An Interesting Drive From Modica to Agrigento

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Today we say goodbye to our host and her son, Stefano. Our final chat was a mix of our English and their Italian but once you get past that barrier we were able to understand each other. It has been a delight coming back to the house each night after battling inner city traffic in these historic Sicilian cities. After yesterday’s late rain it is once again gloriously fine and likely to get hot.

We tell Jane we want to visit Scicli before we travel north to Agrigento. She seems to cope best with short trips. It is less confusing. As we head downhill we realize we must have been quite high above the sea. Rounding a corner there beneath us is this incredible town, Scicli. It is Saturday and many streets are closed off because of a large market in the town centre. We find a tight little car park and take the opportunity of having a walk-about. Like many other markets we have seen, the “traveling caravans” are in town. Many years ago they may have been camels today they are transit vans. One was a large truck set up in such a way the whole side opened up to reveal every kind of kitchen appliance and utensil you could want. Further on workmen were preparing for an outdoor performance of some sort involving the set of a castle. Mass was being said in the nearby church, school children were having a morning treat of gelato and cell phone use, elderly men were sitting around discussing football or politics. We cannot linger, we must move on.

We tell Jane to take us to Marina di Ragusa. It appears the inland cities have a marina on the coast. Not sure if the population of Ragusa moves to the coast for the summer or whether they gain great revenue from tourists renting beachside apartments. We decide on an in-car lunch before a promenade. About fifty people are testing their summer beach wear in sheltered spots out of a breeze. Those setting up the boardwalks on the sand are having a siesta. The summer holidays are a month away. The large yachts and cruisers are looking ready for their owners to arrive. By the time the tourists get here the beautiful oleander and bougainvillea will have gone past their best. Perhaps the frangipani will be in full bloom.

We still have a way to go to Agrigento so no time to test the waters. Our GPS is set for time and distance. This means the odd short cut. At one point we wonder if we are allowed to take our nice car through such rugged terrain. Worse is to come. Getting close to Agrigento we are stopped and told to take a detour somewhere over there. We play follow the leader. The poor little Fiat in front of us disappears into a fish pond sized pot hole. We wait patiently for it to emerge out the other side. Then it is our turn. We do not look at the lease agreement just in case we have to abandon the trip at this point. As we end the detour two Carabinieri are standing guard. We wonder if Melania and the other G7 spouses are having a beach party nearby and don’t want to be disturbed.

As we approach Agrigento the impressive Greek temples appear on a ridge before us, the reason we are coming to this city. We make contact with Vittorio, our host for the next two nights. Communication is difficult but with the familiar “Ok” we continue to our destination. The city is high on the hill and our apartment is in the middle of it. We find the apartment with relative ease and there is plenty of parking on a ledge called a slip road. Vittorio’s brother arrives soon after and we get the guided tour. The very nice interior is far nicer than the exterior. The bed feels comfortable and we have plenty of room. The water supply seems to work on a pump system. We have a funny feeling about this...

We seem to be surrounded by churches and at 7 o’clock the competition starts as to who has the loudest and most intricate tune. We end the day with a nice meal in a nearby restaurant. Antipasti starts with a plate of local mussels, about 36, for one and a shrimp cocktail for the other. When did we last have a shrimp cocktail? The pasta dishes arrive. No primi or dessert tonight. We waddle back to the apartment dodging the messages left by the numerous dogs of the area. Fortunately we took our trusty torch with us.

The bed is so comfortable we are asleep in minutes. And the water system – we’ll wait until the morning.

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Photos

Scicili
Traveling home ware shop.

Scicili
Market day, a very static retail assistant.

Scicili
Street scene with old church overlooking the town.

Scicili
Tourists have hit town.

Marina di Ragusa
Not so crowded today, wait a month.

Marina di Ragusa
One of the beach side apartments with a great floral display.

En route
An example of the road conditions along the detour.

Approaching Agrigento
Templi di Concordia overlooks the countryside.