited when she wags her tail her whole butt moves. Adorable. She just wants to play….with anyone who will say hi. This dog is hysterical. Argo is getting old, and has a problem walking, so he’s happy to watch Penelope jump all over the place. He even puts up with her tugging and snapping. Such a good boy….probably thinking….OY, kid go away…you’re bugging me! (In Italian of course). We sit and chat about everything and are able to communicate with one another very well. If we can’t get a word or thought across, hand gestures work wonders….just a hint to all you non Italians!! I learn that Cousin Dario has been to London to study English, and the youngest cousin (Paulo?) is just learning English….so when I ask him his age (in Italian) his father tells him to respond in English. Poor kid…he just wants to play with his friends, and this guy from California WRECKES my weekend, and NOW he wants me to speak English…..where’s my soccer ball…..but he sits and thinks long and hard. “Aye hayve height years old” – SO CUTE. Sweat pouring down his temple (remember it’s hot) and he’s having to perform….but his English will be very good one day. As I hope will my Italian.

Talking politics is never easy, for a lot of reasons, but we do it anyway. So, when my cousins ask about the ISL issue (don’t think bombings had started as of yet); I reply that we are tired of war. They get it. We talk about the economy, and unemployment issue in Italy (43%!o(MISSING)f Italian youth aged 18 – 25 are unemployed). We talk about the rich getting richer and the poor getting poorer; class war and globalization. SO, our problems are not so different.

Time for a walk. We hop in the car and head to the other part of town where the Castle is located. Again, this is a castle once used as a fortress. Now it is a private home (NICE). The views are AMAZING. Montilebretti sits on top of a hill and winds its way down. The castle, on the northwest part of town protects the ancient city located within its walls. The streets are more like narrow alleys. Certainly not big enough for a car, but big enough for a Vespa! We stop for pictures. We learn a little of the town history and where everyone lives in relation to one another. I learn that I have a Cousin Norma who lives in Firenze; a cousin in Dubai and another in Hanover. Interesting, who knew?

The sun is starting to set, I’m getting tired and I have to drive back to Rome. Catia asks if I’d like to take a nap, no thanks. I want to get to Rome before it gets dark…..driving in any unfamiliar city in the dark is a challenge. In Rome? It is a recipe for disaster!!! So, we get back to the house and say our goodbyes.

Part of me doesn’t want to leave.

We get in the car, back up, and head out of town. We are both silent for a while. Then Christopher asks if I’m OK. My response…..I think so. Then I tell him that I’m going to try to remember every single detail of this most perfect day. He reminds me that they did this all for you…..that’s HUGE. Yes. I know. To say I’m overwhelmed is an understatement. To say I’m overcome with joy, and sadness at the same time is also an understatement. If only dad had lived to see this!

The drive back continued in silence. An occasional beep from TomTom, but other than that it was pretty quiet. The closer we got to Rome, the more anxious I got. Would I see them again? (um YES you fool). Is it going to be hard to make it back to the parking garage? (um, Yes again). Is TomTom going to work….if she knows what’s good for her she had better.

Well…..she DID IT TO ME AGAIN! Silent treatment. I think there are satellite issues within the city of Rome (a warning might have been nice). We pull over and wait for a signal. Thankfully it comes fast. We get on track, are dodging Vespa’s, cars and people and safely return to the garage.

No dinner tonight. I’m still stuffed.

What an amazing few days.

Before I get home, I have friend requests from some of my cousins; even Norma, my cousin in Firenze! The end of a perfect day.

L'Eredità

Rome, Lazio, Italy
Sunday, September 21, 2014

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Still in recovery mode from yesterday. I have a seriously sore throat. My nose is dripping neon yellow fluid (I know, JUST what you wanted to read); my cough is back, I'm sneezing – this is NOT good! I’m exhausted.

We are going to take it easy today. So, we’ll go to the Outlet Mall just south of Rome. We take the bus from the Train Station and it is a 40 minute ride to the mall. We get there and a slight breeze greets us, which is a nice counterpoint to the hot blazing sun.

There are a bunch of great stores here. Our mission… Frette. We need new sheets. OK…we get to the Frette store and are MAJORLY disappointed!! So frustrating. The selection is limited at best, and the prices are no big deal. 20%!i(MISSING)s an outlet price? I think not!! One can do better shopping the sale at the branded store or on line!

Frette is out, so off to Loro Piana…..we did SO WELL with them back in 2010 – made out like bandits at their Chianti store. Here….not so much. The prices on clothing have exploded…still trying to figure out why? Nothing affordable, absolutely NOTHING! Not to mention the styles weren’t any great shakes. Oh well. So, now where?? Ferragamo. Hmmm, an interesting prior of shoes, but not what I’m looking for and there’s no reason to purchase something just because it has a great price. It has to have a utility…and I have to WANT it to pay those prices!!

So, the outlet mall is a complete and total BUST! Back to Rome we go.

Back in Rome it is hotter than hades and just as humid. Most unpleasant! The walk back to the hotel is long and difficult, as shade is HARD to come by! FINALLY…back in the "hood".

Last time we were in Rome, we had lunch with Paula, Steve and Beth, after a VERY successful F/R run (for some, not for others). ANYWAY…there was this cute little restaurant where we dined prior to me meeting my Cousin Catia in Piazza Navona. SO….we thought to go there in hopes of Christopher FINALLY getting the pasta he ordered then…..(it never arrived). Well, right next to this restaurant, is a charming modern establishment….we thought we’d try our luck here instead. SMART CHOICE! Lunch was AMAZING!! We both had a wonderful Pinot Grigio to accompany our pasta dish…..which was spectacular. I had the ricotta filled ravioli topped with a truffle butter sauce, YUM. Want to know what Christopher had….you’ll have to ask him, if he remembers. I’m the one with the great memory in the family, so good luck! Whatever it was…I CAN tell you he loved it!!

After lunch we walked around a bit more, still in the shade whenever possible, and then finally went back to the hotel.

I was done in. I peeled my clothes from my sticky skin, threw them on the bed and crawled into the shower. I didn’t care how cold it was, it couldn’t be cool or cold enough to bring my body temperature down to an acceptable level. New rule…..no land travel in the summer unless ABSOLUTELY necessary! Neither of us can deal with this! Cruises are different….aren’t there exceptions to every rule?

