Sea of Antiquity

Europe » Italy » Tuscany
September 20th 2018

Published: September 20th 2018

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We leave on Wednesday, September 16 for Florence where we shall stay, once again, at the Hotel Continentale (Lungarno Group). Our hotel of choice when staying in Firenze!!
From Florence, we drive to Rome for a 12 day cruise to Istanbul aboard Oceania's Nautica.</td></tr></tbody></table>

and...Away we go.....

September 16, 2015 SFO The trip to SFO was nothing special, little traffic, a HUGE SUV and more luggage than I've ever seen in one place before! British Air made it VERY easy to check-in – since we’d already printed our Boarding Passes, we made our way to Baggage Drop off, showed them our passports and viola – done. Easy peasy. THEN…..we saw the line for security HOLY CRAP! The line extended beyond our check-in aisle…..had to be at LEAST five-thousand people in line! OUTRAGEOUS. Well, those of you who know me, also know I don’t do lines. And since our TSA pre-check is not honored by British Air, we were fearful of having to trek back to the end of the line, which by now was half way back to San Francisco. No really! I found a gentleman sitting all alone at a pedestal…this was my chance. Turns out there IS a priority line for Business Class…oh,did I mention we’re flying Business Class? Well…we are. SO….I found the teeny tiny sign indicating "priority" and off we went – to the scorn of MANY people who by now were exiting the BART station at the Embarcadero in order to get on line. I have NEVER seen a line move so slowiy and grow so rapidly. I’m guessing by now the end of the line is somewhere in Mill Valley. OK….now through security- no grey tubs. Only laptops in the grey tubs. Whatever. The couple in front of me were practically undressing and moving at a snail’s pace REALLY??? MOVE. I gently went in front of them as they removed their shoes…hint – slip on shoes makes life easier for EVERYONE. Now I know why the line is so long. Rookie mistake. Got through the security gate, gathered my possessions’ and waited for everyone else stuck behind the rookies….who now were clogging up the line dressing at the conveyor belt. REALLY PEOPLE??? It isn’t all about you….MOVE out of the way!! Some people. We found the British Air Lounge and made ourselves comfortable. Ah, civilization!! Poured myself and Christopher a Campari & Soda gathered some simple nibbles and made ourselves at home. Oh, yes….it could be worse. The lounge is comfy quite a selection of goodies and even a shower! Cool. So, now we wait. Our plane boards soon, so time to power down and get on the plane. The flight over was fine. I may have slept for an hour – Christopher….can sleep anywhere! Heathrow, Terminal 5 is ridiculous. That’s all I have to say about that. Our flight to Rome was an hour late arriving from Frankfurt. We landed in Roma and were met at the airport by Pietro who drove the 2:45 minutes from Rome to Florence. We arrived at 8:45 pm and were met at the door by Paloma of the Hotel Continentale. She was so worried about us!! Pietro took Lee & Perry to their hotel. We washed up and hit the street for dinner – which consisted of gelato. Back to the hotel where we collapsed!!

Vasari Corridor - another Bucket List item down!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Friday, September 18, 2015

Thanks where thanks is earned. My cousin, Norma Masciocchi, who lives in Firenze had posted to Facebook a link to the Vasari tour. WELL…..as this has been a bucket list for some time – we decided then and there to buy our tickets for the tour. We knew we were coming to Firenze, and we have always wanted to see it – but never knew if it was open to the public. Well…..let me tell you – it is a MUST SEE TOUR! Exclusive connection (www.exclusiveconnection.it) operates the tour and Lucia was our guide. Her passion for Florentine art and history truly came through; she has a wonderful personality, extensive knowledge and a terrific sense of humor.

I had absolutely no idea what to expect. I guess, since this was Vasari & the Medici in combination- I felt that this would be something grand. It is, and it isn't. The walls are white stucco, the ceiling is no longer the wooden beams of the Italian Renaissance and the corridor, now an art gallery, was built as a simple pathway for the Palazo Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti. The ceiling is high so the Medici, when carried in their sedan chairs, could be carried in comfort. Heaven forbid they should walk!!

The Medici were all about seeing while they were hidden, so they could show themselves only when they choose. This corridor gives them the perfect opportunity to "hide in plain sight". The windows, now permanently closed and barred, gave them the opportunity to hear what was being said on the streets below. The corridor cuts through a church…..so they could attend mass from “above” and choose to be seen or not, depending upon where they sat.

We ended in the Pitti Palace gardens at the Grotto. Beautiful. At this point, after over an hour of walking Lee, Perry Christopher and I decided it was time to eat. We choose Ristorante Totò, just around the corner from our hotel.

After lunch we went SHOPPPING!!!! My Walit – where Lee & Perry went BUTS and Christopher and I did some damage as well. Then we took them to our favorite scarf shop on Borgo dei Greci – Ravinale. We bought a gorgeous scarf of the Florentine Stema, Perry found a beautiful silk scarf which reverses to wool and a pair of gloves. By this time, they were done and headed back to the hotel. Ever the energizer bunnies, we plodded on to the 18K Gold store.

We walked into the gold store and were greeted warmly with a “welcome back guys” – You were here last year. Uh, Oh…..Oh yes…..we left there loaded. 2 chain necklaces and a bracelet. Nicely done. A little gentle haggling and tax refund and left very happy campers.

Dinner tonight with the Ritenours – we have a 7:30 reservation at Gusta-Vino – one of our favorite restaurants in Firenze. BUT….since it’s a beautiful evening a drink on the terrace is in order. We each had an Aperol Spritz and far too many Italian potato chips!! SO GOOD.

We met the R’s in Piazza della Signoria near the “David” (copy)….and walked the block to Gusta Vino. Once again it did not disappoint. We dined for three hours – and NO we didn’t the entire time. This is one thing Americans can learn from the Italians. Food is an experience, dining is an art, eating dinner should be an experienced art! Why eat fast food – which is neither food and not worth the time.

A brief walk home complete with some window shopping and off to bed we go!! Another perfect day in Italy.

Chianti Classico!!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Saturday, September 19, 2015

Antinori nel Chianti Classico

How many times in one week can one have a once in a lifetime experience? I have no idea. However, we are doing our level best to have as many as possible!! Today – we are off to Chianti for a visit to the Cantineta Antinori.

I had reserved a FIAT X for the journey – what a comfortable driving car; firm, responsive, roomy and the seats…WOW!! I'm impressed – as were Christopher, Lee & Perry. I did the driving…again! A few rules to remember when driving in Italy…..Italian drivers are never wrong, lane lines as well as stop signs are merely a suggestion, as with most drivers they have a temper – but get over it FAST. There’s no road rage, no following of offending cars and certainly no shooting of offending drivers or intentional accidents. WHEW! I had no problems, no one honked – but another tourist nearly caused an accident turning left from the right lane. I had a few words for him – and was embarrassed to see him at Antinori. Good thing he couldn’t hear me…..but really??

Antinori is located in Bargino, on a sloping hill off the A1 from Firenze to Siena. The sensual curve of the building is in perfect harmony with the sloping hillside. Steel, glass, terracotta, and concrete together create one of the most beautiful modern structures I’ve seen in a while. The living roof, a beautiful lawn, provides insulation, and a landscape hiding the structure below. The design and construction used many green technologies. All the clay excavated for the site was used to make the thousands of terracotta tiles used throughout the structure. All the wood is salvage. Truly a beautiful structure.

The tour took 90 minutes, and we learned more about wine than ever before!! Truly wonderful. We tasted three beautiful wines and stayed for lunch at Rinuccio 1180 – named for the first ever recorded Antinori ancestor!! Our lunch, al fresco, was light as we knew we’d be dining on a bistecca Fiorentina for dinner. So, I had the ravioli (house made pasta naturally) stuffed with rabbit in a rich, albeit simple, sauce. To die for!!! I pared it with a chianti classico "flight" of wine from the Antinori cellers. Yet another perfect meal in Italy.

The drive back to Firenze was easy, and no one lost their temper (including yours truly) and we returned the car to Hertz without incident….even better.

Back in Firenze we settled up with the car and hiked back to the hotel. Lee & Perry hiked off to their own hotel and we all had a bit of a rest before heading out for yet another meal – kinds feels like all we do is eat…..well…..

We ran into Ms Levine, also joining us on the cruise, in the lobby said our hello’s and discussed our meeting time for dinner. Back in the room, I had a bit of a nap and regrouped. Christopher and I then took the circular staircase up to level six (we’re on five) for a cocktail on the roof. Once again a sublime Florentine sunset, sipping a Boulevardier with the most important person in my life. Perfection! Time for dinner!!!

Dinner was at Buca dell’Orafo literally steps from our hotel. (via dei Girolami 28R). Liz, Christopher and I split a 1.2 kilo Bistecca Fiorentina – the BEST I’ve had in a long time. The waitress said it was enough for 2 – so we added a pasta each….and between the pasta and the steak we all were STUFFED – in a good way. Lee & Perry shared a pasta and each had their own main – neither are fans of the ultra-rare bistecca. Whatever. The wine, excellent. The food, excellent. The company, exceptional.

Liz is staying in our hotel, so we escorted her home. Lee & Perry headed back to their hotel and Christopher and I went for a long, LONG walk….had to work off a meal or two!! Back home to the hotel and immediately to sleep. Yes another wonderful day in paradise.

Mia famiglia a Firenze

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Sunday, September 20, 2015

WHAT A DAY!

Liz, Christopher and I met in the lobby then headed off to our buffet breakfast. We sat and chatted for almost 2 hours! So nice to be able to catch up with Ms Levine. After lunch we strolled along the Ponte Vecchio. As it is Sunday, a good number of stores were closed, but the foot traffic along the bridge was intense and crowded. I counted no less than 4 cruise ship tours from different lines. Livorno must be busy this week!! We window shopped, Liz tried on a few gems, but purchased nothing; a grand time had by all.

We separated at noon. Liz, Lee & Perry had plans for their own excursion today and we had our own plans as well.

Via Facebook, we have managed to connect with family members here in Italy. Last year, also on the 20^th, we had the most amazing day with more than 30 relatives in Montelibretti (near Rome). This year we are unable to get to Rome – so we shall miss them all, unfortunately. However, fortunately, my cousin Norma and her family reside in a 15^th Century home here in Firenze – probably built before the US was even discovered!! ANYWAY…. We had lunch in their home (located a few blocks from the Duomo – one just can't get more central than that)!

We arrived at their house around 1, and left at 6! We ate almost the entire time! I’m NOT KIDDING!! We started with antipasti – assorted salumi, olives, homemade pickles, and peppers. The first course was Past al’ monte e mare – taglitelle with mushrooms (mountain) and shrimp (mare) – SO GOOD. Norma made her own pasta by hand…of course! Perfection. The second course was roasted pork loin, AND….a huge platter of shrimp, AND stuffed squid (stuffed with shrimp, whitefish, and the tentacles of the squid) served in a bed of chicory – to DIE FOR – and roasted potatoes….I had some of everything – except the potatoes – just no room!! Dessert was a schiacciata fiorentina – filled with Nutella rather than cream in Christopher’s honor!!! How’s THAT for a meal!! Not done yet…..we finished with lemon sorbet and a scoop of mocha gelato. A meal to end all meals. 6 hours later and I’m still not the least bit hungry! The wines served with lunch were superb. One a "Super Tuscan" the other an excellent Sangiovese – we killed 1 � bottles of wine amongst the five of us. Norma drank white over the reds. Her loss!!!

