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Published: June 26th 2017
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Geo: 43.1281, 12.0463
After an unremarkable and uneventful flight we arrived at Fiumincino airport on a foggy morning.Quickly through Customs etc we collected our car, a tiny Fiat 500 which meant most luggage is on the back seat. We followed some back roads, me with the map on my lap and Fletcher as usual making all sorts of noises and comments as he got used to the car and my navigation was not always perfect! (If only it was as easy as for Dora and her map!!)
We headed north along the coast to avoid Rome and drove through Civitavecchia to which we will return on Thursday. Our aim was to find a base in Tuscany for a couple of nights to explore the surrounding countryside and ultimately to visit San Marino (to rack up a another country). Once out of the port we struck into the countryside, sticking with the smaller roads which are slower but more scenic. It was a beautiful day, around the low 20s and bright blue sky. By 12-30 we decided lunch was needed and stopped at the typical, top of the hill walled city of Montfiascone. We drove up and around to a scenic look out and
car park near the pedestrian entrance. There was a fabulous view over Lago de Bosenza and the green fields dotted with the terra cotta roofs.
Fletcher was desperate for the loo so while I took photos he headed off seeking relief. When he returned he had also found a place for lunch. This proved to be a fantastic choice. Le Farmacia di Santi Ristorante welcomed us, our host with very limited English and our non existent Italian. He gave us a hand written menu(scibbled on graph paper) and happily described our choices. The ambience was inviting, white linen tablecloths and sparkling glassware in an open and tasteful old stone room.Fletcher's Prosciutto and Melon was a winner, rich ripe melon and fresh off the bone prosciutto with bread made "in casa". My Bruschetta and pate was also great. For mains we both had the Spaghetti Amatriciana which was delicious. Hand made pasta in a beautiful spicy sauce, just enough to be very yummy. The local white wine went down a treat. and the cost?...We were a little concerned as we had seen no prices but the whole meal cost 47 Euros!!
We then walked to the Cathedral of Santa Margherita which is
the centrepiece of the town. A 16th Century church which had been refurbished in the late 1800s was magnificent, Very rich in colours and decoration but beautiful. What a hidden gem of a town!
We drove on from there through undulating countryside, passing the town of Orvieto, perched on its hilltop, a fantastic sight. We eventually made our goal, (after some twists, turns and backtracking, signage is confusing here) the town of Castiglione del Lago. This is another walled hill top town overlooking the very tranquil and beautiful Lago Trasimeno. After finding a room for the next rwo nights we wandered down to the lakeside. In the fading twilight the lake was still and beautiful. We sat, enjoying a glass of wine at a little bar watching the fish break the surface and hearing only an occasional plop and bird song. I thought of Catullus' poem about Stirmio and his own love of Lake Garda and could certainly emphathise. We had dinner in the town which was OK but did not match our lunch and struggled to stay up to 10pm.A great start to a long anticipated holiday.
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