We finally were able to muster ourselves after a viewing of our new favorite game show (WHAT, AYFKM…game shows…what have we reduced ourselves to?)…eredità! The show is fascinating to watch, and some of the categories are about Italian grammar – like the conjugation of verbs etc. Comforting to know that even the native speakers goof up the conjugations every now and then!! ANYWAY……we went out to get a gelato. Made it over to our favorite gelato place, in Rome, near the Pantheon they offer 150 flavors and the place is always packed. Worth the wait, trust me. If you are walking past the Pantheon up the street near the Abruzzo Hotel, head “north” (the Pantheon is behind you). You will pass a paper store and cross a street. The gelato store is on the left, on the corner. You won’t be sorry!!

Gelato consumed, we walk back to the hotel and take our time. Thankfully, the Roman nights do cool down, if only a little. Anything is an improvement over this afternoon!!

Bocca della Verità

Rome, Lazio, Italy
Monday, September 22, 2014

Monday, September 22, 2014

Our last day in Rome. We both came to the realization that Rome is NOT our city! No living here in the future. Just too "much." We like city living, but this….this is just TO MUCH!

My morning routine has been a constant for the last week or so. Clear my lungs, or try; spend a good amount of time clearing my sinuses, or trying and doing my best to ebb the flow of yellow neon fluid from my nose. No easy task let me tell you. My throat always starts off as if someone had been using a rasp file on it. The burn dissipates throughout the day, but during the night and in the morning SHEER HELL! This is no fun for yours truly. Clearly, the fizzy tablet I take morning and night does nothing…but…I still take it in hopes that it might, just MICHT do something to easy my discomfort, if only for a minute or so. Alas, no such luck.

Well, since we couldn't get to the Bocca Della Verità the other day, we try once again. Maybe we’ll even try to get to St John in Lateran – we passed it yesterday on the bus…HUGE….I had NO IDEA it was that big!!

So, after breakfast, we head out. Walking out of the hotel, we are hit with a blast of hot and humid air, which nearly knocks us for a loop. OY! This is not pretty. We should have taken the Metro, perish the thought; we were stuck between a rock and a hard place. The sun and heat of the day, or rick having our ribs pushed into the person in front of us without respite. We walked.

The walk was fast and easy. Sticking to shade, we made it to the “bocca.” A line? Seriously? A line….Never, in my life have I had to deal with a line at the “bocca” – and this is not the first time I’ve been here. Thankfully the line moves quickly and orderly…..well, except for the tourist group who insisted that they each get multiple pictures; thanks to the attendant who managed to capture images for them to their satisfaction – he gets them out of there fast! FINALLY after two attempts, cross town walk (well, not really that far) in 90 degree temps, with about the same level of humidity, we get to the bocca. I am NOT going to waste this opportunity. Christopher and I ask the attendant to take a picture of us (after I capture one of Chris); SO….I had planned to behave as though I were telling a lie, so the mouth was eating my arm. I surprised Christopher, and the attendant LOVED IT!

The “exit” is through the church – and their gift store…..coincidence? I think not! We learned that Hadrian is buried in this particular sanctuary, so we decided to have a look. Interesting, ancient and worth the two euros we “donated” to see it….that was for the two of us. Worth it, somewhat. Glad I saw it, never again.

At this point I truly couldn’t care less about St. John in Lateran, so that’s not going to happen on this trip. Maybe later, if ever.

The rest of the day was dedicated to remaining cool. We chose to return to the hotel and pack our things as we leave for Firenze in the morning. We had a late lunch and another gelato for dinner and then off to bed.

Received a fb message from my cousin, Norma in Firenze. She wants to know if we’ll be able to see one another in Firenze. OH…I hope so!!

Firenze....mi piace Firenze!!!!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Tuesday, September 23

Morning ritual…all in order so I can breathe. It takes a good 20 to 30 minutes for me to be presentable in public. My eyes, still the eyes of a zombie, are red and oozing crud. New rule….travel with MUCINEX and maybe some antibiotics JUST IN CASE! Maybe a whole damned pharmacy!!! I'd really, REALLY like to know what is happening and why. This happens when I travel, and I love travel FAR too much to ever give it up.

Breakfast is very light. I have no appetite. We get back to the room, secure everything in the suitcases and do a final thorough check of the place to be sure we’ve not left anything behind. Didn’t take long, this is SUCH a small place!!

Downstairs, pay the bill and call a cab. The cab is able to get to the front of the hotel, and we load up and off to the termini! Interesting, while at the station, we are approached by several women who "want to help us" – a polite no (we know what we’re doing) and we wait. I see a group of women clearly lost, and before I can get to them, they are suckered by a woman who had previously approached us. Well, I hope they aren’t robbed of everything. Am I that much of a cynic or a realist? I’m just not sure – I go both ways I guess….depends upon the situation.

The train ride to Firenze on the FrecciaArgento (Silver Streak….are you kidding me with this). I expect Gene Wilder to show up at any moment. Flying through the Italian countryside at 245 KPH is something everyone should do at least once in their lives; ALSO do it slowly with purpose as well. In any event, the green mountains covered with trees slip by your window; giving you a peek at the REAL Italy. Every so often off in the distance, a hill town perched high atop a mountain will slip past your view. Spectacular. How did they build them so long ago and how have they endured. The less than two hour ride is over in a flash. And there you are….Firenze, Santa Maria Novella.

Now….Florence is one of those cities which commands respect, not unlike Rome, but differently. Florence has its history and magic; its own personality. It has its own personality, the likes of Dante, Medici and Machiavelli made Florence home. The Etruscans were an ancient people who originally settled in the Po Valley, and created this most beautiful rich cities. A powerful city/state run by a powerful family, The Medici it has now become one of the great cities of the world. Any yet, one can still walk it in a reasonable amount of time.

We get the cab and head off to our “home” for the next six nights; The Contintentale! This is our second time staying here – YES…we LIKE this particular hotel, part of the Lungarno Group, a Salvatore Ferragomo Company. Now you know why we’re staying here…..I married a shoe whore, and am slowly becoming one myself. No…really, this is a wonderful Modern hotel located on the Arno mere steps from the Ponte Vecchio. LOVE this place.

We get our room, 405 and are told we have a view of the river. SERIOUSLY? A room with a view….in Florence…..is Dame Maggie Smith going to show up? We are in the room. OK…a little different than the last time, and the bed is HUGE…and comfortable. SO the bathroom is up five stairs and the closet is located there too. The balcony is tiny, big enough for 3, but……WHAT A VIEW! The river is flowing fast and muddy because of the recent storms . Don’t take Mother Nature for granted! She does what she wants when she wants.