We spent the day chatting, in Italian, about everything and everyone…even politics and religion – 2 big no-no’s…..but, we were amongst family. Norma commented on our progress with the Italian language, saying it has improved in the last year (YES)! Karen – your efforts are paying off!!! Norma and Massimo don’t speak English, Simone (their son) speaks a little – and is probably shy about using his English, though it is quite good. We had no choice, and there were times words came out of my mouth as if from nowhere – maybe I’m truly getting it? I hope so. I so very much love the sound of the Italian language.

Lee & Perry leave for Rome early in the morning - we knew we needed to see them before they left – SO we excused ourselves from the table – we had already jeopardized their entire day – and met Liz, Lee & Perry for dinner on the Piazza della Signoria. Christopher and I ate NOTHING….must say even the smell of food was too much. We each had a glass of Vermentino and that was it. We sat and chatted with them, in English, for two hours and by this time we were growing a bit weary from the food and wine.

Time for a long walk!! This city is even more walkable than San Francisco – probably one of the main reasons we love it so. We walked for a good hour after we said goodbye to Lee & Perry and escorted Liz back to the hotel. As a reward for our walk, and our language skills today – we had a small gelato.

Now – time for bed. It has been a wonderful, exciting day.

Shop 'till we drop

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Monday, September 21, 2015

Shop 'till we drop!

Another perfect day in paradise. Thus far, we've had the weather gods on our side. YAY!

In usual fashion, we arrived for breakfast took our seats and starting chatting….we never have a lapse in conversation. Christopher and I had no specific plans for the day – well, not entirely true. We knew we were going to escort Ms Levine to the "door knocker store" which is, in fact, a foundry here in town which still practices the ancient art. Prima colazione (breakfast) completed, off we go to the foundry.

The foundry is located a few blocks from the Arno off Tornabuoni. OOPS.

Have I mentioned there are some amazing stores along this street? OH YES! Since Ms Liz is on the hunt for a new wallet, we went first to Ferragamo….have I mentioned I married someone with a defective shoe gene? He’s drawn to shoes like a moth to a flame. His drug of choice. Have to admit….I’m now a sufferer as well, but my feet don’t cooperate (short and flat – my feet that is). SO…..did you know Ferragamo offers a “made to order” driver? Well, one can select the color of the leather, bit, and sole….all for a tidy sum (which I have thankfully forgotten). I quite literally had to pull him off the shoes. It hurt me more than it hurt him (he may disagree).

The wallets did not meet Ms Liz’s requirements – the colors of the season thus far are NOT to her liking. Light pink, light green….for fall?? Really? I guess some lemmings will follow. We shall see at the end of the season.

Off to Gucci. Where I found a perfect wallet. Not expensive, but alas I don’t need a wallet. No sale. Did I mention it was gorgeous…..just what I never knew I wanted nor needed? Still didn’t buy it. I impressed even myself!! Nothing here for Ms Liz either – though she did love the floral painted double G fabric, just wasn’t the correct size of function. NEXT!

PRADA….Success!! A perfect match for Ms Levine. Right color, size and function. Done. We didn’t like any of the shoes…WHEW!

Marina Rinaldi is a favorite clothing store of Ms Levine’s. With us so close, why not? Right! So, in we go. She was greeted professionally and quite graciously. They provided all three of us with water, and even served chocolate and mints (no thank you) if we so desired. I found a black tunic length cardigan sweater with turquoise and silver detailing – she LOVED it. After several blouses, cardigans, twin sets, T-shirts etcetera, she selected two outfits: the black tunic length sweater – (good thing or I’d have had to slap her upside the head – it looked GORGEOUS (her words) – and I must agree it does); and a twin set with white lace and a peplum – she looked so cute in it. YAY – she’s had an EXCELLENT day of shopping, I must say.

By this time we had walked a fair amount and we needed some refreshment. We wanted to go to the Ristorante Porcellino but somehow lost it! If anyone can lose a restaurant it is us…did I ever share the story of the lost watch store in Venice? Oh well…..not the right time nor place. ANYWAY……we sat at this restaurant with no name – I can’t for the life of me recall the name!! Forgot to get a card. We had a delightful glass of vermentino and Spaghetti Carbonara – which was just perfect! Just what the doctor ordered.

Back to the hotel for a brief respite. I had a few errands to run as did Christopher – so we each went our separate ways and decided to meet back at the hotel around 6:30 or so.

We had made reservations for dinner at Buca Lapi in the basement of Palazzo Antinori, on Via Trebbio. Down a steep staircase we went into a delightful space. The walls and ceilings are covered with travel posters. The Light fixtures all have shades with signatures of previous guests – all quite charming and a bit of a time capsule. I wonder how many people return to find their signatures or travel posted only slightly covered by someone new? I think it is a great idea.

As we waited for our meal to arrive, we heard a very, VERY loud fight begin in the kitchen. Dinner and a floor show. WOW! What a fight! Multiple screams of VERGOGNA!!! (Shame) – back and forth with voices louder and ever louder. I was trying to understand what they were saying, but they were shouting and screaming in rapid fire Italian over one another – it was almost impossible to understand who was saying what to whom. It ended with a waitress storming out with her bag. I wonder if she still has a job? As this was going on the wait staff in the restaurant maintained their cool and service without breaking a stride, and the other guests behaved as if nothing ever happened. Just a normal night at Buca Lapi (hey, maybe it is….Italians are a passionate people)!

We ordered dinner. Christopher & I had Tagliatelle with a chingiale sauce AMAZING! Ms Levine had her hearts delight – Bistecca Fiorentina, which she was happy to share. SO GOOD! Christopher and I each had a glass of Antinori Chianti Classico and called it a marvelous meal. Rather than a house dessert, we opted for a gelato at Venchi - SO GOOD! A brief walk and we were back to the hotel. We escorted Ms Levine to her room, and we went up to the roof for a final nightcap before packing.

The night was still warm as we ordered our Grappa – Barrique (aged in barrels). Delightful. The view is without question, one of the finest in Firenze. We sat, sipped our Grappa and soaked it all in. Oh, how we love this city: the food, the art, the architecture, the shoes, the jewelry, the fashion, the leather stores, did I mention shoes? Time to go back to the room and pack!

While packing we heard what we thought was an annoying scooter or maybe a cheap motorcycle – looking out the window we saw a fireworks display just in front of the Uffizzi Gallery on the Arno. WOW! I consider this Firenze’s way of saying we truly hope to see you soon. And so do we!!

Arrivederci Firenze!!

Civitavecchia, Lazio, Italy
Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Firenze to Civitavecchia

Well, Pietro is NOT our driver – RATS. Instead, we have Sebastiano. Perfectly good driver, not much in the way of conversation. Luggage all packed – Ms Levine, Christopher and I settle in for the 3 hour ride to our ship.

OK….getting over Ponte Vespucci took at least 15 minutes during the morning rush hour! We were bumper to bumper (and in Italy, that means they are touching)! A few more lights and we were finally truly on our way.

South to Siena, the he took a connector road towards Grossetto. UM….I just noticed he passed the A1? Where is he going? Then it hit me – we're going to Civitavecchia, and he’s avoiding Rome altogether. Yay, and we get to see different countryside. OMG…..so beautiful!! After a brief detour on a VERY small two lane road – which wound its way through a hill town we reconnected to the autostrada, and were in Civitavecchia in exactly three hours.

Sebastiano got us to the port. He had called ahead to confirm that he could get us directly to the Ship. They said no problem. Um….Houston? We have a problem! Evidently, his company didn’t provide him with the card to get through the gate. We were past the shuttle stop, and walking was out of the question with all our luggage. What now? Well…..we basically BEGGED for help from the Port Police. They happily flagged down the shuttle driver who gladly stopped to assist us. We schlepped the luggage on the bus and were dropped directly in front of our check-in station. FINALLY!! We have arrived after so many, MANY months of planning.

We found the rest of the gang. Had a bit of lunch as our room was made ready. Luggage was delivered to the room. Our Butler, Andy, introduced himself. Oh…..did I mention we were in a Penthouse – really doesn’t mean all that much – just a bigger room on a higher deck with a Butler and a Concierge. This is living! Settling into the room was quite easy. Unpacking done time for a walk to once again familiarize ourselves with the ship. This is our 4^th cruise with Oceania. We’ve now experienced all three of the smaller ships (Regatta, Insignia & Nautica) as well as one of the newer larger ships (Marina). They are all quite similar. Still…worth a view and a walk in the sea air. We can’t really do all that much as we have a mandatory Drill….complete with life jacket. At least I look good in orange.

Dinner tonight is at Polo. A beautiful dining room aft (in fact above our room). All eight of us at one table – no lack of conversation. We brought a bottle of Tignanello (Antinori) which was purchased at the Cantineta. We all ordered, sipped wine and caught up with one another. I started with a timbale of foie gras: puff pastry stuffed with the lovely "gras" and mushrooms (YUM) – Christopher and I shared the Veal Chop (HUGE) – we remembered last year wasting so much – so this year we shared. The portions are much too large for one person. Sides of green beans and lobster mac and cheese were shared with the table – others shared their sides as well….but I didn’t partake. Our three hour dinner done (you read that right) we needed a walk on deck and then off to bed, exhausted.

Beautiful Capri!

Sorrento, Campania, Italy
Wednesday, September 23, 2015

After a wonderful night's sleep, we ran off to breakfast for a quick bite and off to meet in the Nautica Lounge for our disembarkation pass. We had to wait until all were off on their tours – finally we were called and off the ship!

The blue cloudless sky greeted us as we sailed over to Capri. Such a beautiful 30 minute ride. Upon arrival we had two options…..waste the day waiting for the Funicular or taking a taxi. We chose the latter. Ms Levine Ronnie, Steve & Paula, Christopher & I were in line when Ms Levine said she just couldn’t wait in the sun any longer, so she went back to the ship. Not five minutes later the taxi drivers finished their break and the taxis were a plenty! The taxi ride was fast and furious. A mini Mr Toad’s wild ride. Steep hairpin turns on one lane roads – with two way traffic. One may NOT rest their arm on the door – or it may be scraped by the wall or a beautiful, but vicious, bougainvillea.

