The secret of the stench of Venice

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Thursday, August 7th
I managed to wake up before noon today! and set out for Giudecca to see two of the women's institutions (i.e. convents) about which I am writing in my dissertation. The Convertite (the Converted), which was originally created to house "fallen women"- i.e. ex-prostitutes and concubines who left their sinful lives and instead devoted their lives to God. In a not-so-ironic twist, after all religious institutions were suppressed under Napoleon’s rule, the convent was “converted” into a women’s prison. As I approached the institute, a prison boat was arriving (which was simply a speedboat with fancy blue writing “Polizia Penitentiara”), and a female “penitent” (pun intended), was escorted inside. I heard the voices of people aside, which didn’t sound very threatening or scary, and instead echoed the sleepy and peaceful feeling of the island.

Giudecca was a nice reprieve from the mobs of tourists; almost every other store was closed, with signs in the windows notifying customers that they were closed for the month of August for vacation (Ferragosto). The island was so peaceful, despite its spitting distance from the “mainland”, and so I disengaged my iPod in favor of the local sounds: the murmuring purrs of boat engines throughout the lagoon, the slapping of waves against the concrete sea walls, and the locals gossiping on their cell phones or in small cafes.

It was also the first time I had been on a boat since I arrived almost two weeks ago- due primarily to the cost of the vaporetti for tourists. (If you’re a local, you just have to present proof of residence, and you are given an enormously discounted rate.) Being on the water minds you of the lure of Venice. although I have to admit that my good friend Dr. Neal was right- Venice does stink. The good doctor (a toxicologist, no less) attributes it to the water, but since I am of good land-locked, man-made lake stock (a Missouri girl born and bred), I’m used to murky green waters and the smell of dead fish. However, while crammed onto the waterbus like sardines (pun intended), it’s quite obvious what the smell is: overheated, underscrubbed, and undershaven French, German, and Spanish tourists. How very intolerable and presumptuous of me! Well, the proof is in the pudding, so to speak- they have no mosquito bites. I suppose the mosquitoes prefer the clean soap scent of juicy American flesh. Yummy. Maybe I should remind them that the Euro is quite strong right now- they can afford some soap.

I dodge out of class early- sorry!- in order to check out one more location for the dissertation. I’m having a drink with Cheryl, to discuss our plans to go to Padua the next day. I made reservations for the Scrovegni Chapel, which has to be done a minimum of 24 hours in advance, and you’re only allowed 15 minutes!!! to look at these gorgeous frescoes by Giotto. We have some more Prosecco and talk about art; particularly typical and slightly ironic when two artists piss and moan about the poor state of contemporary art, although we’re sad the Biennale (the huge contemporary art exhibition held every other year in Venice) is not until 2009. The bar is playing all Motown songs- it’s cool night in Venice when “Bernadette” by the Four Tops comes on. We dance a little to the Supremes and the Jackson Five. I have to say it was a good day.

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Photos

Poor kitty
Even the kitty was imprisoned.

Birdseed in aisle 3
Apparently this pigeon was shopping, too.

A nice view of San Marco's piazza
The building on the right is the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) and on the left is the campanile (bell tower). The view is a lot nicer from farther away! :)

A relaxed day
Even this calico was enjoying the cooler weather.

Comments

[Mom]

Wish I were there with you! Luv - Mom