So…we are meeting our friend and her travelling companion for this trip here in town tonight. They were supposed to arrive on Monday, but thanks to the wonderful pilots at Air France, their flight was cancelled. They scrambled and were able to get a flight, a day later into Rome and a flight to Florence. So, we meet at their hotel: Hotel Grand Minerva at 6. We have some time to kill.

Florence is a walking city. So, we walk. Window shopping is an art in Florence. Dodging tourists is an art in Florence…thankfully we are professionals at BOTH! We know the back streets/alleys of Florence which have some AMAZING stores most tourists NEVER SEE! We found the most amazing jewelry store our last trip – where we got some beautiful cuff links – all because we take the side streets, back alleys and places where the “locals” go. We walk and “shop” for hours.

Six o’clock comes around fast…time flies when you’re having fun! We walk over to The Church of the Farting Dragon (AKA…Santa Maria Novella….the farting dragon is a fresco behind the altar….don’t believe me? Check it out for yourself).

OK…so, we were a tad bit late….I got my signals crossed and thought the hotel was in a different plaza – HEY AT LEAST I ADMIT IT! In the lobby are Ms Liz and Ms Marcia waiting for us.

Hugs all around and an introduction to Ms Marcia. Liz suggests a cocktail on the roof. Sounds good to me – so up to the roof we go. There’s a pool up here! AND THE VIEW IS AMAZING! We order our drinks sit in the shade and decide we need to take pictures. Pictures taken, cocktails arrive and let the conversation begin. We’ve met Liz before in Naples, Florida a lovely woman who is friends with the D6PSG so we get to spend some quality time with her too!! Marcia recently lost her husband and so these two Grande Dames of the south have decided to cruise the Mediterranean & Agean Seas together, with a starter in Florence for good measure…our good fortune!

The conversation never lacked. We learned about Marcia, she learned about us and we all got along swimmingly. Dinner reservations were downstairs at the hotel restaurant at 7, I think we got to dinner at 7:45…..not a problem, the place was EMPTY….bad sign? Nah. Just early for this town! The Bistecca Fiorentina was good, mine was a little tough – but the flavor was great. Liz and Marcia were starting to hit the wall; so time to go. They need their rest, because tomorrow is a BIG day!!

Norma messaged me again. She wants to get together for dinner or something after 6 tomorrow night. OH NO!! We’ll be in Siena all day. I have no idea when we’ll return….so…UGH….I have to decline? Right? UGH.

Florentine Family

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Wednesday, September 24

When we learned that Liz and Marcia were going to be in Florence at the same time, we had discussed options for visiting neighboring cities. First up was the Cinque Terre…no way…too far. Next up Siena, but there was a concern that Liz would have difficulty with walking. OK, maybe Lucca & Pisa. So after much discussion we let the ladies decide and they choose…SIENA! A beautiful city in its own right with its own history and a horse race to beat the band!

SO, I rented a car for our sojourn to Siena, a FIAT 500L. OK…I'm driving again in Italy, seems to be my fate this trip. I’m happy to do it, particularly with our passengers! When I get to the HERTZ counter, I tell them I have a reservation and begin to spell my name…AGAIN. Too late, she’s already pulled it up – and compliments me on my pronunciation! I ask for a never lost….even though the bitch HATES ME! None available. OH GOOD GRIEF! I ask for THOROUGH directions, which she provides by highlighting the map for me. I hand the map to my navigator, gird my loins and we all cross the street to the garage to retrieve the car. The garage is different from the last time (2007). Back then, they had to pull the car out by hand, because they were so tightly packed together, side view mirrors bent in (if it survived). One man got behind and pushed, another man pulled and the car would come out just enough to let the driver get in and go. This time…..the car was parked in a normal spot and we all hopped in and were off.

I can safely report we got out of town without incident and the directions and navigation/or did a great job! We made it to Siena in no time. The autostrada is a blast! Going through the city isn’t much fun, but the autostrada…..balls-to-the-wall!!!

We park the car at the Porta San Marco parking garage. Not sure how far we are from the Campo, but no matter…we have to walk. It starts to rain. No umbrellas. Now it starts to RAIN, no pour. CRAP! Christopher never cares if he gets wet. Marcia has a hat and a hood with her windbreaker, so she shares the hat with Liz. I look for something to cover my head. I find a box. Good enough for me! Marcia calls my name, I stop turn around and SNAP! She takes a picture! Sneaky….and clever. I’m sure I look the fool, but my head is not wet any longer!!!

A few blocks and we come upon a store that happens to be selling umbrellas. Liz makes her purchase, and we’re off again. Siena wraps around the campo like a snail. We keep walking headed down towards our quest…the campo. Along the way we all are districted by everything we see in the windows. Marcia does some shopping, and is VERY successful. We get some panforte (a Sienese treat) and Liz is on the hunt for some stationery. The stationery, much like the clothing of Italy has SKYROCKETED in price! Liz takes a pass, don’t blame her….highway robbery!!

We continue walking and Liz, ever the trouper walks all the way from the parking lot to the campo, and even down a VERY steep stairway…which isn’t really much of a stairway, but more of a broad wide step angled down with a 3 inch drop, all the way to the campo. Liz did GREAT!

OK…LUNCHTIME! The rain had stopped at fast as it started, and we sat under the umbrellas of a Trattoria on the campo. Lunch was wonderful. Pasta, what else? SO GOOD!! After lunch, we walk some more. Since the campo is at the bottom, we move over to the center of the snail to make our way back up the way we came. We stop for more shopping and a gelato. Liz takes a break, and since we have time and Liz needs to stop, we take Marcia to see the Duomo (St. Catherine’s).

There are two ways to get to the Duomo….one is flat and easy, the other involves about 100-thousand stairs. We took the wrong way. After we finished climbing the stairs, the look on Marcia’s face was worth every single step and the breathless climb. She was overcome by the splendor of St. Catherine’s. Well, it IS a beautiful building. The façade is spectacular the pink, black and white marble make a statement, as do the religious iconography. You all know I’m not a believer, but I do appreciate good craftsmanship.