On the square we took some time deciding what to do... Food now or later? View or no view? Food over view? Food over view and food now won!. We decided on a charming little restaurant seemingly part of a clock tower with a partial view of the square below – but no sea view. The restaurant is called Ristorante Pulalli. The food was excellent as was the wine. Three of us had the lemon pasta which was spectacular – served in a hollowed out lemon. Christopher had the house made ravioli stuffed with fresh ricotta, and Ronnie had the Penne with roasted peppers and capers. All was so wonderful. The wine was local and the perfect acidity pairing with the food. A delightful meal, and start of our shopping! Did I mention the restaurant is at the top of a very narrow staircase up four flights of stairs? Well. It is. A German woman came up the stairs, her face beet red. She was hyperventilating and sweating bullets. I truly thought she was having a cardiac moment. Fortunately for her, not the case.

We finished our leisurely lunch, descended the stairs got directions to Carthusia and away we go. Ronnie saw the steep street and decided to head back to the ship. Two down. Steve, Paula Christopher and I stuck it out and were rewarded greatly for our efforts!! We went NUTS in Carthusia. We love 2 of their fragrances: Via Camarelle and Mediterraneo. We bought the parfum strength and each bought a new shaving brush. YAY!! We walked almost to the ruins of Tiberius’ home, but turned back towards the main square in town. On the way up, we went back to a small jewelry store where Paula purchased beautiful earrings (coral) and we each bought very inexpensive bracelets (about $20.00). They aren’t much, but we really like them.

Next decision….funicular or taxi? We choose the funicular. Not much of a line – we were able to get on the second trip down the mountain. The ride was packed (101 people) and quite fast. We walked to pier 23 and waited for our boat back to Sorrento. We didn’t have to wait long and once on the ship went straight to the top on the open air deck. Such a beautiful day should not be wasted. Off in the distance, deep, dark clouds. We had been informed that our stop in Amalfi was cancelled due to stormy seas and bad weather. So as an alternative, we were docking in Naples for the day. Oh well. No big deal.

The ride back to Sorrento began to get a bit dicey as the ship was blown from side to side. We were sitting on the starboard side of the boat and were able to see – from our seats, the port side surface of the water – I think we were rocking at a 45 degree angle!! A few screams a few upset passengers (not from our little group) but otherwise an uneventful crossing. Now I know why Amalfi was cancelled!!

Off the hydrofoil, back on land we took the shuttle up to Sorrento and briefly walked around town. We found our favorite gelateria – Davide Agustus (on the second street from the main drag, turn right at the Men’s club – down 2 blocks on the right with a white awning). You won’t be sorry. We sat and ate the gelato, then wandered back to the town center after Steve purchased a beautiful bottle of Grappa Barrique (YES)!! A quick taxi ride down the hill and a tender ride over to the ship just in time to make it for a very late dinner. By the time we got back on the ship it was 8pm. A very full day.

Christopher and I found the rest of our group in the Terrace Café and later Paula & Steve joined us. The rest of the gang was eating their dessert – we had already started with ours (gelato). Time for some protein – we had a little sushi and Paula and Steve had a little more substance. We were full and had no appetite, so why push? We all chatted for a good long time. After our late dinner we went for a walk around the ship then off to bed. Another full and exciting day.

Back in the room we watched a most beautiful thunder and lightning display. Mother Nature truly knows how to entertain!

Napoli

Naples, Campania, Italy
Thursday, September 24, 2015

Another blissful night's sleep.

We joined Ms Levine for breakfast in the Grand Dining room. She invited us to partake of a drive to Sorrento and lunch. We passed. We want to relax today, nor do we want to stress ab out getting back to the ship in time. We depart at 5, so all aboard at 4:30 at the very latest. This is a no stress voyage for us.

Back in our room we collected our laundry and called the butler. As Christopher was sorting laundry and I was writing, the heavens exploded and a foreign substance began to fall from the sky….RAIN! Sweet lovely cool rain. It was a very heavy downpour lasting about 20 minutes. Those of us from parched California were so jealous and surprised by Mother Nature’s display. California so needs rain.

We received a call from Perry inviting us to wander the streets of Napoli. We said yes and waited out the downpour in our rooms. We had called our Butler to pick up the laundry- still hadn’t heard anything from him, so made another call, and heard back in the required 2 minutes. Pavel (hmmmm…what happened to Andy?). Arrived and gladly took our soiled clothes and will have them back folded first thing tomorrow. Life is good.

We met the R’s in the hall and disembarked the ship. Off to wander around Napoli. By this time it was 11:00- stores typically close at 1:00 or 2:00 until at least 4:00. If we were going to do any shopping, we had to hustle. We were on a quest for toothpaste and shoes. (UGH…..must admit, I am looking as well). We had thought about going to the castle, but I think we were trying to accomplish too much in a short amount of time. Bailed on the castle and shoes (YES) and decided to find food. It may seem as though all we do is eat and shop. Not entirely true. We do walk and chat as well!

The woman from the Napoli based tour information on board ship recommended that we try one of the oldest Pizzerias in town – Antica Pizzeria Della Regina D’Italia Brandi on Salita S. Anna di Palazzo 1/2., www.brandi.it. In operation since 1780….well, that’s good enough for me. And, it was too!! I had a pizza Capricciosa – excellent. Christopher had a Pizza Totò, Lee & Perry shared penne in tomato basil sauce and prosciutto and melon. The wine was a local white house wine – quite good and the bottle was 10 euro! Can’t beat that!!

A brisk walk back to the boat where Christopher and I decided to read on the pool deck. The clouds began to look ominous once again, but south of us- so I’m thinking the captain had the right idea by not stopping in Amalfi!! After about an hour it got a little chilly on deck, so down we went. On the way we ran into Paula & Steve who informed us their day was wonderful, but somewhat perilous!! They were caught in a squall which included rain and hail. They saw at least three inches of water running toward them down the slope of the Amalfi drive. No thank you!! Once the squall was over and traffic was allowed to flow again – remember this is a VERY narrow road…not safe in a squall nor storm of any kind. They carried on to Sorrento for a lovely luncheon. So very happy for them all.

We decided to go to the gym for a workout. Christopher did cardio, I lifted and stretched as my socks were in the laundry….so I wore flip flops top the gym – not the safest footwear for a cardio machine of any kind.

We received a call from 8053…that would be Steve & Paula’s room….would we be interested in Champagne on their veranda? NATCH!! So off we went. Sipped a bit of bubbly, chatted and decided we needed to have a "real" cocktail party. We’ll have Andy arrange it. So nice having a butler, though we truly don’t use him often.

Dinner reservations tonight for Toscana at 9:00….which is WAY TOO LATE for us. We wouldn’t finish until sometime after 11:00. No thank you, but it was all we could get on the website. Christopher made an inquiry with the Maitre D’. After chatting for a bit he said he would call us in our room, so back we went. We waited for a call…..nothing. So we decided to go up and take our chances. It worked! He got us a table before 8:00 pm. BUT….it wouldn’t be a window….so…who cares? It is PITCH BLACK out there, can’t see a darned thing anyway! With that he had a good laugh and asked if we were on Marina last year…..um, yes. Summer? Yes. I remember you – we have that effect on people…is that a good thing or a bad thing. I think it a good thing, as he took VERY good care of us!!! We find we go in and out of Italian – we are “technically” still in Italy, but not all the crew is Italian – SO…..we make fools of ourselves answering in Italian. But, it feels good!!

Dinner was Sformatino of artichoke, a ½ portion of risotto with asparagus and truffle, and sea bass!! SO GOOD!!! Christopher had the same except for the risotto – he had pappardelle with mussels. Dessert, grappa with really, REALLY thinly sliced biscotti and a so-so cannolo. Finishes the biscotti, not the cannolo.

After dinner we went on deck into a downpour of rain. Back inside and down a deck to cross over to wee what was going on in the Lounge. A floor show. We stayed for one brief song and left. No thank you. This line is not known for its entertainment, and that’s just fine with me!! The wind is quite strong at the moment, and we’re really rocking – so – time to say good night and pick up again tomorrow in Cagliari, Sardinia.

Ciao

Not to be confused with Caligari

Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy
Friday, September 25, 2015

Cagliari's port is located quite close to town. The city cascades from the mountain top to the shores of the bay greeting passengers as they disembark from the ferries and cruise ships sailing the Mediterranean. We left the ship with Ronnie & Liz to accomplish two things – see the city, and find the Frattelli Rossetti store before it closed for siesta.

Map in hand Christopher, ever the Pied Piper, led us on our way cooled by the shade of the porticos. The morning sun was hot, and getting hotter. The shops and tchotchke "stores" – souvenir shops perhaps – lined the main street across from the port. Naturally the draw was too much for us all. Some thoughtful gifts purchased by our travelling companions their purchases safely in hand we rounded the corner where we were instructed to go and STOP! A very, VERY steep incline stared us in the face. Both Ronnie and Liz, thinking better of the heat and their health decided, wisely, to return to the ship. Christopher and I pressed on, huffing and puffing as we climbed the steep street. Unsure of which way to go, a very nice local gave us directions- we were SO CLOSE!! Across the street and we were sure to find nirvana – or, what mere mortals refer to as a shoe store.

Frattelli Rossetti shoes fit my feet, which isn’t easy. I have what my mother referred to as a “Lalli foot” – meaning I inherited her feet, along with many other qualities – some good, some not so much. The store here in Cagliari is quite small, with a generous selection given the size of the store. Christopher had to be restrained. Kid in the candy store? Understatement. We each settled on the shoes we would try on – I was impressed with both the fit and design of each…..could I buy both? My frugal mind said no, damned mind…..I picked out a wonderful Tricolor Brogue, a Fratelli One, their casual line. Turns out Christopher decided on the exact same shoe….surprised? I’m not!! They are without question the most comfortable shoes for my “Lalli feet”! Task one complete. Now to visit the city of Cagliari.

Castello is the original fortified walled city perched atop the mountain. With a 360 degree view of surrounding areas, it was a perfect location to establish the city and provided for a natural defense. Who in their right mind was going up that hill? Well, these 2 crazy Americans are for sure….much easier now with stairs, elevators (YES…outdoor elevators that work – are you taking notes BART?) – and very, VERY narrow roads which allow for shady cool streets. The breezes whip around and through the streets cooling residents and weary travelers alike. We reached the base of the elevator, which neither of us knew existed and who, to our surprise, should we see exiting? Paula & Steve!! We both shouted up to them and there they waited for us. We arrived at the top and decided to do what we do best – wander, take pictures and find a local place to slake our thirst and feel our souls.

At the edge of the original Castello wall we found a charming little place with inside dining and outside dining….but there were pigeons. I HATE PIGEONS! We ate outside, the flying rats left us alone. Thank goodness. Our waiter arrived and in his broken English explained that not everything on the menu was available today. We thought about ordering some white wine as it was hot, his response – we have no fish, you should order red!! I think I’m going to absolutely LOVE this place!!

We ordered. The wine came in a blue pottery carafe stained red by the previous wine poured from its lips. The wine was perfect. It was red, and wet and tasted great. The bottle of Aqua Frizzante arrived – I think we chugged it by the glass until the bottle was empty. We didn’t chug the wine…..we do have standards and manners! The food arrived family style, I KNEW I was going to love the place. We had the gnocchetti, Paula & Steve shared the ravioli in a white sauce with nuts. So good…until I noticed the walnuts! No more for me.

