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August 5th 2008
Published: August 6th 2008
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By the banks of the Grand CanalBy the banks of the Grand CanalBy the banks of the Grand Canal

I know I look better behind the camera, but just so you remember what I look like...
Monday (lunedi) I had a nice lunch with Julie, my fellow American, and we chatted about raggazzi (guys) and enjoyed some overpriced pizza because it was next to the Accademia and right on the banks of the Grand Canal. Afterwards, I went to classes, where I was relieved to find out that I was now in a group more, um, suited to my abilities. I had some homework to do (allora!) and I had a late stroll, where I saw Matteo, and chatted with him while he closed down the restaurant. He told me his favorite band was Nirvana, he was 28 ( I guessed correctly), and asked who my favorite Italian singer was. Um, how do you answer that? Thankfully, I had just written down the name of one- so I cleverly responded, "Domenico Modugno!" We both had a good laugh as we sang in unison, "Volare! Ooh-ohh-ooh. Cantare! Nel blu dipinto di blu!" Alas, it came the time that he had to go count the money, but his parting words..."Ci vediamo domani. Ciao bella!" (We'll see each other tomorrow- goodbye beautiful) Fantastico!

Tuesday(martedi), I ventured to San Marco to find the Ministero di Bene Culturali, the offices that
Whoever heard of such a thing?Whoever heard of such a thing?Whoever heard of such a thing?

I would never have guessed you would wash your clothes next to where you wash your dishes.
are in charge of all of the artwork in Venice. I came to see D. Noe, who would presumably show me a painting that I would be discussing in my dissertation. Since Dr. Noe was at lunch (pausa= a break), I was invited to stay in the air conditioned office (tempting!) or come back in a half and hour. Since I had strongly decided that I would buy something luxurious for myself (too bad I can't afford Chanel or Prada), I decided to go shopping, glad that the half and hour would keep me on a short leash. Alas, like the champ that I am, I rather quickly purchased some beautiful leather gloves (from the glove store you saw in the pics). Che bellissima! When I returned to the ufficio (office) Dr. Noe kindly suggested we met the next day at San Gregorio, where the painting was stored. I was excited at the adventure of seeing this painting in person.

Wednesday (mercoledi), I awoke a little later than planned, and rushed off to Dorsoduro, thankful that today was a little cooler. WARNING: SIDEBAR APPROACHING...I promised not to be angered by the tourists who move at a glacial pace in
Offical business only!Offical business only!Offical business only!

I find it interesting that the offices is dedicated to the Minister of Good Culture...I am still looking for the offices of the Bad Culture...:)
the small streets, take up the middle of the street, make an abrupt stop at whatever inane trinkets (probably made in China) catches their eye. The thing about Venice is that it is not like a sidewalk- but rather you should think of yourself as a car (as there are none on the islands): keep to the right, pass on the left, and NEVER stop abruptly or linger on the pontes- it's like stopping your car in the middle of a bridge because you like the sunset. Pull over your "car" to the far right if absolutely necessary. Oh, and would-be Venice travelers beware- if your child is young enough to necessitate a stroller- they are too young for Venice. Watching these children throw fits in cafes because they are sick of pizza (yeah, good luck!) or watching their parents lift their strollers over ponte after ponte is an annoying traffic jam, and no fun for anyone present.

But I digress...

Still Wednesday...I met Dr. Noe at San Gregorio in Dorsoduro (one of the sections in Venice) which was a little lighter on the tourist traffic, and next to the church of La Salute, a church built as
A delicacy, I presumeA delicacy, I presumeA delicacy, I presume

Olives wrapped in sardines..I think. What a treat.
a votive for sparing Venetians (two thirds of them!) from the plague in the sixteenth century. The steps offer a lovely rest from the constant flow of people, a fantastic view, and the church is filled with great art just under the mainstream altar. (I did remember to bring a light jacket to cover my tank top!) At San Gregorio, the church was closed, and now houses the overflow of paintings from the Accademia. Dr. Noe and (presumably) an art handler opened the building, and it was amazing to see racks of paintings piled high in the now-empty church. I spent some time jotting notes and taking photos of the work, since there are no color photographs of the work available. Dr. Noe wished me good luck on my dissertation, and after a quick lunch, I was off to the Guggenheim Collection.

Peggy Guggenheim...now that's a story.


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A bit overemphatic, me thinks.A bit overemphatic, me thinks.
A bit overemphatic, me thinks.

I guess since tourism is down a bit, they really have to hit it home. If this is what Venice is like when tourism is down, I'd hate to see it at its busiest!
Just Say No!Just Say No!
Just Say No!

Apparently in order to truly discourage the illegal hawking of badly assembled knockoff handbags- now the tourists are being fined! Merda!
I promise not to bring home anything illegalI promise not to bring home anything illegal
I promise not to bring home anything illegal

Think this will make it past customs?
Jeremy and TobyJeremy and Toby
Jeremy and Toby

The lovely Englishman and cute Toby who offered me tea and company.
My painting!My painting!
My painting!

The inside of S. Gregorio, which now houses one of the paintings I am writing about in my dissertation. Dr. Noe puts away one of the reliefs in storage- my painting is on his left in the middle with the round top. Being allowed back in Accademia storage = VERY cool.
A prayerA prayer
A prayer

In Santa Maria della Salute (which was a lovely Baroque church), I lit a votive for my health, in other words, my dissertation. :)
Guarding over our immodestyGuarding over our immodesty
Guarding over our immodesty

I'm not sure which saint this is, perhaps it is Saint Mantilo, the patron saint of "cover yourself up, woman!"


6th August 2008

Bella indeed!
You looked so great in the photo by the canal!! What a lovely dress! I'm glad to hear the temperature is now being more docile and waiters are flirty. Fantastico.;)
6th August 2008

Bella indeed
You looked so great in your pretty little dress by the canal!! I'm glad to hear the weather and the waiters are friendlier!:)
6th August 2008

So what's the scoop om Matteo?

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