We meet up with Liz again, and find the Taxi stand – which happens to be right next to the bus stop. No taxis, but there’s a bus….and it is going our way – so why not? A new adventure! Unfortunately, no one knows when to tell the driver to stop. Where the HECK is he going? When I asked, he said he stopped at Porta San Marco….but when. Feeling a little nervous at the moment….YEAH. I see the Porta….push the button, and we’re off.

We get back to Firenze with only one minor hitch. Seems credit cards don’t work at self-service gas stations, and self-service means SELF SERVICE in Italy! They don’t have ANY way to make change…..Oh LORD! What a mess. Lesson learned.

We escorted the ladies back to their hotel and made no plans for dinner.

On a hunch, since we’re home right around 7ish. I message Norma and mention we’re back in town. She immediately responds that she’s available and let’s get together. I’m SO TIRED….but…when am I going to get the chance again? SO…..we’re off to Norma’s house for dinner!!

OK…Norma literally had 20 minutes to prepare for dinner (there were a few back and forth messages etc). WHAT A MEAL! Does my family know how to cook?? You bet your sweet Nonna they do!!

We arrive at Norma & Massimo’s apartment around 8-ish; they live a few blocks from the Duomo. So….their house is a beautiful apartment on the 1^st floor of a 15^th Century building! 15^th CENTURY PEOPLE!!!!! In their den is an original (dating from the 15^th C.) fresco on the ceiling….GORGEOUS! The ceiling in the dining room is at least 25 feet high with original wood beams…you guessed it…dating from the 15^th C!! Just saying! The floors original tile and terrazzo. I’m in HEAVEN! Christopher is drooling and we’re both thinking…we can do this!! We CAN SO DO THIS!

Dinner…now, remember she had 20 minutes max to prepare for this. We start with what else….a deli meat platter (love the way me family eats…and they are ALL so slender… (I gotta do something about that…particularly after seeing some of the pictures taken recently)! OK…I digress. The platter of deli meats is beautiful, so naturally…I go STRAIGHT for the Prosciutto (Momma didn’t raise no fool). After the meats, a hot bowl of fresh pasta…HOT…FRESH… (Pasta made with eggs, JUST like Mom’s). The meat sauce was sublime. Oh, did I mention Norma is a vegetarian?? YEAH!!! Again, just saying! After the pasta homemade Florentine Polenta … OMFG … SO GOOD!!! The absolute BEST I’ve EVER EATEN (sorry Mom). The sauce – meat based – so rich and yummy. FOOD PORN! Then we had a selection of cooked sausages and meats which were off the hook good. The salad was fresh, the tomatoes had real flavor and a simple balsamic and oil dressing…probably so good, because it’s the real deal! Dessert, fresh fruit. She put this together in 20 minutes – did I mention she had worked all day! I can never thank her enough for all her effort!

We all sat and chatted with one another, in Italian, for 3 hours. Does my family do things in three hour increments always?? Just a thought. Massimo, Norma, Christopher and I were able to communicate VERY well with one another. I was rather impressed with our Italian, if I do say so myself. After a while, Simone, their son came home from the soccer game. Florence played some team (didn’t catch it) and it ended in a 0-0 tie. It is about 10:30 at this point and Simone (thin as a rail) sits down to his dinner. THIN AS A RAIL…I’m not bitter or anything. Clearly he HAS a metabolism….mine? Dead and gone!

We sit and all chat, take a few pictures, and chat some more. Simone’s English is quite good. He’s studying Communication at University. He had a wall hanging of Dante’s Divine Comedy, in calligraphy – THE ENTIRE TEXT! So cool! Print was rather SMALL (tiny to be exact). We realize it is a "school" night and it is getting LATE….they tell us it is no big deal, but we are BOTH done in…and it is late. So, at 11:30 pm we call it a night. SUCH an amazing evening….I use that a lot, don’t I?? Sorry – but this trip has been about discovery and I’ve not been disappointed at any one time!

We walk back to the hotel slowly, enjoying the somewhat deserted streets of Florence…..IT IS LATE PEOPLE…..GO TO BED! These Florentine’s stay up to all hours of the night. The Duomo at night is magnificent. The Ponte Vecchio has a few couples strolling hand in hand loving one another’s company. We try to take it all in and finally reach the hotel…DONE IN!

Fun, sometimes, can be exhausting! So plans for tomorrow? JEWELRY!

Jewels...just JEWELS!!!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Thursday, September 25, 2014

Thursday, September 25

Since we are merely steps from the Ponte Vecchio, the ladies agree to meet us at our hotel at 10 for our shopping spree. When I say we saw every piece of jewelry in Florence, I mean WE SAW EVERY PIECE OF JEWELRY IN FLORENCE! So, when it comes to jewelry, these ladies know what they like, want and won't settle for less. Christopher and I are also on the hunt for something "special" as well. Up one side of the bridge, and down the other. Liz falls in love with a particular style of ring; the gold is twisted, and then wound into a pyramid – a lot of gold goes into this ring, it is light as a feather, but…18K Gold and well – PRICEY! Not that Liz wouldn’t pay. She would, but the dealers wouldn't “deal” with her…she is the QUEEN of negotiation! Love her!! Looking at jewelry is so much fun, but also so frustrating for someone like me on a VERY limited budget! We found SO many things we liked, but unfortunately couldn’t afford in this lifetime…..unless both of us get REALLY good paying jobs (I MEAN REALLY GOOD PAYING JOBS)!

As we were nearing the end of our trip back over the bridge, a sparkling gold ring caught my eye. The ring also caught Liz’s eye. We went in, and had a closer look. Love at first sight. The woman behind the counter never saw it coming. Liz got her ring, at her price and was happy as a clam. Love this woman! When she knows, she knows! Come back in an hour and the ring will be sized and ready to go!!

Exhausted by our day of shopping, and hungry – we decide to get a bite of lunch. Since we’re near our hotel, we get a recommendation from the Concierge. The Piglet (translated) was great. I just wanted some soup (the throat and sinuses are still not behaving, thought I’d spare you the details). I had the traditional Ribollita (vegetable soup with day old bread thrown in) – YUM!!! More conversation and wishes for a Happy New Year to Marcia & Liz.

We accompany Liz to retrieve her ring and…it fits like a dream! She loves it. We decide to split and meet up again for dinner.