Fortified by food and wine, we continued on our trek through Castello. We turned a corner and came upon an interesting sign indicating the original “Ghetto” of Cagliari, which was, of course, ordered emptied in 1492 by Isabella & Ferdinand of Spain. Not terribly friendly to the Jews, these two! We walked through the arched door and out onto the plaza. The view was spectacular! The Catholic Church appropriated the property after the Jews were exiled. It is now a museum dedicated to the story of the Jewish experience in Cagliari. Nice recovery!

We continued on our sojourn and took the long way down through town. So charming. We got back on board Nautica for an evening of – you guessed it. More eating. Dinner in the Grand Dining room! All 8 of us at the same table. SO MUCH FUN!!! Food was excellent and the wine even better. Goodnight.

More than just an island.....

Trapani, Sicily, Italy
Saturday, September 26, 2015

May I just announce right here and now – Sicily is NOT TO BE MISSED! In our journeys thus far, we have been to this triangular island at the toe of Italy (looks like Italy is trying to kick her out pf play) – twice and each time we've been captivated by her charms and people.

Trapani is flat. Flat and in a grid pattern – so easy to maneuver. We – meaning the gang except Ms Levine, hired a cab for the ride to what they call the Funicolare (Funicular) – what I'd call a gondola, without the skis and snow!! The Funicular/gondola shall lift us up to Erice at the top of the mountain. The 20 minute ride in that hot bubble was still so spectacular to behold. The views – both down and all around. We "flew" over modern homes, some inhabited, some under construction – each, I presume, has a similar view of Trapani, the sea and its environs. If only!! A part of the hillside was scarred by fire in the recent past. Elsewhere, cypress, olive and other trees dotted the hillside providing much needed shade. We say people riding their bikes down the steep hill and still others running up the hill. In this heat? Are they NUTS?

At last we arrived in Erice and were rewarded with an even more spectacular view. Once through the gate of town, the temperature immediately dropped by 20 degrees (well, maybe not 20….but it was significantly cooler)! I found the juxtaposition of the multiple cell towers and the ancient bell tower interesting. Both towers representing communication. Must admit, I much prefer the ancient bell tower, but that’s just me. The stores were a plenty! This is still a thriving community. I understand it takes 45 minutes to drive up the hill (switchback hairpin turns the entire way). No thank you, I’ll take the gondola. Wonder of the residents have a pass of some kind? I’d hate to forget anything at the market! The streets are VERY narrow, with perhaps one car width, meaning NO SUV’s!! The cars we saw were compact, and the method of delivery was a tuk tuk! Those three wheeled vehicles are the workhorse of small hill towns with narrow streets throughout Europe. I think they can almost fit anywhere. Someone today was getting a new washer. Great news for them!

So we walked and shopped. We purchased a bowl made here by local artisans, and s small box which we shall use for storing our ground pepper. Very happy with both purchases. We found a place which served Arancini – we each had our own filled with prosciutto and mozzarella so good for a light lunch. The plan was to meet everyone at the gondola at 2:00 for our ride down the mountain and to meet our driver.

Now…a word about Sicilian drivers. They ignore all signs. Stop? Only a wimp stops! They honk at EVERYTHING! Even the police. A honk can mean: get out of my way; or hey you wimp, why did you stop; or Hey Giovanni….join me for lunch; or hey when did you get back; or hey sexy how about (censored). We heard each and every honk and then some. If you don’t honk, you must be a tourist, and will bear the brunt of honking, and torment. Now…our driver was, shall we say, passionate about his driving. He had the right of way, and everyone else be damned. At least he saved most of his honks for friends and the ladies (for the most part). The van had a manual transmission. He took a call on his mobile. SO…..I’m in the front seat next to the driver hoping he’ll say he’d call back. NOPE! He was making plans for this evening. Far more important he complete the call. We sped through at least 2 stops signs, and he had to shift with his left hand crossing his body holding his cell in his right up to his ear and steering through town and taking corners while steering with his knees. At least I think he was steering with his knees. I had to look the other way. I’m no wimp, but I made damned sure my seatbelt was attached and the van was equipped with air bags! Thankfully we had no incidents. I wonder if the Sicilian drivers are trained by Napolitani? Or is it the other way round? Non lo so!!
Back at the ship we unloaded our purchases and went our own way. Paula, Steve, Christopher and I agreed to meet up and go for another walk to explore Trapani. Our meet up time arrived and we all disembarked scanning our cards and grabbing a water. We meandered through the streets of Trapani. In front of us, a church where a young couple surrounded by their families were ready to make the ultimate commitment to one another. All dressed in their finery; the groom chewing gum (REALLY?) I hope he doesn’t plan on chewing while exchanging rings with his beloved. She was nowhere to be seen- an old superstition still hold sway here in the old country?? Who knows? Clearly, this is one heck of a fancy wedding. The Jewelry, the clothing, the hair – all first class. The venue, a centuries old house of worship, replete with gilt dressing, a soaring ceiling and filling to capacity to celebrate this young couple. So nice.

The stores were still closed for their afternoon siesta. The streets were not crowded with a good mix of locals and tourists. I saw a stairway and decided to explore. I went on ahead. In front of me – the emerald green and sapphire blue Mediterranean and a sweeping curved beach. OK..it is safe and worth the hike. We were all captivated by the moment. So unexpected (had no clue this part of town was so very narrow – guess it helps to look at a map every now and again!!). We walked back to the ship and agreed to head up to the Horizons lounge for afternoon tea. So civilized.

At tea we chatted, we sipped our tea, and gorged on scones, pastries, tea sandwiches and chatted some more. One of us, who shall remain nameless, exclaimed "after long and prayerful thought I have decided I can’t eat another bite" – well….wouldn’t you know it. Not 2 seconds after that utterance appeared the waiter with some prosciutto sandwiched filled with a fig jam. All bets were off, and the sandwich was consumed. From utterance to ingestion, less than 30 seconds Tea was ending and dinner plans remained up in the air. The rest of the gang were going to the Grand Dining room – neither of us was in a “grand dining room mood” – so we hesitated. Agreed we’d call and determine time and place later.

Back in our room for a few minutes when a knock came at the door. At this point the ship was under way. Andy, our Butler ws at the door with a tray of canapes and a set up for us. What a nice surprise! He noticed we weren’t ordering canape, and was worried we weren’t getting enough to eat. He needn’t have worried – we are hardly starving ourselves, thought the belts are being worn looser this year. One day at a time, the extra pounds WILL come off!!!

SO. We decided to open a nice bottle of wine we brought along with us from Antinori, and sit on the balcony and nosh. Again, so civilized. We sat, ate and sipped as the ship cut through the deep blue seas. Undetectable motion of the ship, a glass of wine, the love of my life and an amazing sunset. I just doesn’t get better than this.

We finally decided to meet at 8:00 in the Terrace café for dinner. We were just going to lightly graze, and perhaps finish a bottle of wine started the night before. Dinner for us was sushi. Paula and Steve took turns going up for their meal. Steve came back with wedge of something interesting. Covered in breadcrumbs, clearly deep fried and topped with a cranberry compote. What was this interesting concoction? DEEP. FRIED. CAMEMBERT. OMFG!!! What genius thought of this??? Clearly Christopher and I had to make room for our own. We did. Steve returned with even more – at this point is was getting late, the café was closing, and well…..this would be a sin to waste. SO…we took one for the benefit of the entire ship! While eating this amazingly crunchy thick and gooey cheese with the cranberry all thoughts turned to BE…who was missing a wonderful holiday. We had all recently heard she was in Dublin on business for a few days. So we all toasted her and wished her well with a bite of camembert. BE, you have NO IDEA what you missed…..we so miss you and wish you were here with us. You are in spirit – but…well, if you EVER see deep fried camembert on any menu-order it. TRUST ME!!

Is it Arabic, Italian or Maltese; I have no clue?

Valletta, Island of Malta, Malta
Sunday, September 27, 2015

I woke early when I detected a shift in the engines as they began to slow the ship down. Looking out the window, I saw some mini high rise apartments (or condos) on the sore of shining bright limestone city. I think it is limestone – maybe tufa stone? ANYWAY….it looked old, big and amazingly clean. A recent restoration? Perhaps. It was quite early, but we had a brief day in Valletta and needed to get a move on. Showered and done with breakfast by 8:30 some kind of record for us! We went downstairs got our maps and thought of calling Lee & Perry to see if they'd like to join us. Our plan – take a cab to Medina, and then back to Valletta and maybe take a ferry to the three cities across the harbor.

We got our taxi, climbed in and held on! My first thought – did this guy learn to drive in Naples, or Sicily? Holy moly!! When he turned a corner I thought I was jabbing my arm into Lee’s side. Perry was in front, Lee sat between Christopher and I. We, in the backseat, all slammed into each side of the vehicle as one. When he accelerated, the G forces pushed us back deeper into the seat. Who knew a Chevy had this much power? Oh…they drive on the wrong side of the streets – just like the Brits! Whatever. We arrived at Medina a little shaken, but not stirred and tumbled out of the car in front of the main gate.

OMG. I had absolutely no expectations of what Medina was or is, I only knew I wanted to see it. WOW!!!! All I can say is, GO. Whenever you have an opportunity, get yourself to Malta and explore Medina. It takes about an hour or so to see the entire walled city, but it is absolutely fascinating. Breathtakingly beautiful – clearly recently benefitted by a good restoration, the walled city sparkled on the top of the hill. The old moat is now home to a very modern garden and art exhibit. The juxtaposition of ancient and modern works perfectly.

We wandered, and wandered some more. Amazed by the number of Catholic churches given the history of the area. Clearly, the Middle Eastern influence is present, but the Catholics "won". I saw no evidence of Islamic religious symbols of any kind.

It was getting to our “meeting time” – Brian, our cabbie, had agreed to meet us in the park and take us back to town. We went to our assigned meeting place. No Brian. After 10 minutes, we all began to get a little concerned/pissed/upset….we have plans for the day and the thought of being stranded here was NOT high on our list of plans for the day. A cabbie showed up and invited us in….WELL, you would have thought he’d just shot the Pope. The group of waiting cabbies descended on him with malice. One in particular was quite boisterous and insisted he NOT take us, as out cabbie would come back and have no fare. He offered to call Brian. A few moments later, he backed off – and let us pile into the cab. Clearly, Brian had left us for a better paying group!

The ride back was equal parts Mr Toad’s wild ride and the flight sequence from Star Wars. Zig zagging in and out of traffic – then sin of all sins. A woman on a motorcycle cut him off. She got into our lane in a very short lane change and he had to apply the brakes. HARD! He came up beside her, rolled his window down, and began to bless her OUT! I have no idea what was actually said, but F@#K You felt as though it was uttered by one or both. Thankfully she jumped the light and took off.

