Chapter 3: Leave the Pope for another day!

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Chapter 3

Leave the Pope for another day

The plan had been to get up early and go to the Vatican to see if the Pope was in, however they had rather underestimated the effect of the day before and did not rise until 11.15am so the Pope shall have to be patient and wait another day. (Rumour had it, that he’d been feeling a little under the weather anyhow). So what was the revised plan then? Having missed breakfast they headed for the Piazza del Popolo on the underground. The system seemed a little run down and overcrowded, much like the tube really, though unlike the tube, air-conditioning was provided. Piazza del Popolo, 4 stops on Line A (there’s only two lines, and oddly enough the other one is called Line B).

Tourist site 4: Piazza del Popolo

History: Since the Middle Ages, this was the main entrance to the city from the north, encouraging a gathering of foreigners to the square. The place was turned into a square by Pope Sixtus V, who erected a 24m high Egyptian obelisk in the middle, making it the junction for Via del Corso, Via di Ripetta and Via del Babuino. Under Pope Pius VII, two semi-circles, a slope to the Pincio terrace and symmetrical constructions on the cornersof the square were created. Several fountains were put in place, the middle one having been placed in 1818 by G.Valadier. Piazza del Popolo for centuries wa also a place for executions, the last one taking place in 1826.

Martin’s comments: A beautiful square, far superior to Navona, a fabulous oval shaped piazza, mirrored by two identical churches and an obelisk in its centre, overlooked by Pincio gardens which provide a fabulous city view with St.Peters right in the middle.

A staircase leads from the piazza up to the Pincio gardens, which look far more daunting than they actually are. The gardens are simply stunning, full of mature woodlands, a tranquil lake (boats could be hired but a little too small for boats), even Keats, Ghandi and Mussolini had been known to stroll up there. These shaded gardens join onto Villa Borghese, another vast area of parkland owned by the state since 1901.

Rome’s most popular park, divided by avenues of trees, hedged walls, flower beds and gravel paths. It also holds a zoo, the Bioparco.

The small zoo ( 8,50 euro per adult) provided some much needed tranquility; parrots, monkeys, mouflon, birds of prey, tigers, crocodiles, hippos, a whole Noah’s Ark. The female lion seemed to have a bee in her bonnet as she began to roar at the top of her voice, encouraging the male lion to join her in the chorus as it echoed through the zoo and park. The baboon enclosure had several generations within, including some incredibly cute baby ones who could hardly get up to the level where the others dwelled. The hierarchy was obvious and there was no disputing that the alpha male’s arse was definitely the reddest of the bunch. The bioparco and its surrounding parks really does give one a gentle relief from the Roman traffic and if you have time to chill out, then this is definitely the place to do it in.
Having refreshed, they headed towards the Piazza di Spagna where they would find the famous Spanish steps.

Tourist site 5: Piazza di Spagna

History: This hugely popular piazza has been the destination for many a pilgrim to Rome. Hardly a square as it is such a strange shape formed by two sharp triangles. The Spanish Steps (Scalinata della tinita’ dei Monti) are a majestic series of three flight of steps that lead up to the impressive double bell-towered church. In early summer they are sometimes covered in flowers whilst caricaturists ply their trade sketching all the tourists. The fountain at the bottom of the steps (La Fonatana della Barcaccia) is set very low in order to function with the low water pressure that arrives here. The fountain is shaped as a small boat, an idea Pitro Bernini used after Rome had been flooded and when the waters subsided a small rowing boat had been left in the mud. In the southern part of the piazza, there is a column erected in 1856 to commemorate the Catholic dogma of the Immaculate Conception as proclaimed by Pius IX. (The Pope comes here every year on December 8th to celebrate the Immaculate Conception)

Martin’s comments: The steps again provide a great vista of the city, and though many foreigners gather here, they basically are a set of steps with a lot of hype. (Though this may have had something to do with the fact that is was February)

A little walk further and our intrepid two reached the world famous Trevi fountain. Rome seemed to be a never-ending tour of treasures, one after the other they spring out and make you enjoy the city furthermore.

Tourist site 6: The Trevi Fountain

History: Probably the most beautifull fountain in Rome, the Trevi fountain takes water from the Salone springs (about 20km away). In 1732, Pope Clement XII commissioned Nicola Salvi to create a large fountain at Trevi Square, with its completion in 1762. The central figure in the fountain is Neptune, god of the sea. He is riding a chariot in the shape of a shell, pulled by two sea horses. One is calm and the other is restive. They symbolises the fluctuating moods of the sea. The water at the bottom represents the sea and legend has it that if you throw a coin in the water over your shoulder you will return to Rome.

Martin’s comments: This impressive 18th Century fountain faces the public every day waiting for the first coins to ensure a return to Rome, a second coin suggests you will fall in love with an Italian, a third coin and you’re hitched.

Just one coin then as they both felt that one day they would return. Feeling rather peckish, they headed back towards the Piazza Novana and found a quaint little restaurant where more pizza was devoured. The walls were adorned with paintings, including Barcelona’s white gorilla Snowflake. The artists was in the restaurant, gradually getting slaughtered, tormented as he chain smoked and spent most of the evening talking to himself.

Heading back, Maya was about to burst her banks, so a wine bar accommodated her inundation as well as topping her up with a double brandy. On the walls were framed vinyl records of Queen, Pink Floyd, Bob Dylan and Genesis, obviously the owner had some great taste. The rest of the way was walked off as bed beckoned, completing a far gentler day all round. Day 3 Highlight: Villa Borghese Park

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