We want to take them to one of two places – one is Oltrearno (across the Ponte Vecchio and up a hill, but he steak is AMAZING!!!). The other is just a few steps away, a place familiar to the D6PSG and quite good. The close place opens at 7:30, we had planned to dine at 7 – oops. Oh well. We’ll give the ladies a tour of our hotel and then we’ll get to the restaurant. Tour complete, we go to OUR roof for the first time. OH MY GOODNESS, what a view! Now we REALLY LOVE this hotel! The view is unbelievable; in every direction a point of interest, a monument, a sight to behold. Unfortunately, no room on the roof for us, so we go to the bar across the street for a drink and chat some more…because we haven’t talked in like, oh……2 hours. So much can happen in 2 hours!! They bring us sushi…did we order sushi? No, but….we eat it!

Finally, we gather ourselves, and go to dinner. The restaurant is PACKED. I MEAN PACKED. No tables, it is now 8pm, and they won’t have anything for another hour. Not gonna happen. The place oltrearno is no longer a contender. No cabs, and the walk is too much after today for Liz. SO….off to the Piazza Signoria. We decide on Il Davide for dinner. The food….Meh. The company SUBLIME.

Tomorrow Liz and Marcia are off to Rome, Civitavecchia to be exact, to catch their Cruise Ship and sail off to the Greek Isles. We say our goodbyes. What fun we had sharing Firenze with these two lovely ladies. I think they too had a good time – hope so!

Power Shopping!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Friday, September 26, 2014

Friday, September 26

We start with a plan……all that shopping for jewelry yesterday put us in a mood for…SHOPPING! So – off we go.

We start with a walk, as usual – where to go??? Oltrearno! We decide to cross on another bridge other than the Ponte Vecchio, and pass into the other side of the Arno River (see how smart they are with naming their districts??). We do our normal thing….WALK – in no particular direction with no particular plan. We decide to head North and West – why not?

We walk among the many different bespoke shops on this side of the river. So very many storefronts dedicated to art restoration, silk manufacturing, textiles, jewelry and….SHOES! We find a particular store – Roberto Ugolini and enter. Mr Ugolini is working with three students as they all carve away at leather creating soles for each of the shoes on which they work. Artisanal shoe making…we WILL have an appointment for next trip to Firenze! That is a promise. I collect a card, oohh and aaah over the collection and see where I could spend a LOT of $$$ here – and – the shoes will fit me! I have a VERY hard foot to fit and for some reason Italian shoes fit me BEST! Gee….is it in the DNA?

Exiting the store, we turn left. OH MY GOODNESS! What a beautiful piazza. The Piazza is just in front of the Basilica Santo Spirito – a rather nice looking church anchoring the Piazza. In the center, somewhat like an oasis in a sea of cobblestones, lies a fountain surrounded by trees. So peaceful. The gentle sound of the fountain is a lovely counterpoint to the voices of chatting people – who look like college students to me….could it be I'm getting that old?? Yes! This side of the Arno is, well…more sedate. The typical sounds of the city are off in the distance – here is peace and quiet. I could do this. I could SO DO THIS!

We keep walking – a left turn here a right turn there – a look into a particular building with original wooden mailboxes with glass fronts – SO COOL! How old are these? Probably not as old as I think, but I’m holding onto my dream of antiquity. We just keep on walking for what seems like miles, but in reality brings us back to the Boboli gardens, on the other side of the Pitti Palace.

The weather in Florence has been PERFECTION! Not hot, a pleasant breeze no rain (well, not during the day or when we’re out and about). We are HAPPY! From our understanding, this is atypical – as with their horrendous storm of last week. Chatting with my cousins, we learned that the Piazza San Marco was severely damaged in last weeks…tornado? Yes…evidently, a minor tornado touched down in Florence! Unexpected. The damage was enough to close the Boboli Gardens, and uproot all the trees in Piazza San Marco!

So, here we find ourselves in front of a gate at the Boboli Gardens. Two American college student/tourists try to get in – CLOSED! Poor girls, evidently this was a second attempt to get in, and it is still closed. They leave tomorrow. Well….a perfect reason for a return trip! Right?? Right!!

We walk along via Romana, stop and pick up some more cash – gee, we go through a LOT of cash – this monopoly money sure is fun!! I SHUDDER to think of the American Express bill; the bank statements…oh this is gonna hurt when we get home! Maybe we won’t go home…..

OK…shopping again. We find a few simply gorgeous things which we can pass up and others we can’t. We both are starting to feel a bit puckish, so off to lunch and back to the hotel for a bit of "freshening up" which means attention to personal needs! After our refresher….MORE SHOPPING!

We wind our way off the beaten path because we can and everyone SHOULD…so one will have an opportunity to see something different. How many times can one pass a Gucci store FILLED with tourists – or along the via Porta Santa Maria without having to dodge tourists who are distracted by: their cellphones, a local attraction, a gelato store, or some “esteri” selling fake handbags in support of either the slave trade or terrorism?? We choose to take a pass thank you! The side streets are FAR more interesting.

We walk up one street and see a particular store which attracts our attention….FLORA. We’ve heard about this – it is a fragrance store where you can meet with a “Nose” who will create a fragrance of your own – for a mere 600 E!! Maybe next time! We look in and decide to come back later – they’re a little busy at the moment.

Off to shop for…a ring for Christopher and a bracelet and or necklace for us both – hey….what’s wrong with this picture?! So, we go back to The Gold Market on the plaza in front of Santa Croce. OH BOY!!! Gold mine (quite literally)! Christopher spots a ring which GRABS his attention….it has the Florentine Stema on it (fleur de lys with the additional stems) – the ring is 18K gold and beautiful. We had seen some yesterday with the ladies, but NOTHING like this. I spot a bracelet that is VERY shiny, and has a very unusual link. We buy both. The ring has to be sized, so because we’re here late in the day, the best time would be tomorrow any time after opening.

Again…in power shopping mode – we go to the MyWalit store; Gee, Thanks Lee…you created a MONSTER in Christopher! He buys a bag (on sale – significant savings I must add), I get a keychain fob…inspired by the Tricolore – Italian Flag. SO HAPPY!! Christopher texts Lee to inform her of said sale! Sorry Perry!

Christopher finds a pair of red drivers which he’s been DREAMING of for – years? Sold. I try on a few things – nah. Nothing I HAVE to have!