We arrived at the city gates to the old town. WOW! We noticed, yet again, this juxtaposition of ancient and modern. Renzo Piano has designed a new gate to complement the new Parliament House –spectacular. The architect in Christopher emerged. He was snapping pictures left and right. I must admit – this was truly a wonderful building, and so very harmonious with its surroundings. Modern needn’t be boring. Modern can excite, and engage – this building clearly communicated Piano’s design spirit. I love it.

Since it was a car free day, the city center was a crush of people. Too many for our comfort. Lee & Perry decided to stop and grab a bite, we decided to get out of the madness and return to the ship. On the way, we happened to be under the cannon as it was shot off to announce the time, noon. Thank goodness, I had been to the WC beforehand! That sucker was LOUD!

Back on boad, we went to the pool deck, each grabbed a chaise and settled in. Lunch. Reading. Writing. Another relaxing day poolside as we waited to depart Malta, our tiny island nation host for the day.

Dinner tonight, Grand Dining room with Liz & Ronnie. Another wonderful meal, another wonderful day and we are now at the halfway point of the cruise. After dinner, we went on deck to see the super moon. Higher and brighter than it has been in a while. So big and bright up there; giving the bilious clods a bright silver lining. Perhaps a signal to us of greater things ahead? Hope so!

On the Deep blue sea...on our way to Crete

Crete, Greece
Monday, September 28, 2015

We got up late this morning. Made it to breakfast with only minutes to spare, but we did manage to get something in our bellies. Good thing – one never knows when the next meal will be served (yeah, right – the food is constant, generous and good). We scoped out a place on the deck and decided to read and watch the world go by…..

This is the usual time for me to reflect on those characters who populate our little floating village of 648 passengers and 500 crew! So many, MANY personalities.

Miss Wonderful, as she has been called is quite a character. She has worn grass skirts, sarongs, always has at least one boa and many birds and or feathers in her hair. Today she has crowned herself Queen Nautica! Complete with sash, but missing a tiara. She has to be at least mid 80's and QUITE a live wire. I overheard her chatting yesterday; a gentleman asked her why she had so many boyfriends, her response "because I’m hot to trot"! Clearly, she enjoys life, and wants to make people smile. There’s a story there, and I’d love to hear it sometime…..but not right now. Her makeup today matches her blouse – turquoise eye brows, turquoise sequined t-shirt, a sarong slit up the leg to – well, you get the idea, and socks to her knees with some kind of floral print. Her sarong is a floral print and her sandals white flip flops! YOU GO GIRL! She will talk to everyone and is always smiling and making people happy. What a spirit!

A good number of the passengers are retired. Some kingpins, others saving for their first cruise and everything in between. One gentleman, claiming to be 82 – he tells everyone he’s 82 – claims the same deck chair every day in the shade. He starts every interaction with “what’s going on, what’s happening” and then jumps into his monologue….about his age, his exercise regimen, etc. I’ve noticed him jumping up only to start doing pushups. When he’s finished with his burst of exercise, he rises with the same exclamation each time “I do 15 of these 10 times a day- ya know, that’s a 150…keeps me a lean mean sex machine” I am NOT making this up! I SWEAR! After the 15^th time it gets a little old.

There’s a young woman with no leg. I have no idea what her story is, but there’s something rather innocent and naïve about her. I can’t determine her age, but know she’s travelling with her parents. I find her courage inspiring.

The first day, at our muster training, we saw a little boy – couldn’t be more than 2 years old. So adorable. Clearly a handful. He has 2 speeds, fast and faster. He doesn’t walk, he runs. Mom and dad are always chasing him as he squeals with delight. So happy and unaffected by the goings on of the world. Oh, to be that full of energy. I share his exuberance, but he’s got me beat in the energy department!!

Sitting here on the deck listening to the din of laughter, conversation and background music (is it REALLY appropriate to be playing the Love Theme from Titanic on an ocean going vessel? – is it My Heart will go on??) – just asking!! People milling about, walking & running on deck 10 – the track; bobbing in the pool, resting in the hot tub, and sleeping with their books on their chests. Life is good.

The vast expanse of the ocean is intimidating. I can’t imagine the plight of those poor Syrians, and Central African’s risking it all entrusting their lives to unsavory slave traders as they risk their lives by setting sails in nothing more than a raft. I can’t imagine what goes through their minds. Freedom? Hope for a chance at a better life? Fear? All of the above? So frightening, but a risk taken perhaps out of desperation and a strong will to live. We have no right to complain. We all have it so well. These poor people have spent their life savings, risked life and limb and would rather die fleeing a country than live life under a crazed despot. We have it SO GOOD!

Tonight we dine in Toscana. We shall share wine, excellent conversation and enjoy one another’s company. I hope those of you who may read this get to experience at least one half of the joy and treasure that my friends bring to my life. If you have that unconditional love, life is good. We know where our next meal is coming from. We have a roof over our heads. We get to take amazing trips around the world. Be thankful for what we have because it can be gone in an instant.

Greece....who knew there was such a market for fur?

Aghios Nikolaos, Crete, Crete, Greece
Tuesday, September 29, 2015

We arrived in Crete, quite early in the morning. I tried to sleep in, but the gentle rolling of the ship was enough to wake me. Looking out our window, We saw the port (even though we are on the starboard – or "right" side of the ship).

HOT. HUMID. Dark clouds collecting off in the distance seem menacing as they ever so slowly drift across the black and blue sky picking up moisture along the way. We have no plans but to visit town and see what we may.

Off the ship, we walk – the city, Aghios Nikolaos, Greece (St. Nicholas), is clearly a tourist destination from all over Europe and the rest of the world. Quaint with strikingly blue water. Looking into the water can be a mesmerizing experience – the fish, the sea bottom, the clear blue waters are calling me…but alas….not possible to swim here in the harbor area. We take a walk around the lake, which looks as if it empties into the Ionian Sea. Not sure- but I just can't get over the blue water. So blue and refreshing and hiding nothing. The fish, so many, many fish.

The shopping here in town is rather luxurious to say the least. Way, WAY too rich for our meager pocketbook. I can’t tell you how many fur stores I saw – it has to be 90 degrees with 90%!h(MISSING)umidity, and the fur stores are a plenty…and EMPTY! The jewelry stores are inviting, but we resist. We went into one store – a woodcrafter. The craftsman was in the back working on yet another beautiful piece. He took simple olive wood and turned them into works of art. We found a bowl we liked, not expensive, but thought of lugging it; then we thought of cutting back – so we said no. He did some beautiful work though. We were getting hotter, the shade was waning and we were done with the stores. We walked to the other side of town, not far at all, and before us – more blue water and a glorious beach. Now, I wish I had my bathing suit. Oh well.

Now more hot and tired, we decided to return to the ship and rest. We grabbed a bit of lunch, staked out two lounge chairs on the pool deck, and relaxed in the shade.

Christopher finished his book, The Girl on The Train, and I finished mine as well, The Girl in The Spider’s Web- from the Stieg Larsson series, written by another gentleman with the same characters. I can recommend it without reservation. Absolutely in keeping with the “original”. I’m now reading Girl on the train – and liking it thus far. Trying to figure it out….don’t spoil it for me!!

The clouds were getting fuller, thicker, and darker; then BAM. It started raining. Not a gentle rain – it began to pour. Felt so good. The humidity finally broken and the cooling rain felt wonderful. Just as quickly as it started it was over. In another five minutes, another deluge – twice as hard and twice as long as the first. We were under the deck and in the shade, but got wet. Well, not really wet. Since we were getting wet we decided to go in the pool. Brilliant idea. It felt so good. After a quick dip, into the hot tub. I decided to go into the spa for a steam and shower. Christopher went back to the room.

Dinner was in the Grand Dining room. Dinner was with all eight of us at one table. I suggested we not sit near our cabin mate so we could shake it up a bit. Worked out wonderfully and we ate, talked and drank some wonderful wines.

The show tonight was a comedian – Steve, Paula, Christopher and I went – and actually laughed. He was quite funny. Spared no one in the front row nor anyone who dared enter late. We all got a good laugh at their expense. Maybe they learned a lesson – never show up late when a comedian is on a roll!!

A brief walk around the deck and off to bed.

Blown Away!!!

Santorini, South Aegean, Greece
Wednesday, September 30, 2015

What a night! The winds came up and we rocked, rolled, and basically cha cha cha'd over the Ionian Sea. Um, didn’t sleep all that well. The rolling motion is fine, the shifting from side to side…not so much. Maybe it was more of a jitterbug, than a cha cha cha. Anyway – we MOVED all night.

I noticed change in the engines, and no more rocking and rolling. Got out to have a look. WOW!!! We were in the middle of a blown out crater. I’d read about it, but seeing it firsthand is striking. So beautiful.

We dragged ourselves up to breakfast and found a table with Steve on the fantail. Before us, the splendor of what remains of the island of Santorini. Just so beautiful. The sheer cliffs. The island in the middle, created by lava flow, sitting there quite barren a bit menacing. A reminder of the power of nature.

Steve, Paula, Christopher and I decided to take the speed boat to Oia – on the other side of the island. The seas were a bit choppy. The tender over, by Greek tenders….union town, clearly – was an E-ticket ride. We bounced over the waves over to our destination. The speedboat was loading, so off to get tickets and pile on board for our trip to Oia. We bounced over to Oia. The ride was brief, but entertaining. At the front of the boat, a television gave a brief history of the island, tourist destinations, and a hysterically funny "recreation" of a silent film…complete with overacting – also telling the story of Ancient Sparta. A little overdone.

We got off the boat, and were a little confused as to where to locate the shuttle busses to give us a ride into town. We saw people walking up the hill, and my first thought was oh hell no! I’m NOT walking up that hill. Then, we saw some busses. Unfortunately, they were not for us. Our busses were coming right for us….BACKING DOWN THE HILL… The hill curved. There were parked cars on each side of the road. The busses are real city busses, not those smaller village busses one may see in a small European town. The busses had mere inches between them and certain destruction of a number of parked cars. Christopher referred to it as a “shit show” – his people, his call!!

Three busses became overrun with tourists ready for a ride. We just want to get to the hilltop town in one piece. We arrived in one piece, after a very brief ride up the hill – the road is wide enough for one big bus, and an eenie weenie car….one moving in either direction….so seeing a taxi pass us uphill on a turn kind of made me a little nervous. No more looking at the road, instead, I’m eying the lunar landscape before us. Not too many trees here.

We arrived in town and were overrun by tour groups; all busses seem to unload at the same time, at the same place. Bedlam. Typical shit show? Christopher says…yes. We decide to go in an opposite direction – so as to avoid the throng of tourists. Wrong choice. We have to face the music. The one way into town….follow the throng. Oh well.

The views are spectacular. The “streets” so very, VERY narrow. The stores interesting and filled with unique treasures. Paula bought earrings for herself, fire opal – they’ll match her necklace (purchased in Corfu in 2011) perfectly! Well done Paula. We looked at cufflinks, but thought they were just too expensive, even after bargaining. Pass.

