Pasqua 2015 in Padua and Venice

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We arrived to Padua under cloudy skies and cool temperatures. We were able to find our way to Casa Battisti without any problem after about a 20 minute walk. As we were early arriving, we weren't sure we could get in but thankfully the cleaning lady buzzed us up and we got our room right away. Our place is very nice and there is a communal kitchen where we plan to cook dinner on both nights. We met with Suzy, the owner, and she is a wonderfully, warm lady from Syria. She was very bubbly and helpful, especially when we asked her to help us find the bus station we would be leaving from on April 6 that, according to the address and Google Earth, was outside of Padua in an industrial park!

We then headed to the grocery store to pick up food for our two dinners. Avoided the horse meat and opted for chicken and pasta. as well as some biscotti and Siena liquer for Easter dessert. Ran into two ladies from the deep southern states (accent was thick) who were marvelling over the chickens that are not raised with steroids.

Next we went exploring Padua. We wandered the streets where we came across a number of busy piazzas filled with vendors selling everything from scarves to underwear! Even though we are both probably in the market for new socks we resisted temptation and continued our walk to the other end of Padua, down to the Basilica of St. Anthony. This is the most important monument in the city of Padua and is one of the world's most important art treasures. The basilica was begun in 1232 with completion towards the end of that century. It was dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua where his tomb is enshrined. We joined the line of people who filed past the beautiful green marble slab that covers the tomb. We placed our hands on the marble and offered a prayer to this saint who was a steadfast defendant of the powerless and those unable to defend themselves. We then proceeded to the Chapel of the Relics where precious objects are kept, such as the tongue and jaw bone of St. Anthony. Below was a glass case displaying his habit and another with the original coffin in which he was buried. This basilica is huge, with chapels lining both sides. All across the front altar were rows of roses - pink, yellow, and white for Easter and above the altar hung the bronze crucifix made by Donatello.

We then walked through the square to Prato Della Valle, one of the largest squares in Europe. It is 90 000 sq metres with an island in the centre and a fountain, surrounded by a small canal which is bordered by two rings of statues, 78 in all. All around the outside of the ring were dozens upon dozens of vendor's tents selling clothing, purses (didn't buy one), undergarments, and the largest number of shoes I had ever seen. Further down there were flower and plant vendors. Hanging plants were being purchased and made me think about my neighbour Bill who, in spite of his protests, is surely planning his gardens as we speak! There were all kinds of fresh produce stands and spices.

We then went across to the Basilica and Abbey of Saint Giustina which houses the remains of the saint as well as those of several martyrs. In 1117 a massive earthquake caused a great deal of damage to the basilica. While work was being done to repair the basilica in 1174 the remains of St. Giustina and Luke the Evangelist were found.

Once back at our place we cooked dinner. Suzy popped in with some bus info for us and a nice Easter treat! Such a thoughtful gesture. She then told us we should go to Sant Antoni for the Church Service. We quickly did up our dishes and headed down to the church.

What a wonderful experience it was as we sat in this massive basilica, alit with lights. We chose our seats and watched as people made their way in, many of them holding small candles. Looking around, I saw that they were being given out at the back so I jumped up and got two. Suddenly a priest appeared and made an announcement. Tons of people then got up out of their seats and proceeded out the door. Not sure what was happening, Curtis got up to check it out. Upon his return he said they were all standing outside in a large group. Soon the lights in the church dimmed and the hum of the crowd ceased. The doors at the back opened and the priest began to sing. At least 30 priests proceeded down the aisle following a large candle. Incense was burning (a far sweeter smell than at our church) and all the people who had been outside filed behind them, candles burning. They then passed their light onto the congregation and soon ours were lit too. This had something to do with St. Anthony as far as I could figure out. We then sat for the next two hours as the mass continued. Some things I could pick out from church at home as they sounded familiar. After the gospel and before the homily we left as we knew that the 3 kids were going to face time us from Curtis' mom and dad's place where they gathered for dinner. I was disappointed to leave as it was a truly moving experience to be seated in such a beautiful setting at such a blessed time of year.

The next day we got up for breakfast at 8 in the communal room and then set out for the train station as we intended to spend Easter Sunday in Venice. The train ride was only 30 minutes and as we left the Venezia station we entered into the incredible city of Venice. Having been there for Easter 7 years ago, I was thrilled to be back to this incredible place and to be able to see Curtis' reaction to it was exciting.

We wandered across the bridge over the canal and then through the tiny, narrow, winding streets, over bridges while gondolas rowed below. We followed the well marked route to the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square. We stopped in at a few churches which were far different then the ones we have been in already. All the columns and walls were covered with red flocked material. Quite bright to say the least.

After a while walking, we came to the extremely crowded Rialto over the Grand Canal. People were jammed in and you felt like you were swimming upstream. We nudged our way to the railing for a photo op and gazed down the building lined canal, full of boats. We then made our way past shops filled with masks and beautiful Venetian glassware until we came to St. Mark's Square. Now, in Padua, everything was closed for Easter Sunday but Venice was incredibly busy and lively! There were people everywhere in the square while hundreds lined up to visit the Doge's Palace. We walked around, dodging pigions. We admired the beautiful church and then walked down to the water where we fought through the crowds over the bridges until we came to the Bridge of Sighs. The view from the Bridge of Sighs was the last view of Venice that convicts saw before going to prison. As we continued on I had a mission. I was determined to use my impeccable orientation skills (note sarcasm) to try to find the place we stayed 7 years ago. The further we moved along, the more the crowds thinned out. We then reached a familiar place, Via Garibaldi. We walked down this street from my memory until we reached another landmark, an old boat laded with boxes that sold fruits and vegetables. I knew I had to cross one bridge and find another quiet square. We walked for a bit and finally came upon the square Curtis stopped for a bathroom break, which means you must buy espresso in order to use the washroom and I ventured out on my own. A couple of streets later and I proudly found the apartment! I knew it was the right one as I walked out to the water and saw the rooftop garden across the canal (not bad for someone with no sense of direction and who usually can't recall what she ate the day before!!). This was the same place we saw people standing in their rubber boots on Easter night 7 years ago while sirens warned of the canal water rising. Awakened by the noise, we looked out of our window with confusion and trepidation. Thankfully it had gone down by morning!

We then stopped on Via Garibaldi for a wonderful pizza! Heading back we wandered through the square again and then followed different streets that lead us back to the train station. A bit early we decided to stop for a drink at an outdoor cafe. As Curtis went in to order in began motioning for me to come in. Then he came out, a bit flustered by the fact that it was going to cost us 7 euros just to sit outside, before ordering!!! He was all ready to leave when the waiter appeared with our beer so we opted to go inside and stand where it was free to do so!!!!

We then caught our train and returned to the apartment for a rest before cooking our Easter Dinner. No one else was around so it was very quiet. I found myself quite tearful being away from family at such a special time. My husband was very patient with my sadness and homesickness. We had a wonderful dinner together. Later we went out for a walk back to the Prato Dell Valle so we could see it lit up at night, with the fountain glowing in the centre, and without the gazillion vendor's tents around the periphery. As we stood under the moonlit sky filled with stars, we thought of everyone at home who would later look up at the same night sky and we quietly wished everyone, "Buona Pasqua".

Off to Ljubliana, Slovenia tomorrow! Country number four and I'm sure another great adventure!

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