Now loaded down with parcels – we again return to the hotel to lighten our load – because…TIME FOR MORE SHOPPING! This time….I’m looking for a leather jacket. Back over the Ponte Vecchio to a favorite store of ours…. Pelle something – we know EXACTLY where it is – a few storefronts down from Moravia Gloves. We go in – I know EXACTLY what I want. Do I find it…NO! Am I happy….well, actually YES! While trying on the jackets, I thought about how I looked, and where I’d wear it – and….I came up with no place in particular. Did I NEED a leather jacket? No. Did I look good in anything? LORD NO. Did they have what I wanted NO! SO…I decided I really, and truly didn’t want a leather jacket! Dodged that bullet! BUT…this means maybe another pair of shoes? I’ve been looking for boots and well….This just might work! We go across the street – I try on a pair of boots…they fit. Do I like them….um, maybe? But they aren’t SPECTACULAR. I decide if I’m going to spend the money, they have to be AMAZINGLY SPECTACULAR! These aren’t. Pass.

Well, wouldn’t you know it….just around the corner and up the block is our ABSOLUTE FAVORITE Italian Enoteca, well in Italy that is … Le Volpi e l'Uva! SO…we go! On our last trip to Firenze with: Beth Ellen, Paula & Steve we shared our little bit of paradise (this enoteca). We sit at the bar I order a Vermentino from Sardinia, Christopher orders a White Wine from Chianti (I don’t remember the name). We sip and chat with one another savoring the moment. We decide not to order another preferring instead to go to the hotel’s roof top bar for a before-dinner-cocktail! Now, that sounds delightful! So...back to the hotel for a pre-dinner rest and shower, because tonight it is going to be SPECIAL!

Cocktails on the rooftop terrace. OMFG what a VIEW! I am in absolute heaven on earth! The sun is setting, the lights shining on the Ponte Vecchio just below us – the sky is a lightly clouded pink/orange – right out of a Maxfield Parrish painting. The Palazzo Vecchio is lit in all its regal splendor.

We order: for me a Negroni because, well CAMPARI & GIN – my two favorites together…is there any better place to have a Negroni? I think not! Christopher also orders a Negroni, but asks for a Bourbon substitute instead of the Gin (he’s allergic to Juniper – so, no Gin – poor guy)!! We sip and again – savor EVERY MOMENT!!! I do NOT want to leave! But…we have dinner reservations…so we’ll be a little late…they won’t mind. Will they? We reserved so bloody early we’ll probably be the only ones there. So, fashionably late it is!

Dinner Tonight? GUSTAVINO! We were here in 2010 (do you get the feeling we LOVE Firenze? – 2010, 2011 and again in 2014. Just saying!) So….Gustavino – a VERY modern restaurant on via Della Condotta #37. You MUST promise me that you’ll go there when in Florence! PROMISE ME! www.gustavino.it

We arrive, and yes …we are maybe the 3^rd or 4^th couple to occupy a table …. Our waiter seats us. He looks like the same guy from 2010. Could he still be here? Well, he brings us each our menu– now last time we were here we reserved under my name, because well….it IS Italy, and I AM Italian and…so far haven’t had to spell my name (which hasn’t stopped me from starting, but they’ve already spelled it out by the time I start)! This time, the Hotel made our reservation, and the Hotel Reservation is under Preovolos…so, clearly not the same name.

He looks at us both and, in Italian says “Weren’t you here maybe three or four years ago? You look SO FAMILIAR!” REALLY?? HE remembered!! He remembered…. He comes back with two glasses of Prosecco – just because, and takes our order: I order the foie gras (because we can’t get it at home which is SO STUPID!) and the Duck entrée. Christopher orders a goat cheese creamed appetizer and the Duck. Now, wine – the last time we were here he chose the wines for us, and gave us some options – we mentioned we’d like to do the same and we’re off! DINNER WAS AMAZING! The wine selections also amazing. We each got a different wine with our appetizer, because, well…they were different!! The pairings were spot on! Don’t ask what they were….because well – by this time, we’d had a bit to drink!

Dessert. Red Wine spiced with pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon Poached Pear, with a crème anglaise and chocolate bits which when they hit your mouth melt oh so easily. The pear has a perfect consistency, the spices warm but not overpowering – the crème anglaise – smooth as silk with that hint of vanilla – and the chocolate – a hidden surprise. Oh my! Christopher and I both agree it is without a doubt the best dessert we’ve eaten – at any restaurant – ever!! That’s a big claim! Trust me! Full, but not stuffed! We decide to order grappa. We mention we like aged grappa (mind you we are SHOCKED we can still speak Italian after all we’ve had to eat and drink). A wonderful aged grappa is set before each of us. DAMN….I wish I could remember which it was!! LOVED IT! After we finish the aged grappa, he comes back with another glass of grappa for each of us – smooth as silk. Naturally we down it – not going to look a gift horse in the mouth! We settle the bill. He asks how much longer we’re going to be in town and offers other restaurant suggestions, then gives us his number if we can’t get a reservation! Sadly we didn’t go to the restaurant – we had other plans. But NEXT TIME!!!

Negotiating Fools

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Saturday, September 27, 2014

Saturday, September 27

We are getting close to the end of our trip and the sadness is taking hold. Neither Christopher nor I want to leave. If there is some way we can stay and make this work, we would…in a heartbeat. Patience, all in good time.

The morning is beautiful, again. The weather has been absolute perfection here in Florence. We are so lucky. Today we decide to take another long walk to the "other side" but this time….south and west. We pass by some familiar places. A great little bakery on the river – very modern, where in 2010 a German Tourist runs into me and nearly knocks my cannoli off my plate – no I'm sorry, no excuse me – just another hit and run. Oh well. Manners

Walking along we pass several real estate offices – and have a look. Hmmm…..affordable – wonder which neighborhood this place is located? We say that a lot. A LOT. This is getting more and more interesting by the minute.

We just keep walking along until we reach a dead end, and then ask which way? Finally, we reach a bridge and decide to cross back over to the “old town”. We are beyond Santa Croce at this point and walk along the river for a while. OH…..so THIS is where the tourist buses park! Interesting. Naturally, we once again stray from the tried and true and get ourselves intentionally lost. Well, not really LOST, but the road less traveled shall we say.

We meander through side streets, looking for something interesting and exciting for us to see. We find ourselves in front of a Marketplace. The Sant'Ambrogio market is similar to the Central Market though considerably smaller. This place looks to me to be more for the locals – PERFECT! Just what we want to see. There are a variety of vendors selling everything from beads to broccoli. It is quite the market….and both of us without our phones or cameras. Oh well! There is one section dedicated to all things vintage. Our friend Belle would have a field day! We’ll have to let her know – she’s going to Rome soon, maybe a day trip??