We decided to leave Oia, and take the bus to Fira. We had made plans to meet Ronnie, Lee & Perry at the church in town at 12:30. We made it with just minutes to spare. The road to Fira is equally narrow, and they do indeed pass whenever and wherever they get the urge. I decide again to admire the lunar landscape. They really don’t have many trees on this island other than in town. Interesting. I noticed grapevines along the way. In town I found a nice pomegranate tree loaded with fruit. The image didn’t look good, so I deleted it. Bah. In town we followed the leader, and signs into town looking for the “church” to meet up with the rest of the gang who came ashore. OK…more than one church. No town square. Um Perry…we relied on you, you’d been here before!! We are now officially LOST! Text. Didn’t go through. Paula called. They are at a restaurant with green awnings. OK. It’s called Character. OK. It’s off the main “street” near the funicular. OK…..still not finding it. We gave up and began walking. We went up, down all around, and low and behold right in front of us – Green Umbrellas Restaurant Character. What an amazing view!! We placed our order – and when the food arrived, realized we ordered too much!! Oh well, we didn’t finish everything, but came VERY CLOSE!! The wine was wonderful. The company terrific and the view. THAT VIEW! No wonder the town was so crowded, four (4) cruise ships in port!

A bumpy tender ride back to the ship, so bumpy I hit my head…. I have a hard head, but every now and again I feel it. Safely back on board.

We all agreed to meet in Lee & Perry’s room for a little “nosh” prior to dinner in POLO at 8:30. So we met at the agreed upon time. Andy gave us some canapes for the party…and did the same for each of the 4 cabins. In addition, he brought a HUGE salumi platter and a separate cheese platter. SO…we sipped champagne, drank wine and ate so much more than we should have. Dinner is going to be light tonight after this feast!!

8:30 is just too late to eat for me. Guess I’m a tramp!! Christopher split an order of the rack of lamb. The waiter gave us such a look. There are ONLY two chops per plate, that’s fine for us….when they arrived, they are 2 separate shops indeed, with 2 ribs each, MORE than enough for one person. The servings tend to be rather large. We had more wine no firsts, and a dessert…I was STUFFED!

The ship was rocking and rolling throughout dinner. I noticed the wine bottles rolling back and forth in their pigeon holes – they were really moving. The poor woman at the next table had to go back to her room without eating, she just couldn’t handle the movement. It has been windy!!

The entire night we moved quite a lot. I allowed myself to be rocked to sleep by the movement of the ship. It worked.

Ephesus. Check. Bucket List, CHECK!

Kusadasi, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey
Thursday, October 1, 2015

Kusadasi, Turkey

Turkey is an enigma. So cosmopolitan, secular and accepting of change, but ruled by a conservative religious individual trying to insinuate his religious beliefs into the mainstream. Extremists of any (make that EVERY) faith are trying to make inroads in the political discourse here as well as at home. It scares me. Fundamentalists fear change. Turkey is far more cosmopolitan than I had ever thought. A pleasant surprise. Thank goodness.

Another beautiful morning, another windy night, which means the boat was bouncing all over the place, think mosh pit. I was able to sleep only waking when the ship made a strange "move" – my immediate thought…earthquake. Now, I realize we wouldn't be able to feel a quake at sea (at least I seriously doubt it) but nonetheless, we both woke, fearing the same thing. I guess it comes with growing up in California, along the San Andreas fault.

Our one and only tour on this voyage is to Ephesus. Another bucket list item and we can’t wait. In the Nautica lounge we waited for our tour to be called. Ephesus and the Terrace Houses tour. BINGO! We’re off. Bus 17, the whole gang except MS Liz. She has been to Ephesus and decided to do some local shopping instead. We piled into the bus, sat in the front and hung on our tour guide’s every word.

Bahar is an ITS tour guide. She’s bright, her English is perfect and she has a wonderful personality and disposition. We lucked out again when it comes to bucket list tour guides (whew)! The ride to Ephesus is about 20 minutes or so. The entire way she educated us about Turkish culture, customs and the history of the nation. Closer to the ancient site, she gave us history of the city (did you know it moved three times?) and its people.

Arriving at the entrance to the site, our bus driver maneuvered the huge bus through some tiny spaces- parking spots are merely a suggestion (are we in Italy?). We hopped off the bus, went to the WC, and got our tickets. Breathless with anticipation, I felt like a kid opening birthday presents – I CAN’T WAIT ANOTHER MINUTE! We met up with Bahar and off we went. I think I shot more pictures here than anywhere else on the trip. My camera was out, and I was ready. Such a spectacular site. With Bahar’s narration, the city came to life. I imagined life in the ancient city. The political center, shopping district, the library, amphitheater, arena….even the whorehouses! We learned how to interpret the ancient “pie symbol” which referenced Christianity. So interesting, I had no clue.

The public toilet was quite interesting. The wealthy required their slaves to warm their seats so when it came time to take care of business, their bottoms weren’t chilled by the marble. The toilet was designed in a square with seats along the perimeter, in the center were musicians who played all day. So, who had the most difficult job? I think the musicians!!

Across from the toilet, is the entrance to the Terrace houses. Absolutely spectacular. They only started excavating the houses in the early 200’s. Quite a recent discovery. Thus far, only 1/3 of Ephesus has been excavated. We shall return, in hopes of seeing more. Won’t wait as long as I did between trips to Pompeii.

We walked and walked and learned more and more about Roman life and times. I just love history, and Bahar brought it to life. Anyone thinking of this tour, arrange through ITS and request Bahar. You won’t be disappointed.

About 2 hours later, we are done with the tour. A lot of walking in the direct sun, but I was anything but tired. I was exhilarated, so thrilled to have this experience. We got on the bus which was parked in the sun ad behind another bus blocking our exit. At the front of the bus, outside on an easel, were pictures taken of us on the tour. I didn’t even look at them, no pictures please.

Paula pulled out her trusty container store portable fan to cool herself off. We suggested she pull her drapes shut, as she was in direct sun – her alabaster skin can’t take the direct sun. The curse of the Irish! Well, I’m guessing she got the fan a little too close to her hair, because when I looked over, I saw Steven doing his best, under the circumstances, to remove the fan from Paula’s hair. I began to giggle (to myself) then thought scissors is the only resolution. Well, wouldn’t you know it…Bahar is a woman of many talents. She managed to dislodge the fan, with minimal hair damage. When I suggested Paula use some conditioner to remove her “tangles” Bahar busted up. Looking at me she said, I always knew you were trouble. Who? ME??

The bus got under way. We learned more about our Host Country’s culture and traditions. Always a highlight for me. I just love this stuff. When she spoke of the traditional beverages of Turkey, she went through the list and got to the hard liquor 40%!a(MISSING)lcohol…she looked directly at me and Christopher and said “I expect you two to try that”. WELL…..challenge heard and accepted!! Bring it on.

We arrived at the “Harem” – seriously, that’s the name of the place. A carpet store. They’re going to serve us snacks at a carpet store? Oh yes, complete with a “floor show” (sorry)! Bad pun. We learned how the silk is spun into thread. We saw a woman sitting VERY low to the ground tying the double knots as she weaves the threads into a design pattern revealing a unique Turkish Carpet. I think we’re in for a sales pitch! You have NO IDEA! The show was so interesting. We learned about the various styles and regions of the carpets, while the Carpet guys were quite literally throwing carpets here and there. Must have shown us 50 or more carpets. THEN, he announced the Angora (Ankara) regional design….in black and white. Both Christopher and I gasped. Uh, Oh. I have a feeling it was noticed, because immediately after the show was over a gentleman came over and took us away….We were introduced to a series of the Angora rugs but our heart was stolen by the black and white. Prices were outrageous for the original size we saw…Oh, sir- not to worry…boy he wasn’t kidding. Well, we went back and forth….no, too high. No TOO HIGH. I think Christopher and I had a final price in our mind – without discussing it – we NEVER thought we’d buy a Turkish Carpet…but…well…when he went below my allotted budget by over $400, and then another $200 – because we would use VISA, SOLD! Surprise – out bottom line number in our heads was the same, and he beat it by $600!! NICE. So, we are proud owners of a black and white Angora wool carpet. It is striking. We went with a smaller size, and are very happy, if a little poorer for it!! We tipped out Carpet thrower, Bahar and left before they tried to sell us something else. Too late – the jewelry guy tried…he wanted to sell us some gold, but noticed we wore white gold and platinum (good eye) and practically gave up (for a Turk) the poor guy only showed us one piece – a ring, with some kind of coin in it…NO. Then we literally turned and ran outta there!!

On the street is was significantly worse. The salespeople sit in front of their store inviting you in. It is almost as bad as the cosmetic stores at home (Oro Gold I think) who do much the same – only much more insistent. These guys are also pro’s. But my absolute favorite are the signs which exclaim “genuine fake watches” and “genuine fake bags” – The Goyard fakes were pretty bad! The LV stuff looked OK, but we made no more purchases!

Heading back to the ship, by this point we’d lost the gang, we found Ronnie & Liz. Liz had done some shopping…jewels, lovely gifts for the family. We all returned to the ship, agreed on a time for dinner and went our separate ways. Christopher and I went on deck to relax and read after a quick lunch. I slept, read, and wrote. So relaxed!!

Dinner was in the Terraces Buffet – not too late as we wanted to see the entertainment. The singer, an Irish Tenor (name escapes me), was good. Show tunes. Didn’t have much control over his breath, the sound mixing and amplification was horrid. The band was OK, but the horn section must have been at odds with one another – it happens. One was sharp, and the other flat. Still, all were MUCH better than I could do!! We were entertained. I have always said, one doesn’t sail on Oceania for the entertainment. After the show, off to bed and another windy, rocking and rolling night.

We shall return!!

Skiathos, Greece Back to Greece one last time before our final stop in Istanbul. OH NO…this trip is close to the final port! I don't want it to end. How can we make this last? Surrounded by this beauty, our friends, the other ship board guests with whom we’ve chatted – I don’t want it to end! Today is a quick one. We arrived in port about 7:30ish, and we weigh anchor at 2:00 pm. Skiathos is a charming little village. I want to come back, if for nothing else but to experience its beaches (some of the finest in Greece and the world). We learned that MAMMA MIA, the film, was shot here – not entirely, but several locations were used. The island is quite lush, cypress, pines, evergreens carpet the island. The various shades of green on the lush hillsides sit in bold contrast to the barren hills of Santorini. We shall be back. The town is a little fishing village – something one might see in New England perhaps? Maine maybe? We shall return. The people are lovely, the streets narrow and steep easily maneuvered via scooters. I’m thinking scooters outnumber cars (at least in town). We walked the town with Lee & Perry. Did a little window shopping. Lee & Perry bought a few little trinkets. On our way back to the ship, we passed a bakery. I have been craving galataburiko (PLEASE forgive my brutalization of the Greek language) – for years. Loved my mother-in laws, and CRAVE cousin Irene’s. We shall see if this measures up to Irene’s!! It is in the refrigerator in our suite….no dessert tonight, I plan on diving in tonight after dinner!!! We are both on the deck as I compose this. Christopher reading and "resting his eyes". The winds are up again – oh well, late in the season. The sky is a milky white, wispy clouds as well as huge nimbus clouds high in the sky are playing hide and seek with the sun. I’m a little chilled at the moment, and tea shall be served shortly. So, inside for me, a pair of long pants and a collared shirt and off to tea in the Horizon’s lounge.

