Chapter 4: At the Popes Joint

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Chapter 4:

At the Pope’s Joint

Up for breakfast, once more a delight and straight to Piazza san Pietro by bus No.40, a fairly pleasant way to travel. Within 15 minutes they arrived at the famous St.Peter’s square and once more Rome didn’t let them down. A vast piazza opens up with columned arches drawing the people in and at the far end of the square, St.Peter’s Basilica where the Pope greets the crowds.(It was his day off today, though didn’t prevent a huge mass of people from gathering). St.Peter’s Basilica built on the tomb of St.Peter by Constantine and decorated by Michael Angelo and Bernini holds 60,00 people.

Tourist site 7: St. Peter’s Basilica

History: The Basilica di San Pietro in Vaticano is the most prominent building in the Vatican and provides a focal point in Rome’s landscape. Possibly the largest church in Christianity and therefore the holiest site in Christendom, traditionally the burial site of Saint Peterbut now thr traditional burial grounds for Popes. Construction began on April 18th 1506 and was completed in 1626. It is the Pope’s prinicipal church and home of most papal ceremonie. St.Peter’s square built by Gian Lorenzo Bernini between 1656 and 1667 is a classic example of baroque architecture. In the center of the colonnade is a 25.5m tall obelisk, moved to its’ present location by Pope Sixtus V. The obelisk dates back to the 13th centuryBC in Egypt, and was moved to Rome in the 1st century to stand in Nero’s circus some 250m away. The dome or cupola was designed by Michelangelo, who became chief architect in 1546. Made of brick, the dome is 42.3 metres in diameter rising to 120m above the floor.

Martin’s comments: St.Peter’s has to be one of the most awe-inspiring buildings in the world, it’s interior and cavernous ceilings cannot but dazzle and dumbfound you. Anyone wishing to become a priest must see this as the pinnacle of one’s career. Whereas a train driver’s pinnacle may be to drive a Eurostar, a botanical gardener would love to work in Kew, if religion is your thing, then St.Peter’s is the holy grail. Only the Pope can perform mass here, and I suppose those are the perks of the job. When in Rome, come here!

The Vatican is the smallest country in the world, it has its’ own post office and stamps. Uncle Alan was sent his papal wishes and Helen’s sins deserved a rosary. The Vatican Museum and Sisteen Chapel are just around the corner but unfortunately at 12 euros each, our travellers were unwilling to lay out £17.00 to queue for hours just to look at a ceiling. Though Michelangelo’s frescoes and last Judgement took four years to paint, 24 euros was not worth the pain in the neck!

Tourist site 8: The Sistine Chapel

History: Michelangelo was commissioned by Pope Julius II della Rovere in 1508 to repaint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel frescoed earlier by Piero Matteo d'Amelia with a star-spangled sky. The work was completed between 1508 and 1512. He painted the Last Judgement over the altar, between 1535 and 1541, being commissioned by Pope Paul III Farnese. This monumental fresco covers the entire end wall of the chapel, which led the obliteration of the frescoes painted at the time of Sixtus IV: the first figures of the popes, the first two scenes of the life of Christ and life of Moses, the image of the Virgin of Assumption (by Perugino), together with the first two lunettes, representing the Ancestors of Christ frescoed earlier by Michelangelo himself. The two large windows set into the altar wall were closed up.

Martin’s comments: Would have love to have seen it but the entrance price for a budget traveller was just too extravagant. Even in February, the queues went right round the corner.

The Vatican is an experience and directly opposite is the Castel Sant’ Angelo. Hadrians’s mauseleum converted into a fortress, right by the river bank, and if you have time it is worth a visit. It being by the river, do be aware of groups milling around doing nothing. Our two followed the river right round to the south in order to reach Travestere. Described as the most charming part of town, our two found in its place a crumbling hovel, alleyways covered in dog muck, littered roads which to be honest suggested anything but charm. Furthermore, in broad daylight, many undesirables lurk around waiting for the tourist dollar. A simple restaurant where sea food pasta and idle chat with 2 American girls provided a positive.

Travestere comes alive at night, an area one wouldn’t recommend to anybody wandering alone. Further up the hill, Garribaldi’s memorial provides relief, and back down they went back to Piazza Novona for coffee and a very sweet ice cream. Rome does seem to be split by the river, not just in geographical terms, but in other ways too. One side is clean, full of interest and a joy to behold, the other side, apart from the Vatican is seedy, dirty and rather unpleasant. They caught the bus back and ate their final Roman meal at the same restaurant as the first night and headed to bed reflecting on the memories Rome had given them. Ciao Roma, next stop Pisa. Day 4 Highlight: St.Peter’s and the Vatican. Accommodation: Very Good 63 euros a night

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