We continue walking and find of all things a paper “outlet” store. Too curious to pass it up, we go in – and wouldn't you know it – we find a few things which end up in our shopping bags! Beautiful Florentine papers which shall make excellent notes and thank you notes. PERFECT! And less than half the price of the paper we say in Siena! I LOVE a good deal!

More walking and we’re headed back to the Gold Market to pick up Christopher’s new ring. The sizing should be done. BUT FIRST….Flora!

OK…Flora is amazing. We get the full treatment – and I SO want to meet with the “nose” but you need an appointment and it ain’t cheap…..next time – after either publishing a book, winning the lotto, or someone giving us a LOT of $$$. We sniff it all. After much discussion we narrow it down to two fragrances…..Flamboyant & Brisas. Back and forth – we choose Flamboyant – more citrus notes and very subtle. Brisas seems to come off a little strong. Done. The wrapping is gorgeous – the box and attention to detail. I love it!! Now – off to get the ring.

We arrive at the store and are immediately greeted by the Manager, Maria (Greek by way of Australia) – lovely woman!! Our salesperson also greets along with several others in the store – we are made to feel like millionaires. Maria spots the Flora bag and asks us a TON of questions. What did we buy, how did we know about it, etc. etc. etc…. Interesting, but why the interrogation?! You’ll see. So the ring doesn't fit. No big deal. After much consideration and back and forth – Christopher and the salesperson decide upon a size. Off it goes back to the jeweler, and we go back into power shopping mode.

Lee responded to Christopher re: sale at Mywalit – a RESOUNDING yes – pick out something for both of them. So entrusted, we find a bag – a beautiful bag in brown tomes with an original price of 285 E, marked down to 85! LESS THAN HALF PRICE!! Knowing a bargain when we see one, we grab it! Select a nice wallet and we decide to get something for the car. OK, now this is getting ridiculous! BUT…we get it anyway – an Italian flag coin purse for parking meter change! Too cute.

Several stores are explored for a variety of good and such, but nothing procured. UNTIL…we find a shoe store. I see a pair of boots that I HAVE to try on. So unique. So out of character for me – nothing I would consider to wear but HAVE TO TRY ON!! Christopher likes 'em too. SO, in we go. They fit like a glove. They don’t have Christopher’s size. He’s depressed. I negotiate with the salesperson and get the shoes at a price – Liz would be proud! They are a grey boot with grey chalk stripe wool fabric around the ankle. So NOT me, but so fun and interesting. I can’t wait to wear them. Maybe even build a wardrobe around them. SO HAPPY!!!

Back to the hotel and drop off more parcels. Then back out again. This time lunch and more shopping – and back for the ring. As the day wears on, I’m noticing that the fragrance Brisas is growing on me. I find myself responding to the fragrance as it mellows on me – we HAVE to go back and get some. But first…..BELTS! We find some beautiful belts at a stall near the marketplace. I’m attracted to a red ostrich embossed leather belt. MINE! We get six belts in all for less than we’d pay for one belt at home. DONE! We have turned into negotiating fools!

Back to Flora we go. Brisas is now a part of our fragrance collection….we’re going to smell like a whorehouse soon.

Back to the gold Market. The ring fits. Maria sees the Flora bag – and asks if we went back. Guilty as charged. Well…it seems that the owner of the Gold Market, is also the owner of Flora! Small world.

Back to the hotel and once again…rooftop bar. Sigh. It just doesn't get old. Tonight…..Manhattans. Dinner is going to be oltrearno at a great little place we found in 2010. Bistecca Fiorentina WILL be had for dinner tonight! We share an order of fresh pasta with truffles (SO YUM – absolute FOOD PORN). The chef comes out with this slab of meat and tells us (in Italian) this is our steak, OK? OK. Cook that thing…and by cook I mean introduce it to the hot flame for about 5 minutes and slice it up! Which he does. Melt in your mouth beef with amazing flavor! SO HAPPY!!!! We so wanted to stay, but even though we were inside, the smokers outside were wreaking havoc with my lungs. The smoke was wafting in from the open window. I wasn’t the only one affected by the smoke, a proor woman right by the window was choking as well. We had to leave. Back at the hotel I used my inhaler for the first time on the trip (yes, it was THAT bad).

Still early, and not stuffed, we decide to go for a gelato. Gelateria dei Neri, here we come!! Gelato in the Piazza della Signoria listening to a guitarist play – sheer bliss. I don’t want this night to end.

FICO

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Sunday, September 28, 2014

Sunday, September 28

Our last day in Florence. NOOOOOOOOOOOOO.

Another day, another walk. This time…..we'll stay on this side of the Arno and walk north. As we do we pass many new and unusual sights – a beautiful church, a military installation – and finally just off in the distance a beautiful modern building. This is the new home of the Opera di Firenze. The beautiful building was designed by Paolo Desideri and sits in striking contrast to its surroundings. We both love this building and want to attend the opera tonight, maybe…just maybe. For now, we are going to revel in its beauty and stay in the shade as much as possible. It got HOT! Our weather luck lasted only so long.

No rings to pick up, no mood for shopping, no more money to spend. Oh, how I DON’T want to open the Amex bill when I get home…this is not going to be an inexpensive odyssey – but worth EVERY last penny! I wouldn’t change one thing about this last month (well, maybe London & Bordeaux…. Because, well WE NEVER GOT THERE!!) No, I’m not bitter ... much.

Today is going to be an easy one. We walk for about two hours just taking in as many new neighborhoods as possible. We head back towards town and decide to dine at Bistro Toto, right near the hotel. We order pizza, Pinot Grigio and Auqa Frizzante. Lunch is great – and as usual, we underestimated our hunger! Well, we did walk for a few hours! Christopher is LOVING his new red drivers. I wish I could wear them, no support for my flat feet. I want a pair….but no. My practical side kicks in every now and again…but not nearly enough!!

We walk along the Ponte Vecchio and go back to visit a few jewelry stores. We both want something interesting in the way of a necklace. Something chunky or substantial – unique and special – we DON’T want white gold (too pricey). We had seen something the other day, and need to check it out again. Along the way we stop to see some other pieces, but nothing as interesting as what we had seen in this tiny store – so we go back. Got it! Love it. Wearing it now! Not expensive, and silver, not gold! Ticks off all the right boxes.