15-million people....

Istanbul, Turkey
Saturday, October 3, 2015

Istanbul

Up early. We won't get into Istanbul until 12:30 or so, but neither of us could sleep, so why fight it? We all had planned to meet to see "float in". So much sea traffic in the straights. Istanbul is off in the distance barely visible, but the shadow of high rise buildings can bee seen through the fog and haze. High rise buildings? I guess Istanbul is more cosmopolitan than I thought. Not sure what to expect.

We arrive in port. The pilot slipped us in between two other ships, a perfect move – some serious parallel parking if you ask me. Quite impressed, clearly, he (or she) has done this before!! Lee and Perry are of on a tour. Steven, Paula, Liz and Ronnie are on a private tour. We decide to hit the streets on our own. Map in hand we leave the ship.

Istanbul, here we come!!!

OK, we barely get through the port customs office and are inundated with taxi requests. Taksi sir? Hey – taksi? You want tour? I give you tour. Persistent though they may be we had planned to go for a walk; the day was too spectacular to sit in a cab, or tour bus.

Istanbul traffic and drivers make Rome look like amateur hour. OMG….this is MADNESS! Absolute. Madness. Our second interaction is with a shoe shine guy on the street. He “dropped” his brush, so I picked it up and handed it to him. MISTAKE! He grabbed my hand to shake it and to say thank you (UH, OH) –I’m beginning to think I fell for the oldest trick in the book. Thank you – yes, I’m nice – GOTTA GO!!! He was on his knees…he wouldn’t let go. I was not so nice anymore. BYE! We went on our way, more alert, and aware of how to handle ourselves (HAH).

We crossed the Galata Bridge on foot. So many men fishing off the bridge – they are restricted as to when and where they may fish. So much sea traffic, I’m surprised they can fish from here at all. So many people. SO. MANY. PEOPLE.

Now across the bridge, we attempt to find the Spice Market. Thinking we know where it is, we head in the right direction only to find a pet bazar. Birds, plants, vegetable seeds, and….wait for it…..LEECHES! So many barrels of leeches. Whatever for? Pets? Food? I HAVE NO IDEA…but am quite curious, but NOT curious enough to engage someone to learn about the leeches for fear I’d be a proud (?) owner of a bucket full!! No, thank you.

OK….spice bazaar is just behind the pet bazaar. The aroma is so fragrant and enticing…spice bazaar, that is – not the pet. We walk through the door, as have millions before us, and walk into a different world in a different time. Fascinating. SO. MANY. PEOPLE. Turkish delight. A million types of spices and teas. I even saw Viagra tea! Hello mister- you want to be my friend? You buy, you my friend. Hi mister, you Canadian? Ciao signore italiano? Hi mister, where you from? Hi mister, I have best price. You from California, I have friends in San Diego…San Francisco is north, no? You buy?

We didn’t buy.

We decided to head back to the ship. We were growing weary, and decided we’d like to have our galataburiko and some tea when we get back on board. Done. Dinner was scheduled early, so we’d have our bags packed and ready for the butler to pick up…the voyage aboard Nautica is over! Really, REALLY getting sad. Dinner was great, but the underlying feeling was we all had to say our goodbyes. None of us wants to, but…..

Back to the room. Packed. And ready to go….

"um...you like Kurdish men?"

stanbul, Turkey
Sunday, October 4, 2015

Istanbul

We have to get up early, and be out of the room. Up to breakfast, we ran into everyone – time enough for breakfast, some chit-chat and more heartfelt, heavy goodbyes. Heavy sigh.

Lee, Perry Christopher and I await our departure call. We leave the ship one last time and head to Passport Control….the guy doesn't even look at my VISA…whatever, stamps my passport, and off we go into the madness. TAXI!

OK…..this is a taxi shit show! Absolutely NO order. One way in and out. Drivers everywhere. People strolling between cars, in the way – taking their time. Horns blaring. Cars blocking other cars. OMG. SO. MANY. PEOPLE! Taxi secured – he got ALL the luggage in the back and we headed off to the hotel.

Our hotel is WONDERFUL! We are quite literally steps from the main sights in Old Town. Hagia Sophia, The Cistern, Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque, Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar are all steps from our hotel. NICE!! We agree to meet downstairs and begin our adventure in town.

Hagia Sophia it is. The line is HUGE….ships are in port, clearly. It is a Sunday (I know because I had to ask at least 20 times). We get a museum card. No line. In the Museum/Mosque in no time. WOW! This building is something to behold. Built as a house of worship for Christians, then when the Ottomans arrived, converted to a Mosque, then in the early 20th Century, it was designated as a museum, and declassified as a house of worship for any religion. The restoration is clearly an ongoing project, scaffolding obscures an interior section of the mosque; and the corresponding section on the mosques’ exterior. Water damage is clearly visible. Sections of the vaulted ceiling, previously hidden for centuries reveal Christian iconography. Gold mosaics of angels, saints, and Christ stand in stark contrast to the ornate designs of the Islamic era. The juxtaposition is interesting. The marble floors, worn by thousands of years of use, have seen more people worship and sight see than any other building in this part of the world. Such history. This place is grand, built as the largest Christian house of worship, and is still one of the largest. Eclipsed by St. Peter’s of course, but still quite large.

Time for food. We decide to "run the gauntlet" – on the square. We decide on a “pub” with rooftop seating (big thing here…gets one closer to Allah?). Maybe. Lunch was both wonderful and relaxing, just what we all needed. Christopher’s lunch was SUPERB…next time. Gotta remember what it was – or at least what it looked like. Thankfully most menus have images as well (YAY) – otherwise we’d be so, so lost. Love their shirts…”Gooo Thinks Happen” I think the thought was either lost in translation, or they got SUCH a deal on the shirts, it didn’t matter.

Now it’s time for the Blue Mosque. On our way, we meet a gentleman who has, of course, a “shop in a small bazaar” behind the Mosque. He escorts us (my first thought – what does he want?) why am I such a cynic? He walks us around the back to the entrance gives us some suggestions, history, general information – basic “stuff” but interesting nonetheless. Again – I ask myself – what does he want…and then it comes. I’ll meet you after your tour – I’ll take you to our family shop. You come with me, we be good friends. No idea as to what kind of shop, just a shop in the Bazaar. Perry is hooked.

The Blue Mosque is still an operating house of worship. We must remove our shoes, no shorts, women’s heads must be covered – just like the Catholics – the religions are more alike than they claim. Why are women second class – and explained away by comments like “but, they prefer it that way”! Funny, the “explanation” always comes from men! Oh well, the more things change, the more they stay the same. Women must pray separately from the men. We observe the prayers. While we were approaching the Mosque, we heard the call to prayer. Fascinating. This culture has me absolutely captivated. I must learn more. Most of the faithful have completed their prayers. It feels odd to take pictures in this sacred space, but everyone is doing it. I take a few, but not many.

OK, we’ve seen what there is to see. Shoes back on, we see our “guide” waving frantically. We go in his direction. He’s going to take us “the fast way” to his shop. We go down a rather sketchy street and then through some kind of tunnel….OK…this is where I meet my end I think. Where the HELL is he taking us? I’m out of my comfort zone, meanwhile he’s chatting away about more history of Istanbul. It’s just a smokescreen I think, he’s luring us in, and WHAM, someone jumps from the shadows and it’s all over. I know some who would not mind, but I’m not ready yet!!

We turn the corner and there it is….no Bazaar, but his “family shop”. And..guess what they sell? Turkish Carpets! FINALLY, Perry gets his wish. Lee looks ready to strike. This is going to be interesting.

In the store, we are asked about preferred libations. I take a Turkish coffee. I’m now HOOKED on the stuff. Everyone else gets Apple Tea. Wimps! Now the rugs come out. A brief history of Turkish carpets (we are all now becoming experts on the types, regions, and weaves of these carpets). How many knots per square inch? Under 600? Fuggedit. OK…Kilim, Gigi, Single knot, Double knot…..it goes on and on. Dura, our host, (our guide’s cousin – who, by the way has a house in New Jersey). NEW JERSEY? Seriously? Whatever. Perry is REALLY hooked. He hangs on Dura’s every word. He tries to hook us, but his powers are useless over us. We own a carpet, and bought it in Kusadasi….of course, he badmouths Kusadasi. No big deal, typical big city dissing the provinces.

OK. Rugs, area rugs, hall runners (UH OH)…it continues. Perry now wants to see More Hall Runners. Some too long, some too short…not special enough….and so it goes…UNTIL….OH. Perry sees one he’s hooked on, and he wants to see more like it. We move into another room…time for the new bait to come in…but Dura tells us he needs more space. So, we move. UH OH. More runners, more carpets. Then the carpets are eliminated, and the runners are the only contender now. Then Dura asks THE question….which one do you prefer? It is now down to 2 contenders. We discuss. Lee asks Dura to leave the room (UH OH….she’s now on board….Perry is going to get his carpet). DONE! Negotiating complete. Perry gets a good deal. Lee is Happy. Perry is Happy. Dura is Happy. We’re ALL happy and we can leave…UNTIL…Dura tries to sell the silk carpet Perry was eyeing earlier. We remind Perry that size, does indeed matter in this regard, and even the small one is WAY over budget. Lee is hyperventilating at this moment.

Dura takes us up a dark stairway…oh no…here it comes. WHEW, just a landing with more customers, and the front door. We RUN our before anyone changes their mind. DONE. That feels like it took hours, but it only took a little more than an hour. In fact, it was just the perfect rest we needed. I think Lee is still in shock. Perry is walking on air. We are SWORN to secrecy…..um…SERIOUSLY??? It must be noted – we are in NO WAY complicit in this expenditure. We have been cleared of any wrongdoing. We are INNOCENT.

Back to the hotel. We decide to head out to the Bazaar. Closed on Sunday. I know this because the heavy doors are sealed shut to the grand Bazaar, and I know it’s Sunday, because I’ve asked now about 2-thousand times. So lost with regard to time. We decide to walk a little. We end up in a neighborhood which may or may not have been a good idea – based upon the looks we’re getting. I mean STARES! Is my fly open? Nope. Did I spill something? Nope. I think we’re not supposed to be here. We hear another call to prayer and decide to head back to the hotel and freshen up before dinner.

