Shakedowns, paper dresses and more art espionage


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August 11th 2008
Published: August 11th 2008
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Like you didn't already look like a touristLike you didn't already look like a touristLike you didn't already look like a tourist

Tourists proudly wear their Chinese manufactured crap- in this case, a fake gondolier hat.
Il fine settimana
(Sabato e domenica) Saturday and Sunday, August 9th and 10th

After the long day in Padua, I was ready for a rest this weekend. After a little sleeping in on Saturday, I made a short trip to the supermarket and had a quick chat with some German tourists over lunch. We were sitting next to each other in an outside café when a group of African vendors, spying trouble around San Vidal church where they were camped out, grabbed their goods and ran like on fire. They were screaming in their native language, and they were in such a mad hurry, one of the men left behind three handbags. About ten seconds later, three plainsclothes Italian policemen (and one policewoman) came tearing around the corner, dashing after the Africans. The German couple and I exchanged an inquisitive look and a guilty giggle over the dramatic, but terribly funny incident.

I had seen this once before, I told them. A few nights earlier, having a drink and doing some late night writing, I had seen the similar thing. That night, however, when the cops came back, they were empty-handed. No suspects. No illegal goods. Che peccato! (What
Paper dressesPaper dressesPaper dresses

One of Isabelle de Borchgrave's paper dress creations...
a shame!) The waiter, who was also watching the action, laughed and explained to me that all the cops can do is confiscate the goods, and they can’t even arrest the other African men who serve as look-outs for the cop. I shook my head in disbelief - that wouldn’t have happened in the States, I laughed. One mention of the “Patriot Act” and the whole piazza would be in interrogation. ☺

The rest of the day, I decided to veg out- I watched some Euro MTV (which plays videos!) and read the rest of my latest book. It was fantastic.

Sunday, I had planned to hang out with Julie, but we missed each other. Instead, I headed to Museo Fortuny, a museum dedicated to the big name fashion designer (M. Fortuny) and textile designer from the early 20th century. In addition to the normal collection, the museum was hosting a show from Isabelle de Borchgrave, a contemporary artist who constructs elaborately beautiful items out of paper and then decorates them with paint. For the exhibition, she has created several full size replicas of Fortuny designs made entirely out of paper- it was unbelievable. Again, no pictures allowed, but I am a tricky tart- the 007 of art espionage. Suck canal water, you Fascist bastards. (Even if the pics are a little blurry…)

After refueling with some bruschetta and caffeine, I headed to San Marco’s to visit the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale). The “White House” of Venice, this elaborate housing complex is adjoined to San Marco’s Basilica, symbolizing the marriage of church and state. The apartments are divided between the personal living quarters of the doge and the official meeting hall for the Venetian governing bodies. As to be expected, the ceilings are stocked with propaganda images and allegories of Venice as the most virtuous, just, bountiful, and of course, religious, city in all of Christendom. Ok, point taken.

Anyway, it was a relaxing weekend- and it’s finally cooled off in Venice. Thank goodness for the rain!









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More IsabelleMore Isabelle
More Isabelle

These dresses were unbelievable- definitely the highlight of the weekend.
Scala dei GigantiScala dei Giganti
Scala dei Giganti

Mars and Nepture on the entrance of the steps of the Doge's Palace, demonstrating Venice's prowess in war and at sea.
Secrets of the State!Secrets of the State!
Secrets of the State!

In the mouth of this demon, one would anonymously accuse other Venetians of treason and other such crimes, setting the judicial wheels in motion.
Staircase of GoldStaircase of Gold
Staircase of Gold

Always a good way to impress foreign dignitaries.
EclipseEclipse
Eclipse

A cruise ship eclipses the noble San Giorgio Maggiore. (I guess we know we the major one is now!) Sheesh.
Venice can be exhaustingVenice can be exhausting
Venice can be exhausting

A tourist catches a catnap.


11th August 2008

Your photos are AWESOME!!!! I love the hats! Love you - miss you - envy you! Mom
11th August 2008

Hmmmm...
You are a tricky tart, indeed.;) And I am proud of you for enjoying some contemporary art. That's a rarity.;)

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