Italy 14 - Venice - Impressionist Paintings/Naval museums/Secret Itineries

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Early morning in Venice and the buildings softened looking dappled in the early morning haze where the sun hadnt risen enough to burn off the fog. They looked like an Impressionist painting in the distance. Rosy, strawberry and dusky pink. Today was our visit to the Doges Palace - not the usual tourist trap of the main buildings but discover secret Venice. We turned up to meet the housekeeper - a cross between the housekeeper of Downton Abbey and a Victorian school mam. Her bunch of keys hanging from a belt on her waist. Few know of the Secret Intinerary most of the tourists walked up the main stairway into the state appartments whereas we stopped half way up whilst the housekeeper chose a key from the belt and inserted it into the lock of a plain dark wood door built into the staircase. What secrets laid behind it - she counted us in and told us to touch nothing heightening the sense of wonder. What indeed laid behind the door - not the gilded staircases, none of the fine pictures or furniture but a world of the inner running of the state of Venice. The rooms outside were all show whilst behind the scene was more functional, in fact the business part of the city. Tiny wood panelled rooms with small windows overlooking the courtyard. Wooden desks scratched by the countless clerks inscribing state documents. Filing cabinets full of those state documents. We filed through room after room dark and gloomy, the 18th Century hall of the Chancellery, the torture chambers and the prisoners cells. Felons had to be dealt with - even Casanova - and here is where they were incarcerated. Our final climb was up in the roof which was all lead and wood, stifling hot in summer and bitterly cold in the depths of winter. Eventually we were led down and let back out into the main building to look at the pomp that visitors would have seen for many years. If you get chance to go make sure you go on the Secret Itinerary - this way you see a side of Venice that very few people even know exists. Another little gem hardly noticed is the Naval Museum located the opposite end from the Doges Palace and near to the Arsenale. Most people walk by with out noticeing the building located in a disused granary. Look out for the anchors outside which mark the doorway. It documents every facet of Venices naval power. The museum spreads over a number of floors with areas designated to show models of boats built in the nearby Arsenal, full scale drawings and complete gondolas including the one owned by Peggy Guggenheim. Chinese and Korean junks complete the picture. Dont pass it by next time you walk past. Stop and have a look inside . It's not a museum for the purist nor one specialised just another interesting one that shows another facet of the wonderful city of Venice . .

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