Dinner…NOT in the Grand Dining room! Missing our travelling buddies and having to decide where to dine. We go for a walk, and turn left out of the hotel just because we can!! We wander and of course a gentleman stops us. AND….of course he’s trying to sell a rug. He has hold of my hand. He complements me on my T-shirt (in reality a L/S Robert Graham with a paisley design…in retrospect a very Turkish design). ANYWAY….he’s insulted I’m not interested in a rug. I tell him we bought one in Kusadasi; and once again, I’m told they are inferior to Istanbul rugs (whatever – look EXACTLY the same to me). THEN…he asks if I’m with Christopher. Yes. OH…..do you like Kurdish men he asks under his breath. WHAT????? I respond, I’m married. OH, you are? Oh – he tries to sell me a carpet again. I feel like I need a shower.

The restaurant (across the street from my Kurdish boyfriend) is unsatisfactory. We leave. Back through the gauntlet to the place across the street from us. Dinner is EXCELLENT! I mean EXCELLENT!

Back to the room where we both collapse. Meeting the R’s in the morning for breakfast at 8:30 am.

It's good to be Sultan

Istanbul, Turkey
Monday, October 5, 2015

Istanbul

We are awakened by the call to prayer. I find the call fascinating, it doesn't last long and clearly each Muezzin has their own style. Fascinating. Breakfast is interesting. I’ll leave it at that. Their idea of pastry is interesting. Rather plain. No salt. No sugar. Not enough butter. Get where I’m going with this? Either their sweets are too sweet or not sweet at all. Happy medium, PLEASE!!

We walk to the Topkapi Palace. This place is HUGE. I mean HUGE. Bigger than I’d thought. I was looking for Zero Mostel, and Melina Mecury…..nowhere to be found. We spent over 4 hours on our own walking through the palace. All I can say is in five days you wouldn’t see it all. Overwhelming, absolutely overwhelming.

We see an 86 Karat diamond. My sister would be in HEAVEN at the sight of that bauble! The Topkapi dagger is impressive…three huge emeralds placed deliberately on the handle. The scabbard is encrusted with diamonds. A LOT of diamonds! This room is the treasury for good reason.

We went to the kitchens; the treasury, the Harem, a million other rooms and only saw half of the palace. Didn’t go through the sacred space…line was a little long at by this time we needed to eat. We were all a bit puckish, and probably more tired than anyone was willing to let on.

We had lunch overlooking the Bosporus. Beautiful.

Back to the hotel to schedule the van ride to the airport tomorrow and take a bit of a rest before we head off to the Grand Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar is immense. A covered shopping "mall" with warrens and aisles lined with jewelry stores; genuine fake watches – and maybe even a real one here and there – but I wouldn’t take that chance. Some beautiful jewelry. I mean BEAUTIFUL. I’ve determined there must not be a word for “subtle” in the Turkish language. Everything and everyone are so over the top. Their personalities are big, their hearts even bigger, but nothing, I mean NOTHING is subtle.

Well, you’ll never in a million years guess who we run into at the Bazaar!! Duran, the rug man. He sees us, comes by to say hello and greets us warmly. He asks what we’re after. A leather gift. He takes us to the leather gift section and escorts Perry to the “right” store. Perry negotiates, and is now the proud owner of what he came to locate! Done. We wander around some more. It isn’t as crowded with people as it was on Saturday, according to both Lee & Perry. I get it, because we felt the same way based upon our experience at the spice Bazaar. Nice it isn’t so crowded. The shopkeepers are more laid back today as well. I guess they experience the Monday blahs as well! The space is somewhat confining even though it is so vast. The spaces are small, the aisles tight (the bazaar is laid out in a grid) – the north south aisles are wider than the east west aisles. There is so much cigarette smoke (they haven’t discovered “vaping” here as of yet) we are choking and in need of fresh air. Upon leaving the Bazaar we are greeted by a rush of fresh cooling air, and it feels SO GOOD! Time for a rest before we head out to dinner and finalize our packing for the exhausting trek home. We’re almost done. I’m so sad. I want to see so much more of Istanbul. We didn’t get to the Cistern, the line was too long, and our Museum Pass didn’t get us in. Rats! Next time.

The End

Istanbul to San Francisco, Turkey
Tuesday, October 6, 2015

The call to prayer was VERY early this morning, before the sun rose over the Bosphorus, before our alarm went off, before we knew what was happening. Bleary eyed, we readied ourselves and met the R's for breakfast…a little late. Breakfast completed, we agree to meet in the lobby in a few minutes, which gives us time to brush our teeth and put the final touches on packing. UGH!

We were given a lot of information by the scouting crew (meaning those who had already left Istanbul on Sunday) with regard to the Istanbul Airport, and traffic…etc. SO…we allowed for one hour to get to the airport (which was the time it took on Sunday). The hotel has a shuttle (40 Euro for the four of us – SUCH A DEAL) – so we all pile in the van and head off to the airport. I’ve already discussed Istanbul traffic and driving. No different on this day save for one minor detail…..absolutely NO traffic to the airport, all the traffic was coming into town. And…when I say traffic, I MEAN TRAFFIC. I saw an ambulance, sirens blaring absolutely STOPPED. I hope the person inside survived!

It took us 17 minutes to get to the airport.

I don’t know if you’ve been to TAV – Ataturk Airport, but if you have – you know the drill….which is: run the gauntlet at the front door to get in line to go through security – BEFORE YOU EVEN GO TO THE AIRLINE COUNTER! OK….I get it, we’re in a challenging part of the world at the moment, but what a hassle. Women in Burka were patted down, and had to remove their face covering (sorry, don’t know the formal name and choose NOT to know…not a fan of Burka) – They are not kidding.

We observed a car being towed….now really…in this day and age WHO parks then leaves their car at an airport??? Gotta admit, the tow truck was AWESOME. Basically, it slipped two steel arms under the car and lifted it onto a flatbed – VERY FAST. The poor fool is not going to be happy, but maybe they’ll learn a lesson.

OK…now through the first security line, we were told this would take a while. It took about four to five minutes! OK. We need to know where to go drop our luggage. No indication of where Lufthansa is located…AT ALL. SO…off to information. We have a bit of a wait….like 1 hour and 15 minutes!! The desk will open at G 1 at 10:30, and not a moment before. Well….OK….guess we wait.

We’ve met some other travelers from the US. We see some familiar faces from our ship, and we’re all on the same plane from TAV to Munich, Germany. We are the first ones in line for Business Class and are done in a matter of minutes. Now we have to go through Passport Control. We have Fast Track. Our line has absolutely NO ONE in it! We are through the passport control in a matter of seconds. I’M NOT KIDDING! The guy doesn’t even look at my visa. He stamps the passport, and we go through another security scan and we’re DONE! Now time to find the Lounge. Of course, the lounge is at the exact opposite end of the airport. We schlep ourselves, with our carry-on bags and get ourselves to the lounge and SIT! Hydrated. Pastried. Coffeed…we’re ready. Let’s get this show on the road (Oh, how I shall regret that statement).

Our flight is called and we make our way to the gate…all the way at the other end of the airport, and about halfway back into town. Since we’re in Business Class…we get to board first. It’s a smaller plane, and still six across….SO business class?? It means the center seat remains vacant. Works for me. Bring on the wine and let’s get this tin can in the air. We’re in for a LONG day!!

OK….the plane backs out of the gate, and it starts bouncing. I mean BOUNCING! Bad shocks? Bad runway? We shall see when we land. OY…. 2 � hours later we land in Munich. Not the shocks, must be a potholed runway in Istanbul….and I thought SF streets were bad!!! UGH…we have a bus ride to another gate and less than an hour to make our flight. Some passengers had 20 minutes to get their flight. Finally in the terminal yet another security line. SERIOUSLY? AND….only two stations open with over 200 people needing to catch a connecting flight with a REALLY tight timeline. The "wise" airport officials open 2 more lines – after a near riot breaks out (well…in my mind it was a near riot) actually it was just a few people chatting among themselves. They probably realized there were some tight connections to be made. Done. Through security.

I RUN to the passport guy, who probably thinks I’m some fool. I hand him my passport and what I think is my connection ticket to SFO. Nope, it was my Visa for Turkey! GEESH! He asks if I’m an American. Yes. Why are you in this line? HUH??? Are you going home? Yes. Well, you need to make your flight go to Terminal H, this is terminal G. ARE YOU KIDDING ME????? I yell back to Christopher, Lee & Perry to turn right and RUN. I’m off, because I have NO idea where or how far this gate is from where we are now. Turns out…not all that far.

At the elevator I see one of the guys trying to make his connection to Chicago. I hold the elevator for him. He thanks me, the elevator arrives and he BOLTS from it I wish him good luck. I realize we have time and calm a little….but I NEED a WC…and I need it NOW. Of course, there aren’t any at this point on my trek. UGH. Through their version of passport control and I see a WC. YES!!! As I make my way through the passport line, I ask where the tax free customs office is located…oh sir….behind you. DAMN. I have bigger problems at the moment….

We are all at the WC answering our respective calls. Christopher says the Tax office is at Gate H30, we’re at H2. UGH. I tell him I’ll go, I have to hurry since we’re boarding the plane in 15 minutes. I TAKE OFF. I’m at full speed rather quickly dodging people left and right thinking to myself…GET OUTTA MY WAY…. I get to gate H18…..the door is locked, I’m TRAPPED! Sealed in. No way out. A Lufthansa gate agent sees me (she also probably saw me running towards her) – she stops me. I tell her of my plight between huffing and puffing….tax refund…..where…. Gate 30H, to the right, but your flight is going to be boarding soon. TOUGH, I have to get the refund…it’s a sum of money!! She unlocks the door for me and I’m off again…full speed. I get to the customs agent. He couldn’t care less that I have a flight to catch. He takes his sweet time…asks a bunch of questions and stamps only 1 of the refunds. At least it was the largest sum. This better work, because I’m tired, soaking wet and I have a plane to catch. I have to post the envelope. Off to gate H28…I drop it in the slot and hope for the best.

I turn and run back the 28 gates through passport control (again) and make it to H2. No one has moved. Turns out, they were still refueling the plane. I made it!!

We all board the A340 Lufthansa flight to SFO we take our seats, and settle in for the 11 hour flight. The flight attendant comes around with some Champagne, and I’m happy. Still cooling off, still a little sweaty, but I’m sipping champagne and I’m in a comfortable seat and we’re on our way home.

I can’t sleep on planes. PERIOD! Love to fly, just can’t sleep. I sip. I read. I eat. I TRY to sleep. Nothing! 11 hours later we’re home and it hits me – this was an amazing, wonderful trip, but now it’s over and I have some wonderful memories which will last a lifetime.

Sea of Antiquity

Sea of Antiquity

and...Away we go.....

Vasari Corridor - another Bucket List item down!

Chianti Classico!!

Mia famiglia a Firenze

Shop 'till we drop

Arrivederci Firenze!!

Beautiful Capri!

Napoli

Not to be confused with Caligari

More than just an island.....

Is it Arabic, Italian or Maltese; I have no clue?

On the Deep blue sea...on our way to Crete

Greece....who knew there was such a market for fur?

Blown Away!!!

Ephesus. Check. Bucket List, CHECK!

We shall return!!

15-million people....

"um...you like Kurdish men?"

It's good to be Sultan

The End

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