Well, the money pledge lasted all of 20 seconds! No surprise. We can’t pass up a bargain, nor something as beautiful as this…..and now we’re DONE. We went CRAZY, but now we’re done.

We go back to the hotel for a rest. I’m still not 100%!,(MISSING) and my typical energizer bunny energy has waned. I’m going to see my doctor when I get home – I need to know why I get this nasty sinus "issues" when I travel. Is it the A/C?? Is it allergy? I have questions and want answers.

Since we had a late lunch and we have to pack and we don’t want to go and we’re not hungry, we decide to go to…the roof and get ourselves a nice cocktail! We order the Negroni again, and this time we BOTH substitute the Gin with Bourbon. Why not! This is our version of the Boulevardier, which we so enjoy to drink at home. Our server brings them along with the huge green olives (SO GOOD) and potato chips, which I SWEAR are dipped in crack, because we just can’t stop eating them (or, maybe they’re Lays? Who Knows)! So the waiter comes back and asks us if we like the drinks – the bartender is curious. We share our love for them and mention the Boulevardier. He goes back to the bartender and has a conversation. I hear boulevardier banded about and the bartender comes over to our table. Would we like a REAL Boulevardier? YES. He’s SO animated and excited at this and rattles off in his Italian (why, WHY did he have to speak so FAST?) how we could always ask for something off menu, he’d love to make us another drink, Etc. Etc. Clearly, this man was MEANT to be a bartender – he loves what he does and knows how to please his customers. The new drink made and sent over. SO GOOD! Sorry Chris – as good (maybe better?) than yours. We sit on the rooftop and once again take it all in, realizing just how very lucky we are to be where we are and together in such a perfect place. Bliss.

We ate so many chips and olives, we don’t really feel like dinner, so we take a pass. Gelato it is! We’re getting good at gelato for dinner. Even with this diet, we both notice we’ve lost weight. Now – to lose more would be a GREAT thing!!

When we get back to the room, we look at one another and start to pack, when I suggest – we’re leaving in the morning as we haven’t had Grappa here at the hotel…so….up to the roof we go again! Good thing it’s only two floors above us. Greeted, again with a “welcome back” (uh oh – when the bar employees remember you, not always a good sign) – SO…we mention, to our new best friend the bartender our passion for aged grappa. He sends over a taste, and asks if we like it. Like, no LOVE IT, YES! It was aged, unfiltered and so smooth. My poor liver.

Back to reality – time to pack and get things in order. Tomorrow we head back to Rome, then fly to Barcelona.

How do you know you're in Rome?

Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain and Canary Islands
Monday, September 29, 2014




Monday, September 29

No.
I don't want to go and you can’t make me. Well, I guess you can – we only have the room
until today, but I DON"T WAN TOT GO! All
packed. Breakfast consumed. Taxi Called.
Bill paid. Time to go.

Naturally, we got to the train station
WAY too early. Oh well. Board the FrecceRossa to Rome and spend the
next 90 minutes travelling through the Italian countryside at 250 KPH. SO COOL.
We NEED this kind of transportation in the USA. We are SO provincial and at the mercy of
special interest groups. Train travel is
SO easy and shouldn’t be more expensive than air travel. I’d do it!
From city center to city center in 90 minutes? It is MUCH faster than flying!!

So, how do you know when you’re in
Rome? When the cab driver gets on the
Metro tracks and takes it as a short cut!
I’m NOT KIDDING! I was only
hoping he was going the right way. I was
comforted, somewhat, when we pulled up right behind the train, then passed it….on
the left. Thank goodness the train going
the other direction has JUST PASSED. I
white knuckled it all the way to the airport.

The flight was uneventful and
fast. We arrived in Barcelona at 5. Got to the hotel at about 5:45. We get to the desk and are greeted most
warmly by the staff. We have a reservation. The nice woman looks us up, then makes a
face. She looks at us, the booking and
then picks up the phone and has a quick conversation. Immediately a gentleman emerges from some office
and is MOST gracious. We both are wondering
what’s going on…neither of us speaks Catalan.
The gentleman proceeds to tell us we have a special room and he wants to
escort us to the room. OK…sure….whatever….Turns out he was the head Concierge.

OK….the room. Are you ready for this? We got the Penthouse Dome Suite. YES!!!
Damn. We’re only here for one
night! A two story suite under one
roof. Spectacular view. Sumptuous furnishings – there’s a couch for
goodness sake!! Bang & Olufsen
Stereo, TV’s (yes…two of them…one one of them swivels. I SO LOVE THIS HOTEL). The light fixtures are gorgeous and the dome
is actually highlighted by blue lights – if you hit the correct switch. There’s more closet space here than in our
condo at home! In fact, this suite is
more than twice the size of my first apartment in San Francisco. Now I REALLY don’t want to go!! Who would want to leave this place? We were greeted with an assortment of unique sweets from their restaurant Sauc (which is AWESOME). Did I mention the balcony? yeah, there's a HUGE balcony! I want to live here....think they'd let me??




So we gotta eat. Haven’t had lunch and we really didn’t have
dinner last night and we’re REALLY hungry!
So….out for a walk, and over to a Tapas place we went to in 2011 with
some of the gang. Along the way, we espy
some sunglass stores – both of us looking for (needing?) new sunglasses. We both had our eyes on a pair in Malaga, but
didn’t buy them and are kicking ourselves for not doing so. They were cheaper than anything we saw in
Italy, and we liked them more! So we go
into one store and BINGO. We EACH find a
pair and get both for less than one pair of glasses in Italy. SCORE!!

Back to dinner….We had a bit of a wait,
but it was SO worth it! We scarfed down
ham croquettes, an eggplant dish which was to DIE FOR, sautéed mushrooms and a
dish of potatoes with a romesco sauce.
We washed it down with sangria and were VERY happy. We were BOTH eager to get back to the room
and enjoy.

So back to the hotel, and up to the
Penthouse Dome Suite – I SO love writing that!!
We settled in for a bit, then got restless. So, down to the "American Bar” on the first
floor. We ordered our drinks from the
Italian waiter & Italian bartender….. good thing they weren’t talking about
us….we understood EVERYTHING they said!!
Drink done back upstairs.

This room is beautiful. Oh, we’re SO going back to Barcelona, if only
to say at the Hotel Ohla.

---